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Idler pulley rebuild

44K views 53 replies 32 participants last post by  tercel89 
#1 ·
You guys know about the idler pulley.

It's down there on the bottom, and it'll die if you get in the mud. It will also give up after about a zillion miles or so of street driving, and that's why I'm messing with this one.

So if you go to the dealer he wants like 40 bucks or so, and Vato zone is less but still too much.

That's horse shit. There's nothing wrong with the pulley. It's the bearing that goes bad.

So here's how you fix that.

Take the pully off of the motor, and drop it on your work bench.



Grab your snap ring pliers and pull that clip out.



Use a drift of some sort and a hammer, and drive the bearing out.


After washing the gunk off, you will be able to see a number on the bearing.

In this case, that number is 6301.

Here's the tricky part. The little girl selling parts at Vatozone won't know how to find a ball bearing. That's WAY too complicated for her.

But at the motorcycle shop, there's a good chance there's somebody that can find you a bearing because it's a normal thing for them.

I got mine out of stock.



Compare the new bearing with the old. If it's the same (And it will be if it's the same number) you're good to go.

This one sells for $8.25. That's the right price for a repair, huh?



Drive the bearing in, using a socket or something. Be careful that you don't crush the seal (The plastic part).



Pop that snap ring back in there and you're good to go.



Put that extra $20 or $30 in your pocket, and go wheeling.

Have fun!
 
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#36 ·
As previously stated I just confirmed that for the 3.4 the bearing is a 6301-2RS and the dimensions are 12mm inside diameter, 37mm outside diameter and 12mm width RS stands for Rubber Shielded. There are 3 types, Rubber shielded, Metal Shielded, and open.

Now for what you don't know. If you want to order them from a bike shop you'll find it's a pain since they don't use the same part numbers. They use the catalog numbers for the specific motorcycles they go to. So just tell the motorcycle shop that they are Rear Wheel Bearings for a 2000-2003 Honda XR-50 or a 2004-2011 CRX-50 dirt bike and they'll be able to find them easily.

I wound up calling All Balls Racing an online motorcycle bearing supplier. They had the 6301-2RS bearings for $4.71 each and free shipping. At that price I asked what rating the bearings were and he said all of their bearings are ABEC-5 rated bearings. Everything I have read list the ABEC-5 bearings as mid range in quality. I went ahead and ordered 2 just in case.
 
#37 ·
And some more info, the all balls bearing is made by kml. I didn't have a specific application for my local moto shop to look up but it was easily found in the '10 Tucker rocky street catalog, it dosnt show a specific bike but is listed by size. Page 181, pn 41-6301.

They didn't have it in stock but only took a day or two to get, $4.70 +tax.
 
#38 ·
I am biased, I "try" not to support the commies,

Grade 5 is the highest grade used for most apps short of Aerospace and the best to be found in the general market.

Folks have been replacing the AC idler bearings on this forum since the first write up, post #25944, April 17, 2001 at 5:49 pm by "Janster" (really) with, more than likely, many cheap ones. They seem to be lasting just fine. "Janster" used a Japanese NSK, the same as OEM.

When I had a squeeky OEM, a $5 MIC and an SKF grade 5, side by side on the bench, the bad OEM felt better than the $5 Chinese. In all fairness the OEM was more than likely spalled or brinelled making it "feel" not as sloppy.

At the counter the "Chinese Bearing catalog" did not list a grade at all, "more than likely a 1" the man said, the SKF catalog clearly stated the grade.

When I see a $5 brg that is not Chinese and/or has some documentation that it really is a grade 5, I will be the first to say "Wow, that is a great find!".

I had the choice between the cheepo and one from a respected manufacturer with a stated grade. I bought both and the cheepo is in my trail spares bag.
 
#42 ·
I picked the bearing up yesterday from Napa for about $26, I changed it out this morning and it took care of the whirring whining noise i was experiencing, however now i have a squeaking noise at idle it goes away upon adding throttle. I didnt check my torque specs on my tensioner it was pouring down rain and I was just trying to get it done. The bearing was metal sealed, this may seem stupid but does it need to be packed or lubed in any way maybe i missed that?
 
#43 ·
$26 just for the bearing? Thats crazy but the bearing should come all lubed up and ready to go. I did read, I think it was on here, that the metal shield ones don't keep shit out as well as the rubber shielded ones.
 
#44 ·
Im pretty sure it was in that range, but I bought two catalytic converters and vacuum lines and other odds and ends... I was thinking that sealed bearings came lubed already, maybe I tightened the belt up to tight or something im checking that as soon as the rain lets up.
 
#48 ·
Just in case anybody is interested...

The bearing I installed back in '09 for this write up is still in the 4runner, and still rocking out.

It was an All Balls, and it was installed on a 3.4 V6.

Running smooth, and not causing problems.

No telling how many miles it's done. It's a DD and gets used every single day.
 
#49 ·
i discovered when i was going to replace the alternator belt that the idler pulley is wobbling around like a bobble head doll. i'm hoping that the bearing is shot on the pulley, and that the idler bolt didn't come loose. i had the timing belt replaced two years ago by some AAA approved shop (i would've done it myself, but under the circumstances, i had the shop do it).

so worse case scenario, if it is the bolt that came loose. i'm a fuked??:eek:
 
#50 ·
My AC idler pulley was on its way out (noticed when changing belts last weekend). Bought a replacement via orielly autoparts ($25) Definitely not as heavy or as well built as the Toyota one that came off the truck. (Toyota one had a snap ring holding bearing in).

Ordered a replacement bearing

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com...Bearing-I-D-x-O-D-x-p/4093869.htm?Click=35177

Same PN as this thread was on the bearing of the pulley from my 2.7 (6301) Just over $6. I'll rebuild my OEM pulley and keep it for a spare or swap them out if I feel the replacement is insufficient.

Good thread thanks1

*Attached pic is of the DAYCO replacement from orielly
 

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#51 ·
I'm going to revive this ancient thread because I found the information extremely useful. I have a 1st gen Tacoma with the 2.7L I4 and I can confirm that the 6301 bearing fits both idler pulleys on this engine. Took all of 5 minutes to drive the old ones out and seat the new ones. Cost me a whopping $15.00 for both bearings from McGuire Bearing Supply.
 
#54 ·
Thanks from me also ! Very great information !!!!
 
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