metal for bumper....how thick? - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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metal for bumper....how thick?

starting to gather supplys for the bumpers and tire carrier...

how thick should i get to make it strong but still do what it needs to in a wreck.
I was thinking 1/4 for the bumper and 1/2 for the brackets but im just guessing.

kinda what im going for out back

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 12:30 PM
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3/16 will do you fine. 1/4 will be beefier, but I'm not sure its worth the weight.

1/2 is WAY overkill for the brackets. 1/4 to 3/8 is PLENTY. Let me put it this way. Your frame is 1/8". Even with 1/4 you'll lose the frame before you lose the bumper. 1/2 isn't worth the weight.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 12:46 PM
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I wouldn't/haven't gone with anything thicker then 1/4". Like AxleIke said, your frame is only 1/8". I made my mounts for my rear bumper out of 1/4" angle but only because that is what I had. 3/16" is plenty strong enough. The main tube of my rear bumper is 3/16" and I tow with it. Most tow hitches are all 3/16". When I build my front bumper I'll use 3/16" for the mount and winch mount but 1/8" for the rest.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-17-2007, 01:40 PM
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Mine is 2x2x.120 with 1/4" brackets IIRC and it withstood the whole weight of the truck sliding down Kenny's Climb with only a minor bend. Of course, I have two rails of it too.

My front bumper is 2x4x.120 I think.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so im thinking now 3/8 with 1/4 brackets cause i want the rear to be beefcake. Its going to be up so high if it get hit from the rear im going to have dents in my axle anyways. Plus swinging a 36+ around is going to be some stress on that thing so i may end up doing something with the frame out back. I should cause the bottom side of the rails are dented down from mounting my hitch up on top and having the bolts in the C shaped part. From what i have read i need to move the rear spring hanger back once i do the trail gear leafs so its gotta be strong over there and straight.

What do you guys think of the tire rack? Im trying to have as much usable room in the bed as possible. It will be canbacked and be my new heated sleeping area at some point. Im thinking highlift mount behind the tire because my new one wont fit sideways in the bed and i have heard bad stuff about it pointing forward. Also going to do a reciever in the center of the bumper and the shackles like he has on his. I just gotta get better pics of that rack to see how his swings out.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
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I forgot to add...With the bars and mounting for the tire rack the tails are kinda hidden so im thinking an LED brake light in the center of the wheel thats only a stop light so people know im stopping. Any pics would be helpful for the latch he has or the joint. I found his album on photobucket but the pics dont show much more then the one i posted.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 09:25 AM
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I hope you are talking 3/16" not 3/8". There is no reason to build the bumper out of thicker material then the mountings. If I was building a bumper with a tire carrier it would be 3/16" or 1/4" mounting and 3/16" main tube. The sides and add-ons could be 1/8" (.120) Also have the mountings as long as possable. This will disperse the stress of the bumper/hitch/weight down the frame. I know that there are alot of tire carriers out there that are mounted on a spindle but I would have it a double sheer. I walked by a (I know I hate them also) H2 and noticed that the tire carrier was a bolt on. It actualy looked kinda nice.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-18-2007, 10:23 AM
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3/16 is fine.

Russel, with the tire carrier, the bumper is not the issue. It is the hinge.

My buddy runs an IPOR spindle on his 40, with a 35 spare.

http://www.ironpigoffroad.com/fab/diy.shtml (scroll down until you see "complete spindle assy")

It has been fine for 2 years. However, hes had a busted tail bone for 1 of those years, and thus hasn't seen any trail time.

If it were me, i'd use Slee's set up. It is bomb proof. But pricey. around 100 bucks IIRC. Its not on their site anymore, but I'm pretty sure you can still order it.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry it was late when i wrot that. I think this will get under way after Xmas. I really want to get the body in order on my truck and cant do the bed because i need to know how much im cutting off.

Im using thos pics to go off of and im going to PM the guy whos truck it is to find out how its holding up cause he has pics with it on and off i wonder if it broke at one point. If its holding a 40 its gotta be strong enough to hold my 36's and if i ever get to my 37/38 size cap it will still work.

How much will i get hastled with the bottom of the carrier blocking the lower part of the tail light like his? Im adding a brake light and think my tails are pretty bright already so it should be visable.

Will the sizes mentioned hold a winch? Im going to make my winch move front to rear so it needs to be able to hold whatever the winch can dish out.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 10:46 PM
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For a relocatable winch, having it go into more than one receiver is a really good idea. You can add a receiver at each mount, so like three across.

My plan is to build binders or some other adjustable means to tie the mount to the shackle mounts to provide some significant side-to-side stability.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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So i guess now my question is do i do 3 recivers in the back or one and 2 D ring shackles? I was thinking just do some beefy Drings and get a snatch block. I dont know how much the rear winch will be needed but that one time it does i dont know that i want to be fighting it or having the bumper and tire carrier come flyin off.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-19-2007, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRunnertc View Post
For a relocatable winch, having it go into more than one receiver is a really good idea. You can add a receiver at each mount, so like three across.

My plan is to build binders or some other adjustable means to tie the mount to the shackle mounts to provide some significant side-to-side stability.

recievers stacked on top of each other will be more durable..... brace up the lower mount and it will be just fine. when i used to do the RV thing we would install superhitches(its a brand name thing) that had just 2 stacked recievers for the hitch and just double hitch crossbars. with a 48" extension in there it could still pull 500/5000. if you only do them side by side it wont really increase much in strength.... just stability side to side.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 08:36 AM
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Remember there are alot of 9,000 lb H2s out there using the stock single receiver hitch and Multi-Mounts. If these were failing they wouldn't be selling them still. I would think that a single receiver that is well braced in a bumper made out of 3/16 and 1/4 brackets will hold. You could add to the Multi-Mount (or home-built mount) a couple of stop pads that push against the bumber to eliminate the side to side movement.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 09:46 AM
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Stability side to side is the real issue with receiver mounted winches. I'm sure there are many ways to skin the cat, but you need to plan on one of them.

On a similar thought - make your D-ring shackles where the pin of the shackle is vertical. I have found that side pulling on the shackle is A LOT more common than elevation difference and wish mine were mounted that way. (They are mounted that way on Molly's front bumper)

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