I need a Clutch...and some HELP! - TTORA Forum
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post #1 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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I need a Clutch...and some HELP!

My clutch is slipping real bad on accel as of today. So I'm going to be needing a hand getting a new one in ASAP. I haven't decided whether to get help from my cousin that's a diesel mechanic, HOW, or what... Anybody want to lend a hand? I will try and track down some parts ASAP.... Then the rest is just trying to get a day that I'm free...
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post #2 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 01:08 PM
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im more than happy to help kyle. i did a clutch in my celica years ago with my dad. PITA!!! i have some tools and would be happy to spend a weekend day or a weekend helpin out.

search before doing anything, even farting, or people will shove that fart so far up your ass, your burp will smell like shit.

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post #3 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Henry. When are you available? I might try for Saturday...and leave Sunday open in the event of a problem...
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post #4 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 02:03 PM
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I just did mine.

make sure that you get a clutch alignment tool, they dont included it when you buy the parts from toyota.

I had to make my own out of two sockets. 8mm deep and a 3/4"


It wasnt that hard to do, make sure that you secure the Clutch "piston assemly"(i dont know what it is really called) before you take the tranny out, otherwise it will extend and its a pain to get it back together. I had to open the cylinder up and remove the fluid and re-bleed the system. If you keep it from extending you really dont need to bleed afterwards.

Good luck!

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post #5 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 02:04 PM
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Im in Wesminster, if I thought there was anything I could do to help I would but when it comes to mechanics Im lost.

Hope everything works out.
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post #6 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 02:05 PM
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Also a pilot bearing puller. They often break when trying to get the clutch off. You rent a puller (free with deposit) from Vato zone and what not. Since Wyoming is canceled we are here this weekend. However due to gas maybe we should come help you at your place or Henry's? We could maybe start friday night...

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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #7 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 03:03 PM
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i can help you saturday and sunday for sure. i dont have any plans and i will leave the weekend open to help. im no pro, but an extra set of hands always helps. you have a haynes/chiltons or somethin to get er done?

search before doing anything, even farting, or people will shove that fart so far up your ass, your burp will smell like shit.

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post #8 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 04:03 PM
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Depends on what the wife says but......I'm in. I've done a few on the second gen's. Only one 3rd gen though. That pilot bearing and clutch alignment tool are essential. I remember buying a clutch from like Vato zone that had the alignment tool in it but it was broken. Go figure.

I work nights so I can either take the night shift (but am usually up on sat and sunday) or work on it friday or something. Got lots of tools I could bring. Maybe even an Air compressor (if I can dig it out) and air tools (makes it so much easier).

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post #9 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 04:05 PM
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Also a pilot bearing puller. They often break when trying to get the clutch off. You rent a puller (free with deposit) from Vato zone and what not. Since Wyoming is canceled we are here this weekend. However due to gas maybe we should come help you at your place or Henry's? We could maybe start friday night...
The puller I got from auto zone did not work. It would not get small enough to pull out that tiny bearing. I have done a lot of tranny work and that has to be the smallest bearing Toyota could have possibly used ...

The best bet is too pack the bearing area with heave grease and hydraulically push it out.

I filled the cavity with heavy grease and got a steel rod that fit just inside the pilot bearing (an 8mm deep socket with the hole plugged would have worked too) . Then lightly tap the rod until the bearing pops out, keep your head out of the way because mine popped way out. You may need to repack the cavity a few times before there is enough grease to push it out.

Once the bearing is out make sure to clean all the grease out of the cavity before putting the new bearing in.

Jerry

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post #10 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 04:55 PM
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What about the newspaper trick to get the bearing out? I have no idea what iut is but I've heard about it and that it works. Anyone? (It's prolly like your suggestion Mythica)

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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #11 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 05:34 PM
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Yeah, when I did mine, I forgot about that and ended up taking ALL DAY to get the pilot bearing out.

I have a clutch alignment tool from mine if you need one.

Tranny jack is very helpful. About 4 feet (yes, really) worth of extension is NECESSARY to get the top bolts.

Be VERY careful putting the pilot bearing back in. Use a block of wood and tap it in VERY square and VERY carefully. The last thing you want to do is have to take all that apart again to replace a bad pilot bearing.

You might want to replace the rear main seal while you have it all apart.

Lastly - how many miles are on this truck kid? My clutch lasted like 200k miles ... might want to evaluate how you drive!

Oh - I went with the Marlin Crawler clutch kit.

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post #12 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 07:40 PM
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Tranny jack is very helpful. About 4 feet (yes, really) worth of extension is NECESSARY to get the top bolts.
Hard to say.

3.4 is a MUCH better designed engine. IIRC, you can reach them from the top.

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post #13 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 08:26 PM
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i could reach my top two tranny bolts from the wheel well with a swivel socket, pain in the arse, but it reaches. 3.4l

A tranny jack would have been nice, but the tranny weighs next to nothing, even with my crawler on the back it weighs FAR less than an NP435 or a t18/19. My brother and i man handled it back in there.

If you have never changed a clutch, make sure that you keep the tranny in gear when you go to stab it (you have to take off the shifter, put it in gear first, even though you can select gears with out the shifter, its easier if you already have it in gear). You will need to turn the output shaft inorder to line up the splines on the input shaft.

I havent heard of the newspaper trick, Molly. If it is like the greasy hydrulic trick then it might be better, and less messy. What is the idea behind it? Stuff a bunch of paper in there, and then use a push rod and push out the bearing from the back with the paper?


As far as mileage(im curious how many QD has too), i was sad to see my stock clutch go at 115k, it was in beautiful shape, but i had to put the crawler in so.. well i didnt want to take all that crap off later so i ate the money and got a factory clutch.

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post #14 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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My mileage is at 176k. I believe that it is the stock clutch, but I don't really have any way of knowing. Troy, the clutch seemed like it was almost done when I got the truck back in July. I've put 8,000 miles on it. I'm pretty easy on my clutch, for the most part, except for a few isolated incidents. Alex however, is not...she drove it once and glazed the hell out of it. Regardless, driving it extremely carefully probably would have only given me about another 3,000 miles. It was done for anyway. The history of the truck is largely unknown with 176k, only 8 of them mine. It seems silly to blame the failure on me...
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post #15 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 09:07 PM
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lol good excuse. Your a high school student right?........


But anyway, you wont have a problem changing the clutch once you get in there and do it.

Just take your time and pay attention and you will be in good shape

Jerry

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post #16 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
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It seems silly to blame the failure on me...
Come on now Kyle... he wasn't blaming you He was only thinking about how he drove when hewas young and he drove like a bat outta hell. Unlike you Troy was a total dufas with cars. LOL

Guys we gotta stop reading into posts. We're all friends here and seriously all we do is rib eachother. If you think your post could be taken the wrong way... USE A FARKING SMILEY DAMMIT!

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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #17 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 09:37 PM
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some of us young'uns baby our trucks. we know we dont have any $$ to spend on reparis from doing stupid things, or burning clutches, or quickly wearing breaks...ya know, the usual. some of us drive like grandmas except when we have too.

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allow me to help with the mind-fuck ...
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post #18 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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So here are my thoughts as of now:

The clutch hasn't slipped the last 2 times I drove it, along the same route, after the same amount of warm-up. The only difference is that the first time was in traffic, in a gear a little too high, then once it warmed up with the first slip, it was pretty damn easy to get going. I'm thinking that the clutch will only slip if I heat it up pretty good....like I was doing with downshift braking, stop and go crap, followed by extended acceleration in a gear too high. This means that this may not be entirely urgent. Yes, the clutch will need to be done, but if it doesn't come together this weekend, that's fine.

I will try to make tomorrow my evalutation day for the situation. I'll drive it a bit, and see just how much it slips. I will also see if I can make some adjustments to the freeplay, and stroke. I know these are way out, and according to the factory service manual, that could contribute to slippage, but don't ask me how. After that, if everything is a go for the weekend, I will set the start time, get the parts together, make some phone calls, etc...

So....who's got suggestions for a parts source? Any possible discounts anywhere? What about the pilot bearing? Where should I get something to pull it? Should I get the flywheel turned, or get a new flywheel and take back the core? What else will I need? By the way, I have a motorcycle jack, that as far as I can tell would make an excellent tranny jack. It won't cradle the whole thing, but it will sure as hell help out a lot....
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post #19 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 10:55 PM
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I recommend Marlin Crawler - they sell a kit that has everything you need - throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, alignment tool, etc. Price seemed pretty reasonable to me.

I went ahead and got a flywheel from Marlin too just to be safe, and to save install time.

Motorcycle jack will work great.

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post #20 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 11:09 PM
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So....who's got suggestions for a parts source? Any possible discounts anywhere? What about the pilot bearing? Where should I get something to pull it? Should I get the flywheel turned, or get a new flywheel and take back the core? What else will I need? By the way, I have a motorcycle jack, that as far as I can tell would make an excellent tranny jack. It won't cradle the whole thing, but it will sure as hell help out a lot....
lol didn't someone tell you like a month ago to order the parts?????


www.trdparts4u.com email barb and ask for remanned parts, the direct replacement parts take 8 weeks unless they are actually in stock, tell them you are from the ttora club usually works. you will end up with some guy helping you but barb still works in parts if i remember.

troy is very right about getting a flywheel. mine was perfectly fine when i did mine, but i also did mine because the rear main started leaking.....


you could get the remanned parts and save some money now but the upgraded parts are definitely worth it, especially a higher weight pressure plate, it will hold the torque better when wheeling.

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post #21 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 11:50 PM
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Smiley? Whats that?

I'm pretty much always a jerk. No need for smileys.

I dissagree about the motorcycle jack. I've done it both ways and it SUCKED HUGE using the motorcycle jack. Let me put it this way. We had the tranny back in within 15 minutes using a tranny jack. It took an hour and a half using the motorcycle jack.

I didn't really like the jack that Troy procured for his install. It was much less useful than the one I used. What I recomend is to look for one that has knobs on it. Those indicate adjustability, so you can tilt and move the tranny side to side and back and forth without wiggling or manhandling the tranny much at all. A smooth operation means less chance for damaged parts.

Hopefully not too many of you will take offense to this post. I realize a great many of you have MUCH more experience than I, a humble shadetree hobbyist. I offer this as simple experience, nothing more, nothing less, and expect it to only be taken with the grain of salt that it is worth.

Where's my smiley again?

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post #22 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 12:24 AM
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your clutch shouldnt heat up that much under braking by compression.

Unless you dont rev-match?

I try to rev match anything i drive for the sake of the clutch, and well, thus far, its worked out great for me.

I dunno why yours is going out so early, it cant be from one significant event.

My 92 had like 188k on the clock when it was towed away, i bought it with 177k (yes i drive ALOT) and beat the shit out of it for 6 months, on the original clutch, and never had a problem?

Just seems odd to me.

But none the less, if im done with the body work, bumper, and sliders by the weekend, ill swing by and lend a hand for a bit.

If youre going aftermarket OEM replacement, id look into exedy, ive had nothing but great expierence with them (however im not too sure if they make a kit for your truck). And, not too sure if its been mentioned or not, but either find a place that will resurface flywheels, or get a new flywheel before you do the install.
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post #23 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 07:47 AM
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I baught my old truck cheap because it needed a cluch. I lived in boulder at the time and I couldn't even drive to flat Irons mall without pulling over and trying to make it up that hill. memories. I did it by myself in a garage in a weekend (first time on a toyota).

You can do it just make sure you have all the parts you need and don't forget to remove the shifters. ha ha more memories. If your parent lets you it would be nice to have a beer when you get frustrated just dont get so frustrated that you pass out.

Your cluch is going to get worse the more you drive it so order the parts now and get your flywheel sorted out (i took mine apart on FRI and had it resurfaced early SAT morn).

A motorcycle jack will work but I used an engine hoist in the cab and down through the shifter holes with some ratchet straps. Lots of crawling out from under the truck though. Make sure you have a floor jack under there too "in case". If you dont do it this weekend I can arange for mine to be available next wknd.

Keep us posted and good luck. It sounds like you have a lot of people eager to help.

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post #24 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 10:49 AM
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I'm having trouble with mine: The idiots at MIDAS who welded the AFR bung also broke both studs off that hold the Toy AFR WHEN PUTTING IT BACK IN!.

I got the old studs out, then they replaced 'em -- apparently with some cheap Chinese crap that broke after a few heat cycles. (I installed the Toy AFR myself, so I know they were not over-torqued.) At any rate I'm running very lean and one stud is broken off.

If I get it fixed I'll be available this weekend.

For pilot bushings: It's often easier to find a bolt that will self-tap into the bushing - then use it to jack the bushing out when it bottoms on the crank. (Or you can actually tap the bushing.)

If Troy's alignment tool is the right one, use it. Else plastic ones are usually available at NAPA for cheap. Think about the way the tranny will be wanting to stab, and bias the clutch alignment that way - usually by holding down on the back of the tool slightly as you tighten the pressure plate bolts.

I have never done a clutch in a Taco, and would like to gain the experience.

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post #25 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Let me ask you guys this: If you're driving along, and hold in the clutch about halfway for 3 seconds while still on the gas to heat it up a bit, can you get your clutch to slip? I could get mine to let go just a little bit by doing this....but I can't decide whether all clutches or just mine would react that way.
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post #26 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 11:47 AM
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The test for a clutch is to nose into something gently, set the ebrake, then try to start off in like third gear. If the truck stalls, your clutch is Ok, if it stays running, your clutch needs to be replaced.

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post #27 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 01:11 PM
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Where's my smiley again?
I got yer smiley RIGHT here ya punk! *wink*

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How many people do you think it'd take to hold Molly down while we cut off a limb? I'm guessing alot, plus ratchet straps, c-clamps, and other misc tools
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post #28 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 01:15 PM
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Get and use a transmission floor jack. That tranny and transfer case is NOT fun when it's sitting on your chest...especially if you're lying on a cold cold concrete floor on New Years Day...

AND have one person who marks EVERY bolt and piece as it's removed. That is put the drive shaft bolts in a bag and mark it, etc. This will save you a BIG headache when putting it back together.

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post #29 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 05:29 PM
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Get and use a transmission floor jack. That tranny and transfer case is NOT fun when it's sitting on your chest...especially if you're lying on a cold cold concrete floor on New Years Day...

AND have one person who marks EVERY bolt and piece as it's removed. That is put the drive shaft bolts in a bag and mark it, etc. This will save you a BIG headache when putting it back together.

amen to that! make sure its warm when you do it lol.

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post #30 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 06:58 PM
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x2 to the bolt lableing and warm concrete

86 runner
Rebuilt 22re, r151, ep9.0, 31's, addicted front bumper
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Yea, 2 days later and I still feel like a sack of assholes.
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Problem with clutch/clutch pedal bpina4813 Pickup/Early 4Runner Tech 12 01-12-2007 11:18 PM
No clutch.. blackbear Early Tacoma Tech 11 08-26-2006 10:09 PM

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