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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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toyota vs checker auto

i need new brake calipers and rotors. that being said, should i dish out the extra dough for toyota genuine parts, or would something from checker or napa do the trick? i really don't want to get cheap parts, so if its worth it ill go toyota, but if its not going to really matter that much, i wouldnt mind saving the money. any thoughts?

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 08:49 PM
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For your older vehicle, I can see no advantage to OEM parts. I would not however go with the base model from either Checker or NAPA and I would go with NAPA over Checker, but that is me.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 09:24 PM
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You sure you need new calipers?

I had a frozen one when I bought my truck, put on an Autozone lifetime warranty one and haven't had any issues with it.

You might be able to find rotors in a junkyard with plenty of meat on them ...

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 09:47 PM
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My

Id price used Toyota calipers for your truck from jimsgotparts, or yotayard before buying anything from checkers/autozone.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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i was gonna go used from yotayard, but i kinda liked the idea of getting all new fresh parts.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 10:19 PM
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If you don't go with used parts, I'd go with NAPA but not their low end shit.

Who's ready to steal from Peter to pay Paul?


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie011 View Post
If you don't go with used parts, I'd go with NAPA but not their low end shit.


What he said if you're not going to buy used OEM.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 11:32 PM
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This will be the unpopular opinion:

For engine stuff, bearings, brakes: ie stuff that makes things go and stop, I only put Toyota Genuine or equivalent (like Koyo or Timken Bearings).

Toyotas are reliable for a reason: good parts. Crappy parts seem to save money at first, but it'll bite you in the ass in the end.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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well tommorow ill see how much it'll cost to get what i need and compare it b/t toyota and napa.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 01:21 PM
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Dont qoute me on this, but i

THINK napa can get their hands on remanufactured/rebuilt OE calipers.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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i just got back from napa and they do deal with rebuilt calipers, so after the core charge return the calipers are really only $50 ish.

but because i have to replace my steering linkage and what not, im toying with the idea of not bothering with replacing all this crap and just go SAS right here right now.

after i get everything i need to take care of all this, im gonna be around $500 in the hole. i was planning to go SAS next year anyway, so i might as well do it now and not bother spending money on components im going to be tossing away in less that a year.

there's a 4x4 yard up here that has complete front axles for about $400, though jimsgotparts quoted his at around $300. im thinking about just picking up an axle and prepping it while i save up to get an SAS kit, then just slap it all together and try to get it done before the snowr starts to settle in.

but even if i don't make it i got my FWD Gti that can handle snow like a champ so im not too worried. of course, this means i will most likely not make it to moab (unless someone wants to haul me and my dirt bike down there), but its not like moab is going anywhere anyway.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 02:37 PM
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I have had great results with Napa replacements on my older trucks. You could also get a rebuild kit and go that route, but i dont think it is worth the time/money.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 07:07 AM
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If you SAS now you will want to use your IFS calipers and get the vented rotors. I just got the Trail gear stuff and im loving it all. A lot of grinding tho. If you get an axle look around, Craigslist has a few locked and geared ones so you might find what you need. Get the axle and start building it, Armor, Truss it, Rebuild it and or build it. If your going with a kit look in to what it has in it. My TG kit came with TONS of little stuff i didnt think it had.

My vote is SAS. I replaced my steering parts over and over and over and over and then when i had money saved to mod and do gears or a front locker i was replacing my steering parts again. This round the steering wont be an issue i hope. It cant be weaker then the stock Relay rods and tierods.

I vote sas but if your planning on cutting it all off soon then just throw the cheap stuff on and be kinda nice to it tel you axles done.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 10:35 AM
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Russ' experience is not typical. Running bias-ply 36's on a bracket lift with BJ spacers in unnecessarily hard on steering components. Add in the fact that he still had 4.10's and carburetor, and you begin to understand. It's a testament to his driving and maintenance skills that it lasted as long as it did!

$400 is kinda steep for an axle IMHO - really, you only need the housing and knuckles. If you're not gonna gear/lock while you're at it, you're wasting money. Buy a built thirdmember with the gears/locker you want from TG, Marlin, Randy's, etc. Put Longfields in it to start. Obviously, all the steering goes away for histeer.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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this axle has the gearing i need, and hopefully he did a good job on the rebuild.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/877489216.html

if he still has it, im pretty sure im gonna take it. that way all i'll need to get after that is a front drive shaft and the SAS kit.

i looked at the Trail Gear kit, and it looks like it does have tons of parts to rebuild the axle. but if this axle was rebuilt properly, then maybe i can peice my own kit together since i wont need alot of the parts included. or i can get the whole kit and have alot of spare parts left over.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 06:39 PM
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I also recomend you beef up the steering knuckles/arms and even the stearing box...

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 07:43 PM
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this axle has the gearing i need, and hopefully he did a good job on the rebuild.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/877489216.html

if he still has it, im pretty sure im gonna take it. that way all i'll need to get after that is a front drive shaft and the SAS kit.
If it doesn't have a locker and Longs in it, that price seems high to me ... I think it's BEYOND STUPID to do a SAS without a front locker and Longs. You will have just spent a couple thousand dollars for NO increase in capability, and marginal, if any, increase in strength.

If it doesn't have a locker, all you're saving is the price of the gears themselves, as they will have to be setup again when you do the locker.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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from what i've heard, toyota axles are strong enough to handle up to 37's no problem. im probably not gonna be going bigger than 35's anyway, at least not for awhile.

as far as a locker goes, i was thinking of getting an e-locker.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2008, 10:18 PM
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from what i've heard, toyota axles are strong enough to handle up to 37's no problem. im probably not gonna be going bigger than 35's anyway, at least not for awhile.

as far as a locker goes, i was thinking of getting an e-locker.
Molly broke the crap out of her stock Birfs with only 35's and a crappy Trutrac. (I've got pictures somewhere, but Shutterfly is being a bitch)

If you're gonna be wheeling hard enough to truly need a SAS, you need Longs.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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well, guess i got me sum researching to do.

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 10:34 AM
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Molly broke the crap out of her stock Birfs with only 35's and a crappy Trutrac. (I've got pictures somewhere, but Shutterfly is being a bitch)

If you're gonna be wheeling hard enough to truly need a SAS, you need Longs.
I agree with this. My old truck had 5.29 r&p, single case with 4.70 gear set and stock birfs and shafts up front. I grenaded my birfs on Guardian Rock in Carnage Canyon. I replaced everything with the Longs and never broke....that's what I have now in my new truck. Highly recommended!!!

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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here's my game plan:

-pray that ill find a job here pretty soon
-get the truck up on jack stands
-probably sell my 33's for parts funding since im going to go 35's anyway
-cut out the ifs crap
-patch up the frame/get it prepped
-find an axle housing
-get the Longs (am i going to be needing Longs for the rear axle as well?)
-get/build a diff with an e-locker and 4.88s
-get the SAS kit from Trail Gear and use the parts that come with it to rebuild the axle
-get new calipers for the front
-build up the entire axle frmo hub to hub
-build up the front suspension/hang the axle up

hopefully i can get this done some time early next year (maybe on the anniversary of the 3.0's death). since the SAS kit cost $1049, the axle housing ~$200 (i think), the diff with 4.88's and an e-locker ~$1000 (i think),
the Long's kit $655, and giving room for misc cost and what not, im guessing that the whole thing will cost around $3500. holy shit

in retrospect, maybe i should get some used calipers and rotors in the mean time and not render the runner useless just yet...that way at least i can use it when i need it while i get parts/build up the axle. then when i have the axle all ready to go and all the parts i need are in the garage, then i can start the

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 10:12 PM
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Sounds like a good plan. Don't forget wheels and tires. They're a big expense! I have stock shafts in the rear of my rig. The weak point is gonna be r&p

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-26-2008, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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so, if the rear axle can handle a locker and 35's, why cant the front? are the shafts the same?

88' 4Runner: 3.4L, 4" lift, rear Detroit, 33's, 4.88s, sliders, soft-topper,
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 07:59 AM
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Stock rear is 30 spline.

Stock front is 30 spline at the diff and at the hub, but necks down sharply to 27 splines between the inner and outer birf.

Also, the front turns - steering axles are inherently weaker than non-steer axles because of the joint (whether CV or u-joint)

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-06-2008, 10:39 PM
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I upgraded to V-6 calipers when I built my truck up. I got them from Autozone and sent my 84 crappy calipers back to get my core $$$ back No complains from the Autozone reman calipers so far. They seem to stop the 40's just fine.

About the TG SAS kit. I used everything on their kit except the knuckle rebuilt kit. I honestly don't trust the China made trunion bearings that come in the kit. Several guys on Pirate have had issues with the bearings braking and taking out their $650 Longfields. No worth it IMO. I used Marlin's rebuild kit that comes with OEM Koyo bearings. Peace of mind for sure!
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 06:05 PM
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Use Napa, that is what we use at work... The others are not bad, Hell one time I got a factory Denso TPS from checker for the price of a cheapo one. Now I get cost @ Napa, Autozone, Carquest, etc...

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