Anyone in Denver Metro area running 4.30 or 4.56 gearing on Tacoma Dcab? - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone in Denver Metro area running 4.30 or 4.56 gearing on Tacoma Dcab?

Anyone in Denver Metro area running 4.30 or 4.56 gearing on Tacoma Dcab?

I have read for hours the varying opinions about gearing, tire size, and super chargers - but many of the posts are skewed because at sea level, everything is different.

I have an '01 Tacoma Double Cab running 265/75/16 and drive over Eisenhower and go wheelin' in Georgetown etc... and often am towing my motorcycle trailer or pop-up.

I am looking for someone who has direct experience with my setup who might shed some light on what the best solution is.

I am thinking about 4.30 gearing despite hearing it's expensive. It can't cost more than a supercharger and doesn't require extensive troubleshooting...

Anyone out there already "fixed" their DCab?

Thanks,

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 06:35 PM
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Are you sure you won't go to anything larger than 265/75?

Regardless, I would gear one step lower than what sea level recomends... but then I have a weaker motor powering a heavier rig.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 08:31 PM
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4.88's will give you room to grow (for 33's) and put a little more 'pep' in your truck. I dont have any experience with 4.30 or 4.56 though. Sorry.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 10:31 PM
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I would recommend 4.88's personally.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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The 265/75/16s do just fine in most situations that I get myself in and going larger isn't in my plans.

The lowest gearing I ever considered was 4.56 - can't imagine running 4.88 with my little donuts - I'd be screaming 5500 rmp when rolling down I-70 @ 80mph : ) I could slow down but... nah.

Somebody out there is running 4.30 - NO? Just need to let the post marinade I guess until someone sees it.

Thanks for the input though...

Cheers.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Pix of the rig if interested

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:31 AM
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I'm running 4.56 with 255/85/16's. On the trail it might be nice to have the 4.88s, but on the highway 4.56 is a good gear for the tire size. I can't imagine 4.88's on 265/75's on the highway. For me 70mph is real close to 3000 rpm. I don't find the need to go much faster than that very often. 4.30's with 265/75's would be closer to stock final drive ratio, but I wouldn't think you'd feel much difference over 4.10's. IMO 4.56 would be a good comprimise with 265/75 tires. You might find it winds up a little higher on the highway, but the low range control you will have off the pavement will more than make up for it. Swap your speedo gear with one that has three more teeth (I think), and your speedometer/odometer should be pretty close.

If highway duty is really your #1 concern, a TRD S/C installed in your own garage isn't going to be that much more expensive than gears installed by pro that knows what he's doing. For example, I paid $1250 for a used S/C and installed it myself in about four and half hours in my own garage with basic tools. I purchased Motive gears and install kits at a good price and had them installed by a shop for ~$1100 total. Don't let all the hype about tunning and fuel goodies on the S/C scare you. At our elevation, the air is thin enough that fuel delivery is only a problem if you are running a overdrive pulley.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 11:42 AM
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Gear Ratio Calculator


That is a great tool to use when deciding on gearing for your rig.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 10:05 PM
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I have a set of 4.56s (front and rear) and most of the install kits (had to pinch a couple items for my install). These are for the NON-TRD truck (I didn't see any mention of TRD in your post or sig). PM me if you want more information.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 11:21 AM
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I'm stoked about my 4.88 gears! Waiting on quotes from a couple shops...

...FarmerTodd, you should definitely opt for the 4.56s. I don't believe 4.30s will benefit you proportionally to their cost. I don't drive a dub-cab, but nonetheless, as somebody with a very heavy Tacoma ('03 ext cab V6 5spd) who feels bogged down on Eisenhower, I would suggest going a step lower than your initial estimate.

Another thing to consider is that most folks recommend lower ratios for the auto trans trucks than the manual trans trucks. The stepped down ratio should prove invaluable for towing and eliminate unnecessary wear on your trans.


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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 11:25 AM
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I just checked out your pics FarmerTodd, and that's a real nice rig. Nice choices on the suspension, sliders, and skidplate, and bumper. And very clean. Awesome truck.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome responses ! Thank you !

I knew there were some folks out there who know what thin air really does to a Tacoma.

I am starting to think the 4.56 gearing is a better fit ... and may have to start seriously looking for a used SC and do an install. Doing it myself appeals to me so I can remove it if I don't dig it.

See you on the trail !

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breathegood View Post
Don't let all the hype about tunning and fuel goodies on the S/C scare you. At our elevation, the air is thin enough that fuel delivery is only a problem if you are running a overdrive pulley.
You have a Black SC installed with none of the fuel injector upgrades, no 7th injector, no lower temp thermo, and no off OEM plugs?

If I can install a SC without the bull, I think I'd do it.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FarmerTodd View Post
You have a Black SC installed with none of the fuel injector upgrades, no 7th injector, no lower temp thermo, and no off OEM plugs?

If I can install a SC without the bull, I think I'd do it.
I think I gave you the wrong impression. I have all the goodies installed (see my sig), but I don't feel that they are needed if you stick to the stock pulley size. I recommend starting with the S/C (stock pulley), wideband AFR gauge, and 160* t-stat. If you experience any pinging, I would wager $50 it's a timing issue and not a fuel supply issue. Get a piggyback that will allow you to retard the timing and leave the fuel alone unless your wideband tells you you're higher than ~12.0 at WOT. I have the 7th injector kit, but even with the 2.0" pulley, I don't have to add much fuel at all to get my AFR's to well below 11.0 at WOT. If you live at 5500' and only drive up, this should do it. If you live at 5500' and drive down, my advice would be different.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 01:56 PM
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What ever you go with you may want to think about lockers at the same time since you have to setup the gears. It should cost the same for the install for the locker and gears compared to just the gears. I would suggest ARB lockers. You would also have the cost of the compressor and have to install it.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmerTodd View Post
The 265/75/16s do just fine in most situations that I get myself in and going larger isn't in my plans.

The lowest gearing I ever considered was 4.56 - can't imagine running 4.88 with my little donuts - I'd be screaming 5500 rmp when rolling down I-70 @ 80mph : ) I could slow down but... nah.

Somebody out there is running 4.30 - NO? Just need to let the post marinade I guess until someone sees it.

Thanks for the input though...

Cheers.
I ran into a shit load of false info when i went to 5.29's.

At 4.88 w/ 265/75/16 you'll be just about as over geared as i am with 5.29s w/ 255/85/16. @ 80mph on the highway i sit dead even @ 3500rpm, even now with the 3.4. I have had zero issues with it, and love it.

As stated, you want gears + altitude compensation, so you'll want to gear a little lower than what people at sea level are doing.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 12:11 AM
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Nate, i need to know where you sit at 90 mph rpm wise. and i need true 90 not your speedo 90. if it is below 4k i think i might be going 5.29's also.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 11:56 PM
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@ TRUE 90 im somewhere between 3750-3900, not for sure though.

I know @ TRUE 80 i'm sitting right around 3500
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 12:10 AM
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according to the gear calculator. with 4.88's i would be at 3700 at 90 and just over 4k with the 5.29's. The more i think about it the more i am leaning to the 5.29s.

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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 12:25 AM
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Theyre so worth it. I was skeptical as hell at first because of all the BS info on the national board, about how i'd be at redline in 5th at 80 and blah blah blah blah.

They arent half as bad as people made them out to be, and i absolutely love them. Period.
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 01:05 AM
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except for the fact that you wont put a load in your truck.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 08:28 AM
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And you were concerned about it on the way to Moab last year about having to slow down to let your rear diff cool down. I don't know... obvious advantages off road, but seems like you're forgetting the trip out cruising out to moab at 80.

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 01:46 PM
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And you were concerned about it on the way to Moab last year about having to slow down to let your rear diff cool down. I don't know... obvious advantages off road, but seems like you're forgetting the trip out cruising out to moab at 80.
The diff only had maybe 100-150 miles on it at that point too doug, so there was still some breaking in to be done. We'll see how this year goes, i've made a few trips to the springs/foco at 80+ the whole way without issues in it since.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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I think I gave you the wrong impression. I have all the goodies installed (see my sig), but I don't feel that they are needed if you stick to the stock pulley size. I recommend starting with the S/C (stock pulley), wideband AFR gauge, and 160* t-stat. If you experience any pinging, I would wager $50 it's a timing issue and not a fuel supply issue. Get a piggyback that will allow you to retard the timing and leave the fuel alone unless your wideband tells you you're higher than ~12.0 at WOT. I have the 7th injector kit, but even with the 2.0" pulley, I don't have to add much fuel at all to get my AFR's to well below 11.0 at WOT. If you live at 5500' and only drive up, this should do it. If you live at 5500' and drive down, my advice would be different.
I better learn what an AFR gauge is and how to retard using a piggyback...

Anyone have a used SC for sale ?

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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 10:23 PM
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Have you decided what ratio that you're interested in having installed?

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 12:23 PM
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I better learn what an AFR gauge is and how to retard using a piggyback...

Anyone have a used SC for sale ?
AFR - Air Fuel Ratio. Narrow band AFR's have been around for a long time, but are really only good for carburated vehicles. Wideband AFR's are a little newer but are a must when tuning any electronically fuel injected vehicle.

www.urdusa.com has all of the timing and fuel upgrades you would need.

www.gadgetonline.com has all kinds of good information about the TRD S/C, problems, solutions, and tuning.

2002 V6, X-Cab,TRD SUPERCHARGER, IK22 plugs, URD 2.0" pulley, URD 7th injector kit w/ AFR Calibrator, TRD Headers, TRD Cat-Back, AEM Brute Force w/ Dryflow, ported & polished throtle body, URD Crankshaft pulley, 4.56 Motiv gears, ARB RD-90 locker, 255/85/16 TRXuS MT's, DR Coilovers, Camburg UCA, Skyjacker 2.5" leaf springs, Wheeler's SS rear brakeline, Bilstien 5100's, on board air
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