Fused O2 sensor - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Fused O2 sensor

Hi All,

Any thoughts on getting a fused O2 sensor out (this is on my 89)? The two nuts that hold it in will not budge. I've tried heat, PB blaster, smacking them. I used some bolt extractors, and they just shredded the nut. Not only that, the nut is so close to the O2 sensor itself that the hex on the bolt extractor would hit it, giving me a usable 32nd of a turn or so. I took the pipe off to get at it better, but I can't get the sucker off. Any ideas short of cutting it off and welding a new bung (which I can't do)?

To make matter worse, I have to get emissions done within a month. So I've been driving the Brown Bomb. I don't know if I should keep that thing...

B
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 12:19 PM
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I'm getting ready to do mine this weekend. I was reading a post that said to run the truck for a while to heat it up first then be very careful to not burn yourself. I'm counting on some burns myself, but you might try heating it up a bit to see if that helps things along. Since you got some pb-blaster on there already, you could just light that on fire lol.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 05:15 PM
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Has anybody tried that new bolt breaking stuff that freezes the nut? It's a BG product I think, and it super freezes stuff to unstick rusted hardware. It might be cool to try it....heat the thing up real good and then freeze it real quick.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 07:45 PM
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damn, I was gunna say cut it and weld in a new one but then I finished reading the post. other than that I dont have any good ideas.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 08:57 PM
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Since they're probably stripped (First generally I would try to manufacture a long cheater bar, many times this is all you need), you could try something like a dremel tool with a metal cutting disk. A plasma cutter would be handy in this situation. I would say x2 on getting it really hot. I bet if it was hot maybe you could get it to crack if the nuts old and you can get access to liquid CO2 and hose it. This is kinda like the situation of getting seized u-bolts off. Only way is by cutting.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 10:04 PM
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What I have done before is take a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Halfway up the head of the bolt, looking from the side, cut out a deep notch, that you can fit a screwdriver into. Put a screwdriver into the notch off to the side that will make the bolt spin loose. Hammer the shit out of it.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Got 'em off. Took it to a buddies place and we air hammered the crap out of the nuts. One of them essentiall busted off, the other was like using a dremel, but cutting the nut and that released it.

It's all about having the proper tools I guess.

B
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Man, after that pain in the ass to remove two bolts, the check engine light is still throwing the O2 code...

What's more strange is that it'll throw the code after resetting, even before I start the truck Wires look ok, connections look ok. Oh well, I guess check engine light is no longer a required component to pass emissions. I didn't know they changed that. Still annoying though.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 12:13 PM
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just pull the light out of the back of the dash, that's what i had to do to get my light to turn off. i had the exact problem

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 12:20 PM
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for what it's worth, I found that the California model Taco requires not only 2 O2 sensors, but one (the upstream) isn't actually an O2 sensor, it's technicall called an Air/Fuel Sensor. It's not available from the standard parts stores and toyota has jacked the price on it a little (more).

I wondered about trying to just use the standard O2 Sensor and worried that the computers would be out of sync or something and start throwing bogus codes or worse trying to 'fix' things for me by adjusting the ratio.

Being a computer tech I know it's possible, but my ignorance of toyota's leaves me not knowing how probable it is.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 01:27 PM
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 02:02 PM
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Yeah, and being a native of the place, I can promise you the penalty is well deserved.

My point tho was that I have the same connections as trucks made for other states, but it takes different parts, and since those parts are slightly different, it makes me wonder if the computer (or programming) is slightly different, and if it is, and I put in the regular parts (ie a regular ol O2 sensor in place of the expected A/F sensor), does it start to throw odd errors (like a 0420 when nothing is noticably wrong).

Again, theoretically possible (esp if we're talking 420), but I have no idea if it's probable or if it even applies. Just a thought for what seems like a strange problem.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 04:00 PM
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just pull the light out of the back of the dash, that's what i had to do to get my light to turn off. i had the exact problem
Thats the simplest way to make the check engine light go away.
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