ARB lockers–optimal set up???????????? - TTORA Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2006, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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ARB lockers–optimal set up????????????

Here is my quandry for this week.

I have an ARB in my Dana 44 and an ARB in my toy axle out back. I was given a compressor out of an RV a couple of years ago which I always planned to us with the lockers. I know it will put out at least 90 CFM's but other than that, I don't have any other information on the compressor.

What would be the best way of setting up my system. I have never set up ARB's before.

My original game plan is to mount the compressor on the passenger side fender well under the hood (already mounted there) run a hard line from the compressor to a regulator, then through an air filter down a hard line secured to the passenger side frame rail into a 2.5 gallon air tank mounted in the bed. From the air tank through another air filter that tees going to two seperate hard lines (one that will branch off to two quick disconnect for air tools) and the other that will branch off going to both the air lockers.

From the hard lines leading to the lockers, I was planning on going with "soft line" or coiled air hoses for a shorter distance to the axles.

but here lies my delimma. Is the air tank even needed? I have a CO2 bottle I can run air tools off of now. With the two lockers engaged will the compressor be constantly running with the switch in the on position? Will the air tank be a big enough reserve to keep the compressor from running constantly? I really don't want the compressor running full time (when the lockers are engaged) What are the pitfalls to my plan?

*Dick, I already know how you feel about putting compressed air into the diffs so you don't need to comment on that. But to me that is better than running electric lockers to the axles that are going to be submerged.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2006, 12:21 PM
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I'd go with the tank or tanks and control the compressior with a pressure switch set to kick the compressor on at something like 80 or 90 PSI and off at 120 or so. A moisture trap on the output of the compressor will help cut down water build up in the tank. You can get a small pressure switch from Viair. Don't know how much current you compressor pulls but I'd use a relay eventhogh I think the Viair switch is rated at 20 amps or so. Then put a small regulator filter unit set at what ARB wants, I think it's 80 PIS, between the tanks and the ARB solenoids. that way you'd still have a source of backup air for the power tank. You can fab your own tanks like I did and the other bits and pieces don't add up to much. The compressor is about the only expensive part. Oh yeah, I took the input air for the compressor from the air box. I just drilled a hole in the back of the air box behind the filter and fixed a nipple type fitting in place with some epoxy putty. I can hunt some of the stuff I'm talking about down on the web if you need it.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2006, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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I feel funny about it, but here I a spent all this cash on the lockers and now I feel like I am budget cutting all the support accesories.

I got the compressor like I said earlier from a friend out of an RV, so it should be strong enough for the lockers. So that was $0.00 in cost, I have the 2.5 gallon air tank which I got from work which also cost me $0.00. so basically I just need to buy the moisture traps and another regulator for the air tank as well as the air lines.

Do you think though it would be too much overkill to put a moisture trap inline between the compressor and tank, and then another one between the tank and lockers? I really don't any condensation building up and then getting into my diffs.

How did you fab up your own tanks? I had thought about that but wasn't sure the best way. I really wanted to mount the tank under the bed in the spare tire position, but my tank is too big and would hang down further than I want, so if I could build a "low profile" tank and get a greater volume out of it, I would love to do that instead.

As for setting up the intake for the compressor, I already took care of that. I got a valve cover breather which was the same size as the intake, one hose clamp later and the intake is filtered, ready to go

I also already figured on a 20 amp relay for the compressor. I think after this mod though, I am going to have to seriously look into a duel battery set up, which I was going to hit you up for the plans. I like the way you were able to use to Odesseys in place of the stock battery. But I am definitely taxing my electrical system as it sits stock now. I already have a set of Pro Comp lights in my bumper, an after market white face gauge set up (low amps but still) and now the compressor. I also already have my rock lights. But it is too cold up here right now to get outside to work on anything unneccesary as rock lights. (13º this morning when I walked out the door for work)

So with the added compressor, the six sets of lights and a winch in the near future, I think two batteries are definitely going to be needed!

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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear
Here is my quandry for this week.

I have an ARB in my Dana 44 and an ARB in my toy axle out back. I was given a compressor out of an RV a couple of years ago which I always planned to us with the lockers. I know it will put out at least 90 CFM's but other than that, I don't have any other information on the compressor.

What would be the best way of setting up my system. I have never set up ARB's before.

My original game plan is to mount the compressor on the passenger side fender well under the hood (already mounted there) run a hard line from the compressor to a regulator, then through an air filter down a hard line secured to the passenger side frame rail into a 2.5 gallon air tank mounted in the bed. From the air tank through another air filter that tees going to two seperate hard lines (one that will branch off to two quick disconnect for air tools) and the other that will branch off going to both the air lockers.

From the hard lines leading to the lockers, I was planning on going with "soft line" or coiled air hoses for a shorter distance to the axles.

but here lies my delimma. Is the air tank even needed? I have a CO2 bottle I can run air tools off of now. With the two lockers engaged will the compressor be constantly running with the switch in the on position? Will the air tank be a big enough reserve to keep the compressor from running constantly? I really don't want the compressor running full time (when the lockers are engaged) What are the pitfalls to my plan?

*Dick, I already know how you feel about putting compressed air into the diffs so you don't need to comment on that. But to me that is better than running electric lockers to the axles that are going to be submerged.
are you serious 90 CFM
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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thats what I was told it put out, and the ARB's need 90 cfm to engage, so the compressor should be up to the task.

why? I can get a regulator from the tank to the lockers to get the right pressure, then all I have to worry about is keeping a decent pressure to fill the tank

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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 12:35 PM
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You mean 90 psi.

220v compressors barely do 10 cfm.

I think ARBs take 80 psi.

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Last edited by CronusTRD; 02-21-2006 at 12:37 PM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Yes! I meant psi. I have no excuse for posting cfm earlier, but today I am on some pretty good pain meds. so that would explain why I couldn't figure out the reasoning behind the question!

I am going home now!

Are you sure it is 80 psi? I am not questioning you, because I knew it was either 80 or 90 psi.

BEAR
OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear

Are you sure it is 80 psi? I am not questioning you, because I knew it was either 80 or 90 psi.
I checked with Tim at ARB when I did my set-up and he suggested 80PSI as optimal. ....Steve

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 01:26 PM
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Feel free to question me. My knowledge of the ARB is could fill a small post it note.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 07:07 PM
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No it wouldn't be over kill to use two moisture seperators. They are not highly effective so two is better than one. I used 4" Schedule 80 PVC pipe to make two tanks. They tuck up between the frame and rocker panel on each side in otherwise unused space and are protected from below by the sliders to some extent. Each is about 2.5 gallons for a total of 5. Schedule 80 is some pretty thick stuff and is easy to drill and tap for standard 1/4" brass pipe fittings. To keep a handle on cost and size, I used schedule 40 end caps on the pipe ends. The pressure rating for each is way beyond the 130 PSI or so that I run the tanks at. The compressor shouldn't tax your electrical system that much if the truck is running.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Foster
No it wouldn't be over kill to use two moisture seperators. They are not highly effective so two is better than one. I used 4" Schedule 80 PVC pipe to make two tanks. They tuck up between the frame and rocker panel on each side in otherwise unused space and are protected from below by the sliders to some extent. Each is about 2.5 gallons for a total of 5. Schedule 80 is some pretty thick stuff and is easy to drill and tap for standard 1/4" brass pipe fittings. To keep a handle on cost and size, I used schedule 40 end caps on the pipe ends. The pressure rating for each is way beyond the 130 PSI or so that I run the tanks at. The compressor shouldn't tax your electrical system that much if the truck is running.

how long are your tanks? and it sounds strange but is the calculation for air gallons the same as water? my 33gal compressor in the garage looks like it could probably hold 50 or so. so yeah im just trying to figure out how much storage im sitting on

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear
Here is my quandry for this week.

I have an ARB in my Dana 44 and an ARB in my toy axle out back. I was given a compressor out of an RV a couple of years ago which I always planned to us with the lockers. I know it will put out at least 90 CFM's but other than that, I don't have any other information on the compressor.

What would be the best way of setting up my system. I have never set up ARB's before.

My original game plan is to mount the compressor on the passenger side fender well under the hood (already mounted there) run a hard line from the compressor to a regulator, then through an air filter down a hard line secured to the passenger side frame rail into a 2.5 gallon air tank mounted in the bed. From the air tank through another air filter that tees going to two seperate hard lines (one that will branch off to two quick disconnect for air tools) and the other that will branch off going to both the air lockers.

From the hard lines leading to the lockers, I was planning on going with "soft line" or coiled air hoses for a shorter distance to the axles.

but here lies my delimma. Is the air tank even needed? I have a CO2 bottle I can run air tools off of now. With the two lockers engaged will the compressor be constantly running with the switch in the on position? Will the air tank be a big enough reserve to keep the compressor from running constantly? I really don't want the compressor running full time (when the lockers are engaged) What are the pitfalls to my plan?

*Dick, I already know how you feel about putting compressed air into the diffs so you don't need to comment on that. But to me that is better than running electric lockers to the axles that are going to be submerged.
you can get the fittings (pressure switch, etc.) and wiring kit that come with the ARB compressor from ARB. the solinoids come with your lockers. Then all you need is a manifold, like a 1-in/5-out...plug in the two solinoids, pressure switch into the manifold just as they would go into the ARB compressor. This way you still run all the same wiring and switches just as if you were using the ARB compressor

here's one example:
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 08:03 AM
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Didn't measure exaclty but they are not the full length of the space under there but fit between a couple of body mounts. Just calculate the volume of the cylinder and convert to gallons. You want as much as you can get on board if you run 35 or larger tires. They take a whole heep of air to top up. I doubt you'll be about to get as much as your garage compressor though so you will eventully get back to the pump alone when airing up after a run. Having the tanks in there is good for setting a tire bead though and speeds the air up process from just the pump alone. I've gone to using both my hardmounted ViAir and the cheapie backup pump together when airing up sometimes.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Steve that helps a lot! I have the install instructions somewhere at the house, but that saves me time in having to look the info up.

80 psi it is then! Now I just have to find the time to set them up! Damn work…it's taking away from my hobby!

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OVERKILL IS AN UNDERRATED ACHIEVEMENT

Originally Posted by abbott
… remember, in the world of cars and trucks, its not cubic inches, its cubic dollars.
GO SPURS GO!!!!
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