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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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best air filter

I have been searching google and the ttora forum here to find any information on the best drop in air filter. I have had a drop in k&n for 6 years which equates to about 80 k miles. Its pretty nasty looking and I have never cleaned it with the k&n cleaning kit, only beat it out and blown it with an air hose.

So what do you guys recommend for an air filter.

I may just clean the k&n or either get a new filter of some sort.

I would like to see some tests done for air flow and air filtration to help determine which air filter to get next. I have looked at bobtheoil guys website and he ahs an air test but I didnt really find what i wanted.

Any input woudl be great.

Thanks

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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 09:16 PM
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Read any of this? http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduc...in air filter:


Air filter of choice?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...o-you-use.html

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ur a fuckin idiot so shut the fuck up.
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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 10:09 PM
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The best drop in air filter is either a good quality stock replacement like a Wix or napa Gold, or a factory Toyota filter. K&Ns don't filter worth a damn, and I've never put them in anything that made 2 cents worth of improvement. Modern engines rarely benefit from modifications to the intake or the exhaust unless corresponding improvements are made to the head. You can't move anything more through the engine than the head will allow. The engine used in gadgets tests was supercharged. That's a whole nother deal. My advice is to buy paper and spend your money on something that matters,...like maybe one of those christmas tree air fresheners

A word of caution. I've seen lots of guys blow out filters with compressed air. It's a really bad idea. The compressed air can force open the pores in the filter and lower the efficiency of filtration. When it's dirty wash it and air dry it, or if paper you can tap it to remove the worst dust. I just throw mine away when they are dirty.

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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 10:18 PM
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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 11:00 PM
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I just throw mine away when they are dirty.
Word.

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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 01:31 AM
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Its pretty nasty looking and I have never cleaned it with the k&n cleaning kit, only beat it out and blown it with an air hose.
That's pretty much the best way to ruin a K&N filter. Might as well trash it or get it warrantied then sell it on Ebay. I use a foam filter made by Uni which was much better then my old Amsoil filter and way better then any K&N filter. If you want a good filter, then the stock paper filters are the way to go.
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 09:32 AM
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Might as well stuff an oily rag into your airbox, if you are going to run a K&N.

Stock paper filters, replace as needed...

PS. I always laugh when I see some douche with a K&N sticker on their vehicle. They think an airfilter is worth bragging about.

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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 12:02 PM
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PS. I always laugh when I see some douche with a K&N sticker on their vehicle. They think an airfilter is worth bragging about.
i take offense to that . I only use a drop in K%N because i know in the long run its "cheaper to keep her." I know its not going to give me 20hp or nothing, but the price of replacing AF's once or twice a year adds up over the years. just my .

PS. the sticker is on air box usually, not the truck, just to tell any mech they don't need to check the box if i ever have to have it in for service i can't do myself.

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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 01:00 PM
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Haters I've had my K&N since 2001 with no problems.

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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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i take offense to that . I only use a drop in K%N because i know in the long run its "cheaper to keep her." I know its not going to give me 20hp or nothing, but the price of replacing AF's once or twice a year adds up over the years. just my .

PS. the sticker is on air box usually, not the truck, just to tell any mech they don't need to check the box if i ever have to have it in for service i can't do myself.
Yea cheaper is the route I went before college. My brother has had a k&n in his 93 f 150 for 9 years his truck now has 389k on it prolly 170k when he put it in. just trying to see what route to go next bc i dotn wanna clean the k&n and its very dirty

I havent read the links you put up tacoma jake but will be shortly thanks for the replies

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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-13-2012, 01:54 PM
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Haters I've had my K&N since 2001 with no problems.
i have to...


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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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so narrowing it down to AFE Pro Dry, Stock, or the Amsoil. i really enjoy not buying an air filter every year. Just another thing to forget about.

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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 05:16 PM
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so narrowing it down to AFE Pro Dry, Stock, or the Amsoil. i really enjoy not buying an air filter every year. Just another thing to forget about.
reading everything, and owning a K&N drop in many times, i'm actually thinking of trying an Amsol. I don't believe they make them for the 3.4 anymore (i emailed their customer service department today to verify) but if they do i'm more than willing to buy one. My next choice would be the AFE Pro dry as well. Going to remove my intake elbow instead of doing the deckplate mod (as i've done it 2 times already and am being lazy and dont wana do it again) and trying it out.

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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 06:20 PM
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AEM Dry flow work great for cone style re-washable filters.

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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 06:36 PM
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You idiots must be really damn cheap if your bitching about buying one or two stock Toyota $14 air filters every YEAR.
I buy one at least once a month.

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post #16 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 06:47 PM
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You idiots must be really damn cheap if your bitching about buying one or two stock Toyota $14 air filters every YEAR.
I buy one at least once a month.
I've spent $ 00.00 in 12 years

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post #17 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 06:50 PM
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I've spent $ 00.00 in 12 years
Might be why your junk is more shiny than mine.

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post #18 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 07:02 PM
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Sigh...here we go again...

I've had the K&N FIPK since '03 and never had an issue with it. I have a spare cone filter that goes in while the other gets cleaned/dryed, re-oiled and allowed to sit.
It only took me one summer to stop buying OE replacements after going through 4 of them in a couple months of wheeling. When properly maintained and oiled they do their job as advertized. (blowing them out with compressed air completely ruins it, by the way) I still have the original filter along with the spare. I usually clean the filter once a year which is what's recommended by K&N. After spending some time with an old fart sand rail racer on the subject of K&N vs stock I was turned to the dark side I think he pulled an eye muscle by rolling his too far back in his head when I described all the bashing I'd read on ttora back then; then the lecture began...
Are the newer no-oil cones better? possibly, but you have to be careful with which one/type you use...they are NOT all the same and some of them are crap.

So, those in the desert racing profession swear by this type of filter and have been using them for longer than most of you have been on the planet. Hmm.

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post #19 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 08:01 PM
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Here's a shitty cell phone picture. I run one of those filters. Got it at Advance for $15, they come pre-oiled. The cleaning kit for them was nearly $30 so I just throw it away and buy a new one every year. The stock filter was $15 when my truck had the stock air intake. I just unscrew the top of my lid and undo the clamp, slide the new one on!

I wouldn't say it's the best filter on the market, but it works for me and my intake tube/throttle body are always dirt free!


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post #20 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 08:09 PM
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Its pretty nasty looking and I have never cleaned it with the k&n cleaning kit, only beat it out and blown it with an air hose.
Blowing it out with an air hose is a big FAIL for you. Ruins the filter, and void's K&N's warranty...

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post #21 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 08:14 PM
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So, those in the desert racing profession swear by this type of filter and have been using them for longer than most of you have been on the planet. Hmm.
Didn't read where you called out the fail first I guess..

I agree with this statement, but I had a K&N on my '86 22R and it didn't seal worth a fuck in the housing, dirt/water always getting past it. I eventually put RTV on both edges and stuck it in. When it was ruined I bought a Fram (lame) but the rubber on it was pliable enough to seal the filter completely.

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post #22 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-14-2012, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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yea i m getting the point that I shouldn't have blown it out. Glad I mentioned it so I will know from now on. Never read the warranty when I purchased it 5-6 years ago so it is what it is.

As always thanks for all the info guys.

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post #23 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 09:35 AM
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yea i m getting the point that I shouldn't have blown it out. Glad I mentioned it so I will know from now on. Never read the warranty when I purchased it 5-6 years ago so it is what it is.

As always thanks for all the info guys.
lol. Oh, just got an email back from amsoil about the filter. according to their tech support they no longer make them. Guess if i want to try a dry one its AFE for me.

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post #24 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 05:27 PM
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yea i m getting the point that I shouldn't have blown it out. Glad I mentioned it so I will know from now on. Never read the warranty when I purchased it 5-6 years ago so it is what it is.

As always thanks for all the info guys.
When I put a new 3.4 in my Taco a couple summers back I did that to the air filter that was on it.. (DOH!) I blew it out and then my buddy was like, nice job jackass!

Everyone does something stupid, just some more than others.

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post #25 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-15-2012, 07:18 PM
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I've been running a K&N for years now with no issues, although I do see many people get carried away with excess oil on the filters which gets all over the MAF sensor and throws a P0171. I always wipe mine down with a paper towel to gather excess oil after a cleaning, and that hasn't happened to me yet.

I hear good things about the AFE filters, but haven't ran one yet. I like the idea of a "dry" cleanable filter, so I might give that a go next time around.
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post #26 of 51 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 08:50 AM
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It all depends on what you want from an air filter. The K&N has long been used in competition both on and offroad. The primary reason is that it flows more air which is a benefit to a high performance engine. It makes little or no difference on a stock engine. What little difference it may make is at higher RPM than anyone on the street uses. The only engines that I usd the K&N to any advantage had flow benched heads, cams, and polished intakes.

The filtration efficiency of a K&N is not as good as a quality paper filter by any stretch. People accept that in exchange for better air flow because typically high performance applications never see the mileage that a street driven engine will. This engines rarely see 50K before they are torn down anyway, so the lower efficiency is not an issue.

I was racing in the Arizona desert when these filters became widely accepted for desert racing. It was not because they had a better filter efficiency. It was because they can be caked with dirt that would completely block a paper filter and still allow enough air flow for high performance. That still came at the cost of passing more fine particulate. It was a significant advantage on extended races to not have to service the airfilter. Even at that, We all started running foam prefilters to try and keep the worst of the mess off the gauze.

I do like the fact that the filter can be washed, but I quit using them in stock street applications years ago because the dyno tests I did showed little or nothing, and I sure couldn't feel anything There are many racing components that have downsides for street driven vehicles. If you want the best filtration for an engine that you still hope to be driving at 300K, that will be a good quailty paper filter. If you believe the story about better airflow on a stock engine and like being able to wash the filter, then the K&N is for you. Don't kid yourself about the filtering effciency though.

You cannot inprove efficiency on any filter without creating restrictions. It is the restrictions that capture the dirt!

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post #27 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:16 AM
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I've had my drop-in K&N in my '05 V6 since the day it was available. Every 30k I run the cleaning kit on it. Never used compressed air - I didn't want to need to buy a new filter. It's amazing the dark junk that pours off the filter.
Paper filters got real expensive off-roading.
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post #28 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 10:36 AM
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I just got a replacement cone for my FIPK from AFE. Its a little smaller than the old K&N but that won't make any difference to this motor. Their Pro-Dry line uses no oil and is supposed to filter 99.2%... we'll see. I like the idea of having a cleanable filter with no oil.

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post #29 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 12:36 PM
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I just got a replacement cone for my FIPK from AFE. Its a little smaller than the old K&N but that won't make any difference to this motor. Their Pro-Dry line uses no oil and is supposed to filter 99.2%... we'll see. I like the idea of having a cleanable filter with no oil.
Sooo... since you won't be needing yer fipk element(s) any longer...
can I have one ?


I had 10 years on my original fipk element...
and then I found it had dry rotted some on the underside.
Likely due to leaving it in the same mounting position all the time.
With specific pleated material at the underside.

I learned... that's not a good idea...
and that anytime I might clean it now...
I change it so the lower side pleats would be turned up from the bottom
and give it a better chance of allowing any accumulated moisture
to dry out.
I now rotate it on occasion... even if no maintenance is required.

K&N sent me a new element free and no charge for shipping.
Sooo... I'm sure I'm good for at least another 10 years.

But it sure would be nice to have a spare
for the end of the weekend's trail dust and the ride home

What say you Chris ?

================================

BTW... I think these fipk elements work purdy damn good...
If'n you know how to use them correctly...
and realize they filter better when left on the dirty side.

I think most folk over maintain them and over oil them...
and that's where they go wrong.

The drop in K&N's are another story...
as the pleat holes on those are larger... and there are less of them
Not the same beast as the fipk's element by any means.
Another drawback is that the filter pleat surface is too close in line
with the maf... and any over oiling there...
And the maf and intake tube are coated with the crap.

My fipk and it's element have always kept the maf and intake tube
just as clean (or cleaner) then when I used the stock air box and the oem fuzzy.
I checked that myself while testing real world conditions
swapping between the AB/DPM and the fipk.

To the nekid eye... the fuzzy allowed more talc into the intake...
then did my properly oiled fipk element.

So... fark the hater's and the sheeple with their paranoid science...
Change oil more frequently... and quit yer whining

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Truck build --- Trailer build
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post #30 of 51 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kauai
Posts: 3,179
You tell 'em TacoDell!

My intake tube/TB have always been clean and free from oil. No MAF issues or anything else. I would like a prefilter on there though.

That said, I would spend the $300 elsewhere if I could do it all over again. Same with that $100 TB spacer(good looking paper weight!)

2000 Tacoma
3.4 TRD
ICON C/O
Marlin Clutch
Wainiha is offline  
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