Torque specs when changing CV boots - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Torque specs when changing CV boots

Does anyone have the torque specs for the 4 lower ball joint bolts and the 36mm axle nut? Also do you need a tool to put the new boot clamps on or can I use channel locks? Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 05:43 PM
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axle lock nut appears to be 174 Ft*lbs

the 4 lower is 59 ft*lbs (use loctite)

http://65.200.1.6/FSM/Repair_Manual/...4wdpr/comp.pdf
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2005, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grntaco
Does anyone have the torque specs for the 4 lower ball joint bolts and the 36mm axle nut? Also do you need a tool to put the new boot clamps on or can I use channel locks? Thanks
ditto on the loctite for the LCA bolts (not the axle bolt) a few years back there was a run on LCAs coming loose with near disasterous results...something like 7 different trucks and 4 of them from Cali.

And then there was Dale a few weeks ago...the whole thing fell appart when he got to the parking lot at home

It really helps on those clamps to have the proper tool. you can pick one up at places like Kragen for a few bucks.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-26-2005, 12:52 AM
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I still argue that my FSM shows those bolts to be 83 ft/lbs. Thats what I torque mine to and I dont' use loctite
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-26-2005, 07:30 PM
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I still argue that my FSM shows those bolts to be 83 ft/lbs. Thats what I torque mine to and I dont' use loctite
well, your FSM is wrong cuz MINE says 59, so there
pg. SA-120, '00 FSM

and since they are green loctited from the factory and so many trucks who have swapped axles and didn't use it had bolts work loose I'd recommend using the darn stuff.

did you ever get my email about the radio?

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Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-26-2005, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking in a repair manual and it said to make sure the length of the axle after you put the boots on was 17 3/32 - 17 1/4 before you clamp it. How can the axle change lengths with the boot? No one sells the tool for the clamp where I am at. Does the small clamp just needs to be crushed and do I use both packets of grease that came with just the inner boot package? Thanks
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-26-2005, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grntaco
I was looking in a repair manual and it said to make sure the length of the axle after you put the boots on was 17 3/32 - 17 1/4 before you clamp it. How can the axle change lengths with the boot? No one sells the tool for the clamp where I am at. Does the small clamp just needs to be crushed and do I use both packets of grease that came with just the inner boot package? Thanks

The grey colored grease goes in the outer and the amber colored grease goes in the inner or tripod joint. Are you replacing both inner and outer? If you can get the clamp tight enough with channel-locks I suppose it will work. you don't have an decent auto parts place near you? that sucks... Kragen around here has the tool, not sure about Autozone or Pep Boys though. If you have a friend who works as a mechanic take the axle to him/her and have it done

the reason the book has a measurment on the axle is to keep the pressure in the boots as equalized as possible. this is especially true with the inner joint as it telescopes in and out as the suspension cycles. Too much air pressure and when the axle goes in all the way the boot will spring a leak or burst under exteme conditions. Too little and the boot collapses when the axle if fully extended. I've screwed mine up before and the worse that has happened is I get a little grease squirting out for a while until it equalizes...no big deal. I used a pair of tile nippers to clamp the band once

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2005, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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I am replacing the inner only. The kit for the inner boot from the dealer came with both packets of grease and one boot for some reason. I bought a butterfly style crimp tool from autozone but it looks like a pair of pliers and just slips off. I have Checkers here but they don't carry it and neither did Pep Boys. I have a spare axle I might just put in and take the old axle and boot in to a CV shop if I can't clamp it with pliers. Thanks
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2005, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grntaco
I am replacing the inner only. The kit for the inner boot from the dealer came with both packets of grease and one boot for some reason. I bought a butterfly style crimp tool from autozone but it looks like a pair of pliers and just slips off. I have Checkers here but they don't carry it and neither did Pep Boys. I have a spare axle I might just put in and take the old axle and boot in to a CV shop if I can't clamp it with pliers. Thanks
two packets of the same type of grease or two different kinds?
CV shop is a good bet if you have one local

Quote:
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Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-28-2005, 08:10 PM
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I could have gotten the tool to clamp this clamp on mine also but ti was 30 bucks and it was basically a pair of pliers, what a rip off. I just used a pair of wire cutters, they kind with a big flat head... ill go find a picture, im not sure what theyre called. Ahh I found some! Nippers, http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/22-84-nippers.aspx

hmm looks like some of these come close to the 30 bucks but these would be way more useful in your toolbox than a one purpose crimp tool I feel.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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two packets of the same type of grease or two different kinds?
CV shop is a good bet if you have one local
It came with two packets of the same type of grease with the same P/N. They were like 125 mg or grams each.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I could have gotten the tool to clamp this clamp on mine also but ti was 30 bucks and it was basically a pair of pliers, what a rip off. I just used a pair of wire cutters, they kind with a big flat head... ill go find a picture, im not sure what theyre called. Ahh I found some! Nippers, http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/22-84-nippers.aspx

hmm looks like some of these come close to the 30 bucks but these would be way more useful in your toolbox than a one purpose crimp tool I feel.
I have a small pair of those. You didn't have a problem with them cutting the clamp? Thanks
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grntaco
It came with two packets of the same type of grease with the same P/N. They were like 125 mg or grams each.
gotcha, use it all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teryx View Post
Yeah, well, I'm just glad I snagged a few Spector cans before EPA converted them to Sphincters
Quote:
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Lube may be your best friend (depending on location).
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-29-2005, 01:42 PM
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No not really, on one it was probably my fault that I clamped it a little too hard and it began to kinda tweak the crimp part but i stopped then and it was fine. It works well just dont try to cut it i guess

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