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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Fj80 Help

I'm posting this for my father who needs some info help. He has an fj80 vx Limited from japan which is his baby but he does like to wheel it alittle bit. Hes taken his running boards off for some clearence but hes concerned now about rocker damage. So its rock slider time, we've looked at slee's and a few others but they want almost $1000 by the time there shipped for sliders. I know landcruiser stuff is expensive but that seems steep for what they are. I'm just looking for some companys that make sliders that you've had good expirence with, I know theres lots of little companys out there makin parts.

The other question is have any of you guys takin your sway bars off to get some more wheel travel? And if so does it make the truck undrivable on the road or just some body roll? He has an old man emu 2.5" lift waiting to go in it and is just on the fence if he should take the sway bars off or not.

Any info would be awsome.
Cheers

01 taco trd, 34's, full custom skids, bumpers, sliders and stinger, tubed firewall, stage 3 dent kit.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 06:03 PM
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custom sliders homemade or local shop
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 06:26 AM
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Solid Rock off Road makes good sliders that are less expensive. THe cheapest route is to get the long trailgear sliders and fab your own mounts.

I'd leave the sway bars on unless you want to fab up a quick disconnect. These rigs are top heavy enough--I wouldn't risk having to do an emergency manuever with them off.

The rears have more than enough travel, but to get some more travel out of the fronts, simply pull one front control arm bolt(preferably the one to the rear) and replace it with a standard hitch pin and clip. Remove the pin for more flex off road, and MAKE SURE to put it back in when you are finished.

Clarification: There are six total front control arm bolts. Three per arm. One attaches to the frame and two attach to the axle--one in front, one in the rear. Remove the bolt that attaches behind the axle. Only remove one bolt total.


I'd also get the castor correction bushings to help with driveability after the lift.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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The trail gear sliders is a good idea i like that.

Ok thats what we were both thinking that no sway bars and coils could be scary. The quick disconnect idea seems pretty solid tho.

Caster, camber correction bushing kit came with his OME kits so no worries there.
Thanks for the info man.

01 taco trd, 34's, full custom skids, bumpers, sliders and stinger, tubed firewall, stage 3 dent kit.

85 pickup, 3" custom lift, 33's, built 22re, lots of crawling goodies soon.

02 Taco short cab step side sr5, all stock and has all my love.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 05:58 AM
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The hitch pin mod will give you more travel than the sway bar disconnect, but you could do both if you really wanted to free up the front end.

I can't get you a link because I can't access it at work, but search over at IH8mud for info on the trailgear sliders. User "Box Rocket" did a nice write up with pics in the 80 series section.

1995 T100, beater edition
1997 Land Cruiser, Collectors Edition
2001 Sequoia Limited, family wagon
2002 Camry, commuter chariot extraordinaire
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hes lookin for alittle more wheel travel so I think the hitch pin mod would work well. He doesn't push it really hard.
I'll check out the Mud write up. The trail gear sliders with the gusset kit and maybe some plating on the frame should work pretty well. just gutta figure out a way around the cat on the passenger side cuz I don't think you could mount a straight leg from the slider to the frame in that spot.

01 taco trd, 34's, full custom skids, bumpers, sliders and stinger, tubed firewall, stage 3 dent kit.

85 pickup, 3" custom lift, 33's, built 22re, lots of crawling goodies soon.

02 Taco short cab step side sr5, all stock and has all my love.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 08:15 AM
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http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...yone-else.html

Here is the link. Some of his pics are down, but it still should be pretty helpful

1995 T100, beater edition
1997 Land Cruiser, Collectors Edition
2001 Sequoia Limited, family wagon
2002 Camry, commuter chariot extraordinaire
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 08:21 AM
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http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...-93-fzj80.html

more pics in that thread too.

1995 T100, beater edition
1997 Land Cruiser, Collectors Edition
2001 Sequoia Limited, family wagon
2002 Camry, commuter chariot extraordinaire
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 07:18 AM
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Mossyrocks on here has done some amazing armor for a friend of his 80. Front and rear bumbers and sliders. Pm him for some pics. If nothing else his sliders are badass and nicely priced.

98 Tacoma 4wd xcab Sr5 2.7 auto, 265/75/R16 Kelly Safari TSR's, Mossyrock's Sliders, 881's and billy's, OME dakar leafs and shocks.
83 4wd pickup 22r some sort of lift, 5.29's, 36 tsl's, lockrite and spool, and a complete disregard for body damage alot more mods in the works
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 07:42 AM
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Just to clarify.

To do the hitch pin mod you remove the ds front axle mount bolt. The bolt that is closest to the front of the van on the ds.

As far as sway bars go, the dude I bought mine from has a vx w/o sway bars. He said it is managable and has been road tripping it like that for a while now. His is also lifted roughly 4".

That being said he did pick up a rear sway bar recently.

The ass end flexes pretty good out of the box so if youre going to mess w the sway bars either make quick discos for both front and rear (search mud) or try just removing the front one. See how it feels and then make changes as needed.



The ps cat area is a bitch when making sliders. There are a few threads on mud with pictures of peoples slider designs, the most popular seems to one "georges".

I made my own and just recently got them on. There are a couple pics here in the fab folder and more on mud in my "93 80 Beater" thread. It is possible to run the legs straight out from the frame if you bend back the rocker pinch weld. This gives you another 1" of clearance between your outriggers and the rocker. You just have to figure out what to do around the cats.

My advice would be to find a design you like and take it to a local fabber if you dont have the tools/knowhow to do it yourself.

Good luck.

D

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 12:13 AM
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my

the hitch pin mod is great for giving a little more flex up front. Frees up the front axle nicely. I'd drop the front swaybar in a second. If you have to do any real wild emergency moves, you're probably gonna tip a lifted 80 anyway. For sliders, I've been looking at the ones 4xinnovations has. They look pretty decent and have some really good cat protection built in (which is also helpful if you live in Houston and people steal Toyota catalytic convertors like it's cool )

Jason

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notyourmomslx450 View Post
my

the hitch pin mod is great for giving a little more flex up front. Frees up the front axle nicely. I'd drop the front swaybar in a second. If you have to do any real wild emergency moves, you're probably gonna tip a lifted 80 anyway. For sliders, I've been looking at the ones 4xinnovations has. They look pretty decent and have some really good cat protection built in (which is also helpful if you live in Houston and people steal Toyota catalytic convertors like it's cool )
Yes, the hitch pin pulled does add some extra flex up front but I still need to shave a little off the top of the control arms to prevent the tie rod from rubbing. I have heard this is fairly common...especially when your caster is corrected with plates like mine. Might also be because i have a Marlin tie rod and its a little thicker.

As far as the sliders go there are several out there. I had Jason Demello help me with mine.

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 02:40 PM
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I fab'd my own sliders and some armor... pics in my build thread, link in the sig.

far as swaybars... removed mine within the first week, never put them back on. doesnt really bother me or affect my driving.

also look into armoring the rear lower control arm frame mount... tends to get beat up.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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4xInnovations makes 80-series Rock Sliders ($550 + shipping):
http://4xinnovations.com/pages/guarding/sliders.htm

~Jamie
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-11-2010, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAR_Squid79 View Post
4xInnovations makes 80-series Rock Sliders ($550 + shipping):
http://4xinnovations.com/pages/guarding/sliders.htm
that is a nice deal!

I don't know a ton about other vehicles' sliders/frames, but I think the 80 sliders cost so much because the geometry is more complicated than say a tacoma that's nice n straight.

I just did mine and it cost ~300 for metal and pc, but it took me FO EVA to do (first fab project) so I see where the $$ comes in (jig must be pretty complicated)



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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2011, 08:18 PM
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white-knuckle offroad has some great sliders



these things are built like a tank..http://white-knuckleoffroad.com/toyotafzj80.htm

1994 fzj 80 L/C OME lift dual batteries arb lockers (thank the wife for that) white-knuckle sliders 35 nittos arb bumper and icom 208H dual band and a yaesu ft-897d HF rig and gun rack
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 02:25 PM
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Clarification...

Taking off your anti sway bar does not give you more wheel travel, more articulation yes... But not more wheel travel. If you want more wheel travel, you need different springs and shocks...



Going with the hitch pin quick disconnect is a great idea to temporary disconnect the anti sway bar... But make sure you hook them back up while on the street...

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