3.4 blown head gasket - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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3.4 blown head gasket

Long story short, my engine drank a little too much water,thought I hydrolocked it, but turns out that its just a blown head gasket(I hope). Pulled the engine apart, dryed everything out, changed the oil twice, changed the plugs, tried to start it and it ran like absolute shit. Let it sit for a couple of days then started it again and it idled perfectly, ran like nothing had ever happened, but then started dumping whitish smoke, which smelled sweet like antifreeze.

I'm hoping to tear into it this weekend, but have never done anything this extensive to my engine. I printed out the FSM removing the cylinder head, and have the haynes manual, but I'm looking for some input or advice from anyone who has done this before...or anyone that wants to lend a hand near the Sacramento area

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Last edited by KMillan; 02-16-2012 at 06:10 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2012, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Bump....the head gasket kit from Toyota should be in tomorrow

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 01:20 PM
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Just a heads up on the Toyota head gaskets, make sure you get the metal MLS gaskets from them. I think the old graphite composite ones have been superseded to the metal ones, but if not, make sure you get the metal ones. It is not that bad of a job. I rebuilt mine from the ground up with new Toyota bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets and oil pump. Make sure you follow the FSM, it has great step by step info if you have never done it before. I can get a HG job done in about a day, not accounting for the heads to be milled.

That's another thing, make sure you have your aluminum heads resurfaced at a machine shop. I have paid anywhere from $25-40 per head in the past. Usually they are the culprit of a blown head gasket, and replacing the gasket without milling the heads is a waste of time. Also make sure you have, or have access to a good torque wrench. Another good thing to look into is replacing your t-belt and water pump at the same time, as you will have to remove the belt to do this job, and you will have nice access to the water pump also.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minerdude1 View Post
Just a heads up on the Toyota head gaskets, make sure you get the metal MLS gaskets from them. I think the old graphite composite ones have been superseded to the metal ones, but if not, make sure you get the metal ones. It is not that bad of a job. I rebuilt mine from the ground up with new Toyota bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets and oil pump. Make sure you follow the FSM, it has great step by step info if you have never done it before. I can get a HG job done in about a day, not accounting for the heads to be milled.

That's another thing, make sure you have your aluminum heads resurfaced at a machine shop. I have paid anywhere from $25-40 per head in the past. Usually they are the culprit of a blown head gasket, and replacing the gasket without milling the heads is a waste of time. Also make sure you have, or have access to a good torque wrench. Another good thing to look into is replacing your t-belt and water pump at the same time, as you will have to remove the belt to do this job, and you will have nice access to the water pump also.

This is very good advice. Not sure how many miles you've on your rig BUT since you are set on replacing the parts - you might as well get into it good:

You can't buy an entire "set" from Toyota but other items to consider (that weren't mentioned):

* when the heads are off, get into checking the valve clearance. If specs are close I'd leave it, if they aren't as close as you're comfortable with, get your shims ordered so you will have them in time to get it assembled again.
* definitely replace the "rest" of the Tbelt/water pump components such as: tensioner, idlers, cam seals, crank seal...etc
* I'd also do the intake manifold and plenum gaskets
* fuel injector seals and o-rings,
* valve cover gasket setup (plug wells and end plugs)
* buy yourself a tube of toyota FIPG
* buy yourself a real manual so you can turn pages...etc
* fab up, rent, borrow or buy a crank holder tool
* consider pulling the whole motor and checking out/replacing your clutch and being able to work on everything while it is "out" of the engine bay, it makes things VERY easy
* get new head bolts

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 03:49 PM
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A thread for reference:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...&topic=2241.30

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Last edited by rworegon; 02-17-2012 at 08:42 PM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahrexion View Post
This is very good advice. Not sure how many miles you've on your rig BUT since you are set on replacing the parts - you might as well get into it good:

You can't buy an entire "set" from Toyota but other items to consider (that weren't mentioned):

* when the heads are off, get into checking the valve clearance. If specs are close I'd leave it, if they aren't as close as you're comfortable with, get your shims ordered so you will have them in time to get it assembled again.
* definitely replace the "rest" of the Tbelt/water pump components such as: tensioner, idlers, cam seals, crank seal...etc
* I'd also do the intake manifold and plenum gaskets
* fuel injector seals and o-rings,
* valve cover gasket setup (plug wells and end plugs)
* buy yourself a tube of toyota FIPG
* buy yourself a real manual so you can turn pages...etc
* fab up, rent, borrow or buy a crank holder tool
* consider pulling the whole motor and checking out/replacing your clutch and being able to work on everything while it is "out" of the engine bay, it makes things VERY easy
* get new head bolts
Yeah I should have mentioned about the valve clearances since I didn't do that on my motor, and it taps a little louder than stock. Also good advice about the lower intake manifold gaskets, replace those at a minimum. Check the condition of the metal upper ones, usually they are still in good shape. Injector o-rings are a good idea to replace. You are already in there, and they are cheap. I was just mentioning basics in my above post, basically any gasket/o-ring you deal with, it would be a good idea to replace it. Also I just assumed the idler and tension pulleys to come in the t-belt kit from Toyota.

Take not on all this stuff, and don't let it discourage you from doing it yourself. If you are mechanically inclined at all you should have no problem doing this, it just might take a little longer. Double, Triple, and Quadruple check your timing marks after getting the t-belt on since this will be your first time.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the info everyone. The kit came in from Toyota today, it should have every gasket/seal from the head up. Its got the fuel injector seals, the valve cover gaskets, and all that good stuff.



Looking at all that makes me feel a little intimidated, but I think we'll be able to get it done no problem. I was hoping to have it done on Sunday, but I'm going to have to wait 'till monday to have the heads resurfaced. I asked a guy at the Toyota parts counter what shop they use, and they referred me to Del's Machine Shop here in Sacramento, so at least I know I can trust the shop.

Here's what my oil looked like after draining it twice, flushing a couple quarts through to try and get rid of any more water, and letting it idle for about 30 seconds...



I think it might have a little bit of coolant in it

My engine just hit 130k, and I did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, cam and crankshaft seals, and the tensioner all at 105k so I'm not going to mess with any of that. I'll have to check the valve clearances when I'm in there just to make sure.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-17-2012, 08:35 PM
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Pick up a Knock Sensor Harness from the dealer $20 or so...it gets trashed from the heat in the valley under the lower manifold. Also, the water by-pass tube can sometimes have tiny holes in it....give it a close inspection.

Label hoses and matching fitting with a unique letter and put small parts and associated hardware in sequentially numbered zip lock bags....reverse sequence of bags on reassembly and match letter to letter on tubes.

Make sure you get the service bolt installed in each exhaust cam before you remove them from the head.
Page EM-33:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...ylhea/remo.pdf

I went through a HG/top end rebuild on mine a year ago due to two slight external HG coolant leaks.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Made a little progress tonight...



Going to try and tackle the timing belt and cams tomorrow

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-18-2012, 07:44 AM
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That water by-pass between the heads is known to get pin holes in the pipe and leak at the flange where it mounts with 2 screws.

To reseal it, EM-103,
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...ylblo/reas.pdf

Camshafts look nice and clean.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well got the heads off tonight...finally...



That damn crankshaft pulley was holding us up for a while, kept bending the bolts on our pulley tool until I found some grade 8 bolts to use instead.



Going to take the heads into the shop tomorrow to have them checked out and machined, then just have to wait to get new head bolts from Toyota and it will all start to go back together....and hopefully run

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rworegon View Post
That water by-pass between the heads is known to get pin holes in the pipe and leak at the flange where it mounts with 2 screws.

To reseal it, EM-103,
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repa...ylblo/reas.pdf

Camshafts look nice and clean.
I had mine leak where it bolts with one bolt at the water pump.


If you need any of the special FIPG for that connection, let me know. I still have the whole tube left

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well forgot to update this thread.

Got everything put back together with all the new parts last Thursday night at about 3 in the morning. We started it up once no problems, then called it a night. Came back out the next morning and it fired up and it ran like new.

Been driving it all weekend with absolutely no problems at all, it drives like nothing ever happened! Except for the fact that my engine got a little quieter, so now it sounds like I drive a Prius.

Going to wait until about the 500 mile mark to change my oil again, and just keep my fingers crossed until then. Hopefully I'll have no coolant loss or any other problems until then either.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 04:42 PM
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Awesome! Ready for the trails this year!

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 04:51 PM
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Hell ya! Glad you got it all put back together and she is purring like a kitten again. All in all how hard of a project would you say it was?
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 05:07 PM
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Hell ya! Glad you got it all put back together and she is purring like a kitten again. All in all how hard of a project would you say it was?
I'll admit it was alot easier than I thought it would be, but thats prob cause there was four of us working on it haha

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Hell ya! Glad you got it all put back together and she is purring like a kitten again. All in all how hard of a project would you say it was?
Honestly it wasn't as hard as I expected it to be. With the help of a few other guys it went pretty back together pretty fast. We started reinstalling everything at about 6 P.M, and had it running by 2:30 in the morning, with quite a few stupid mistakes...Like forgetting to reinstall that black plastic lower timing cover until after we had the crankshaft pulley all back together and torqued down, or spending about an hour just to get the timing belt all lined up

After being that deep in the engine, I'm fairly confident with the majority of my truck now...other than the transfer case. I wouldn't hesitate to tear it down to the block again now that I know what I'm doing. If you follow the FSM, and label everything you take off, you shouldn't have a problem with anything.

Quote:
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Awesome! Ready for the trails this year!
Hopefully some snow is coming!

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 05:47 PM
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Nice....nothing like getting it done!

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