T-case gearing

[00regcab]

So my truck needs a new clutch, soon.

While the tranny and t-case are out, i want to re-gear the t-case. Obviously, a crawl box would be the better route to go, however re-gearing the t-case is more cost effective, and i ultimately get nearly the same effect.

I know isaac had his re-geared and it didnt offer as wide of a gear selection as a crawler, but i personally feel it'll be more beneficial to me, and it'll be enough for what i do/want to do for the next year or more.

I know the basics behind doing it, but is it something that can be done in a garage with a couple people? Or do i need to take it to a shop for backlash settings and such (like a diff?).

Thinking i want to go 4.7, however i havent really looked into it too far yet. Still have some research to do. Anybody have any input/advice on this?

Thanks.

[RedRunnertc]

Scrape together for the crawler. 4.7's by themselves do not give you anywhere near the same effect! The 4.7 is great on hard obstacles, but sucks on easier trails and in between the obstacles - it's just too slow to keep up with the rest of the group!

Yes, you can do the install yourself - these are "normal" gears, not helical, so you don't have to set the backlash (basically, the backlash is controlled by the diameter of the gears).

Taking the transmission out is the hard part - not the transfer case. No biggie to do it on down the road a ways.

[00regcab]

Well im budgeting it all together. While im doing all of it id like to get the t-case clocking adapter, front skid, and flat belly pan skid from budbuilt, and do it all in one shot. I'd imagine it'll probably be at the very minimum a 2 FULL day project, assuming all goes smooth.

I understand the 4.7's will be hell between obstacles, however, as it sits now im usually always in 2nd-3rd gear between obstacles, for the most part. It wouldnt really bother me too bad if i had to be in 4th or even 5th dependent on the trail. Chances are if im in 4th or 5th i could probably get by just fine in 4hi in 1st. I really like the 5.29 with 33 combo, even though most people dont desire it.

To do all of it (including a new marlin clutch, flywheel, 4.7 t-case gearing, skids, cross member, clocking adapter) will run me about what dual cases would, but then i wont have the protection that we all know (and have witnessed) i desperately need to invest in.

I suppose for the time i COULD get by with a new clutch, and do the flat bottom/skid plate setup. Im still throwing around ideas, but i really want lower gears, (especially before moab in the fall) but i dont feel im ready to go dual cases low.

[colorado125]

Didn't think you could regear the Taco cases as they are chain driven, not gear driven like the older Toys. Thought you had to go to a new case like the "lefty" from inchworm, etc.

[SP!N4L T4P]

not to hijack or anything but...: i was reading about dual cases and read that some people are getting a final ratio of like 500:1. a direct quote from the article "factory 23-spline input is much stronger, and therefore, the 4.70:1 gears can be placed in either the front case or in the rear, the choice is yours. In any of the available applications, two sets of 4.70:1 can be used to achieve a low range crawl ratio of nearly 500:1!" whats the science behind that?

[Volcom]

SpinalTap - 5.29's in the diff's and 4.7's both cases will net you 459 to 1 bases on a 3.93 first gear ratio (http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transfercase/dual_07_intro.htm)

On most trails, I use my 4.7 gears, 1st and 2nd gear. I will shift into double low on the really tough stuff (or like a trail like Liberty, just stay in double low, 2nd gear). On the faster parts of the trail, I do use my 2.28's like TC said. In Moab on Metal Masher, I was in the back of the pack through the flat sections because I had left it in 4.7's. Even 5th gear, 4.7 is pretty slow :D

I would say if you are on a budget, either go 4.7's in the case or go dual cases and just leave them both stock (5.2 to 1 low). It will suck if you want to go 4.7's later because you'll have to pull the rear case to install them.

I say go 4.7's and wheel it for a year and save some $$$. Then you can go dual cases, flat belly, and driveshaft work next year.

[Mythica]

Yeah i agree. 4.7 by itself is very slow.

I have 5:13's so 5:29's are going to be even slower.

I uselly stick with the stock case in gear and leave the crawler in high. And then mix and match as i need.

Dual cases is great, I understand the money issues, but if you can swing the crawler you would like the options it provides better.

[RedRunnertc]

Didn't think you could regear the Taco cases as they are chain driven, not gear driven like the older Toys. Thought you had to go to a new case like the "lefty" from inchworm, etc.

Oops - good point.

[00regcab]

so my only option is in fact dual cases then... i didnt think about that either until i started to do some reading.

which means the tacobox from marlin is looking like the best option right now... but thats runnin $1900 new for the setup with 4.7 FD in it. Or $1500 for the setup with 2.28 FD in it. It says its a complete bolt in unit (minus drive shafts obviously). Granted, i havent looked around for any used setups just yet, but its possible i could find a deal on one somewhere.

Looks like im sticking with just the 5.29's in my diffs, and doing a new clutch, and bud built flat-bottom skid setup. Until next summer anyway.

Volcom, when you wheel with me i think you'll see why i feel the need for flat bottom, and some nice skid plates

[colorado125]

so my only option is in fact dual cases then... i didnt think about that either until i started to do some reading.

which means the tacobox from marlin is looking like the best option right now... but thats runnin $1900 new for the setup with 4.7 FD in it. Or $1500 for the setup with 2.28 FD in it. It says its a complete bolt in unit (minus drive shafts obviously). Granted, i havent looked around for any used setups just yet, but its possible i could find a deal on one somewhere.

Looks like im sticking with just the 5.29's in my diffs, and doing a new clutch, and bud built flat-bottom skid setup. Until next summer anyway.

Volcom, when you wheel with me i think you'll see why i feel the need for flat bottom, and some nice skid plates

Thought the lefty was direct bolt in with no drive shaft changes, but could be wrong.

[Mythica]

Yeah the lefty is suppossed to bolt right in. I love that thing, i want one of those next round. ;)


92 check with Inchworm. From my personal experiance they have much better customer service. Plus they actually answer the phone and return messages if they dont.

[AxleIke]

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=68

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=1001

Looks like about 1200 to do it yourself, assuming you get a cheap gear drive case.

[00regcab]

Now for that price, im right back where i might as well just go with the taco box from marlin...

inchworm also offers a tacoma specific setup for a little bit more money.

http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=21_38&products_id=985

hmmm, decisions lol

either way, this summers budget consists of new clutch, flat bottom, skids, getting my bed finished/painted, and finishing up my rear bumper.

Next summer i may be able to afford a decent drivetrain setup.

[Avsfreak1234]

I know the 4cyl t-cases are different from the V6 t-cases and I thought that ours nate, (4cyl) were gear driven. I could be wrong...probably am like usual.

[00regcab]

I know the 4cyl t-cases are different from the V6 t-cases and I thought that ours nate, (4cyl) were gear driven. I could be wrong...probably am like usual.

i was under the impression that they are in fact the same t-case, but different trannies? lol im not 100% sure on this either, anybody have any input?

[Don_G]

I just checked: My 2004 has a planetary gear. Only one t-case shown for that year.

Don't remember what year your truck is.

[Volcom]

Volcom, when you wheel with me i think you'll see why i feel the need for flat bottom, and some nice skid plates

:confused: , never said you did or didn't need them?

Anyways, to get a truly flat belly, get ready to cut an s-ton of sheetmetal in the cab (tranny tunnel will need to come completely out) to make it happen. Too much cutting, sheetmetal fitting, and welding for me for the small gains in going flat belly.

[mrdoug]

FWIW... I was cruisin the classifieds on colo4x4 and found somebody parting out an 85 runner, t-case is going for 150 from behind a w56 so it might be the gear drive you're lookin for to put gears in...

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=125775

[RedRunnertc]

I have a gear drive top shift tcase for sale, exactly what you need for a crawler ...

Oh - and clocking won't do you much good with a traditional crossmember and mount setup. You'll need the FROR crossmember, and since I don't think anyone makes skids, you'll have to do that custom...

[Don_G]

I have a gear drive top shift tcase for sale, exactly what you need for a crawler ...

Oh - and clocking won't do you much good with a traditional crossmember and mount setup. You'll need the FROR crossmember, and since I don't think anyone makes skids, you'll have to do that custom...

TC,

Will that work with my planetary gear t-case as the other half of the crawler?

I'd like to explore this as a "next winter" step on my truck.

This will make the driveshaft angle steeper. Is that a significant problem? Would I need to go to a true "dual CV" driveshaft rather than a shorter dual u-joint one?


I also seem to have read that clocking the t-case can cause oiling issues. Any discussion on that?

[00regcab]

I say go 4.7's and wheel it for a year and save some $$$. Then you can go dual cases, flat belly, and driveshaft work next year.

i just took this as, skip the skids, and just gear it? Maybe i mis-understood? lol

i suppose the other option could be dual cases, with 2 stock cases, however this is simply an idea... obviously it wouldnt offer me any crazy low gearing, but it would be enough for what i need to do, and cheap. But then again, i need to do research on that, as it seems that it in fact would not work.

[RedRunnertc]

Will that work with my planetary gear t-case as the other half of the crawler?

This will make the driveshaft angle steeper. Is that a significant problem? Would I need to go to a true "dual CV" driveshaft rather than a shorter dual u-joint one?

I also seem to have read that clocking the t-case can cause oiling issues. Any discussion on that?

Yes, you would use the reduction box off this with the adapters to make the crawlbox.

It will make the rear a bit steeper, will help the front. Since you have minimal lift, I don't think the DS would be a problem.

The only issue I see is making sure it's full enough because the "fill" plug will be closer to the "drain" plug now. I wonder if you could install a sightglass somehow...

i suppose the other option could be dual cases, with 2 stock cases, however this is simply an idea... obviously it wouldnt offer me any crazy low gearing, but it would be enough for what i need to do, and cheap. But then again, i need to do research on that, as it seems that it in fact would not work.

The more I think about it, a single geared case will not be cost effective for you. You're gonna need adapters and such anyways to do that, why not have dual cases for essentially the price?