*How to* - front wheel bearing replacement - TTORA Forum
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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation *How to* - front wheel bearing replacement

I searched and didn't find anything about how to replace the wheel bearings, only a bunch of guys taking them to the dealer and getting bent over.

I figured I would post pics step-by-step in order to help out those that haven't experienced this yet.

My symptoms were somewhat different than what most other descriptions were. There was no vibration, sloppiness or "roaring" sound. I was sitting at a stop light a couple days ago, went to take off and there was a loud pop or bang in the front of the truck. Pulled over at a gas station, checked the CVs, brakes, everything I could look at and didn't see any problems. I drove it home without any other problems. I drove to work the next day and noticed that my brakes were feeling a bit soft and the pedal traveled further to stop the truck. This weekend, I pulled the wheels, checked the pads and shoes, not problems. No leaky calipers or wheel cylinders. It has been warm the past couple days and I drove to work with the windows down. I noticed that there was a bit of a high-pitched scraping sound coming from the front passenger wheel at low speeds and when I turned left and put the weight of the truck on it. Bingo, wheel bearing.

Checked O'Reilly's and got a Precision brand hub assembly, part number 515040. This way I could rebuild my other hub assembly and have it for a spare.

Here is what has to be done:

Remove the wheel and tire.


Don't worry about removing the caliper, just remove the caliper and bracket together. First you remove the brake line bracket (lower bolt).



Then remove the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. You can see I had already backed out the lower bolt a little bit.



Use a bungee cord or wire or whatever to tie up the caliper so it doesn't hang on the line.



Next, remove the rotor. For me, this wasn't bad. I just gave it a smack near the center with a hammer and it popped off. For you guys in the north with some rust, you may need to use a bolt in the threaded holes in the rotor to push the rotor off the hub.



Now you can use a screwdriver to pry off the hub dust cover which will reveal the CV nut, retainer and cotter pin.



Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin.



The retainer will pretty much just fall off after you remove the cotter.



Now, you have to remove the CV nut. It's torqued down pretty tight and I had to use my impact to get it off. It takes a 36mm socket.



Nut removed.



Now you have to loosen the 4 bolts holding the hub on the truck.



Use a hammer and smack it on the sides, back and forth, to work it off of the truck. The 4 bolts will not slide all the way off, they will be captured by the hub.

Hub removed.



Backside of the assembly. You can see all the dust from the worn bearing.



Use a press to remove the outer bearing. The faulty bearing:



The missing roller was in the cage when I took it out, it just fell out. The best way to remove the inner bearing is to remove the cage and rollers first, then use a die grinder to cut a diagonal line across the race. This way, you get a larger cut across the bearing before you hit the hub or the shaft. Then you just take a cold chisel and give it a smack in the cut to make it break off or spread open enough to slide off.



The old oil seal:



The new seal from Toyota:



The new hub bearing assembly:



Put the new seal on the bearing assembly. It's a bit tight, so take your time not to damage it.



Use a press to install the bearing assembly onto the hub. Make sure you have your mounting bolts in the bearing assembly before you press it onto the hub.



Assembled hub:



Now all that is left is the re-assembly. Re-install the rotor dust shield and hub assembly. I accidentally knocked one of my wheel studs out.



Then put your CV nut, retainer and cotter back on (along with missing wheel stud).



Re-install your caliper and brake line brackets.



Put your wheel and tire back on and you are ready to go until it breaks again!
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Last edited by RU55ELL; 01-15-2014 at 08:09 AM.
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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 06:55 PM
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Very nice writeup, thanks!

Thad
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 08:54 PM
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I have 230,000 and counting on my original bearings. Just thought Id rub it in.

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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
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I have 230,000 and counting on my original bearings. Just thought Id rub it in.
I hate you

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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:31 PM
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Man I got to do this sometime in the next week or so. Crazy that you posted this today. Subscribed
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:32 PM
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Man I got to do this sometime in the next week or so. Crazy that you posted this today. Subscribed
u do know this is only 05 and up right?

Never make your passion your occupation. it will loose it's luster and become work. that's why i never wanted to become a gynecologist!
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:37 PM
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Nope sure didn't.
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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on 95.5 to 04 u just take the whole spindle off(separate upper arm and lower bj) and take it to a shop with a 50 ton press and ur good to go

Never make your passion your occupation. it will loose it's luster and become work. that's why i never wanted to become a gynecologist!
1997 toyota 4 runner. lc coils and donahoe coils goin on soon with 255 75 17 brk km's on titan rims
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Complete and updated post #1 with pics and details.

Complaining is expressing dissatisfaction with a circumstance that is not wrong and about which I'm doing nothing to correct.
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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-22-2010, 03:27 PM
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great write up thanks..............
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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-23-2010, 02:17 PM
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Great write up! Can this be done with a 12-ton press?

2006 ToyComa V6, Auto, 4x4, TRD, Dbl Cab, 265/75/16 Toyo AT's
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-24-2010, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Should be able to. Mine weren't hard at all to get out.

Complaining is expressing dissatisfaction with a circumstance that is not wrong and about which I'm doing nothing to correct.
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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 08:10 AM
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Nice write up. How many miles on your truck? Its amazing at how dry the failed bearing looks. I would say it has been bad for some time, the roller just finally popped. Do you do a lot of water crossing?
Thanks, Cam-shaft
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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Just rolled 76K on the odometer. Needless to say, I wasn't a happy camper. The only water/mud it has ever seen is when I wheeled in Arkansas over Halloween. Other than that, it's my daily driver. I don't wheel it much. I'm trying to find the equivalent bearing with a steel cage.

Complaining is expressing dissatisfaction with a circumstance that is not wrong and about which I'm doing nothing to correct.
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it *looks* like Timken makes them with steel cages, but I'm not absolutely sure. I wish I would have found out before I did mine.

Complaining is expressing dissatisfaction with a circumstance that is not wrong and about which I'm doing nothing to correct.
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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 03:26 PM
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That is pretty low miles for failure especially if you have not drove through a bunch of water. Good call on doing a new hub assembly then rebuild the old for a back up. That is how I like to do things. Later, Cam-shaft.
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-26-2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam-shaft View Post
That is pretty low miles for failure especially if you have not drove through a bunch of water. Good call on doing a new hub assembly then rebuild the old for a back up. That is how I like to do things. Later, Cam-shaft.
Yea, thats what I do. Gotta change those damn things about every 15K sometimes less

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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-27-2010, 09:26 AM
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Good job! Vote for STICKY

Sway-bars are like condoms. Its safer with it on, but it feels way better with it off
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 12-29-2010, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Good job! Vote for STICKY
That was the purpose.

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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 10:00 AM
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Great write up.
Small question though. I thought the CV nut was 35 mm, not 36 mm as written in the article. I've noticed you can't buy those sockets just anywhere and I haven't needed it yet but I wanted to have one for the inevitable time of when I do need one. Of course, I'll order a spare CV axle too.

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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdTRD View Post
Great write up.
Small question though. I thought the CV nut was 35 mm, not 36 mm as written in the article. I've noticed you can't buy those sockets just anywhere and I haven't needed it yet but I wanted to have one for the inevitable time of when I do need one. Of course, I'll order a spare CV axle too.
May be. Mine wasn't super sloppy on the nut or anything but it could be 35 instead of 36.

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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 11:15 AM
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Thanks. I can't seem to ever get a definitive answer on that question. I've even heard a 1 3/8" socket works fine. Oh well.

I see you're in Katy. Do you know Samster and some of the other guys down there? I know they're on other wheeling sites. I assume they're on here too.

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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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I don't know them personally but know of them and thru PMs.

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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 11:20 AM
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Thanks. I can't seem to ever get a definitive answer on that question. I've even heard a 1 3/8" socket works fine. Oh well.

I see you're in Katy. Do you know Samster and some of the other guys down there? I know they're on other wheeling sites. I assume they're on here too.
Sams not on here I don't think. Don't use the 1 3/8 if you can avoid it. The 35mm socket is cheap at any auto parts store and won't gaul up the end of the axle nut

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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdTRD View Post
Great write up.
Small question though. I thought the CV nut was 35 mm, not 36 mm as written in the article. I've noticed you can't buy those sockets just anywhere and I haven't needed it yet but I wanted to have one for the inevitable time of when I do need one. Of course, I'll order a spare CV axle too.
Oreilly Auto has 1/2 drive deep well chromo in 35mm and 36mm under the brand "Proformance Tool" hanging in there tool section.

I have one I bought mine for a honda accord v6 cv nut.
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:22 AM
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FYI Re: taking your truck to a shop

took my truck to a shop for my bearings (no press in my shop as of yet) the shop calls 2 days later saying they cant get the bearing assy off the hub.

had to take the bearings to the local machine shop to get em cut out (didn't even wanna try this one, thought about it, have the tools...didn't wanna risk the damage to my hubs) $80 (yes thats eighty total for both bearings) and i had em together and ready for the truck.

long story short. you can take them to your local machinist and have em cut out, cheap, and in about a day (less if they arent busy, more if they are) without the heart ache of trying to mount the hubs and bearings on a press, those ears on the bearing are a royal pain to get on the press, neither the mechanic nor the machinist could get them on a press.

so DIY untill you get to the bearings.
take em to the machinst
give him(her) $80 of your hard earned money
they em out and youre ready to go!

but DO NOT give another mechanic OR the stealer the job.

the book prices out bearings at about 813 dollars at a shop (seems to be the average from what ive checked out)

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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 01-31-2011, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for the write up. So how often do you have to do the maintenance on these bearings? Do you just drive them until they start to make noise?? Or do your recommend an interval?
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:35 PM
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wait till you see what mine look like...got em pressed apart and 52 pickup of wheel bearings came out...i got about 45000 miles on mine...i think the guy that replaced my cv over-torqued the hub nut, considering it was just apart 3 months ago and i had to heat that nut up so hot to get it off if i sneezed it would have dissapeared.....what is the torque for that? i dont have a manual or anything for my toyota yet...ill put a pic of the old ones on here once i get done puttin it back together
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 03:53 PM
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i waited a little too long haha
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:42 PM
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Holly mierda dude!

At 45k it looks like that? or did you tear it up during the disassembly process? I barely got 34453 on my 07. This is bullsheetz. Toyota QA has gone past the septic tank.

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