I need some info and feed back on replacing 87 4runner OEM auto hubs. I'm looking at going with Warn Hubs. Is it a basic swap or is there more parts involed than just the hubs? Any advice on where to get hubs and parts would be helpful. I live in nor-cal. thanks Wil
If you don't mind i'd like to add on to that question. Can I use any Tacoma's manual hubs and swap them out for my ADD taco? I mean take the spindles, cv's, and hub assembly from the manual taco and swap them on mine. Is that all I need?
I know all about that kit.....but I know people have done conversions using tacos that have manual hubs from the factory. I'm wanting to swap the aisin hubs for mine.....
I need some info and feed back on replacing 87 4runner OEM auto hubs. I'm looking at going with Warn Hubs. Is it a basic swap or is there more parts involed than just the hubs? Any advice on where to get hubs and parts would be helpful. I live in nor-cal. thanks Wil
If the 4runner front end is the same as the trucks, then yes its a simple swap. Toyota used a splined end cap on the ADD models that basically was like having a hub locked all the time. All you had to do was remove the cap, and install your new hub and you were good to go. I so wish Toyota continued this with the Tacomas, life would be so much easier...and cheaper.
Taco to taco yes if you're trying to convert an ADD truck to manual hubs. If you're tring to go the other way you have to change part of the axle half shaft( the add actuator part) that is part of the diff. When you say spindle you really want to swap the entire knuckle otherwise the press work is a real bitch to do.
Taco to taco yes if you're trying to convert an ADD truck to manual hubs. If you're tring to go the other way you have to change part of the axle half shaft( the add actuator part) that is part of the diff. When you say spindle you really want to swap the entire knuckle otherwise the press work is a real bitch to do.
Ok so I need the whole spindle assembly , cv's , and the hubs from another taco?
Just wondering because people keep parting there trucks out on here and i'm wondering what exactly i need to buy. So since i'm going add to manual i dont have to do anything with the add actuator part?
Yeah, the bit with the ball joints, the axle and the hubs. However, it best thing to do is just get an ARB locker if that is why you want the hubs. If it's to lift higher, that is bad too because you're much more prone to roll overn an IFS truck with a lot of lift.
Yeah, the bit with the ball joints, the axle and the hubs. However, it best thing to do is just get an ARB locker if that is why you want the hubs. If it's to lift higher, that is bad too because you're much more prone to roll overn an IFS truck with a lot of lift.
I'm only lifting my truck 3inches....well + 1inch body....but I just wanted to do the swap....in case i did break a cv i'd be able to drive home if i didn't have a spare......cv's wouldn't be spinning while i'm driving ( well when i disconnect them after wheelin) I would need manual hubs with a locker right? i'm still a newb to most of this stuff.
If the 4runner front end is the same as the trucks, then yes its a simple swap. Toyota used a splined end cap on the ADD models that basically was like having a hub locked all the time. All you had to do was remove the cap, and install your new hub and you were good to go. I so wish Toyota continued this with the Tacomas, life would be so much easier...and cheaper.
My hubs are Auto Locks which are different from ADD in that they have a spring & clutches. This is what concerns me. I hope some one has made this change and can help me out ?
thanks Wil
No you don't have to have manual hubs with a locker. What happens with an automatic locker like a Lockrite is that the front driveshaft will spin all the time because the driver’s side axle spins the front diff all the time. The locker will then cause the front drive shaft to spin. I didn't want that to happen so I did a manual hub conversion because I had too as the only locker for the Tacoma front diff at the time was the Lockrite automatic locker. It was not an easy mod or cheap mod to do because of the press work and parts required if you need to press the spindle, hub and wheel bearing apart out of your knuckle assembly. It is not trivial press work, one of mine took 30 tons before the wheel bearing assembly finally exploded and came free, the other side took 25 tons before it let go.
Since then, ARB has come out with a selectable locker. In my opinion, that is the best way to go if you intend to stay IFS for any significant period or time. With the selectable locker, you do not really need manual hubs as it is a fully open diff just like stock when the locker is switched off. A selectable is an all round better option anyway especially for a front axle and it is stronger too.
BTW you also want to be aware that the manual hub outer axle ends are a little weaker than the ADD axles. If you are going to wheel any IFS rig very aggressively, I suggest you always carry at least one spare CV axle anytime you are out on the trail. They are fairly easy to break but are easy to change out on the trail.
sorry I didn't make myself clear; I'm talking about the hubs at the wheel , like Warn hubs. I know all about lockers and when I can I'll get them(after some O.T.) ,but until than I need to get my Hubs to ingauge the front wheels.
thanks Wil
Thanks for the help . I found what I needed. Good site, Thanks again Wil
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