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post #31 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Frame Reinforcement

Eventually, I do want to add a tire carrier on the back end and shoehorn an auxiliary fuel tank in where the spare currently rides. I was already ordering sliders from Demello and figured it was a good time to spend the extra $100 (and I really wanted an excuse to weld something ). The reinforcement pieces are .120" steel with lightening holes. They fit perfect around all the welds and extrusions in the frame EXCEPT the fuel filler tube mount. Not a big deal. Once the bed was off we cut the mounting bracket off and saved it for later with the intent to weld it back on over the reinforcement.

I had limited time to work each day and knew that we couldn't finish both sides in the allotted time. I got magnetic tail lights (the kind used for towing a vehicle) for $10 and stuck them to the frame. The circuit doesn't work if both tail lights are unplugged so we zip tied one to the inside of the bumper.



Tail light zipped to the bumper



We then tacked the reinforcement on



I had a bit of anxiety about welding near the gas tank. To ease my nerves, we covered it as best we could with wet shirts to cool the splatter quickly. I only have a wire feed welder so the raw welds aren't very pretty but after some heavy wire brushing they look pretty good. We then painted over them with Rustoleum Bed Liner after washing the whole thing with acetone.

Final product seasoned with a bit of dirt.



Fuel filler tube bracket reinstalled



I honestly didn't think these would do much more than transfer energy better during a rear end collision and give me worse whiplash but wow did they stiffen up the back end. There is a certain freeway around here that with the right wheelbase can really get a vehicle hopping. The truck used to feel like it was actually bending back and forth when traveling this stretch. I always thought it was just a weird sensation and that the truck couldn't actually be bending... maybe it was (I've since seen some photos of trucks broken in half). What ever it was doing it is doing it a whole lot less now that these are stuck to the sides of the frame. Are they worth it from a time, energy and financial stand point? Up to you. I certainly did enjoy installing them and am sure they'll pay dividends once I start hanging all sorts of weight off the back.

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-04-2017 at 08:14 PM.
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post #32 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Sliders

I got a set of bolt on sliders from Demello Off Road. I had intended to get the all tubular pair but they already had a set of hybrids (half square, half round) built and let me have 'em for the same price. These are not light. Granted, I think these are the only sliders I've ever picked up but damn are they heavy! The bolting on was super simple. 3 out of the 4 mounting brackets utilized holes already in the frame. The 4th I drilled with a unibit after making a small pilot hole. A right angle drill head is needed to make the final hole because of the way the body hangs over the frame on the outside and the placement of the exhaust on the other. Not a big deal and it went a whole lot faster than I could have imagined. So far they haven't been used as armor but they make great steps for accessing the roof rack and tying down my canoe.

Slider mounts



Sliders from above



I was under the impression that they would hug the body a little closer and was a bit disappointed but now I think they're perfect. They extend out far enough to provided side protection if the trail gets tight through a canyon or trees (as long as you aren't tipped to the side that is).

During my deer hunt- sliders installed

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post #33 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drabnor View Post
so you went from: +12v---to the light---ground from light---to the correct side of the rheostat ?

because thats how it should work... methinks you got on the wrong side of the rheostat?
I'm so puzzled on this thing. I tried hooking them up to every wire (3) going in and out of that thing and they either come on with no dimming, work backwards with the dimmer, or don't work at all. Tried switching ground and +12V, using just ground and hot w/ key, etc.

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-01-2012 at 01:17 PM.
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post #34 of 53 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yakima Canoe Mounts

I had been talking and talking with friends about how much I wanted a canoe and how awesome it would be to have a canoe and how often we'd all go fishing if I had a canoe. Then one friend gave me a set of Yakima canoe mounts for my rack. Then I had to buy a canoe. They're simple but work pretty well. I've mobbed down the trail to our favorite put-in spot faster than a truck as heavy as mine probably should go, slid through the corners and gotten light over the crests and haven't had it shift yet. As for how it works on top of the mega warrior, the boat itself fits a bit weird. I have light mounts installed in the back for my eventual auxiliary lights so the distance between the rear mounts is limited. This makes the boat sit farther forward on the rack but more centered over the truck. The first few times out I strapped it down as you see it here.



I later built a support for over the cab out of PVC and feel much better about it.

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post #35 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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ARB Air Locker Part 1

Because I'm choosing not to use ARB's compressor to supply the air to actuate the locker, I've had to piece together the pneumatics and electronics to make it work.

The ARB air lockers require 90psi to operate and I've read that over 100psi can damage the seals. Originally, I had an 85-105psi pressure switch installed with my Viair system. After scouring post after post and build after build, the decision was made to make a change. The 85-105 was scrapped in favor of the 110-150psi switch and between the tank and the locker solenoid lies a regulator adjusted to 90psi so that the locker can be cycled many times before the compressor needs to kick on. If I had kept the 85-105 switch I could probably only get a couple cycles of the locker and it would probably stay engaged maybe an hour before recharging (keep in mind these are all guess numbers because my locker wasn't installed with the original setup).

Here's the pneumatics:

Yes, I know the "T" fitting should have been set up 90 degrees off from how it's seen here but that was all already together before having to include the manifold to accommodate the regulator. I was afraid to pull it apart after having tightened everything down so it stayed just as it was.

The wiring harness built by ARB comes with the compressor. Since I'm not using their compressor, I don't have one. I tried briefly to order one from Marlin Crawler but it was back ordered for months and I finally cancelled it. The hookup really isn't that complicated but no diagram is included with the locker. Here's how it all goes together:


The switch fits nicely in the empty slots with minimal modification. The bay needs to be widened vertically for the body of the switch to fit and the switch needs to be skinnied up in the long direction so the lip will countersink. Here it is:


Next comes the hard part... Probably wont get around to the locker install until summer because, if you've followed this you know, my truck is a daily driver and due to the gig I'm on right now, need the thing operational 7 days/ week until June.

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/230-expedition-builds/143519-desert-dd-expo.html

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-08-2012 at 11:32 AM.
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post #36 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Wires and such

Quote:
Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
I'm so puzzled on this thing. I tried hooking them up to every wire (3) going in and out of that thing and they either come on with no dimming, work backwards with the dimmer, or don't work at all. Tried switching ground and +12V, using just ground and hot w/ key, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loudboy View Post
Reverse the wires?

I'd have to see a diagram to tell you more, I havent seen how these are wired up.

Nice looking truck though, there are definitely some ideas there that I would like to end up using in the future
Quote:
Originally Posted by drabnor View Post
so you went from: +12v---to the light---ground from light---to the correct side of the rheostat ?

because thats how it should work... methinks you got on the wrong side of the rheostat?

So you guys told me, I didn't understand. The rheostat does indeed control the ground. Instead of pulling + to GND as I had imagined, it pulls GND to +. While pulling my dash apart in preparation for a Uniden CB in the ashtray location, I put a test light on the wiring going to the light that used to live in the ashtray and a light went on (pun totally intended). Thanks everyone. I'm an idiot.

Furthermore: I now have lots of wire under the dash. To clarify, lots of red wires that all look the same. In fact, that rat's nest is quite embarrassing. When I first started installing wiring, I "knew" I would remember how everything was run... Some time has passed since the initial install of a lot of this stuff. I had to retrace EVERYTHING. Advice: LABEL YOUR WIRES. Mine is simple. Write it small on paper and scotch tape it to the wire.


It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-04-2017 at 08:18 PM.
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post #37 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 02:54 PM
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Nice build. How's the "measure once cut twice" working for you lately?

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post #38 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wainiha View Post
Nice build. How's the "measure once cut twice" working for you lately?
Ya know, I can't figure out why I cut things three times and they still end up too short...

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #39 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Brake Bias

When I installed the rear springs I discovered that there is a brake bias proportioning valve tied to the rear axle that adjusts the braking power of the rear brakes depending on how much weight it thinks is on the tires. It uses distance between the truck and the axle as the measuring device. I only added an inch, maybe inch and a half to the rear so I didn’t feel any adjustment needed to be made… Then I blew through brake pads quicker than I ever have on any vehicle (I drive this thing like a little old lady –one who doesn’t ride the brakes- on road and downshift religiously).

Bay Area Metal Fab makes an adjustable bracket to fix this and it’s more bang for the buck than anything I could have thrown together. It takes less than an hour to go from box to truck including prep/ paint/ dry so only about 3 minutes of actual work and 57 minutes of waiting for paint to dry.



Holy crap was I missing out on some stopping power! I’m not sure exactly how far above stock my truck sits but my best guess is between 1 and 2 inches. I installed the bracket for 1.5 – 2 inches and the difference is amazing. It may be adjusted up a little too high but I've yet to feel the ABS kick in (actually not sure if ABS is only on the front or all 4 wheels - haven't locked the rears up either). I’ll update if I blow through brake shoes in 5,000 miles…

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #40 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 07:17 PM
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I like yer psychedelic trailer

the wiring to the fuse box... not so much

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Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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post #41 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 01:32 AM
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helluvajob. Are you out by monkey hole in the jeep?

06' 4x4 dbl cab sport, auto, bilst 5100's, eibach coils, aal's, 285/70 17's bfg KM2's, All pro front/rear plate bumpers and skids, trailgear sliders, navi avn6600, 12" pioneer flat sub, mile marker 9.5k winch, K&N intake, flowmaster. Lifetime tent trailer. KTM 450exc.

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post #42 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
I like yer psychedelic trailer

the wiring to the fuse box... not so much
Workin on straightening up the wiring. I know it's a mess but it's all fused and tucked out of sight.

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingysataday View Post
helluvajob. Are you out by monkey hole in the jeep?
Farther North. Burrow Wash. Last time I was down there it was washed out so bad in parts that we had to stack rocks to get a even a TRD Prerunner Taco sitting on 305x75r16s back out. Trailer would not have made it...

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
Workin on straightening up the wiring. I know it's a mess but it's all fused and tucked out of sight.
It's not the looks of it that concerns me...
I just don't like using the oem fuse panel to run optional pwr. accessories to.

Instead... I would rather install a dedicated fuse block/panel
powered direct off the battery and run all the accessories to that.

Just seems smarter to me, to not draw thru the truck's e system circuit.

I'm sure it will work fine for you...
it's just not my style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build

Last edited by TacoDell; 04-12-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 10:52 PM
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I really like your build! Simple and functional, I am looking at putting a canopy on mine soon but I'm also tossed up about losing cargo height, also I haul a dirt bike but may get a hitch mounted carrier for that.
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post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnl4rw29r View Post
I honestly didn't think these would do much more than transfer energy better during a rear end collision and give me worse whiplash but wow did they stiffen up the back end. There is a certain freeway around here that with the right wheelbase can really get a vehicle hopping. The truck used to feel like it was actually bending back and forth when traveling this stretch. I always thought it was just a weird sensation and that the truck couldn't actually be bending... maybe it was. What ever it was doing it is doing it a whole lot less now that these are stuck to the sides of the frame. Are they worth it from a time, energy and financial stand point? Up to you. I certainly did enjoy installing them though.
still is btw...

now that you stiffened the rear portion of the frame rails...
the weak spot or most frame flex will be noticeable
just forward of the leaf spring forward perches.

Not much can be done to avoid that tho'

Set the truck down on some jack stands at that frame location...
and you will see the amount of flex still there.
Can be seen or measured by looking at the gap
between the bed and the cab. (especially noticeable if a bed shell resides)

Plating or boxing the rear rails simply stiffens things up out back
so that the rails don't crack or bend as easily when weight
is added to the farthest rear portion of the bed.

just sayin'

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootn2nature View Post
so fuck off you little 18 yr old lying ass punk.
'00 Taco SR5, xtrcab, V6, 5-SP, 4X, and some extras...

Truck...
~n~ ...off road action photo's
Trailer...

Truck build --- Trailer build
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post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Bottle Opener

Been a bit since I've updated this. Things have happened. Truck is still the best vehicle I've ever owned. It's still not quite the go anywhere expo rig I see in my dreams but I love it. Simple yet functional mod: Bottle Opener!!! Mine is mounted to the cap over my bed. Bumpers are good hosts too.

Pretty self explanatory. Aquire bottle opener. Drill holes. Mount bottle opener. I did pack some silicone around the holes and then wiped away the excess after cranking the bolts down.


It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519

Last edited by fnl4rw29r; 04-10-2017 at 08:16 PM.
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post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Bed Lights

After wrestling with the dark and trying to find stuff stored in the bed whether it be working, camping, or just being disorganized and having loads of crap in there, I decided to mount a light. Instead of a battery powered light or one tied to hot-with-key power, I wanted something I could turn on and off at anytime without worry as to whether the attached AAs were still good or if the key was in the ignition. I also didn't want to forget and leave the light on (or have a friend be "funny" and leave it on purposefully without my knowledge) with it tied directly to the truck's battery. Solution: timer switch.



I utilized the bolts already coming through the cap that are holding the bottle opener in place. The housing a simple Home Depot wiring box (i don't know what they're called- they're in the electric isle with the blue boxes that mount behind the drywall in a house). The timer is also intended for in-home wiring and available at a big box store. The 3rd brake light wiring already sports a 3-terminal plug so I can take the cap on and off (only needs 2 contacts but I had an extra 3 contact plug). I used the available contact for the +12V to the switch and tapped into the ground already in place for the brake light.



The lights were the cheapest LEDs I could acquire on Amazon because I wasn't sure how well this would all work. I can easily upgrade the lights later. These are LED pads intended for replacing dome lights. I simply attached some hook side Velcro to the back of the LED pad and stuck it to the carpet liner of my cap. Not going anywhere. Works like a charm.



I made some 2" wide Velcro strips (hard side) to use to secure the wires to the cap. The whole thing took only a few hours and I'm very happy with how it turned out. I will change out the lights for something warmer and MUCH softer. These little guys are very white (probably 7000K- which I can't stand) and throw very hard shadows. I think some LED strips running down the side in a 3200K temperature would be perfect.

Here's the current setup with the super white "dome" lights


It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Auxiliary Lights

I'm not sure who really needs to drive at 60mph in reverse. I don't. I need to see when I'm packing up camp or a fishing spot in the dark and it helps to see what's around the rear end in the side mirrors when I don't have someone to spot me backing down a steep bank to get to a launch spot with the canoe. Therefore, I do not need a 1 trillion lumen LED light bar mounted out back. Instead, I need soft light with a flood beam that is easy on the eyes when working (or playing) in the dark. I opted for four 10W flood LEDs. They're not necessarily intended for vehicular applications but they're rated IP68, accept a 12VDC supply, and are a warm ~3000K so they're easy on the eyes. I mounted them to a plate with 2 facing rearwards and the other 2 angled out roughly 30 degrees.



The plate is mounted to the under side of my Yakima rack.



The wiring runs forward inside a loom which is tied to one of the main tubes of the rack. The wires enter the cap through a water resistant bulkhead connector I sourced at my local boat shop so that I can still remove the rack. I slathered dielectric grease on the exterior connector's contacts prior to assembly.

(IMG coming soon)

There's another water resistant wire connection where the cap meets the bed so that I can remove the cap as well. The wires are held in place running down the inside of the cap with 2" hook side Velcro.

(IMG coming soon)

Power comes from a relay mounted under the hood and is triggered by a 3 position switch on the dash (on/off/on). The switch also triggers a red indicator LED on my gauge pod so that I don't accidentally drive down the highway with the rear lights blazing (mentioned in the post regarding my gauge pod).



Terrible picture but shows the throw of the lights around the rear. Not too bright. Just enough to see whats around.


It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Leaf Spring Breakage

It took about 100,000 miles before those Wheeler 5 leaf packs let me down. The driver side main leaf broke right in front of the U-bolt on the hanger side (front side). I was about 300 miles from home when this happened.




After a run into town to the local hardware store, I had a solution that would at least provide some peace of mind on my nail biting drive home.



I wrapped the above setup with duct tape in an attempt to keep it from walking down the spring. It stayed put the whole way home.

Until the one broke, I had no complaints with those springs. Instead of replacing the old, tired springs with the same 5 leaf packs, I ordered a set of the Wheeler 9 leaf packs. Because I do routinely load my truck heavy and occasionally tow a cargo trailer (that sweet little teardrop is now somebody else's baby), I installed Timbren "bump stops." They're more of an overload spring than a bump stop. I thought briefly about going with airbags because I could adjust them from empty to full load and everywhere in-between but was worried they'd inhibit travel (specifically in the drop direction- the Timbrens destroy the travel in the flex direction). If anybody has some insight into running airbags under a vehicle that actually sees some trail time, I'd love some insight. I'm still open to adopting airbags.



(Timbren IMG coming soon)

I like the Timbrens when the truck is sitting on them. They ride great, the truck stays level, and I don't know they're there. When the truck is empty they completely suck. There's about an inch between the spring perch and the bottom of the bump stop. When I hit something that travels the spring far enough to contact the Timbren (which doesn't take much), it feels like I've bottomed out the suspension. Again, if somebody has an airbag setup that works reasonably well on axle twisting trails, please point me in the right direction! I haven't come across anything that really convinces me.

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #51 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Front Auxiliary Lights

When it comes to bombing down trails in the dark at unsafe speeds, my high beams have been adequate. What they don't do well is light up enough to the sides. When trying to access new fishing holes and explore new areas, I always find that I or my passenger are hanging our heads out the window with a flashlight trying to see turnoffs and faint trails that run off into who knows what. After some reading, studying, and shopping, I settled on the CBI Ditch Light brackets and a pair of 4", 27W LED floods.

The CBI Ditch Light brackets install over top of the base of the hood hinge on each side. To access this, the fenders need to come off. To take the fenders off, everything needs to come off the front of the truck. I took this time to replace my headlights as well since the old ones were yellow and foggy.





I am very happy with the quality of the CBI parts. Plenty beefy, they fit as intended, and the powder coating is solid.



The lights wire up to a relay under the hood (mounted right next to the relay for the rear aux lights) and to the same 3 position switch as the rear aux lights. That 3 position switch now controls both front and rear aux lights. This way, only one can be operated at a time. Just like the rear lights, there's an LED on the gauge pod that indicates when the lights are on (this one's green).

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #52 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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In-Cab Snorkel

Engines don't like ingesting a lot of water. The intake tube on a Tacoma is mounted pretty high (it's inside the passenger side front fender) and when the fender liner is installed, it's pretty well protected from sucking up things it shouldn't. However, there's still potential to swamp an engine. A traditional snorkel with the intake mounted at roof level is nice but is requires a huge hole through the fender and mounting holes through the A-pillar and is expensive for some molded plastic (still cheaper than a new engine though). Also, if I've got water up to the roof line, I probably have bigger problems. I've heard of in-cab snorkels for a long time and a little while ago began researching the pro's and con's as well as seeing what others have done to fit one into a 1st Gen Taco.
My list of Pro's and Con's:

Pro- Hidden, removable without needing new body panels, provides visual of intake level (water needs to be in the cab and above my speakers before I suck water), cleaner intake environment.

Con- Intake noise, intake level lower than traditional snorkel (actually lower than stock intake level but better protected)

Since the fenders were already off for the ditch brackets, it wasn't much of a chore to go ahead and try out an in-cab snorkel. Should I decide against it, I could always patch the 4" hole under the dash and nobody would every know it was once there.

In my reading of other's in-cab snorkel projects, I did not find much info on what setup would actually fit under stock 1st Gen Taco fenders. I saw a writeup on hiding one under 3" extended fiberglass fenders and a few 2nd Gen Tacos but the closest I could find to what I was about to do was a 3rd Gen 4runner. In order to help others wanting to go this route, I'll try to share as much detail as I can here (and also post this in the tech section by itself).

To get some FAQs out of the way: yes it fits under the fenders, yes the fender liner still fits, yes I hear it in the cab.

On to the project-
Step one, remove passenger side fender (already off in my case for the ditch light bracket install).
After some mocking up and some trial and error, I decided I needed to retain the entire stock setup that resides inside the fender in order to clear at the front end where real estate is at a premium. I left the stock horizontal intake tube in place in order to dial in lengths and angles of the tubing.

Next, bore a big freakin' hole through the side of the body into the cab. I built my snorkel out of 3" ABS plastic available at your local big box store. The "ABS to body adapter" I fashioned out of a toilet flange. The toilet flange needed to be cut down on the side that would be inside the cab in order to clear the blower motor and duct work under the dash. The 90º elbow (street fitting- only has a coupler on one side) will attach to the opposite side of what is intended so the lip inside of the toilet flange needed to be removed as well. As luck would have it, the stock intake tube fits PERFECTLY inside 3" ABS. I cut one of the couplers off of a 45º elbow and worked it on to the intake tube. I then test fit a section of pipe between the elbows and marked everything with a silver marker so that I could clock it properly when I went to glue it all together. Once it was call cut, shaved, sanded, and indexed, I glued the 90º elbow into the toilet flange. I then used a heat gun to adjust the flange so that it fit the contour of the body. I also needed to trim about 40% of the flange off on the door hinge side for clearance.





Once I was happy with everything I used ABS cement to glue it all together (just the 3" pipe I was adding, not the ABS to the stock intake tube). Now that I had my snorkel built, it came time to silicone the snot out of everything. I worked from intake side to engine side installing each piece as I went. I did not skimp on the silicone between the body and the toilet flange. It made for messy fingers when bolting it in, but I know it's water tight (I removed the door so that I could get the nuts on the back side by myself). I even siliconed the mating line between the 90º elbow and the toilet flange because I wasn't sure if the ABS cement's integrity was compromised when I heated the flange to form it.



Now that the toilet flange was was sitting exactly where the stock antenna used to reside, I needed to get creative. Again with the heat gun, I formed a piece of PVC then slid the stock antenna mounting rod inside and glued it in place.



Once everything was siliconed together (including the stock intake pieces all the way up to where they meet the air box) and the new antenna mount was in place, it was time to try and get the fender to fit. I knew it should fit because I mocked it up about 15 times throughout the process, but now that it was all actually connected, it was the moment of truth.



AND THE FENDER LINER EVEN WENT BACK IN!!!!! ...but it did take some work to get it in



Now, as for the in cab noise- One person's thread claimed it was so loud they couldn't stand it and removed the system. I can not hear it under normal driving conditions. When I get higher up in the power band or really stand on the throttle, it sounds like I've got a fire breather under the hood. I have made several long road trips and it didn't bother me once. I was bombing down a sandy wash and keeping the R's up in a lower gear so as to keep moving through the silt and it started to get a little droning but still not aggravating. Once I make a trip pulling my cargo trailer loaded down, I'll update the noise report. As of right now, no complaints.

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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post #53 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Phoenix
Posts: 71
Astray Mounted CB Radio

The CB mounted near the floor by the cup holders worked and was easy but was constantly getting bashed by the passenger seat every time it slid forward. I really like how clean others got the Uniden 520XL to squeeze into the ashtray location. I have much more use for a CB than an ashtray so the switch was made.

With the unit mounted in the dash, the internal speaker would be very hard to hear. For that reason I went with a satellite speaker mounted in the headliner. The install of the speaker was way easier than I thought it'd be. I took the plastic housing off of the back leaving me with just a speaker and the cover. The screws go in from the back and are tapped into speaker cover so mounting requires nothing more than cutting out a hole for the speaker's magnet to fit through in the headliner and placing some washers under the screws before running them through the headliner into the speaker cover. The wires run down the passenger side "A" pillar behind the grab handle to get behind the dash.



To mount the CB, the center trim section of the dash needs to be removed. There are two screws hidden behind the climate control fascia. Don't break the plastic trying to pry the thing out. With the ashtray removed, I used a rotary tool to cut out the plastic behind the ashtray and then did some trial and error to see how deep I could seat the CB before it hit the floor climate control ducts that are right there. I used a 90 degree connector for the antenna to buy some more space. I probably could have taken the heat gun to the floor ducts and pushed them back a bit but I think the CB is recessed far enough. I simply used 3M mounting tape to hold it in place. It has been 3 years since this thing was installed and even the Southern Nevada/ Central Arizona summer heat hasn't defeated the mounting tape.



Just because I could, I opted to run a PA speaker up front for communicating with any spotter I may have if things get hairy. Between the PA output on the back of the CB and the PA horn speaker mounted behind the grille lies a speaker amplifier that I mounted under the CB using more 3M mounting tape.

It's always a work in progress...

Build thread: http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143519
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