Why NOT to buy a reman CV - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Why NOT to buy a reman CV

Watch this guy remanufactuer a CV joint. Note the precision re-grinding of the races.

CV joint remanufacturing

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 10:00 AM
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What do you mean there's score marks on the spline? That couldn't have come from our shop, this is a hi-tech machine shop, you probably did that after you received it. You didn't put it in a vice did you?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 10:36 AM
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ive ran remaned cv. and never had a problem. hell mine have liftime warranty so boot rippes or makes noises. i just get a new one for free. 100 bucks for remaned with liftime warranty or 400 from toyota with no warranty. i would love to get one from toy.but the boots are going to rip if you have a lift, and im not paying 800 bucks every one to two years. i say buy the remaned cv
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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"Here's a ball path in terrible condition, it's been ground out before..." near 1:17.

And I just love how he hammers in the balls with a steel ball-peen hammer. (Hell, I guess they went by the name of the tool!)

On a serious note, I found out today that swapping your CV shafts from side-to-side after 50k miles will actually double their wear-life. Turns out the balls skid (not roll) along the paths on the thrust side. Swapping sides changes to a new wear path. Does not help prevent breakage, which is where we tend to lose ours.

But swapping sides is easy and free if you are pulling the front diff for any reason.

Can you tell I'm trying to learn about CVs this morning? I never had a vehicle with 'em before...

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 01:35 PM
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ive ran remaned cv. and never had a problem. hell mine have liftime warranty so boot rippes or makes noises. i just get a new one for free. 100 bucks for remaned with liftime warranty or 400 from toyota with no warranty. i would love to get one from toy.but the boots are going to rip if you have a lift, and im not paying 800 bucks every one to two years. i say buy the remaned cv
x2 - hell, I've been known to just replace them "just cuz" ...

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 04:06 PM
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CVJ has a good product. The boots they use tend to outlast the stock boots in higher lift applications.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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I got a new CV shaft from Parts Plus in Moab for $100. No lifetime free replacements, though.

I think it was Carquest in Moab wanted $120 for the shaft, but an extra $89 for the core charge. Since I wa sbuying a spare I had no core.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 02:53 PM
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Oh come awn, that video has got to be a joke...I just cannot believe that's how it's really done!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Oh come awn, that video has got to be a joke...I just cannot believe that's how it's really done!
Unfortunately I think it's for real!

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 07:03 PM
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Unfortunately I think it's for real!
it also looks like a machine shop/video quality from the late 80's-early 90's.

Id believe that whole 'swap side' gimmick, except for about 40% of the vehicles out there with CV's, dont have the same length/size/spline type (male/female) on both sides, so its not possible to do so.

I dunno, just seems fishy to me, as 98% of CV's fail due to ripped boots, or just flat out break (whether it be at the splines, the cv joint itself, or the shaft). Not because they're just flat out old, my old accord had 232k miles on it (when i got it), still driving on the original honda CV's (i know this because my parents bought the car new in 87, it was an 88) with no abnormal noises, vibrations or anything of that sort.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-24-2008, 09:22 PM
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CVJ has a good product. The boots they use tend to outlast the stock boots in higher lift applications.
X2. They do make a good quality cv product, I have no problem at all of using reman cv axles. As far as the video goes I know for a fact that it is how its done, if you have ever had the ball come out or had to take them apart for any reason you would understand why you might want to use a hammer to get them back in. I think it looks like he's really hitting them hard to get them in but don't really think he is. This is just my I've seen and done it personally
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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I don't doubt you have to use a hammer to get the balls in. I'd be using a hardened brass hammer, though.

It's the quality of the machining that gets me!

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