Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - DIY? - TTORA Forum
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - DIY?

Another of my wheel bearings is about to bite the dust - only 11 months into its life. A co worker has a 2006 Tacoma and is on bearing number 7 and 8 - I'm now needing number 5.

My two previous replacements were installed by the dealer under warranty. Since my warranty has now expired, I hope to attempt this myself. The FSM describes removing the upper and lower ball joint to complete the procedure, but I really don't see how this is necessary.

I have access to a full garage including two lifts, two industrial air compressors, as well as a full range of air tools - father in law is part owner of an independent garage, and I have a key.

I've been doing my own light work there for years. My concern is that I'm out of town on business all week and only have weekends to perform the repair. The local dealer isn't open on weekends so I want to have all my ducks lined up in a row before I start. GOT TO have the vehicle operational again by Sunday evening so I want to be prepared.

I may contact a recycling yard this week and try and locate a spare hub/bearing assembly. This way I can rebuild it during the week while I'm away and install it during the weekend when I get home. The only uncertainty I have is regarding the seals and whether the upper and lower BJ actually have to be separated from the spindle. I say no - even though the FSM says yes.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 12:50 AM
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I just order the complete assembly (bearing plus cap with 4 bolt holes) plus seals. Sometimes it takes a gnarly press to pop them out of the spindle, sometimes they fall out with a knock of a rubber hammer. Either way, pretty much have to pull the entire spindle to get them out, sure you could use a puller of some sort, but it's just faster to use a press. With the right tools on hand, it can be done in a couple of hours, the first set took me all weekend with no press and basic hand tools (no puller or anything), it was a bitch. They were corroded and really stuck, ended up using a sledge to get them out (don't do that).

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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That was pretty much the route I intended to go - order up the bearing and plate (with the four holes) and get the wheel hub pressed into it. So in order to remove the bearing plate you have to remove the entire spindle from the truck by separating from both the upper and lower ball joints?
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 09:38 AM
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yes, just unbolt the spindle from the upper and lower control arms and leave them on the truck, remove the brake caliper and abs sensor (they break easy be gentle), remove the axle nut and pop the cv out (don't have to remove it from truck either), remove four bolts, press everything apart, then press it all back together. Piece of cake.

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Did you replace both the inner and outer seals as well as the O ring between the spindle and the brake backing plate?
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 03:42 PM
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I always do, they are cheap and always seem to be full of mud, but in a pinch you could just clean them out and reuse them. The bearings come with the o-ring, just need the other seals. Most dealerships sell it as a kit type deal.

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
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That was pretty much the route I intended to go - order up the bearing and plate (with the four holes) and get the wheel hub pressed into it. So in order to remove the bearing plate you have to remove the entire spindle from the truck by separating from both the upper and lower ball joints?
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yes, just unbolt the spindle from the upper and lower control arms and leave them on the truck, remove the brake caliper and abs sensor (they break easy be gentle), remove the axle nut and pop the cv out (don't have to remove it from truck either), remove four bolts, press everything apart, then press it all back together. Piece of cake.

The bearings are a separate service unit, on the 05~up..
No need to remove the whole knuckle assy.

Get the hub, bearing assy, and the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle.

Have them pressed and ready to swap out with one side....

Then save the old hub, cut/press/smash the bearing off, and use the hub and bolts, for the next time..

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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 09:09 PM
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Just upgraded from my 04 taco to an 08 and these wheel bearings seem to be a re-occurring theme.

How do you know they go bad, Im assuming some sort of noise, or should we just be checking and looking for leaks on the inner wheel / tire?
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 03:40 PM
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i know there was a thread about this before...but i remember some talk about different bearings being used in place of the toyota ones...anyone have any luck with a different brand not going back so quickly? i had my tires balanced a few thousand miles ago and when it was up on the rack there was no play but guy said it felt like it was dragging a little. going to put my lift on in the near future and figured might as well do the bearings while im at it.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 07:50 PM
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I too am curious to know how one would know their wheel bearing is bad?

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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 08:13 PM
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Just upgraded from my 04 taco to an 08 and these wheel bearings seem to be a re-occurring theme.

How do you know they go bad, Im assuming some sort of noise, or should we just be checking and looking for leaks on the inner wheel / tire?
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I too am curious to know how one would know their wheel bearing is bad?

Grinding/humming noises ?



or........................................












THE WHEEL FEELS LOOSE

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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 03:48 PM
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anyone with suggestions for bearing brand aside from factory parts that has held up well?
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 05:18 PM
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none so far, i think it was timken but im may be wrong that is producing a bearing with a metal cage instead of a composite one that may be able to hold up to the stress better.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 05:21 PM
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What's the deal with toyota?? you guys are on multiple bearing replacements here... what are you using the trucks for? plowing? I have 60K on my 07 and front end still solid... I think...
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 05:55 PM
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i have 62k with wheeling mixed in on mine and have no problems, running 4" backspacing wheels with 33's.

but i have seen people with less km on the same setup that have gone through 4 or 5 already.
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 06:19 PM
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that was what I had for rims (AR teflon) but for only 5K, picked up FJ 16x7.5 rims because of the less aggressive offset and less stress on bearings and suspension... SO the question is this: are all of you tacoma bro's up there using 8" or wider rims with zero to negative offsets??
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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I always do, they are cheap and always seem to be full of mud, but in a pinch you could just clean them out and reuse them. The bearings come with the o-ring, just need the other seals. Most dealerships sell it as a kit type deal.
To replace the inner seal do you actually remove the spindle from the truck as per the FSM? Is a press required to install this seal as per the FSM?

Thanks.
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 07:33 PM
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you don't have to, but you do have to remove the cv, and you can't do that without pulling the spindle loose from the lower control arm, at that point you are half to getting it out anyway. I still don't see how to get the bearing out without a press, but maybe mine were so corroded from road salt and mud I had to.
As to the longevity issues, it mostly has to do with wheel backspacing and mud/water in the bearing.

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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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When you say "get the bearing out without a press", do you mean separate the hub from the bearing?

I have access to a 10 ton press, but picked up a spare hub today from the auto recyclers that I'll get a new bearing pressed on before starting, even if I have to visit a machine shop.

I was just concerned with getting the inner seal seated.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2010, 08:53 PM
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I mean pushing the bearing and bearing retainer outboard (toward tire) to get it out of the spindle. What do you mean by "hub"? The part with the lug bolts on it? That came out with a few whacks of a rubber mallet for me, but who knows. The inner seal goes in with a few taps of a brass punch, easy if you keep it square.

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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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I mean pushing the bearing and bearing retainer outboard (toward tire) to get it out of the spindle. What do you mean by "hub"? The part with the lug bolts on it? That came out with a few whacks of a rubber mallet for me, but who knows. The inner seal goes in with a few taps of a brass punch, easy if you keep it square.
I assumed that once I removed the four bolts holding the bearing retainer to the truck it would just need a little convincing to separate (maybe an air chisel), then on to a press to remove the old hub (with the six wheel studs) and press it into a new bearing.

I also noticed today that I have developed a front diff leak where the CV exits the diff (same side as the bad wheel bearing). I can't seem to find the seal at any of the local dealers so I may have to postphone the bearing swap until next weekend, and swap out the side diff seal at the same time.

Thanks for your replies!
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 05:41 PM
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I had to do both my fronts at 71k on my 05. And the truck has never been off road. It's my winter driver when the FJ40 and Mustang are hibernating. You do need to use a press to install them, and if you are careful there's no need to buy new hubs/drive flanges. I think it's simply that the inner seals are a horribly weak design. Both of mine were shredded when I took it apart. I'm at 98k now with OE seals on both sides and SKF bearings and no bad noises. Slightly off topic but due to this and all the other crap that has failed prematurely on this essentially babied and garaged truck it may be the last new Toyota I buy. I've been driving Toyota trucks for 20 years and I have never had so much trouble with one. My brother in law's 05 is no better. Of course they are built here. My wifes 4Runner has double the mileage and besides normal maintenance I haven't had to touch it.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-03-2010, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced the bearing yesterday with one from an auto recycle yard that I got for $100 (the whole assemble new at the dealer would have cost me over $600 Canadian). Planning on taking my old assembly and pressing on a new bearing so I have a spare unit ready to go whenever I need it.

The seal on the old unit was completely trashed in less than 11 months. 184,000 miles on my 1998 Tacoma without a single wheel bearing issue. 104,000 miles now on my 2005 and on my fifth bearing.
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-03-2010, 12:29 PM
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Replaced the bearing yesterday with one from an auto recycle yard that I got for $100 (the whole assemble new at the dealer would have cost me over $600 Canadian). Planning on taking my old assembly and pressing on a new bearing so I have a spare unit ready to go whenever I need it.

The seal on the old unit was completely trashed in less than 11 months. 184,000 miles on my 1998 Tacoma without a single wheel bearing issue. 104,000 miles now on my 2005 and on my fifth bearing.
Damn, those things are expensive in canada, I get mine new from o'reilly for like 105 and they come with a 2 year warranty so when they crap out I just take them the old bearing and they give me a new one.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-03-2010, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Damn, those things are expensive in canada, I get mine new from o'reilly for like 105 and they come with a 2 year warranty so when they crap out I just take them the old bearing and they give me a new one.
Just the bearing alone is $300 at the dealer, NAPA has the bearing for $167 with a 1 year warranty.
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 12:27 AM
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my front bearing is starting to go. This will be my second replacement. I had the dealer do the other one but I'm going to try to do this one myself. This is what I'm going to get, could someone help me and let me know if I need anything else?

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070023

Thanks for the help.

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 07:44 AM
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my front bearing is starting to go. This will be my second replacement. I had the dealer do the other one but I'm going to try to do this one myself. This is what I'm going to get, could someone help me and let me know if I need anything else?

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50070+2070023

Thanks for the help.
Link doesnt work but if its part # BRG FW194 it looks to be the right one. Go to the dealer and get the cv shaft seal as well.

Just drive out the out bearing assembly (four-bolt flange cartridge) from the inside of the spindle out with a punch. You will need a press to get the hub out of the brg and into the new one. If that doesnt sound like too much for you then go for it.

You can always just remove the spindle and bring it and new bearing and seals to a machine shop to have it r & r'd for 35 bucks, then just bolt it back in.

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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 10:20 AM
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thanks for the info, I think I'm going to try it this weekend. I think the guys at the on-post mechanic place will probably be able to give me a hand as well. I'll post back up how much of a pain it is.

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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 04:10 PM
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thanks for the info, I think I'm going to try it this weekend. I think the guys at the on-post mechanic place will probably be able to give me a hand as well. I'll post back up how much of a pain it is.
It's really not hard, however I don't recomend removing the steering knuckle it just isn't necessary, leave all that business attached. Unbolt the 4 bolts on the bearing and use a slide sledge and a hub puller (can usually be borrowed/rented from autoparts stores) and pop that sucker out. As for the hub in the bearing that you will need a press for, once you get it pressed in with the new seals grease up the assembly really good and slide it back into the knuckle gently tapping it with a dead blow or a hammer with a block of wood.

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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 02:54 PM
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How do you know they go bad .... ?
My ABS light came on. Said to be from an increased air gap on the ABS sensors and/or more of a drag on the wheel. I was out of town and soon noticed a chirping noise. Being in the outback I had to drive. Very soon I could feel the bearing jam up/free up. Damn roadside service wanted to tow me to the nearest person that said they can and will work on it. I paid to have it towed all the way home after my local stealership quoted me $590.00 for one side, $940.00 for both. Cripes .
Gonna re read this thread and get dirty.
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