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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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3rd Member Gasket

Hey all,

I just got my new 3rd back from the gear shop yesterday and I'm gonna put the axle back together today.

The entire assembly only has 11 miles on it so the gasket looks brand new still. I was wondering if it would be fine to re-use the gasket? Should I put a bit of silicone sealant on top of the gasket as well? Thanks!

~Miguel

(should this be in Newbie tech? Oh well...if it bothers you...cry)

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 12:38 PM
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I have always used grey RTV sealant by Permatex. Placed a bead around the mounting surface of the 3rd member, bolted to housing(hand tightened), let sit for about 15-20 minutes, then tightened. Have had no problems of leaks.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 12:55 PM
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I've used copper, but, yes, this is the way to go. I'm not sure if one color or the other is better, though.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 01:30 PM
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My 99 didn't even come with a gasket from the factory. The various times I fooled with the 3rd, though, I always used RTV sealant. Never had a leak.

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'15 Toyota Tundra SR5 TSS DC 4X4
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 01:41 PM
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I didnt use a gasket, just RTV also.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fernslinger
I didnt use a gasket, just RTV also.

Would it be a bad idea to use the original gasket AND the RTV? Or should I just use the RTV? Thanks.

~Miguel

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:08 PM
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I would say one or the other, that thin cardboard gasket material really doesn't like to be mated up with RTV.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguel4110
Would it be a bad idea to use the original gasket AND the RTV? Or should I just use the RTV? Thanks.

~Miguel
I don't know. I've only used the RTV gasket sealant on alot of drivetrain components - Taco 3rd member, Bronco 8.8 rear 3rd, Borg Warner 1356 t-case, t-case to auto tranny adapter, etc. It's supposed to act like a gasket in itself, although I must admit the BW 1356 t-case is currently leaking. Just out of curiosity, what material is your factory gasket made out of?

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:12 PM
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toss the gasket and use RTV.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by equin
I don't know. I've only used the RTV gasket sealant on alot of drivetrain components - Taco 3rd member, Bronco 8.8 rear 3rd, Borg Warner 1356 t-case, t-case to auto tranny adapter, etc. It's supposed to act like a gasket in itself, although I must admit the BW 1356 t-case is currently leaking. Just out of curiosity, what material is your factory gasket made out of?
At quick glance, it looks like cardboard. Like I said, it looks BRAND NEW.

By the way, does anyone have the torque spec. for the 3rd member bolts on a 2003 E-locker axle? Thanks!

~Miguel

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:14 PM
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The Toyota factory FIPG (pink pig) seems pretty unpopular because it's not the cheapest stuff on the planet ($14), but I swear by it. Whatever you do, use a good sealer by itself and skip the cardboard gasket.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguel4110
At quick glance, it looks like cardboard. Like I said, it looks BRAND NEW.

By the way, does anyone have the torque spec. for the 3rd member bolts on a 2003 E-locker axle? Thanks!

~Miguel
If you're talking about the 10 outer, it's 18 ft/lbs.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie
If you're talking about the 10 outer, it's 18 ft/lbs.

Yea that's it. Thanks a lot.

~Miguel

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:23 PM
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Sup shmag,

I would say to inspect the gasket when it comes off, if it looks ok, use it again with a thin layer of RTV. Have you checked Hanlees Toyota and priced a new one? I dont think it would be more than 10 bucks.

Just remember to clean the mating surfaces well, with a razor and then some carb cleaner maybe. See if matt has any suggestions.

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear
I would say one or the other, that thin cardboard gasket material really doesn't like to be mated up with RTV.

Hrmmm, I hope you know something specific about the rear axles because MOST applications on engines require a thin cardboard gasket and RTV...

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:33 PM
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Found a pirate4x4 thread which would help...they say no gasket needed.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=member+gasket

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfxspaid
Hrmmm, I hope you know something specific about the rear axles because MOST applications on engines require a thin cardboard gasket and RTV...
Well, Bear does know what he's talking about, and so do I. Mating the cardboard gasket with either sealant on one side or both sides is more likely to result in a leak than just using sealant alone. Reusing the old one is just silly.

Like you said, the key is to scrape both mating surfaces as clean as possible from old material residue. I always "lightly" scuff the surface with 220 grit (paying careful attention to the area around the studs) and wipe down with solvent. When using FIPG, let it sit & form a light skin before installation. Some sealants should be abblied wet (no skin), so the directions should be followed.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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No gasket it is then! Closest thing I have to carb cleaner is WD40 so that'll do I guess. I'll clean that shit off nice and prawpa! Thanks for the help guys!

~Miguel

PS: HalfxSpaid's wang = large

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguel4110
No gasket it is then! Closest thing I have to carb cleaner is WD40 so that'll do I guess. I'll clean that shit off nice and prawpa! Thanks for the help guys!

~Miguel

PS: HalfxSpaid's wang = large
WD-40? Who said use WD-40?


Come off the hip & spring for some acetone, paint thinner, brake clean, carb cleaner... anything that dries to the touch and does not leave an oily residue. Otherwise, you'll be doing it over.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 04:02 PM
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WD-40 will make the surface less adherent.

For about $5, get some brake or carb cleaner. When you are wiping the sureface are down on the housing, watch out for metal shavings. When I was cleaning the housing and widping it down with a paper towel I had a piece of metal shaving go into my finger about .5". Not horribly, just hurt like hell when I pulled it out.

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie
Well, Bear does know what he's talking about, and so do I.
Was I saying otherwise?

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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie
WD-40? Who said use WD-40?


Come off the hip & spring for some acetone, paint thinner, brake clean, carb cleaner... anything that dries to the touch and does not leave an oily residue. Otherwise, you'll be doing it over.

Please bang your head one more time. 3 wasn't enough. I'll buy some "insert wide variety of appropriate solvent here" next time I get the chance.

I was only thinking about the cleaning part, not the adhesive part. I've used WD40 to clean metal many times so that was my first thought.

Commencing "coming off the hip (?)" 3...2...1...NOW!



~Miguel

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyogim
When you are wiping the sureface are down on the housing, watch out for metal shavings. When I was cleaning the housing and widping it down with a paper towel I had a piece of metal shaving go into my finger about .5". Not horribly, just hurt like hell when I pulled it out.
I saw exactly what you're talking about. Those look brutal!

Thanks for the heads up!

~Miguel

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguel4110
Please bang your head one more time. 3 wasn't enough. I'll buy some "insert wide variety of appropriate solvent here" next time I get the chance.

I was only thinking about the cleaning part, not the adhesive part. I've used WD40 to clean metal many times so that was my first thought.

Commencing "coming off the hip (?)" 3...2...1...NOW!



~Miguel
LMAO! Sorry, couldn't tell what you were "thinking", had to go by what you said.

Come off the hip is an old-timey term similar to pony up.

Here's 4 more for you being too young to understand my humor:
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miguel4110
Would it be a bad idea to use the original gasket AND the RTV? Or should I just use the RTV? Thanks.

~Miguel
I would think one or the other also.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie
LMAO! Sorry, couldn't tell what you were "thinking", had to go by what you said.

Come off the hip is an old-timey term similar to pony up.

Here's 4 more for you being too young to understand my humor:
Hey, does your website sell books on how to deal with Elitist web-wheelers?

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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfxspaid
Hey, does your website sell books on how to deal with Elitist web-wheelers?
You mean elitist web wheelers like me? No, he deals with the likes of me in the worst way possible - with the torturous, ever hurtful guilt trip. Helps remove stubborn rotors in his driveway, sells parts at cheapest rates possible, offers great advice on where to go to get hard to find paint that matches paint codes, helps organize and coordinate wheeling runs, then invites us to 'em, all the while putting up with elitist web wheeling nonsense from the likes of me -

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Last edited by equin; 09-27-2005 at 05:23 PM.
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:23 PM
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Thats great, doesnt mean I cant bust some balls if he makes some comments. A helpful ttora member is always welcome by me.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:29 PM
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I know what you mean. He actually wheels alot and has pretty much lent a helping hand on practically all the active users' Tacomas here in the DFW area one way or another. Kinda funny you mentioned "web-wheeler", though, since he's been calling me that for awhile now just to get me to go out on the trails with him and the rest of the crew - hehe! Not that I don't want to go with them, I've just had my wheeling trips crossed with another 4x4 group lately. Hence, I couldn't resist replying. But I digress.

Just to stay on topic and wrap things up - use RTV sealant to create a gasket for the rear diff, but first wipe it clean (carefully) with carb cleaner or some other such solvent.

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
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Hey, does your website sell books on how to deal with Elitist web-wheelers?
LMAO! search n00b...
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