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Old 04-18-2010, 03:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need a new front skid, anyone?

I had a little mishap yesterday, and need a new front skid. Something a little tougher than my downey skid, preferably. Anyone want to make me one or point me in the right direction?

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Old 04-18-2010, 07:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Mixing lots of beer and white castles might just give you a free rear skid...

Sorry, had to be said by someone.

BTW, nice wound your truck has there! What did you do?
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Old 04-18-2010, 08:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I pulled a Jeep out...

no, really, I was backing into the mudhole to pull this cj5 out( 289 V8, 5 speed, etc...), and I guess it caught a rock or something? Anyways, next thing I know, I am clearancing the center of the "pit" for all of the other trucks with my front skidplate.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Greg's got a few 4x8 sheets of 3/16"...he may be of some assistance...
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Already ordered and paid for the armortech one...1/4inch thick, all hardware is recessed, etc...
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I knew that too....duh

Coming down next week for an interview :fingerscrossed:
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hope it goes good...

If you let me know when you might be available( day and time), I might be able to schedule my work to have some time off if you wanted to meet up.
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^^New thread in OT
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:36 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrotter View Post
Already ordered and paid for the armortech one...1/4inch thick, all hardware is recessed, etc...
holy mother of jesus! 1/4" thick

IMHO, skid plate is not something "thicker is better". when heavy impact happens, you want something to "give", not to "transfer" the force on to your frame/drivetrain, etc.

back on your Downey skid, if it's not unbolted and bent, your crossmember could be gone causing more expensive damages. same reason Nascar uses regular DOM tubing to build their frames, not Chromoly. when a car hits the wall, DOM is softer, it will bend, absorb the energy. chromoly is much stronger, but because of that, it will transfer the impact to other part of the frame, so the driver.

plus, that thing's gotta be 100+lbs.
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Old 05-17-2010, 07:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Although I do agree with your comment about thicker is not always best in this situation. And everyone knows I tend to lean to the side of "overkill" for most areas. I do slightly disagree with your assement of 1/4" being too thick.

I further agree that you want some "flex" in the skid plate which a piece of flat 1/4" wil provide over the distance we are talking about for the skids. If it was a smaller area or braced then yes it may be too much.

I have seen lesser metal rip away like aluminum cans in the Texas rocks. so I too am leary of using 1/8" or less. But I guess for pre-running or high speed stuff where you are more weight concious than rock crawlers. 1/8" makes more sense.

Too me, 1/4" is about the best "happy medium" as you can get. It has the strength needed, yet not as heavy or ridgid as other metals. my gas tank cradle is heavy as crap since I used 3" angle iron as the skelton and 3/8" plate for the skid, but I knew mounting it where it is would eventually take some HEAVY hits. I also did not want my taco victum of the "pinto effect" where the gas tanks would explode in a rear end collision.

As for wanting to bend/deflect to absorb the impact, I think regardless of using 1/4" or thicker, the impact will first be felt in the skid plate, but ultimately transferred through the chassis/frame wouldn't it? I know my truck has taken some "heavy" hits since I have installed the roll cage, and regardless of where I make contact, the kinetic energy get's transferred thoughout the entire truck. I have actually had my hand on the driver's "A" pillar bar of the cage, taken a fall/hit on the rear passenger frame rail and felt the strong "vibration" or tremor all the way on that "A" pillar bar.

But this is a great discussion. and by no means am I disputing what you are saying. I just have a few different angles of thought on the subject.
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remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Mines 3/16" and getting bent up pretty good thus far, but it is still holding up. I patterned it after the budbuilt skid.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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For a while the trend in Rock crawling competition was to build your skid or belly pan out of the same material they use for cutting boards. very light weight and it had deflection ability to absorb some of the shock.

I thought about building some out of that material, but it is expensive for one reason, and I got in trouble with Momma Bear by breaking a piece of her cutting board with my bare hands. when I was doing my test on the material in her kitchen
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:42 AM   #13 (permalink)
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the key is how he broke the skid. without knowing what actually happened, only from his picture, for sure it was broken while the truck was going in reverse, I'm guessing either he's being towed out or towing someone out of a mud hole, then he hit some lugs or rocks underneath. imagine, what could happen IF the skid didn't come unbuttoned and fold up.

that's why I like the Bud Built skid, the rear section is bent upwards, it rides like a flat boat hull, it will glide over junks not catching.

all in all, 3/16" isn't a wimp sheet of steel, replacing a skid plate is whole lot cheaper than fixing your driveline, tranny mount, crossmember stuff.

there are many many ways to add strength to that 3/16 plate. for starters, weld few 3/4" angle steel strips can do the trick in the matter of few minutes.

adding a piece of 3" to the end and flare up with a 30 some degree angle well make it 3-dimensional thus makes it lesser tend to bend also rides over junks better.

remember, unless you can change your mounting bolts to bigger ones, it will come unbuttoned no matter 3/16" or 1/4" thick.

your old skid is still fixable. don't throw it away.
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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the one I ordered is the Armortech skid. At the rear, it is angled upwards, which should prevent what happened here. As best I can tell, I caught it on something when I backed into a mudhole to pull out a Jeep. With the way the edges are made on the new skid, I shouldn't be peeling this one back.
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear View Post
...and I got in trouble with Momma Bear by breaking a piece of her cutting board with my bare hands. when I was doing my test on the material in her kitchen
Why does that make me think of "Tim the Tool Man Taylor" everytime I read it?

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Old 05-20-2010, 06:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Why does that make me think of "Tim the Tool Man Taylor" everytime I read it?

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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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