Best way to remove Auto Transmission pan - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Best way to remove Auto Transmission pan

I'm trying to get my pan off and am having a hell of a time. I know to use a rubber mallet and 'tap' it till it comes off, but damn! First off it's boxed in with the exhaust on one side, drive shaft on the other, cross member and power steering on 'top' and 'bottom'.

I've been hitting it at an angle and it's not budging. I know better than to break out a pry bar, but it's starting to seem tempting at this point. Another thought was to take a chunk of 1x4 and see if I can use that with the hammer but I think it would end up denting the pan.

Any tips?

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Nevermind.. the answer is hit it harder.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 06:19 PM
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Yeah, hit it with your purse!


I use a hammer and a "putty knife" scraper from snap-on. Tap that thing around the pan till it falls off. Be carfull of gouging the aluminum tranny though.

Just for others looking for help because you have yours off already. Also, it is hard to beat the sealing power of factory toyota red F.I.P.G. (form in place gasket). Cork gaskets will deform your pan and make it leak if it was not designed for them.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 09:03 PM
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I don't know if it applies to Toyota pans. But whenever I would take a pan off anything I'd take a ballpean hammer and tap out the holes. They get bent in slightly when the bolts are tightend. If you tighten them down again , without tapping them out, you bend them a little more. Maybe leaving a spot in between holes that doesn't have enough pressure on the gasket. Letting a little tranny fluid seep by. This is only for steel pans not aluminum. Don't go too crazy just a hair tapped out.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-20-2008, 10:00 PM
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Yeah, hit it with your purse!
That stuff has some holding power! Just cut enough off with a razor blade so that you pry it off. I used a screwdriver with a rubberized cover.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 03:26 AM
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Yeah that red stuff just didn't want to come off of the pan (to get it sparkling clean). I stopped by and he had just gotten the pan off and was headed for another beer. We got the mating surfface clean but the sides of the raised area had slivers of the red stuff left over. Reassembled with black RTV (that's what I would have used) would you toyo techs have done any diff. w/o that factory super ultra fancy gasket stuff?

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Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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yeah, thanks for the hand scraping gasket goop yesterday PoorBoy. For the record, Haynes manual that says you only need 2.1 quarts to refill is bull shit. I dumped 3 and still look to be about 2+ short.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, hit it with your purse!
yeah, I was just a little affraid of denting the pan. Seems I did put a little hump in it, but you have to look close to tell so it should be fine.

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I use a hammer and a "putty knife" scraper from snap-on. Tap that thing around the pan till it falls off. Be carfull of gouging the aluminum tranny though.
Thanks for the tip, I'll use this next time instead of the "beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet" method

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:28 AM
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I know this may be a stupid ? but did you check it with the engine running or off? not saying that you are stupid or anything. I've done it and put 6 quarts before i knew what i was doing.

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Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
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Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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I know this may be a stupid ? but did you check it with the engine running or off? not saying that you are stupid or anything. I've done it and put 6 quarts before i knew what i was doing.
Cold, then ran it a few miles around town and checked again. The dip stick has markings for both cold and hot, didn't come close to either one. But thanks for the stupid check.. I need it some times.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 02:10 PM
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yeah, thanks for the hand scraping gasket goop yesterday PoorBoy. For the record, Haynes manual that says you only need 2.1 quarts to refill is bull shit. I dumped 3 and still look to be about 2+ short.
I don't understand why they tell you that. Even if you don't take the pan off you should be able to drain most of it plus theres more in the guts of the tranny.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yup, took me 5 quarts total. I've read that a full flush is supposed to take around 15 quarts cause most of the fluid is in the tranny, and not the pan.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 04:21 PM
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Most of the fluid is in the torque converter.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 05:49 PM
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How does one do a full flush? Can you get the transmission going and leave the drain plug out or would that be a bad idea?
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 05:50 PM
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You need to hook it to a machine, otherwise you will run it dry. A flush is about the only way to really change all the fluid since it will get the huge amount that is in the torque converter.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 06:13 PM
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Unwanted advice from a left coaster...

Removing the pan... I've had poor luck pounding the pan off, course I'd hate to damage/destroy the pan. So I've carefully used a putty knife to separate the pan from the tranny.

Removing old sealant... gasket scraper/razor blade and brass brush, finished by cleaning with brake cleaner...

Resealing/reinstalling pan... used FIPG black and red, evenly tightened 10mm bolts Allow to cure overnight- hint I use a 'speed handle' to remove/tighten the bolts

Refilling with ATF... Having pulled the pan, removing the trans and torque converter, I get a bit more out than just draining the pan. Remove the valve body and even more fluid comes out. I start by adding 2-3 qts ATF, then starting the engine (I'm a bit leery and worried that I don't have enough fluid when I start refilling). Run the shifter through all gears and check fluid. continue adding fluid a qt at a time until the fluid registers on the dipstick, then a pint at a time. All while running the engine. After adding fluid, run the shifter through all the gears.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 07:20 PM
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I was told to never use any silicone or gasket sealer on a tranny pan. If it squeases out the sides it can make little rubber worms that work their way through your tranny till it finds a nice little hole in the valve body to plug. Then you're F'd.

Is IFS something you can get penicillin for???

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 07:53 PM
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I was told to never use any silicone or gasket sealer on a tranny pan. If it squeases out the sides it can make little rubber worms that work their way through your tranny till it finds a nice little hole in the valve body to plug. Then you're F'd.
CRAP! I used some silicone rtv. But one of the guys at toyota said said it was ok, so well see.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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You need to hook it to a machine, otherwise you will run it dry. A flush is about the only way to really change all the fluid since it will get the huge amount that is in the torque converter.
Actually there are other ways to do it without the machine, but there is some serious debate over how, when, etc. I'm sure that discussing abortion would be less heated.

Here's an article on yotatech I ran across when i was researching it a few weeks ago.

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/tranny-question-82301/

I have yet to decide if I want to 1) shell out the ~$200 for the 15+ quarts of ATF or 2) spend the time/energy. I'm 100% positive I'm not going to pay to have it done tho.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-21-2008, 09:55 PM
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I was told to never use any silicone or gasket sealer on a tranny pan. If it squeases out the sides it can make little rubber worms that work their way through your tranny till it finds a nice little hole in the valve body to plug. Then you're F'd.
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CRAP! I used some silicone rtv. But one of the guys at toyota said said it was ok, so well see.
I actually walked into the local dealer with a drain pan gasket looking to replace it. They came out with one that was the wrong size. Parts dude looked closer and then mentioned that no such thing existed... These gaskets must be an aftermarket item. I guess if one went overboard with the FIPG, one may have problems I got a small 'bleed' of the FIPG when I installed the pan. One important note, allow the FIPG to cure overnight - I let mine cure 24 hours, through the night with a 500watt shoplight 'cooking' it...
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 07:44 AM
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I like her she's cute. Any more pics of her?

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Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
Quote:
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Years from now, when we are dead and gone... the roaches will be driving little Toyotas with 3.4s.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Um.. huh?

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 09:22 AM
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Um.. huh?

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-29-2008, 11:44 AM
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use the toyota stuff.

The Toyota FIPG is far superior to any and all other sealants i've ever seen. As far as the little "worms" give the fipg about 5 minutes to semi-set prior to putting the pan up to the trans, you'll be just fine. besides, yotas have fine screens for the pump pick up. RTV likes to leak, especially if you refill the trans too early. And your fluid capacity should be around 4.5-5 qts. after dropping the pan. Keep in mind.... Cheaper crap is usually CHEAP CRAP>

I understand the Jeep thing, That's why I drive a Toyota!!! HA HA HA!!!
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