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Old 08-15-2007, 03:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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My new CBI sliders

are on their way. Im too damn lazy to search all the threads on the best way to finish them. Hopefully I'll get them tomorrow so I can take them down south to a paint booth at my companies corporate HQ and finish em right... if not I'll have to use some sort of rattle can product.

Can you guys recommend the best thing to use to prime, seal, finish em either spray through a gun or rattle can? Or should I take them to a rhino coat place? Im not a fan of powder coat since its expensive and it WILL get scratched off almost immediately.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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whatever you do…do not use a spray on liner material. I have seen other use it and once it chips (which the sliders should get chips if used right) the material peels off in larger chunks!

Do not powerder coat or even spend the time or money on the application.

Best way to paint them is to get a decent "ectching" primer and prime them. Then select a matchable (read as not a cheapo brand but a popular brand) color and brand and rattle can them!

I used to keep mine painted and purity. and that is the best advice I can give you! Mine are about due for a fresh coat in fact, might just have to do it here soon myself.

Just don't waste the money on any "high cost, high quality" finishes, you are just going to knock it off anyway. I wouldn't even waste the gas money to drive across town to the paint booth. Just suspend them from a tree in the back yard if available and paint them there!

When you have them on the truck, and want to repaint them, hit me up for advice. I know ways of repainting them without having to take them off the truck!
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Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I see that you have provided detailed info on this in several threads.

It's the name brands I was after that I didn't want to search for lol.


I found a few... mill spec, duplicolor. When ya go to home despot and ask for good etching primer they look at you like they are stoned (probably because they are) so i need to know before hand exactly what to get. Seems to me there was a high build zink rich etching primer I used to use for stuff like this but I cant find it anymore.

I think I will go back to my days of selling porter paints and use some industrial grade enamels cut with lacquer. I know their products backwards and forwards but they require a spray booth and a few days to do it. I will have one day and a 2 hour one way drive to get to my booth.
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here's how I did mine -
Lets see your wonderful sliders

I'm happy with how they came out.
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry! I didn't realize (read as being dumb) you were looking for brands!

On the etching primer, I usually just use the type they sell at Vato Zone.

on the brand of rattle can paint, I have had the best luck with Rustoleum hammerite paint! If you really wanted a tough finish for a bit more coin, go to lowes or home depot and look for appliance epoxy paint. That has a really hard finish to it, down side only comes in ivory, white or black. let it dry/bake in the sun for a few hours and it is almost scratch resistant!

Again, I wouldn't spend the time to go to the spray booth to do the job. I am pretty sure you are like me when I first started wheel'n. Everytime I got off the trail the first thing I did was wash the truck and touch up all the paint scratches on the sliders! For that situation, you are going to want something that will be easy and quick. stay with a conventional rattle can and call it a day! Otherwise you are going to have to be running back and forth, stocking up on paint and after a while you are going to get sick of the process!

Oh! one more paint suggestion. I used this on my bumper and floor board. Auto Zone has a DIY bed liner paint. It comes in a spray can. It does not do very good in beds, but holds up pretty good for bumpers/sliders etc. I cant remember the brand name. But like I said I used it on my bumper and for touch ups, it blends back together pretty good! I normally do the touch up in my driveway without even masking off other parts of the truck.

It is the only one other than Herculiner that Auto Zone sells, comes in a blue can if I remember right!

Good luck, I am off to the parking lot otherwise known as the drive home!

I'll try and pick up on this later this evening though.
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I like Rust-o-leum stuff. They make an etching primer in their industrial strength line, although I'm not really sure how clear that information is labeled on the can. They just call it primer for bare steel, but it will be in a silver can like the other industrial colors. You can get it in grey or that rust color. Also, Duplicolor sells an etching primer that is quite nice. It is really easy to spray on amd it leaves a nice finish. I used the duplicolor on my old All-Pro bumper and the Rustoleum on my sliders. Both are pretty good.

Like I said, I like rustoleum pretty good and am a big fan of the Hammered finsh line of paints from them. My sliders are done in the Hammered black. But, recently I have been using the industrial strength flat black from rustoleum and I must say it leaves a very strong finish and goes on pretty well, too. But, if you aren't good with a spray paint can, I'd suggest the hammered stuff b/c it is self-leveling and will cover a lot of errors.
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks good, same paint I was mentioning. I used it on mine as well! At least the last go round of painting them!
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good info there Jamie!

maybe that is why I like the hammerite as well…it covers up my screw ups! LOL
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks guys.

BTW I love my truck but I still havent washed off the mud from the trip I went on with you guys. I did dent the bed unfortunately when I went wheeling here locally with the jeep guys. Kinda pissed me off since I knew I shouldnt have followed those nuts. They try to break stuff lol. I like my truck like I like my women, dirty. Now my cars are spotless and look brand new for a 10 year old and a 14 year old car.

Amps thread was the one I couldnt find again for some reason. they didnt have that primer at the two places I went. I'll try the auto zone like bear suggested.

Me and rattle can are old enemies. I'm pretty good with a cup gun. I figure I'll go with bears advice and rattle can everything for easy touch up in the future. Hopefully they will arrive Friday.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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They just call it primer for bare steel, but it will be in a silver can like the other industrial colors.
Cool. Now Im good to go. I was looking for a can that said etching or zink rich. thanks
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well good luck with everything. If you need some advice on easy touch up, later on down the road let me know.

I will tell you though, a card board box and masking tape will soon become your "best friends" Oh and their cousin mr. postal packaging paper roll will also drop by from time to time!
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I did dent the bed unfortunately when I went wheeling here locally with the jeep guys. Kinda pissed me off since I knew I shouldnt have followed those nuts. They try to break stuff lol.

Oh man, I've been there. I feel for you. I tried to follow some Jeep guys at Turkey Bay this spring and this is what it got me.

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Old 08-16-2007, 09:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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most of my body damage has come from trying to follow Dave in his jeep through some tight trails!

should be okay after I get cub #2's FJ finished then I will be able to go where even the jeeps won't be able to.ha ha
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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see the problem is y'all are trying to follow Jeeps.........make them follow you and find some steep ledges where you can take advantage of your wheelbase........and then watch them flip over backward.
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^ that's pretty funny.
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:03 AM   #16 (permalink)
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^ that's pretty funny.
Don't encourage him!
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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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Old 08-16-2007, 10:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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It is funny..........you should try it sometime.
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Oh man, I've been there. I feel for you. I tried to follow some Jeep guys at Turkey Bay this spring and this is what it got me.

i got a similar dent when a guy had to 'tackle' my truck to keep it away from a tree....luckily i was able to just reach in and pop it out.
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:59 PM   #19 (permalink)
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the bed in front of the rear tire is pushed up on mine. Not so bad that you can really see it from the side but its buckled inside the wheel well so I can see. More of the principle of the thing than anything. had my sliders ft correctly it wouldnt have happened. Had I been a better driver it wouldnt have happened. Had I been smart enough not to follow them through tight turns etc... you get the pic. Some dents and dings are battle scars to enjoy... some make ya annoyed.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:04 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I don't have a single dent in my truck that has been caused my wheeling........well except for the gas tank LOL.

I have been really lucky.
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Old 08-16-2007, 05:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I don't have a single dent in my truck that has been caused my wheeling........well except for the gas tank LOL.

I have been really lucky.
Trust me you should be very happy with your rear bumper after rail bed. I have a trashed quarter panel on the drivers side back by the tail light. So yeah a rear bumper with wrap around sides could save some headaches as well. You will see tons of our trucks with banged up beds. Sliders are great though and have saved my rockers and doors a couple of times.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:10 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I Know Eric!!!

I felt that thing hit the rock and I just cringed in my seat and hammered down.......but the bumpe held tough!!!!
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Old 08-19-2007, 10:21 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Bump for pics...
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:53 PM   #24 (permalink)
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well they came in finally and Im pleased with them so far. The u-brackets are poorly made imo. He put them corner to corner and then filled in the open section with weld. One would think it would be easy to get a cast uchannel of this size or fairly close. Or, the two pieces could be butted together and then joined. No biggie, they are just for support not to bare a load. The piping welds are first rate. Very few pin holes and the sliders look pretty good overall.

The painting is taking for ever. Paint most of it. Let it dry. Paint the rest. Let it dry. Second coat of primer. Now I have to start the finish coat. But, I have fumigated myself, acid catalyzed my lungs with etching primer, and dry sprayed my whole offices warehouse so now I am in trouble. I wore my good echo hiking boots and the dry spray etched onto them so Im pretty sad that they are now dusted white. These boots have been through a lot with me. :cry: It was a sad sad day when I retired their predecessors. Those boots had been to 5 countries with me and had dirt in em from the great wall of China and manchu pichu among other places! I still have em on a shelf. lol A good pair of boots is better then a......... well better than a lot of stuff. SO anyway I need to figure out how to get the over spray off of em. Too bad I cant clay bar them lol

Like a fool I didnt wear a respirator today. I sell the dam things I should have been smarter, oh well. I'll get some pics up soon as now they are white with primer so they wioll be easier to see.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I don't have a good pic of my brackets but they are welded with the L being one piece then the backing plate is weld at the end. The weld area looks like a upside down T with welds on both sides. The frame width is slightly different from front to back I think that is why that are welded vs a piece of C channel.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:53 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Mine (CBI's) are the same way (welded in the gap), but only on the front bracket @ ~120*. And they use what looks like bent plate/fb for the other brackets. Are your brackets all welded?



Other brackets
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:56 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Yep all mine are welded together. You can kind of make things out in this pic.




This is on a 05 + isn't it. disregard me mine are for 04 and older.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:01 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yes, 05+. I'm wondering if Keynote's are all welded instead of bent plate or flat bar.

Those are still some awesome sliders, man. CBI, right?

Matter of fact, mine look just like that sans the kick-out and the boxed brackets.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:06 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah they are CBI bolt-on hoop sliders. They work great is all I can say about them.

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Old 08-23-2007, 06:43 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Yeah, I like em, too. I just wish mine were about 3" longer in the rear. I'm anxious to see this new set of Keynote's b/c it looks like they have been redesigned and are longer now.
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