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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation DOM vs Chromo?

The shop where I will be getting my LT installed next week runs DOM on everything. He get's it for 2 bucks a foot, as where chromo is over 6 a foot. I think DOM will be fine for me if i stick with the 1 3/4". Unless someone has had bad experiences with DOM bending too easily.

What is everyone running for there bumpers, bed, and roll cages?

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:13 AM
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DOM is plenty if not overkill for bumpers and even a cage for most people. HREW or mild steel will be fine for bumpers. If it makes you feel safer use DOM for a cage. Also consider its not just the type Chromo or DOM but the diameter and wall thickness that matters as well.

Chromo is good for trying to keep the weight down in a race application.
Or if you just have a lot of money to burn and wish to have some bragging rights.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:34 AM
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It isn't something to be too concerned about. You probably know that many people use mild and/or DOM (which isn't a LOT better, but yes it is). Most people would probably run .120 wall 1.5" or 1.75" or at least it is common. If your worried in a cage, just add some more braces.

For most people, chromoly in a cage isn't quite worth the price when you can overbuild with a lower grade.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:42 AM
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Unless you'll be beating the truck severely, you don't need chromoly tubing. Will the truck actually be run in the desert or just driven on the street?

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasquintanas
The shop where I will be getting my LT installed next week runs DOM on everything. He get's it for 2 bucks a foot, as where chromo is over 6 a foot. I think DOM will be fine for me if i stick with the 1 3/4". Unless someone has had bad experiences with DOM bending too easily.

What is everyone running for there bumpers, bed, and roll cages?

Cheers!
Dom for 2.00 a foot? That's seems a little fishy?

By the way that is plenty strong enough for what your doing!
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb77DEMELLO
Dom for 2.00 a foot? That's seems a little fishy?

By the way that is plenty strong enough for what your doing!
Yeah supposedly it's all he buys so he buys a lot.

Let me know when you're ready for that TV Jason!

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 01:15 AM
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DOM wolud work fine but thats wayyyyyyyyyy to cheap. I usually chromo everhting I can. Mainly I use DOM for everything but for inner sleeves usually use the chromo just to be sure.Plus, you don't want chromo bumpers because you'll beat them up iun the desrt. Soryr about the spelling little late in the night and I've been doing some drinking I won't lie to you
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Um yeah...That's the place with no regular streets right? Kinda bumpy?

I just wanted to know what everyone else was running, and it never hurts to b sure about something when your spending a lot of money on it.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb77DEMELLO
Dom for 2.00 a foot? That's seems a little fishy?

Shoot Sch40 is about $25 for a 21' stick of 1.5" (which makes it 1.20? a foot). Yea $2 a foot is not right at all... no matter how much in bulk

My 2 cents = 1 peso
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasquintanas
Um yeah...That's the place with no regular streets right? Kinda bumpy?

I just wanted to know what everyone else was running, and it never hurts to b sure about something when your spending a lot of money on it.
Unless you're racing DOM does the trick sorry wasn't trying to be a prick or anything, but it never hurts to be sure I suppose. Also, since it's cheaper once your front and rear are all nerfed up it's not as expensive to replace. And I dunno where you're buying that DOM from but $2 a foot is free! That stuff is usually $5-$6 and chromo is usually about $8-$9 a foot. Interesting. Are you caging it bumper to bumper or what EXACTLY are you using it for besides bumpers?
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 04:31 PM
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Wow, I sure am glad that my cagework was finished before the increase in price...my whole truck is 4130 front to back...1.75" for the cab cage and 1.5" everywhere else.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 04:43 PM
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that 1.75" has to be taking up soooo much room in there, did you pad it all up just to be safe?
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12Tweeter12
Unless you're racing DOM does the trick sorry wasn't trying to be a prick or anything, but it never hurts to be sure I suppose. Also, since it's cheaper once your front and rear are all nerfed up it's not as expensive to replace. And I dunno where you're buying that DOM from but $2 a foot is free! That stuff is usually $5-$6 and chromo is usually about $8-$9 a foot. Interesting. Are you caging it bumper to bumper or what EXACTLY are you using it for besides bumpers?
Good to see you sober now.

Anywho, i was pretty much set on DOM the whole time just wanted feedback. The tube is for my bedcage and front bumper, no roll cage yet, although i'll prolly do DOM when i get around to that next year. Just cause he said 2 bucks doesn't mean that he's right--i was merely making the price comparison to 4130 and whether it is worth the extra dollars.

I'll let you know how everything turns out in a few weeks when it's done. We have a Pismo trip happening 4/1-2 if any of you guys are interested.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 04:55 PM
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Haha thanks, yea I'm at work, and as much as I'd like to I can't drink here...DOM should be fine as well as it is built properly. Who's doing the build/install? Please don't say Desert Strike...
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12Tweeter12
Haha thanks, yea I'm at work, and as much as I'd like to I can't drink here...DOM should be fine as well as it is built properly. Who's doing the build/install? Please don't say Desert Strike...
Boneyard Fab in Ventura. I have been calling around the last 2 months on prices between Demello, DMZ, and Boneyard. Boneyard only does prerunners and the guy there is a friend of a friend.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 09:48 PM
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i built my whole truck front to back in chromoly, but the only reason i did that is because i work for a steel yard and can get a good deal on it.but if i was not able to get a good deal i would have used dom that is pleanty strong for cages you can even used mild if you design it right.use dom that will work out just fine for you.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2006, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom27
Wow, I sure am glad that my cagework was finished before the increase in price...my whole truck is 4130 front to back...1.75" for the cab cage and 1.5" everywhere else.
Man, Chris...with all the tubing in your truck, that cage would cost as much as it weighs!!! You did get lucky on the cost increase.... I can't get 1.5" 4130 for under $6.50 ft. , even if I buy 600ft. at a time. That price for DOM sounds fishy to me, too. It is probably HREW, which most label as DOM. Even the steel shops pass it off as that. You have to ask for 1020 seamless. And good luck in San Felipe!!!! Let's hope it holds together, so you can go after that Blue C and Camburg money in MORE!!!
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom27
Wow, I sure am glad that my cagework was finished before the increase in price...my whole truck is 4130 front to back...1.75" for the cab cage and 1.5" everywhere else.
Chris, I almost have My Baja Bug done, I extended it to a 105 wb, and well we started from scratch. It will be my New toy once i am done. We are we going to ride at Glamis Again?

I am going to test it out in Barstow in a few weeks when it is done, along with my buddies Class 10 buggy.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 12:51 AM
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DOM is what i am using for my Baja Bug. I think its strong enough for wat i need.

Last edited by trd2001; 02-24-2006 at 12:54 AM.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojodiablo
Man, Chris...with all the tubing in your truck, that cage would cost as much as it weighs!!! You did get lucky on the cost increase.... I can't get 1.5" 4130 for under $6.50 ft. , even if I buy 600ft. at a time. That price for DOM sounds fishy to me, too. It is probably HREW, which most label as DOM. Even the steel shops pass it off as that. You have to ask for 1020 seamless. And good luck in San Felipe!!!! Let's hope it holds together, so you can go after that Blue C and Camburg money in MORE!!!

I got my 1.75" 4130 for about $3.50 ft 2 yrs ago. We will need the luck in San Felipe, thanks.
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by trd2001
Chris, I almost have My Baja Bug done, I extended it to a 105 wb, and well we started from scratch. It will be my New toy once i am done. We are we going to ride at Glamis Again?

I am going to test it out in Barstow in a few weeks when it is done, along with my buddies Class 10 buggy.

Hey David, that is awesome...baja bugs are a lot of fun and if you need some help/ideas I can refer you to the Falcon Rulo who knows his stuff when it comes to class 5's. Me & Greg were in Glamis last weekend & it was perfect conditions in the dunes. Me, Tommy & Jerry are going to San Felipe this weekend to prerun the race course. talk to you later
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prerunnerguy
i built my whole truck front to back in chromoly, but the only reason i did that is because i work for a steel yard and can get a good deal on it.but if i was not able to get a good deal i would have used dom that is pleanty strong for cages you can even used mild if you design it right.use dom that will work out just fine for you.

Since we are on the topic and you work at a steel yard...you may know the answer to this.

I've read several books by Carroll Smith. In each title he speaks briefly about metalurgy, and material selection. Chromoly is a great material when used correctly (TIG welded, then heat treated correctly) however when exposed to high heat, and not stress relieved it can be a less effective choice than a standard high grade mild steel.

Have any knowledge on this?

-Drew

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shroom27
Hey David, that is awesome...baja bugs are a lot of fun and if you need some help/ideas I can refer you to the Falcon Rulo who knows his stuff when it comes to class 5's. Me & Greg were in Glamis last weekend & it was perfect conditions in the dunes. Me, Tommy & Jerry are going to San Felipe this weekend to prerun the race course. talk to you later
cool bro, I cant get time off work, and my knee is still phucked up from my last riding trip. Have a beer or to for me

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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLOWNYOTA
Since we are on the topic and you work at a steel yard...you may know the answer to this.

I've read several books by Carroll Smith. In each title he speaks briefly about metalurgy, and material selection. Chromoly is a great material when used correctly (TIG welded, then heat treated correctly) however when exposed to high heat, and not stress relieved it can be a less effective choice than a standard high grade mild steel.

Have any knowledge on this?

-Drew
I don't know how old you are, but back in the 70's, they started to make BMX bikes out of chromo. The frames failed left and right..... especially the original Mongoose frames. I broke 3 of them in only a few months. Then, I got a Cooks Bros. frame. It was even lighter, and I thought for sure I would break it in half in no time. But Gary Cook had it right, and he explained it to me.#1. He used thin material, but he stress relieved it. 2. He used lots of big gussets. The deal is, to get enough surface area in the welds to spread the load, and to keep the parts together. 3. He used er70 rod, a basically mild steel filler. It gives the welds a little flex, rather than just cracking. Modern BMX bikes carry this tech to a new degree. They use huge main tubes on the bikes-1.75" and as much as 2.25" tube. Also, they use oval tube, which has very good resistance to flex. But, the tube is very thin, so they actually save weight while gaining strength. Back in the 70's, they used 1"x.083 for frame tube. Now, they use 2"x. 065 . The frames are very strong. And, still acceptably light. Or, to look at SCORE rules for trucks like ours- 1.65"x.120 dom, HREW OR....1.75x.095 4130. There is no practical way to heat treat an entire truck chassis, so the best bet is to not quench welds, use gussets where you can... small gussets are fine, when done right, and if you can, post heat a weld for a few seconds before letting it cool. But that takes about 10 hands, and tons of setup. Better to just do a good job welding, and don't worry too much about it.
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