Well here is my build up thread, no it's not even close to being done but at least it's getting there. It's a little hard to get a whole lot done when the only time I get is when I come home from school on the weekends. Anyway here is the spluge. I wasn't going to do my swap until sometime next spring/summer but when my rack and pinion decide to spit it's guts out all over the place I wasn't about to waste the time or money to fix it so I said screw it and started removing the IFS. Sorry no pictures from the IFS removal, to messy to full with a nice camera and I figured there are enough pictures out there.
And yes this part blows hard core. You can see where the motor mount is cut and I plan on adding a plate something shaped like an upside down "T" to strengthen it back up.
Next, I started trying to figure out what to do about my links and stuff. What I came up with was ditching my stock cross-member and using a FROR crossmember so that I could build a low profile cross-member/attachment point for my upper link. I figured while I was doing the swap I could build a belly pan at the same time. So the idea I had was to build the new cross member like an "I" underneath the truck and it should be flat except where the T case is but I'll try and come up with some cool triangular stuff coming down to protect it. I figured it would be better than that stock t case skid... :finga: Hopefully one day when I can afford dual's and I can clock it totally flat. I plan on making the belly pan run from links to links, and it will be made into two panels so I can lift easier. The "I" beam framing for the belly pan will be made into two pieces the front "T" section will be bolted in and removable, while the rear _ of the "I" will be welded in, this piece was a retarded tight fit under the drive shaft.
framing 1"x3"X.120 wall and the skid will be 3/16" This will get made later on...
PRETTY TIGHT :supz: (about 1/8" maybe 1/4")
I will have the pan come out underneath the frame and have some type of rounded carrage bolts to hold pan in place, I wish It was thick enough to counter sink the bolts, oh well.
The oil pan was not to difficult, but I will say that I didn't see a whole lot of info on the best way to do this part when I was looking on the internet. So here is a little trick I learned and it worked great and hopefully will help out those who are going SAS in the future... yes you all will go this route one day don't try and deny it :finga: Taking out the old pan and putting in the new one easy, just take the little plate off the front of the bell housing and take out all of the old bolts and have fun prying off the old pan. Next get out the plug where the new union will go. Here is about the best I can do to show you where this is, mine was covered in God knows what so I had to look for a few minutes.
THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO TAKE OUT
you can see where I tried to get it with every kind of pliers and vise grips known to man, but it didn't help.
You will need a 1"x.25"x4" bolt, washer and nut.
Use the bolt to hammer out the old thing from the bottom, don't smash your new oil stuff, or just leave off till after this step. Then use the bolt, washer,nut and a wrench to get the new union pressed in. I saw a bunch off people take loose the moter mount to try and press in the new one. This is a lot easier and very fast.
Some idiot giving me a hand.
Here is a good picture of where the new dip stick tube goes, very easy to get in there.
My new brother-in-law, Andrew, came over and I let him go to town on my front fenders. I told him what I was wanting, at least a general description, and let him get on it. I am planning on moving the battery to the back and building some kind of snorkel so the inner fenders are going to be cut out as well but I have been waiting on some sheet metal, time, and after the links are built and installed to see exactly how much to cut out.
I hope to run a tube right along this new body line to help protect these oh so expensive/high quality fenders :supz: I quess we'll see how that turns out. I still need to get some of the door trim crap to cover the cut edge of these fenders. Those inner fenders are not going to be fun. :butthead:
I was wanting to make my PS resevoir larger as well, ram assist, so I went over what I needed with Andrew and he came up with this. Works for me, and will hold plenty of fluid. I was affraid my MIG would blow this little thing to pieces and he has access to TIG.
This is the part of the story where I got myself in WAY over my head :boom: I have been waiting on some tabs, plating and other misc. items I am having made at a friends machine shop. I decided that I didn't have enough stuff to deal with right know so I went out in the garage and took the bed off and promptly chopped the frame off about 14" behind the cab. :axe: Yep, Shit has definitly hit the fan now.
I figured I might as well build the tube bed and exo at the same time. What the hell.
Capping the frame
I tried to sketch up some ideas for the cage, but my mind is just compacted full of all of these ideas so I figured I'd just start going with it and this is how the rear is starting to take form. Hopefully I can get a lot of the rear bed/cage done by the time I get the tabs and stuff to work on my swap.
The floor will be about the height of the top tube and the gas tank and batteries will hopefully be mounted to the frame right under the flooring and then enclosed to to hide them. Then the tool box will be mounted in the back along with enough room for a cooler right at the end of the bed. I plan on running another tube about 10-12" above the floor and skinning it to hold stuff in.
48" from rear of cab
33" wide at the rear
1.50"X.120" DOM tubing
A lot more tubing to come...