On a similar topic...funny how a certain somebody said he would never do 35s on a Tacoma, because he could do everything with 33s, and that was just a stupid "big truck guy" thing....and then after he did it, suddenly its cool, everybody else thinks its a good idea. Good luck with that. Your truck was breaking non-stop to the point that you almost wanted to quit wheeling....but now you're getting even bigger tires, based on one guy saying he "quit braking with bigger tires". Yeah...right.
If i wanted more of your fucking lip, I would of jiggled my zipper
Your bullshit here is in no way related to this topic.
I only did 35's because i got them for almost $500 cheaper than it would of cost me to replace my 255/85's (which would of been most ideal).
The kit will likely come with shocks. While they're not the best out there, they do the job well and they function. I ran the OME shocks on my truck (still am in the front) and wheeled the hell out of it; it did just fine. The only thing I didnt like about them is the dampening wasnt there and with any sort of weight over the rear it would just turn to mush and wasn't stable at all.
They'll also limit some of your droop travel (about 2" worth, at least on a Tacoma) however, again, not a really big issue. It's something that could definitely be upgraded in the future. However, i wouldn't suggest stock shocks with a lift at all. They'll be way too short.
Manual hub trucks are more prone to breaking at the outer stub shaft due to it being a smaller overall diameter, however it will save your boots because the CV's wont be turning on the highway and rubbing on each other all of the time. They'll only be rubbing when the truck is in 4wd, offroad or in the snow. Where as an ADD truck they will rub all of the time no matter what. When you break a CV there is about a 98% chance that it will not effect the boot at all.
Also, it's not overly common to break them in the stub shaft. Despite was asshat above says, I wheeled my truck HARD and beat on it for a year (wheeling Carnage 2/3 times a week, moab twice, holy cross back to back, tons of other trails) and NEVER broke a CV. My front diff is in less than OK shape, and the result is quite a few broken axles. Open front trucks usually
break them in the joint. Most of the time even locked front trucks break them in the joint, there is just something weird going on with my truck that I have not been capable of diagnosing just yet.
You can definitely get away with running 35's on IFS, there's the common belief that you must solid axle to wheel the hard trails, and the big lines. That's not the case. IFS definitely isn't the best or most ideal setup for hard trails, and rock crawling; however it does the job. If you're going to regear, it doesn't matter what ratio you choose. It's all the same cost to do it, a 5.29 ratio might be $10-$15 more than a 4.88 but it's nothing substantial.
I'm not too sure on the year of your runner which may determine this. A lot of people will suggest 4.88's to you for 33's. Personally I'd suggest 5.29's (especially with a 3.slow) since we're all already at a loss of power/torque due to altitude. In reality, a stock truck geared to 4.56 up here is about the same 'umph' as the same stock truck at sea level with 4.10's. Also, 5.29's wouldn't be a bad idea because it would save you $$$$ in the long run when you solid axle, since solid axle will for sure bring larger tires you'll have 1 less diff to regear.
Lots of arguments are made against 5.29's with 33's as far as gas mileage goes, however I was avg. 18-19, and my best was 20. This was also not really driving "conservatively" (80mph, shifting at higher RPM, etc.).