After having it sitting in my garage since the first week of August 05 I finally got this installed.
I've got it clocked at 30 degrees, you do this by selecting which holes you want to use on the adapter plate for the crawler, you can achieve this MULTIPLE ways, I chose the simplest way, the crawler goes in at zero degrees or "straight" up and down, since clocking it did not provide any clearance at all.
So after choosing the holes and clocking setting you then plug up all the unused holes as per instructions on Inchworm's site.
I chose to then just go with the 30 degrees clocking position for the transfercase and it worked well with my 2 inch body lift. Without it one would have to pound a bit more than I did for certain, but it is doable.
Now, I really like the products I've gotten from Brian at Front Range Off Road, he is a stand up man of character and has solid business practices, and since my other transfer case crossmember was so STOUT, I called him and told him I need one that clocked, he said I don't have one as of now, let me call you in a couple days. 2 days later I got the auto cad drawings of what he designed and a week later he sent me this......
It comes in 3 pieces and requires some trimming of excess metal which you can only determine after you know how much clocking you are or are not gonna do and the exhaust location in relation to the whole finished install. The crossmember is very versatile.
Here it is installed......
A minor bit of grinding/clearancing for exhaust. ( pic is with temp autozone exhaust fixer pipe )
Here you can see directly in the top center the shifter for the crawler and down the left and back a bit you can make out the transfer case shifter in its clocked position 30 degrees away from where it used to be.
So,..... now that I have all that new clearance, about 3.75 more inches of it as I did lift my drive train up about 1" higher when I mounted my crossmember, I needed something to protect all the nice soft aluminum. To do this I employed Justin, the guy who built my bumper, and he came up with a great skid that is about .25" below the drive stuff so as not to rub and only hangs below the frame about 1.25-1.5 inches. As you can see here I am almost completely flat.
Here is the skid......
Nice flush counter sunk allen head screws for no snagging.
It has several gusset arms on the inside to stiffen it up after cutting the hole for drive shaft movement and access to the flange for removal. It is made of 3/16ths as 1/4 would have weighed way too much, it is very solid and stiff. Since I had some serious dents and a bulge and bend in my frame, we went ahead and plated the underside and most of the inside of the frame. I have also procured over the last couple months some new rims, that at this time are way too shiny and in need of some rock rash and dirt and corrosion to de-bling them. They are 17x10's. I also decided to try some 40" Irok radials, oh what a joy it is to not be riding on the street anymore on flat spot riddled SX's. There are much skinnier than I like but they are nice and if I don't have a ton of rubbing issues, I'll probably stick with this size.
Here is one copared to a 37" Irock radial to give you and idea of just how TALL they are and as stated, disappointingly skinnier than my 37x12.5 I used to run.
Notice how nothing hangs below the frame?! Oh what a GOOD DEAL!