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post #31 of 813 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Got a little work done over the weekend, scraping (chiseling) that factory tar mat off the floorboard was a total bitch!!!!!! Got the interior about ready to lineX and start the cage build, still have to pull the dash sometime soon. Plan on going with two Mastercraft Baja RS recliners up front and one matching fixed in the rear, all mounted to the cage. Going with a tan LineX on the floor and back wall and will be leaving most of the factory interior out for good.

Also received a Saginaw (Cherokee) steering box that Tom Allen from PSC sent me to play with. As of now, the plan is to fab up a rectangular tube section with two bolt sleeves the same width as the frame rail and weld it to the top of the frame to catch the two upper mounting holes on the steering gear, then sleeving two more about mid-way up the factory frame to catch the two lower mounting holes. Even though the sector shaft is centered on the leaf spring, it appears that the box will be far enough forward that they won't hit.....hopefully!

So far I'm leaning toward either Poison Spyder SpyderLocks or TrailReady HD17 wheels this time around.










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post #32 of 813 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 05:08 PM
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Looking good man. How much trouble is the Saginaw box. I am thinking of doing my Dad's like that since we are narrowing those axles so much. As far as the Trailready's I think Chris had trouble with them shearing the bolts off.

-Trent

1998 SR5 TeRD 4x4, Front Pro Rock D60 w/ Dedenbear kingpin and ARB locker, Rear 35 spline D60, locked, rear disks, 4.7 crawlbox, 40" Swamper LTB's, 17" Stazworks double beadlocks, 9000# T-Max comp winch etc...


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post #33 of 813 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 06:47 PM
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I remember chris bitching about that all the time. Alot of people run them with no problem though so who knows.

And johnathan, the tundra is looking badass man.

Toy-97 4runner limited... linked, chopped, locked, and caged.

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post #34 of 813 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 01 Tundra View Post
Plan on going with two Mastercraft Baja RS recliners up front and one matching fixed in the rear, all mounted to the cage.

I officially hate you!

...Those are the EXACT seats I've been drooling over for 2 years! Even the color I want!


~Jamie
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Mountain: She can crawl it.
Ass: She can haul it.


"Roads? Where we're going we don't need . . . roads."
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post #35 of 813 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 09:03 PM
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For now, but I'm toying with the idea of linking it front & rear.....
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Originally Posted by Kaistie View Post
Nice garage. I can't wait to design my garage. Oh, link that bitch from the get go. No sense in doing it twice...
Oh yea...... §XX§ are the only way to go........

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post #36 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Looking good man. How much trouble is the Saginaw box. I am thinking of doing my Dad's like that since we are narrowing those axles so much. As far as the Trailready's I think Chris had trouble with them shearing the bolts off.

-Trent
The saginaw box should work out pretty good, I will have to extend my frame up to catch all the mounting bolts, but if I hadn't had the Toy box mounted up prior it would have been a lot easier.

These are the new HD17's I'm getting, a few rigs on the UA were running them and had no problems at all with them.

I used to had grade 8 bolt heads shear off my Allied bead locks all the time, it happens when the bolt heads don't sit flat on the ring due to ring deflection (sometimes caused by over tightening), cause forces in multiple directions and pops the heads off the bolts. I have another friend that has the exact same thing happen to his Allieds every time he wheels it. Having a heavier rig that's also driven on the road doesn't help matters either.

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post #37 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-08-2008, 11:40 AM
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Seriously awesome Tundra. Stickers or not, sweet build.
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post #38 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-12-2008, 08:36 PM
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Updates?

~Jamie
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Supercharged. Locked. Armored.


Mountain: She can crawl it.
Ass: She can haul it.


"Roads? Where we're going we don't need . . . roads."
~Dr. Emmett L. Brown

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post #39 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-19-2008, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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So, I tried the Hi-Lift jack bead break method and couldn't make it work and didn't want to use the "run-over" method because I wanted to have a little more control over the process since there were Stauns inside. My last ditch effort was to buy this little $34 bead breaker tool from my local Northern Tool store, which I definitely had my doubts about. Well.....once you learn how to use this little jewel it is tha shiat :smokin:! I broke all five of my wheels down last night in about 2 hrs. I only had to use it at one point on the tire per side and then just stood on the tire to pop the bead the rest of the way around. Figured I would share this little bit info because the bead breaker is small enough to easily be stored in a tool bag and is fairly inexpensive.......








and finally got my rattle can art finished up.......





Got my new axles home on Friday and started mounting them up to see if I could make them work out with my leaf springs for the time being, front looks like it would work if I can find a slightly shorter pitman arm. The rear axle is a different story though since my rear springs are still located in the factory location with a 48" spread and the springs are against the calipers. I was really wanting to stick with the leafs for a little while and the link it once I saved up the cash, so I ordered the BTF caliper mounts so I can clock the calipers to the back side of the axle and still keep them fairly high, so that should take care of everything. Thought about inboarding my springs in the back since they have the factory 48" spread, but that would be a lot of work for a temporary fix......
















I'm still waiting on the Atlas and my transmission is still riding around in the back of my other Tundra, so until I get all that junk thrown back in I really can't do a whole lot anyways. My new U-bolts should be here tomorrow so I can start grinding/drilling on the front housing to get the driver's side inboard U-bolt installed. Still have to pull my Howe TC steering pump off and send it to PSC so they can come up with a better solution there and hopefully my new wheels will be hitting my door step in another week or two......lots of little shit to keep me busy :smokin:! I've been doing a lot or rewiring, painting, etc to clean up stuff that I've been adding to this mess for the past 7 yrs and also finally got around to ripping out all the factory rear brake lines and running one new one back there.

Spent a little time the other day to relocate my Sirius antenna from the roof of the cab to recessed into the windshield cowl......yeah I'm bored!


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Last edited by 01 Tundra; 08-20-2008 at 01:00 PM.
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post #40 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-19-2008, 08:04 PM
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I was wrong it is the scout II box that has the reversed pitman arm. That's why I wasn't understanding you earlier.


1998 SR5 TeRD 4x4, Front Pro Rock D60 w/ Dedenbear kingpin and ARB locker, Rear 35 spline D60, locked, rear disks, 4.7 crawlbox, 40" Swamper LTB's, 17" Stazworks double beadlocks, 9000# T-Max comp winch etc...


My other SAC

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post #41 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-19-2008, 11:07 PM
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Looks very badass man.
I have been meaning to ask you what was wrong with the Staun's I thought they were supposed to be the shit since they are a both side bead lock.
Thanks for the info on the bead breaker tool. Might have to pick one of those up.

98 Tacoma 4wd xcab Sr5 2.7 auto, 265/75/R16 Kelly Safari TSR's, Mossyrock's Sliders, 881's and billy's, OME dakar leafs and shocks.
83 4wd pickup 22r some sort of lift, 5.29's, 36 tsl's, lockrite and spool, and a complete disregard for body damage alot more mods in the works
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post #42 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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I don't really have anything against the Staun's, other than they are a pain in the ass to install and remove. Since I have gone to 8-lug I wanted to try out a different wheel and I was impressed with the TrailReady HD17's that a few guys were running on the UA. I will be leaving the nasty UT orange off mine though..........


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post #43 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 09:08 AM
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Man, your tundra is under the knife yet again! That's awesome man! If you ever get bored, I can ship you out my truck and have your way with it.


Am I seeing this right? Is that lower shock mount on the link???

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post #44 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 02:29 PM
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I love your rig and I wanna go out with you sometime, you gonna be at SETO?

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I will be leaving the nasty UT orange off mine though..........
But you live in TN you gotta be a Vol fan

I am General Corrosion

Corrosion: - 97 4runner 2.7 (fat and slow) lost but not forgotten
Shorter Bus: - 98 taco 2.7 300k miles (fat, old and slow) lost but not forgotten
Short Round: - 97 single cab (2' of sheet metal) Now doing pizza delivery
Too nice: - 99 4runner 3.4 5spd ski/expo wagon
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post #45 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 04:01 PM
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I love your rig and I wanna go out with you sometime, you gonna be at SETO?

Chris do you realize what you just said.

Besides he is a Golden Eagle fan.

98 Tacoma 4wd xcab Sr5 2.7 auto, 265/75/R16 Kelly Safari TSR's, Mossyrock's Sliders, 881's and billy's, OME dakar leafs and shocks.
83 4wd pickup 22r some sort of lift, 5.29's, 36 tsl's, lockrite and spool, and a complete disregard for body damage alot more mods in the works
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post #46 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ha...that didn't sound right did it !

.....well chris, I prefer red heads....but if you put out on the first date I can overlook that...bah ha ha ha!

Naw just messing with ya..... yeah - I as soon as I get my junk put back together I would like to make a run to Gray Rock or something like that with the group .

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post #47 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-20-2008, 09:31 PM
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what is the trick on installing stauns beadlocks
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post #48 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-21-2008, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Best thing to do is watch their video online and take your time, after the first one they will get a little quicker....

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post #49 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-21-2008, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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I've been trying to figure out my steering, I really want to lose the ES2233L TRE on the passenger side that my drag link used to attach to and connect the drag link directly to the passenger side steering arm. Only problem is the longest Saginaw pitman that I know of is 6-4/3", like my Wagoneer pitman and with my tie rod attachment point being 5-3/8" from the center line of the king pin, my drag link attachment point would be around 7-5/8" to allow the TRE's to have enough clearance. I imagine that I will lose some steering capability having the drag link attachment out that far and sure don't want to experiment too much by drilling random holes in these arms. I am also not sure if having the tie rod that close will result in enough reduced leverage to affect the steering force.

I am going to extend the frame notch a little farther forward to clear the pitman and if I run a 1-1/2" drop and bring my drag link in from the bottom I will have enough clearance over top of the leafs and have the DL & TR almost parallel. I guess I could tack weld some dowel rod from the pitman to the arm and see if it has full steer capability. I will also need to determine the max turning angle that can be achieved prior to the axle shafts binding (I've heard somewhere around 37 degrees).




















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post #50 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-21-2008, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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After looking at ORD's steering arm set up, I may be ok with what I have. They know their shit on full size GM stuff and mine looks like it would lay out very similar in distance......

theirs



mine



theirs



mine



theirs



Mine


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post #51 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-21-2008, 07:44 PM
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That was Toyotakrawler's truggy build. I think his biggest problem was room. But the whole setup seemed to take quite a beating and work fine.

-Trent

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=20071

Quote:
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Man, your tundra is under the knife yet again! That's awesome man! If you ever get bored, I can ship you out my truck and have your way with it.


Am I seeing this right? Is that lower shock mount on the link???



~Miguel

1998 SR5 TeRD 4x4, Front Pro Rock D60 w/ Dedenbear kingpin and ARB locker, Rear 35 spline D60, locked, rear disks, 4.7 crawlbox, 40" Swamper LTB's, 17" Stazworks double beadlocks, 9000# T-Max comp winch etc...


My other SAC

My out of date Website under construction

For those of you interested in Throttle body spacers:
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post #52 of 813 (permalink) Old 08-25-2008, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Got a little further along with the steering over the weekend. Set up some test linkage to see what I could get out of the 6-3/4" Wagoneer pitman arm, ends up that with the drag link mounted out to 7-7/8" from the king pin center line on the passenger side steering arm I'm getting within 1/8" of full stroke on the box in each direction before hitting the stops and 34 degrees of steering each direction (after cutting the stops down about 1/4"). The axle shaft ears have been somewhat clearanced with a grinder and they are close enough that I had to use R&P set-up paint to make sure they weren't actually touching at full lock. I'm not sure what kind of turning angle I should be shooting for, but I think I'm pretty close to the limit at 34 degrees without taking a grinder to the shafts some more? I have read that 36 degrees is the max for a D60 without doing some pretty serious machining on the shafts, if that's the case then I will most likely call it good. I'm curious of what other people are getting so I'm going to search around a little.

Turns out that 4" x 6" x 1/8" rectangular tubing fits over a Tundra frame perfectly, so I cut the bottom out of a section of tubing, welded in the two upper sleeves, sleeved one new hole through the frame rail, and was able to reuse one of the previous sleeved holes from the Toyota box. It's damn sure not pretty, but will hold up and do it's job.
















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post #53 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-02-2008, 10:05 PM
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nice to know my work area isn't the only one that looks like that.
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post #54 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 08:00 AM
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Hey Jonathan, I talked to Tom Alen at PSC and he said you were trying that new bo he has. I tried to fit it on mine but there just isn't enogh room between my motor and the frame to fit it. I hope you can make it work 'cause that thing is sweet.

Looks good my friend. Keep up the good work.

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post #55 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-03-2008, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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yeah, it's all going to fit pretty good. I'm waiting on them to send the box back to me ported and ready to bold on so I can proceed with finishing up the steering. I got all the brake lines ran and system bled over the wkend. Talked to Atlas yesterday and they are apparently waiting on some bearing to show up to get mine finished up and out the door, currently trying to come up with the cash so I can get this tranny out of the bed of my other Tundra and sent off to IPT to have it built up. PM should be receiving my Solid high steer arms and caps today to do the springless conversion for my king pins.

I'm kinda at a stopping point until I get the t-case & tranny back in, have the axles bolted up but can't really do any welding on shock tabs or spring perches until I know where to point them.....did finally get time to clean up the shop....can't find shit now !

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post #56 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Not tech....but it's part of the process, so work with me :smokin:.

So I'm toying with ideas to give my rig a fresh look, but so far I'm not really sold on any of them. My orginal plan was to paint the rock rings on my TrailReady's black and leave the polished auminum wheel portion alone, but then got to thinking about painting the wheel black and not painting the aluminum rock ring - would be lower maintainance as far as rock rash is concerned.

Another option I've considered is painting the hood within the body lines and the roof some color, painting the rock rings to match, and painting the wheels black.

Any opinions????


Was originally thinking about painting the rings, like this - but black. Or reversing the colors and painting the inside black:



Here's what the rings look like natural:



Or possibly something a little different.......






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post #57 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 10:47 AM
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I say paint the wheel and ring black. Line-X the hood and roof black. However, I think fuscia might suit you better

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post #58 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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The primer gray (or possibly O.D. green) is looking pretty hot actually .......






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post #59 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 03:00 PM
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i like the blue alot

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post #60 of 813 (permalink) Old 09-11-2008, 03:14 PM
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I don't like the blue.

I say flat desert tan, or flat gray for the stripe. Powder coat the wheels to match, and leave the rock-rings unfinished.

~Jamie
2000 Tacoma TRD 4WD PreRunner
Supercharged. Locked. Armored.


Mountain: She can crawl it.
Ass: She can haul it.


"Roads? Where we're going we don't need . . . roads."
~Dr. Emmett L. Brown

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