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Shade Tree SAS 03 Reg Cab

7K views 34 replies 3 participants last post by  Harmonytaco 
#1 ·
Starting a SAS on my 2003 regular cab Tacoma. I have been wheeling it with 33s and a rear locker for years. I am swapping in a Dana 44 and 60 from a 78-79 F250. It will probably take me all winter to get this done but thought I would start a thread.

All ifs parts, rear locking axle and tires 33 bfg km2s tons of tread, rims will be for sale as they come off so if anybody wants them give me a reasonable offer and we can work something out.

How it pretty much sits now.



Front axle hanger frenched into trailgear bumper hanger that I am reenforcing and using as the front crossmember. Hanger is 1 3/4" higher and forward about 2" of where it would be using FROR hanger under existing frame. Going to fully weld everything to frame it's just bolted for fitting. Got a Lincoln 180c yesterday.





Front axle with tie rod on. Interference but I think I can make it work.



Hope to keep it reasonably low and run 37" KM2s.

Will need lots of advice along the way.
 
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#2 ·


Got the IFS off and spring hanger crossmember welded on. Still need to cut and grind welds off of frame. Sawzall with torch blades made short work of getting the majority of the brackets cut off.

I need to get some better jack stands before crawling under truck to change oil pan and grind.
 
#4 ·
awesome to see another reg cab getting a SAS :D

What springs are those again? You should be able to keep it low with the way you did the spring hanger. If not, after using it for a while you might have to remove a couple of leafs from each pack.

Looking good.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Pitman arm is hitting the tie-rod link on the high steer. This is happening when going straight and hitting big dip in the trail at speeds above about 5 mph. I can flex the axle out till the leaf springs are flat and I get no interference but a big bump and there is contact. I plan to raise the box about 2” using some 3/8” box tube and notching the bottom of the frame. I might move the drag link end below the pitman to keep lower notch to a minimum. This should give me plenty of room and keep everything from rubbing. Still need to get a shock tower in there as well and prep and coat everything proper.
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#20 ·
Waiting on some DOM tubing to arrive to raise the steering box. Put the passenger shock setup on this afternoon. I have got the taco lean bad. Probably 2” difference. If I use all the same measurements on the front driver shock and bump my frame will be barely touching the bump stop. Going to have to try to add a leaf or two to the packs on the front and rear driver springs. The bump stops compress a bunch but I would like to have more up travel than drivers side it going to give me.
 
#21 ·
Another issue I am trying to fix is the front brakes do not work. The HD Dana 44 has the big two piston calipers. I have air free fluid coming out of the bleeders and seem to have good pressure. Can’t get the pistons to move any. I had the originals on there and the cups would not move so I thought they were seized. I bought remanufactured calipers and am not having any front braking. I can lock the backs up no problem. Added a proportioning valve to try to get more fluid to the front and it didnt help. Going to start at the master cylinder and bleed everything again. Not sure what the problem is. Could be need more fluid displacement but not sure if I need a bigger master cylinder or not?
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#27 ·
Battery tray reinforcement, lines drawn for frame cut, and shock tower. There’s a lot to get stuck in the drives side. Gained about 2” plus so tie rod has more up travel and won’t hit pitman. I can lift tire tire 2’ and not hit but a straight on bump lifts tie rod into pitman.
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