3RZ Valve shim job? - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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3RZ Valve shim job?

Anyone have experience doing one?
I'm at 150K miles now.. Want my valves shimmed.
I've had 2 mechanics tell me "if they're not making noise don't touch it." Fuck that. Fine, I'll do it myself. But, this requires pulling the VC, measuring clearance, then ordering the necessary shims from Toyota.
So this could be a multi day job.. I'm okay with that. But does anyone think they could come help? I'm confident I can do it I'd just like someone who's done it before to look over my back..

Let me know if you think you could help. I can reimburse you for time and gas.
If no one here can help.. I'll ask my neighbor who's a ford mechanic

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2010, 11:07 PM
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Scuba,

I was told the same thing from a toyota mechanic when I was at 160K. 45K later and no problems or noise . Take pics when you do it so I can do mine.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2010, 11:09 AM
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Its nothing to check the clearances. That's easy insurance. If the valves are close, I wouldn't worry. If you have some that are tight, then spend the time and replace. You'll need a tool to compress the cup so you can swap shims. I've got a handful of shims that I pulled from my old engine.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-14-2010, 02:06 AM
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If you decide to take the head off, there is an excellent cylinder head shop in Stanton I can refer you to. They have done/do work for a bunch of businesses in the area including dealerships.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 12:58 AM
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No need to pull the head unless he burned a valve or something.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-15-2010, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShowStop View Post
No need to pull the head unless he burned a valve or something.
Lets hope thats not the case. But yeah. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the head. I guess a compression test before I tear her apart for clearance testing would be smart.

Something has to explain why the thing burns 8oz of 10-40 every 3K miles... Cause it damn sure ain't dripping it anywhere.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba View Post
Lets hope thats not the case. But yeah. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the head. I guess a compression test before I tear her apart for clearance testing would be smart.

Something has to explain why the thing burns 8oz of 10-40 every 3K miles... Cause it damn sure ain't dripping it anywhere.
Worn rings maybe? Any blue smoke? Could be synth oil (eventhough it's a myth, haha).

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-14-2011, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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No blue smoke. Compression is good.
180, 170, 165, 180.
I'll be doing the valve shims soon. A couple of them are out of spec.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-13-2011, 11:55 AM
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well first things silence is the killer of all valves!! yeah if you can hear them they're too loose, but if you cant they can also be too tight, which will cause you to burn a valve.

And as for the oil. ill bet its the valve guide seals, you might be able to get lucky depending on the typoe of seal, and be able to replace them with out pulling off the head.
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