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ATTN 3rd gen 4runners.. Bypassing wheel speed sensors

26K views 39 replies 10 participants last post by  Mossyrocks 
#1 · (Edited)
Bypassing ABS/ wheel speed sensors. Using tacoma output shaft speed sensor for speedometer


First Id like to say, this is at your own risk. And Im not sure of the outcome if wheel speed sensors are still in place.


You will need:
Output shaft speed sensor from a tacoma. J/Y or dealer ($220)
3 colors/ lengths of wire.
Butt splice connectors
Piggy back connectors.
If you dont have the tools, you shouldnt be doing this

Side Note:
If you go with a junkyard sensor as I did and youd like to check it. Connect the hot wire (as seen below) to the positive on the battery. Connect the ground wire (as seen below) to the negative on the battery. And with a volt meter attached to the signal wire, turn the plastic gear by hand. If you get pulsing voltage from the signal then its good to go.

At the output shaft on the pass side of the transfer case you will need to remove a plug. One 12mm bolt holds it in place.

Replace this plug with the tacoma output shaft speed sensor.



From the sensor harness there will be 3 wires. Black w/ red stripe (this is the hot wire. 12v) Solid blue (this is the negative) and Green w/ red stripe (the signal wire)



Extend the hot wire (bl-r) to a 12v source. I ran this straight to the battery with a 10a inline fuse.
UPDATE: Hot wire behind the dash is Black w/ a yellow stripe. Its on the brown connector.

Extend the negative (l) to a ground. I used the neg. on the battery.

Extend the singal wire (G-R) up behind the dash.

On the back of the speedometer there will be 3 connectors. Blue, White, and Brown. On the brown connector, second terminal is the input signal for the speedometer. This is the input from the ABS ECU. This wire is gray with a blue stripe. You will splice in the new singal wire with this wire using a piggy-back. I did not disconnect mine from the ABS ecu. It works without disconnecting so I figured Id leave it at that.



Then just put everything back together and your good to go.

If there is an easier way than please, let me know.
 
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#6 ·
Nope! It won't work for the new Taco's. The transfer case in the new Taco's do not have a tone ring or Halls effect ring in the rear of the transfer case. For the auto's anyway. They get there speed input from the rea axle's. Cuurie Enterprise's is coming out with an axle that will solve this problem for the new Taco's. I'll be testing it out at the end of the month.
 
#4 ·
maybe im just tired, but what is the purpose of this
 
#7 ·
Thanks for the post! You beat me to it, good! Please let us know if your speedo is accurate. I'd also planned on using something like the Dakota Digital or SuperLift units to recal the speedo.

I already have all my parts an I've spent the time looking at the wiring diagram for my FJC (A/T). This should work for me as well even though my FJC get speedo input from the wheel speed sensors. On the FJC's there are 2 pins #13 and #14 on the connector. One is for the ABS ECU input and one is for the tcase speed sensor input. Also the M/T version of the FJC's use a speed sensor in the trail housing of the transfer case and not the wheel speed sensors for the speedo input, so in theory this should work for them as well.

Wyatt - I'd be really surprised if this won't work for you as IIRC your tcase is the same a the FJC. I would think putting a M/T FJC speed sensor in your tcase would give you the necessary signal to drive your speedo. Although, with your tire size the accuracy of the speedo would be questionable.
 
#8 ·
Unfortunatly it's not the same as your case. Marlin and I looked at this vey closely. The late model Taco's use a two wire system for the speed pickup where the FJ's use a three wire at the Tcase. Not to mention the fact that there just isn't anything to pickup in the Tcase anyway. The later model Taco's '06 +, are even worse. They don't even have an area to plug anything in. It wasn't cast iin the case. Gotta go back to the axle's with these babies.
 
#16 ·
Wondered the same thing. Drove 100 miles today without a problem. No check engine light. And the speedo seems a lot more accurate now that its before the diff.


UPDATE: Hot wire behind the dash is Black w/ a yellow stripe. Its on the brown connector.
 
#17 ·
I did this for the simple fact that Im sick of this rear axle that I had my speed sensors running off of. And Im sick of wires being ripped off of it. Im going to a 60 or a 9" within the month and didnt want to lose my speedo.
 
#28 ·
For those that do not have the oem electrical connector that connects to the speed sensor you can make your own for less than $10. I bought the oem connector housing (part # 90980-11143) from my local dealer. The dealer only sells the housing and not the wire leads. I then cut off the connector housing from the ADD wiring that I had zip-tied to the frame and is no longer in use since the sas. I took the wire leads out of the ADD housing connector and put them into the speed sensor connector and it works perfect. Now I need to wire up the speed sensor to the speedo inputs.

Here are the necessary parts.



Start by popping the white plastic piece out of the ADD connector housing.



Then use a small screw driver to release the wire leads from the housing.



Here are the 3 leads and the new speed sensor connector.



Insert the wire leads into the new connector and this is what you end up with.



Test fit on the speed sensor.



Added some shrink tubing, then loomed it all, wrapped with some electrical tape and I'm read to wire up the speedo.

 
#30 ·
updates? does it work?
Yes it worked on my FJC. I had to get an adapter from Jim @ Inchworm that would let me run a chain driven tcase sensor in a gear driven tcase so the signal would be correct. More here on what I did.
 
#36 ·
okay guys, sorry but I am confused. On my 98 4Runner, I am getting ready to SAS it. I see the speed sensor that goes to the axle, so I am figuring I have to replace that or have no speedo. I am looking at my t-case however, and don't see the place to put that connector? Is it on the top? That is about the only area I have not looked at (need a new inspection mirror). I have the 98, AT, and V6, same as the origional poster. Thanks for the help.
 
#37 ·
its beside the driveshaft on the back of the x-fer case. Its just a metal plug with a bolt filling the hole. You take that out and put in the new sensor.
 
#39 ·
I finally got around to doing this mod. I searched for a long time at the pull n saves for a sensor with no luck. I finally decided to go to Napa and pick one up which ran $98 I then needed to buy the driven gear $25 and plug $11 from Toyota. I drove it for about 50 miles yesterday and it worked great and no more check engine light.:D
 
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