: Tundra Evolution


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TacoCrazy
11-19-2008, 05:48 PM
He's using my truck pictures to wack off to while his old lady's at the grocery store....and mossy's there giving him a hand :rofl:

O damn! I can't really think of a response to that, so that is all.

devinsixtyseven
11-19-2008, 08:32 PM
:suicide:You been rickrolled :flipoff4:

01 Tundra
11-20-2008, 11:02 AM
I'm starting to rethink the whole 1-piece rear drive shaft since it will end up being 65" long and will force me into a large diameter, relatively thin wall tube (3-1/2" x 0.083") to retain the ability to drive down the road and keep all my teeth in my head.........

So instead of going back with the weak Toyota carrier bearing - would there be any disadvantage to reworking my current cross member and going with a carrier out of a 1-ton truck? You would think that they would surely be stronger than my factory Tundra carrier bearing was....being on a big ass dually - plus it would still be an easy to find stock item......

Bear
11-20-2008, 11:18 AM
O damn! I can't really think of a response to that, so that is all.

could have asked if his old lady was at the store picking up KY jelly for him.

:D

come on you are quicker than that! you are dissappointment!

Bear
11-20-2008, 11:20 AM
I'm starting to rethink the whole 1-piece rear drive shaft since it will end up being 65" long and will force me into a large diameter, relatively thin wall tube (3-1/2" x 0.083") to retain the ability to drive down the road and keep all my teeth in my head.........

So instead of going back with the weak Toyota carrier bearing - would there be any disadvantage to reworking my current cross member and going with a carrier out of a 1-ton truck? You would think that they would surely be stronger than my factory Tundra carrier bearing was....being on a big ass dually - plus it would still be an easy to find stock item......

Have you confirmed that the bearing that is inside the pillow block is the same diameter you need for your toyota driveshaft?

that is about the only problem I see for you in making a 1ton carrier work.

but knowing you, I am sure you are way ahead on that thought.

01 Tundra
11-20-2008, 11:24 AM
I'm have to have a complete new drive shaft built up from scratch with a Ford 1350 1-ton flange up at the Atlas and a 1-ton 1350 spicer joint down at my 14-bolt........so if I'm going to end up with basically a F-350 rear drive shaft, why not just use their support bearing that cost $24 from Advanced Auto?

Bear
11-20-2008, 11:27 AM
I'm have to have a complete new drive shaft built up from scratch with a Ford 1350 1-ton flange up at the Atlas and a 1-ton 1350 spicer joint down at my 14-bolt........so if I'm going to end up with basically a F-350 rear drive shaft, why not just use their support bearing that cost $24 from Advanced Auto?

yea, that makes sense then to do it that way. I for some reason was thinking you were going to either have your stock shaft re tubed or shortened.

Doing as you propose makes a LOT more sense.

Come to think about it. I have a Ford driveshaft sitting on the side of my house. I am not sure what it came out of, but it is a lot more beefier than the toyota stuff. I might just have to think about an upgrade myself…


You bastid! Like I don't already have enough to do on my junk.:mad:
;)

01 Tundra
11-20-2008, 12:13 PM
FYI - Found these guys that make high performance replacement center support bearings using polyurethane - they have one that's a larger body version of the F-350 that they use for Fleetwood motor homes for $125 and a factory F-350 bearing is a direct bolt replacement in the event that something happened a long way from home......

http://www.iedls.com/page11.html


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/ujoint.jpg

Bear
11-20-2008, 12:37 PM
FYI - Found these guys that make high performance replacement center support bearings using polyurethane - they have one that's a larger body version of the F-350 that they use for Fleetwood motor homes for $125 and a factory F-350 bearing is a direct bolt replacement in the event that something happened a long way from home......

http://www.iedls.com/page11.html


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/ujoint.jpg

Are you planning on building a drive shaft hoop to fit over the carrier? It occurred to me after reading up on that one posted, that most carrier frames are made out of aluminum. which in a fight with a rock is going to loose every time.

I think it might be a good idea to add some type of a skid plate for the carrier in the form of a driveshaft hoop or something.

Especially if you are going with a larger carrier bearing, because it is going to mean that yours will be larger, bulkier and hanging lower to the ground.

TacoCrazy
11-20-2008, 05:42 PM
could have asked if his old lady was at the store picking up KY jelly for him.

:D

come on you are quicker than that! you are dissappointment!

Been on 3 weeks of 12's, so no I couldn't think..Sorry to disappoint..:D

jh3
11-20-2008, 05:50 PM
I just thought I would start some shit here as well since I do everywhere else ;)

I keep trying to get him to cut that big bitch up into a pro mod style rig.......no go though.............yet ;)


Oh and yes I beat off to truck porn at brads.

crolison
11-20-2008, 08:50 PM
Oh and yes I beat off to truck porn at brads.

so that's why his seats are sticky...:eek:

Bear
11-21-2008, 08:14 AM
Been on 3 weeks of 12's, so no I couldn't think..Sorry to disappoint..:D

you have been on 12"'s for three weeks huh? sounds like you are the one that needs the KY then :bhump:
:lmao:

TacoCrazy
11-21-2008, 06:59 PM
you have been on 12"'s for three weeks huh? sounds like you are the one that needs the KY then :bhump:
:lmao:

You have misread my post..3 weeks of 12 hour shifts...










I really hope you knew that, but there was no way I would let it go without a "proper" explanation.

dstrbdone
11-21-2008, 09:22 PM
You have misread my post..3 weeks of 12 hour shifts...










I really hope you knew that, but there was no way I would let it go without a "proper" explanation.


I think that is what Bear meant.:D why, where is your mind? Guilty conscience.:xrainbow:

TacoCrazy
11-22-2008, 08:16 AM
I think that is what Bear meant.:D why, where is your mind? Guilty conscience.:xrainbow:

Noooooo..Look at his post again..He has the " inch symbol in there..After weeks of this shit I feel like I've been taking one though.

jh3
11-22-2008, 08:38 AM
Most toyota owners like it in the shooter.

TacoCrazy
11-22-2008, 02:21 PM
Most toyota owners like it in the shooter.

That's just plain wrong, but I guess you'd know as well as anyone huh?

Wes
11-22-2008, 03:16 PM
Most toyota owners from Chattanooga like it in the shooter.

Took the liberty of clarifying that for you.

frazier2209
11-22-2008, 05:35 PM
Took the liberty of clarifying that for you.

I think we should specifiy that even further to harrison, tn to keep me out of yall's :xrainbow: parades

Rock Taco
11-22-2008, 11:06 PM
Most toyota owners from the south like it in the shooter.


Even better yet. :xmoon::xrainbow::bhump:

jh3
11-24-2008, 04:39 AM
jeeps are the way the new world.

Just put all your junk it a tj body johnathon

01 Tundra
11-24-2008, 07:53 AM
Are you ass bags finished :D ?...................

Anyways, got a lot of shit wrapped up over the weekend and now it's time to have my drive shafts made and get my junk rolling again. It actually started, ran, and I could turn the wheels.....so that's a good sign I suppose.

The bottom of the frame rails are currently sitting at 24.5" off the ground with 30 psi in the tires, with no interior, drive shafts, or cage in it.....so I would guess the final height to be no more than 24".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/finalskid.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/pfb2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/fbb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/dfb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/pfb.jpg

FAUX X 4
11-24-2008, 12:59 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/pfb2.jpg

I'm guessing the exhaust/driveshaft is going to be the next problem. :D

01 Tundra
11-24-2008, 01:36 PM
Nope - I didn't have to modify the exhaust at all, incredibly everything clears :rolleyes: ......

Have the driveshafts all figured out, going with Tom Woods 2" OD, 0.120" front with 1350 conventional joints & 10.5" slip. The rear will be a 3" OD, 0.120" wall 2-piece with 1350 conventional & a 1350 CV at the center support bearing. I went with a Timken HB88107 (Spicer 210370-1X) center support bearing that originally came on most all 3/4-ton & 1-ton GMC trucks/vans - $29 at Advance Auto and in stock + way beefier than the original Tundra bearing at 1/4 the cost :rolleyes: ! The exhaust looks like it won't clear from that picture, I was waiting for someone to comment.....

Just bought all my fasters & steel to patch up the floor over the holiday weekend.

Then all that's left is welding the shock tabs & spring perches to get it driving. Still have to LineX the floor pan & build the cage, but planning on running the factory front seats until I can afford the Mastercrafts.

FAUX X 4
11-24-2008, 01:39 PM
Nope - I didn't have to modify the exhaust at all, incredibly everything clears :rolleyes: ......

Have the driveshafts all figured out, going with Tom Woods 2" OD, 0.120" front with 1350 conventional joints & 10.5" slip. The rear will be a 3" OD, 0.120" wall 2-piece with 1350 conventional & a 1350 CV at the center support bearing. I went with a Timken HB88107 (Spicer 210370-1X) center support bearing that originally came on most all 3/4-ton & 1-ton GMC trucks/vans - $29 at Advance Auto and in stock + way beefier than the original Tundra bearing at 1/4 the cost :rolleyes: ! The exhaust looks like it won't clear from that picture, I was waiting for someone to comment.....

Just bought all my fasters & steel to patch up the floor over the holiday weekend.

Then all that's left is welding the shock tabs & spring perches to get it driving. Still have to LineX the floor pan & build the cage, but planning on running the factory front seats until I can afford the Mastercrafts.

Must just be the angle of the shots.......... carry on! :D

01 Tundra
11-24-2008, 01:43 PM
Don't be wishful thinking me any additional work.....I must be winning the jackstand race here :D !

FAUX X 4
11-24-2008, 01:48 PM
Don't be wishful thinking me any additional work.....I must be winning the jackstand race here :D !

I didn't realize we were racing? :lmao:

........maybe I should get started then! :D

Mossyrocks
11-29-2008, 04:44 PM
So uh... how bout you hurry up and get it done so you can follow me out for KOH 09... Im not too fond of that drive with one truck.

FAUX X 4
11-29-2008, 08:27 PM
So uh... how bout you hurry up and get it done so you can follow me out for KOH 09... Im not too fond of that drive with one truck.

Wut he said! :D

I wanna see this thing in person..................... so I can pee on it! :D

Mossyrocks
11-29-2008, 08:33 PM
Wut he said! :D

I wanna see this thing in person..................... so I can pee on it! :D


so.... this is the gayest thread on ttora right now. and not just gay... kinky gay. :rofl:

Gerdo
11-30-2008, 08:50 AM
This truck is awesome. Great looking build.

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 07:18 AM
Finally got the floor patched......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/floorpatch1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/floorpatch2.jpg

gregers05
12-01-2008, 02:23 PM
decided not to make it removable i guess?

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 02:29 PM
Naw, I have plenty of room to get to the t-case front output from below. I can add a removable panel if ever needed, but I wanted to weld in one continuous piece to make it strong......

brinner
12-01-2008, 04:09 PM
....yeah cause thats one thing that is lacking in this build....strength :rolleyes:

Mossyrocks
12-01-2008, 05:03 PM
So uh... how bout you hurry up and get it done so you can follow me out for KOH 09... Im not too fond of that drive with one truck.



:thumbs:

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 05:08 PM
:thumbs:

What's the KOH09?

FAUX X 4
12-01-2008, 05:12 PM
:thumbs:

I think he's ignoring us! :lmao:

Mossyrocks
12-01-2008, 05:13 PM
What's the KOH09?


King of the hammers... Cali-forn-I-ae

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 05:13 PM
Nah, I was reading threads on Pirate about Herculiner, think I may try out the gray on my floor board instead of spending the $ for LineX.......

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 05:15 PM
I would like to, but I really want to run CO & Moab next spring/fall and won't be able to swing both.......

FAUX X 4
12-01-2008, 05:16 PM
Nah, I was reading threads on Pirate about Herculiner, think I may try out the gray on my floor board instead of spending the $ for LineX.......

Wear a ventilator if you do......... the spray stuff I used to touch up after the bed-bob about killed my last brain cell! :xcrazy:

Mossyrocks
12-01-2008, 05:17 PM
I would like to, but I really want to run CO & Moab next spring/fall and won't be able to swing both.......

Well damn... Im going to Moab though.

01 Tundra
12-01-2008, 05:22 PM
Think I'm going to brush/roll it on, but will still need a ventilator 'cause I imagine that stuff packs a good buzz :rolleyes: ...................

FAUX X 4
12-01-2008, 05:27 PM
Think I'm going to brush/roll it on, but will still need a ventilator 'cause I imagine that stuff packs a good buzz :rolleyes: ...................

I found that using a big dry brush and dabbing it while it dried gave the same texture as the line x I already had...... without it it was too smooth and clumpy if that makes sense?....... maybe the roll on is different?

Wes
12-01-2008, 05:38 PM
Think I'm going to brush/roll it on, but will still need a ventilator 'cause I imagine that stuff packs a good buzz :rolleyes: ...................

I did mine in my garage in December. The cold was the fuckup - not the fumes. If it is cold it will never set.

dstrbdone
12-02-2008, 08:26 PM
Well damn... Im going to Moab though.

We need to hit Area BFE just outside Moab:D

01 Tundra
12-03-2008, 07:14 AM
Take a look over on the PB, they are getting a Moab trip together - looks like sometime in early May possibly.

motochain
12-03-2008, 09:26 AM
Take a look over on the PB, they are getting a Moab trip together - looks like sometime in early May possibly.

The Tundra guys may be goin' again over Easter weekend. (which I think is back in April for '09)

devinsixtyseven
12-06-2008, 12:25 AM
The usual hootus warning applies re: Herculiner :lmao:

INFERNAL
12-11-2008, 02:29 PM
Looking bad ass ! . Nice job on the floor too , I'd like to see it finished .

01 Tundra
12-11-2008, 02:37 PM
I'd like to see it finished .


X2 bro! It will be back on the road in about 2 weeks. Front drive shaft arrived today and rear will be here by next Wednesday. Can't wait to take it to Moab!!!!!!!

dstrbd2
12-14-2008, 12:04 AM
Is that thing going to be ready to go to Moab any day within the next year. Trent was saying you wanted to come down to Moab this easter that is one of the worst times to go to moab unless your regisered on a trail most of the trails they have shut down to the public that week-end

01 Tundra
12-15-2008, 07:05 AM
Yeah, my pile will be at 100% in the next 2 weeks.

Preliminary trip date is currently May 1st-9th.

INFERNAL
12-15-2008, 02:46 PM
X2 bro! It will be back on the road in about 2 weeks. Front drive shaft arrived today and rear will be here by next Wednesday. Can't wait to take it to Moab!!!!!!!

Sweet ! . Nice work overall . . . I need to look through all my pics , I think I have a couple pics of your truck from the Takeover in Hot Springs , Arkansas . I talked to you for a minute out there a couple years back .

INFERNAL
12-16-2008, 02:29 AM
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f293/INKfernal/TTORA2006058.jpg

awsumdc
12-16-2008, 09:55 AM
Wear a ventilator if you do......... the spray stuff I used to touch up after the bed-bob about killed my last brain cell! :xcrazy:

You had a last brain cell????;)

FAUX X 4
12-16-2008, 03:56 PM
You had a last brain cell????;)

I borrowed it from somebody........ I can't remember their name for some reason??? :D

01 Tundra
12-16-2008, 04:01 PM
If you're not using it right now......can I borrow it?

Shipping to 37075 :xcrazy:?

01 Tundra
12-16-2008, 04:03 PM
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f293/INKfernal/TTORA2006058.jpg

Those Stazworks wheels rocked............I hate you Trent - I want 'em back you bastard :flipoff3:!

dstrbdone
12-16-2008, 09:17 PM
Jonathan: my favorite non uncle.:D Piece by peice I will get your truck. Either for me or my friends.
Dibs on the new transfercase when it comes out!!!

Pieces acquired to date:
-Stazworks double beadlocks
-Deaver leaf springs
-Custom front and rear axles for Dad.

01 Tundra
12-17-2008, 01:16 PM
Finally got my rig over to Trail Works so they could work their magic on it.......looking at their work all around my hacked up shiat and booger welds makes me wanna punch myself in the face repeatedly :rolleyes:........................

front drive shaft angle and clearance looks good -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/frontdriveshaft.jpg

Inboarded the rear leafs to the center of the frame and removed the bottom 3 leafs out of the pack, also gave me space to rotate the rotors up out of the way -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rearspringmount2.jpg

pulled the dash to look at how much putting a cage in would suck -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/dash.jpg

and my tires finally showed up, think I'm gonna to have to do some more fender trimming to get 'em to clear though..........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/tires.jpg

HillBilly_Young01
12-17-2008, 01:19 PM
your truck will look bad ass with them tires on it!!!!!

now lets see how long them axles last

Bear
12-17-2008, 01:44 PM
might as well start the interior cage now that you have the dash out or is that the original plan anyway.

I keep having to fight the urge to rip my cage out and start over with it. One thing I would do differently is put it behind the dash, so I think your planning to do so to begin with is solid.

One piece of advice though. in the upper bend where the "A" piller bends into the halo loop over head, bend some tube for grab handles. We did that on my cage and I tell you, it is the next best thing about my cage other than it being tied to the frame.

We have actually used the grab bar's three or four times as anchor points. Each time putting a tow strap to that point has kept me from flopping over while having to be winched around an off camber slope.

01 Tundra
12-17-2008, 01:50 PM
cool thanks for the info Bear. Yeah, if we proceed the cage will come dowm through the dash to maximize space and will have a crossbar running right above the dash.

01 Tundra
12-29-2008, 07:51 AM
Santa came though ;)...........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/cage1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/cage2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/cage3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/cage4.jpg

frazier2209
12-29-2008, 09:17 AM
Lookin good. How does it tie into the frame??

01 Tundra
12-29-2008, 09:29 AM
Front & rear legs tie in with plates using the body mount bolts and individual plate bolts, b-pillars use sandwich plates and then tie into frame below -


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/B-PillarMount.jpg

dstrbdone
12-29-2008, 01:35 PM
Nice. How much does it block your view.

01 Tundra
12-29-2008, 01:40 PM
Doesn't seem like it's going to be too bad, I will know soon enough :rolleyes:! I hope to able to take it over to LineX later today to have the floor sprayed.

Rodge
12-29-2008, 02:17 PM
I take it the place who fabbed up your cage was able to build it outside of the truck because of how the doors open on the Tundra? Looks good.

01 Tundra
12-29-2008, 02:21 PM
nope, we used tube clamps on the rear legs so we could drop the back down and weld the top and front of the cage.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/cagedrop.jpg

Rodge
12-29-2008, 02:37 PM
That white paint really makes it hard to see those clamps in the original picture. Now that I know where they're at I see them.

01 Tundra
12-29-2008, 02:41 PM
we first kicked the rear legs out to get the top and front of the cage like in the picture, then got the rear legs back in and tacked the front tubes running down the windshield to the front legs, then dropped out the rear legs again to get to the front of the windshield tubes, then back up to get the B-pillars in..........it was definitely a process! We were almost able to remove the top portion of the cage, but the windshield crossbar wouldn't let it come all the way out of the cab......

01 Tundra
12-31-2008, 07:52 AM
Got to drive my pile last night.......after 6 months of downtime. For the most part things seemed pretty good considering I've changed the entire brake system, steering system, front & rear axles, t-case, drive shafts.....basically everything except the engine.

My only issue so far is with the steering, I felt some pretty ugly bump steer last night that I've never had before. It's hard to believe that I would be getting such severe bump steer while running a ram and with my DL less than 5 degrees out of plane with the TR. I still notice some pump whine and a little fluid puking out into the reservoir breather hose once everything warms up - kinda sounds like I still have air in the system to me? Should I expect more bump steer with the DL attaching directly to the passenger side steer arm in lieu my past setup of using a ES2233L TRE with the DL attached to it?

01 Tundra
12-31-2008, 10:33 AM
I'm going to swap over to a Superlift 1104 drop pitman to get the DL in parallel with the TR and try to bleed out the system again. I've got a few things going on at once here, the harder steering is most likely due to two issues - #1 is that my TRE's are 5-7/8" out from my kingpin centerline and I used to be at 6-1/2" & #2 is that my old Toyota box had a smaller torsion bar than my current Saginaw does.

Once I get the bump steer fixed I will probably get used to the different steering feel. My old system was very touchy and most people struggled with driving it, so I may be just used to a super light feel. I can turn the wheels lock to lock with one finger at idle while on concrete currently, but with the Howe is was still lighter. If I can't live with the heavier feel we can always swap out the current 210 torsion bar for a lighter 180 :smokin:.

dstrbdone
12-31-2008, 06:28 PM
Your tie rod end is closer to centerline on you knigpins which will naturally make turning harder. I wonder if that is also transfering more back to the driver in the form of bumpsteer. That shouldn't be though. How far out is your drag link end mounted from the kingpins centerline. Is it further out than before. What is the mechanical advantage difference in the toy IFS box and the new one.

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 07:48 AM
So I got the Superlift 1104 drop pitman arm and it had about 1" too much drop - would let the DL TRE contact the leafs at full driver's side stuff. After talking with PSC & PartsMike.....I went against my better judgement and heated the arm with my B-tank and then took about 1/2" of offset out of each end with my press. I was told as long as I let it cool slowly on its own everything would be OK. The pitman is beefy as hell and material is steel, so I suppose it's no different from making your own and welding all over it. I made sure to hit it with more uniform heat instead of laying it on one spot only........thoughts?

Also pulled my steering gear and have it on it's way back to PSC to get a lighter torsion bar installed in it, gonna go from a 210 to a 180 to lighten up the feel a little.

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 07:50 AM
your tie rod end is closer to centerline on you knigpins which will naturally make turning harder. I wonder if that is also transfering more back to the driver in the form of bumpsteer. That shouldn't be though. How far out is your drag link end mounted from the kingpins centerline. Is it further out than before. What is the mechanical advantage difference in the toy ifs box and the new one.

dl - 7"
tr - 5-1/2"

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 12:16 PM
hey you bunch of assbags.....tell me it's perfectly fine that I heated and modified the single most important piece of steel on my truck damnit....or I'm gonna drive real fast around you :xdevil:!

Bear
01-07-2009, 12:34 PM
well you are there with the chunck of steel, how does it feel to you?

If you think it is bent straight and you do not have to keep heating it up to make adjustments, I think the one time heat treatment will be okay. Just don't make it a habit.

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 12:36 PM
still feels like the same big heavy hunk of shit that it did before, I think it will be fine after hearing what some others have done..............

Bear
01-07-2009, 12:40 PM
I would just not go to hacking it up and "gluing" it back together. but heating and reshaping as you described should be okay for a one time solution.


maybe the heavy feel you are getting is because you changed diets or something? :D

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 12:42 PM
I would just not go to hacking it up and "gluing" it back together. but heating and reshaping as you described should be okay for a one time solution.


maybe the heavy feel you are getting is because you changed diets or something? :D

well....now that you mentioned it.....damn Yuengling beer......:rolleyes:!

TacoCrazy
01-07-2009, 04:31 PM
well....now that you mentioned it.....damn Yuengling beer......:rolleyes:!

O damnit, I'm drinking a Yuengling right now.

01 Tundra
01-07-2009, 04:33 PM
O damnit, I'm drinking a Yuengling right now.

Well there ya go....put the beer down and get to wrenching on your truck fatass....bah ha ha :D!

TacoCrazy
01-07-2009, 04:43 PM
Damn, I busted myself. Nothing to wrench on at this point, she's still taking names, LOL.

01 Tundra
01-08-2009, 07:33 AM
Finally got some much needed "alone" time with my rig last night. Got most of the interior thrown back in it, all I lack is getting my GPS and fire extinguisher mounted on the cage.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/exteriorshot.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/driverssideinterior.jpg

Fully loaded with all spare parts and gear, still plenty of room back there for camping gear.......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/passengersideinterior.jpg

Bling courtesy of Summit Machine :D.........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/shifters.jpg

Wes
01-08-2009, 09:23 AM
That brown interior looks like hammered shit... ;)

Bear
01-08-2009, 09:31 AM
Finally got some much needed "alone" time with my rig last night. Got most of the interior thrown back in it, all I lack is getting my GPS and fire extinguisher mounted on the cage.


That brown interior looks like hammered shit... ;)

Jonathan, any plans on changing the seats?

and I recently discovered that that vinyl/fabric paint from duplicolor works pretty good on all the interior parts. Just stay away from that "fusion" crap that is suppose to be for plastics. That shit sucks!

But the duplicolor paint seems to work out pretty good! Not the greatest selection on colors but for the amount of trim you have left it should be fine.

I changed my brown oak stuff to black which might work real good for you with the white.

01 Tundra
01-08-2009, 10:56 AM
The LineX is actually more tan than it looks in the picture thanks to the camera flash.

Hey Wes....have I told you lately that you look like hammered cat shit :flipoff1:

brinner
01-08-2009, 01:37 PM
whats that lever that the passenger gets to operate? (doubler or T-case?)

01 Tundra
01-08-2009, 01:45 PM
4-speed Atlas - the one on the passenger side puts the front planetary in hi/lo ;).

Wes
01-08-2009, 01:46 PM
whats that lever that the passenger gets to operate? (doubler or T-case?)

That is the stump grinder...

01 Tundra
01-08-2009, 01:55 PM
That is the stump grinder...

Are you just bored today douchenozzle.....or did Molly finally wise up and kick your worthless ass out :D?

Wes
01-08-2009, 02:59 PM
Are you just bored today douchenozzle.....or did Molly finally wise up and kick your worthless ass out :D?

I guess I am the only one at work... Molly won't know she can live without me until I give her permission to.

Jordan7118
01-08-2009, 04:15 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/pfb2.jpg


I'm thinking about doing something like this with my sliders (when I make them :rolleyes: ) Has the plate been a hindrance or a help? Have you noticed sliding easier than maybe just tube sliders?

01 Tundra
01-08-2009, 05:11 PM
You talking about the UHMW plastic? If so, yeah it makes a huge difference - tough as hell and slides over rocks smoothly.

Jordan7118
01-09-2009, 02:52 AM
OOooooooo.... Does it have a metal backing, or it's just thicker? Where does one go about getting that stuff?

I really dig your in-cab cage. The bends and lines are very well thought out. Nice!!!

01 Tundra
01-09-2009, 09:29 AM
any industrial plastics distributors can get it (or most likely have it). Mine is 3/8" or 1/2" thick (I will have to confirm) and is backed up with 1/8" steel plate with dimple die holes for strength - overall weight is less than 1/4" steel plate of equivalent size and it's as tough as woodpecker lips........same shit that kitchen cutting boards are made out of ;)

TRoss
01-09-2009, 02:51 PM
Sweet build...
Any worries about the cab getting too toasty w/o the floor insulation?

Bear
01-09-2009, 02:53 PM
Sweet build...
Any worries about the cab getting too toasty w/o the floor insulation?

I have not had my floor insulation in my truck for the past 6 years. Even in South texas my truck never got "toasty"

01 Tundra
01-12-2009, 08:11 AM
Here's how I decided to provide some additional support for my Atlas - 1/4" plate bolted on the bottom of the t-case using 6 of the inspection plate bolts, bolted a plate onto the factory tranny mount, bridged the two together with a piece of 3/8" bar stock. This is similar approach to how some of the older 4x4's came from the factory.

In double low I can nail the throttle and my t-case shifters barely move, I left about 1/4" clearance between the t-case and floor pan and can't make them contact each other, so I'm calling it good..........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/AtlasSupport.jpg

BOVADS
01-12-2009, 10:35 AM
sweet cage work:welder:

01 Tundra
01-15-2009, 07:12 AM
Threw my steering box back in last night and it's now dialed in to perfection, that torsion bar deal makes a big difference! I took a little too much offset out of the pitman arm, but I think it will be fine, no more bump steer. The feel of the steering is now about the same as my '08 Tundra.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/draglink1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/pitman1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/front2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/frontside1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rear1.jpg

Bear
01-15-2009, 08:06 AM
the angle of your drag link looks really good now, you want to keep it as parallel to the ground as you can and I think you nailed that pretty good.

The overall stance of the truck sucks though:D I think you need to tear it down again or at least ship it up to me so you can start fresh with another project and I can work/wheel the piss out of it for you!

01 Tundra
01-15-2009, 08:18 AM
Ha - no more tearing it down for at least 2-3 yrs, that was an intense 6 months and I'm amazed at how nice it's acting on the street after changing both complete axles, suspension, entire steering system, entire braking system, t-case, both drive shafts, complete interior,......all in one shot :rolleyes:!

I am tempted to get another pitman and not take as much out of it and throw the current one in the tool box as a spare - I can get the drag link perfectly parallel with the tie rod and still clear the springs easily.....or maybe I should just quit fawkin with it and be happy.......

Bear
01-15-2009, 08:23 AM

I am tempted to get another pitman and not take as much out of it and throw the current one in the tool box as a spare - I can get the drag link perfectly parallel with the tie rod and still clear the springs easily.....or maybe I should just quit fawkin with it and be happy.......

Flip a coin on rather you want to get a new pitman or not. But it really isn't that hard to remove and install a new one, it's only money right?:rolleyes: and having the current one as a trail spare is not a bad idea, although I would think you would bust the steering box internals before you snapped a pitman but I could be wrong on that train of thought.

but those six months were very productive for you Jonathan! the truck turned out really really nice. probably the nicest on the board, although I think Wyatt may have something to say about that as well. But definitely a truck to be proud of! congrats and a job well done!

NwiTACO
01-15-2009, 10:26 AM
I wanna see this truck in person....Wyatts too...

01 Tundra
01-15-2009, 10:28 AM
I wanna see this truck in person....Wyatts too...


Come to Moab in April with us!

Bear
01-15-2009, 10:31 AM
Jonathan and I put our solid axles on about the same time, but since, he has completely redid everything at least once. But I saw his truck at the 06 take over in Arkansas. He does first rate work, so I can only imagine how pretty the upgrades truly are in person.

NwiTACO
01-15-2009, 10:34 AM
Come to Moab in April with us!

Only if there's an open seat :D. I think Moab will be in a few after the truck is paid off and SAS'd out!

Bear
01-15-2009, 10:38 AM
didn't know you were aspiring to follow Brinner's lead, interesting. before too long InTTORA will be loaded with SAS rigs!

Just remember though, I was the first in the chapter. :D

When you do decide to pull the trigger, let me know how I can help (obviously) and if I was you, I would beg 01 tundra (Jonathan) for any tips and tricks he would give up.


why do you need a SAS to go to moab?

NwiTACO
01-15-2009, 11:17 AM
Don't need SAS for Moab, need Moab money for SAS ;)

mostly stock
01-21-2009, 10:30 PM
I was just wondering where did you get the tubing clamps that you used on your cage?

Mossyrocks
01-21-2009, 11:11 PM
poly performance sells them

01 Tundra
01-22-2009, 07:14 AM
Are you talking about the ones we used when building the cage or the ones that I used to mount my GPS, fire extinguisher, etc...? The ones on the rear legs of the cage came from Ruff Stuff Specialties I believe. The ones that mount all my hardware/electronics onto the cage are from Fourtreks.

mostly stock
01-22-2009, 04:51 PM
I was asking about the ones on the rear legs of the cage I guess that you would call them the inline tube adapter? Going to do a tube front end but wanted to be able to remove part of it to work on the engine and the adapters that you used look really clean!!

01 Tundra
01-22-2009, 04:55 PM
I was asking about the ones on the rear legs of the cage I guess that you would call them the inline tube adapter? Going to do a tube front end but wanted to be able to remove part of it to work on the engine and the adapters that you used look really clean!!

That's usually where I've seen them used - engine cages, etc... The desert guys use them alot. I think Kartek also has them.

01 Tundra
01-26-2009, 07:52 AM
Had Trailworks fab up a rear axle truss Friday to help insure that the tubes stay where they are supposed to, was going to buy a prefabed truss but would have ended up spending more time cutting it up to fit around all my brake lines, ARB fitting, etc..

Also took one more shot at getting the steering linkage angles better. I got the draglink as close to parallel with the tie rod as possible, at full compression there's still a 1/4" of clearance between the DL and the leaf springs.

So this version of the Tundra is officially complete.......next step is to run the piss out of it at Greyrock in a few weeks and see if it all stays together.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/truss1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/truss2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/draglink1-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/draglink2.jpg

brinner
01-26-2009, 09:48 AM
so does the notch in your frame (see above) still get used for uptravel?

01 Tundra
01-26-2009, 09:53 AM
yep, without it the tie rod would hit the frame - but it doesn't get used as much as before.

frazier2209
01-26-2009, 11:07 AM
Keeping the straps on the rear yoke?? I'd hate to see a broken strap end your day. Get a pinion guard on that bad boy.

01 Tundra
01-26-2009, 11:09 AM
I carry a few sets of extra staps/bolts/U-joints.

frazier2209
01-26-2009, 11:15 AM
I carry a few sets of extra staps/bolts/U-joints.

better add a left handed drill bit to that list in case you break the bolt off in the yoke.

01 Tundra
01-26-2009, 11:16 AM
Good call, didn't think about that one......I do have a ready welder though :rolleyes:!

01 Tundra
01-26-2009, 11:36 AM
better add a left handed drill bit to that list in case you break the bolt off in the yoke.

Alright damnit, you just cost me $79 - happy :D? I've been a little worried about the straps, but only knew of the 1410 yoke upgrade from High Angle - which is overkill in my opinion. Just got on their website and found that they make a 1350 u-bolt style replacement yoke for $79.....it should be here by Friday :rolleyes:. I need to get a game plan together for installing this new yoke and keeping the preload like it is, I believe the 14-bolt uses a crush sleeve - so since the rear end was just set up it seems like I could hit the recommended torque and it would be pretty close?

frazier2209
01-26-2009, 09:30 PM
Alright damnit, you just cost me $79 - happy :D? I've been a little worried about the straps, but only knew of the 1410 yoke upgrade from High Angle - which is overkill in my opinion. Just got on their website and found that they make a 1350 u-bolt style replacement yoke for $79.....it should be here by Friday :rolleyes:. I need to get a game plan together for installing this new yoke and keeping the preload like it is, I believe the 14-bolt uses a crush sleeve - so since the rear end was just set up it seems like I could hit the recommended torque and it would be pretty close?

Correct. I had to put a new one on mine and it seems fine so far. I've had it about 20 miles on the road with no problems.


On the 1410 yoke. I talked a little tech with Steve Hudlow the other day and he explained to me that the little Toyota u-joint is actually stronger than a bigger joint like the 1350 or the 1410. Their weakness is that the "ears" that slides into the caps is longer and actually allows you to 'crank' more leverage on it and break the ears off where it meets the joint. The toy, 1350, and 1410 all use 'ears' that are relatively the same size.

The toyota joint is just has the tightest "ball" if you will for the same diameter ears. In theory it makes sense, I haven't personally checked it out. I may be totally off, but seems like he would know if anyone.



Good move on the yoke from High Angle. Jess will get a quality product to your door in no time at all.



Question for you. You ever ride at Golden Mtn?? Is it any good?? Couple of us from Chatt were thinking bout making a trip over.

01 Tundra
01-27-2009, 07:23 AM
A lot of my buddies from Cookeville have rode Golden Mountain several times and say it's the shiat - we are trying to figure out a time to go also. The guy with the red Suzuki Sidekick that was on the UA with us is coming down sometime soon from NY to ride with us, I was trying to figure out when Tellico was opening back up so we could hit Golden mountain, Tellico, & maybe Beasly Knob in one long weekend. Let me know when you guys are thinking about running up there and I will meet up with you guys.

dstrbdone
01-27-2009, 09:28 AM
Alright damnit, you just cost me $79 - happy :D? I've been a little worried about the straps, but only knew of the 1410 yoke upgrade from High Angle - which is overkill in my opinion. Just got on their website and found that they make a 1350 u-bolt style replacement yoke for $79.....it should be here by Friday :rolleyes:. I need to get a game plan together for installing this new yoke and keeping the preload like it is, I believe the 14-bolt uses a crush sleeve - so since the rear end was just set up it seems like I could hit the recommended torque and it would be pretty close?

I am going to have name you the overkill king. Where is your sense of adventure? Anymore crap on that rig and you will have to go through the port of entry every time you enter a new state.:flipoff1:

01 Tundra
01-27-2009, 09:37 AM
When I get to CO, the 1st thing I'm going to do is run into the side of your mall cruiser and scratch the freshly waxed paint......and hopefully knock off those gay mudflaps.......oh yeah.......and the neon undercarriage lights :flipoff1:!

Mossyrocks
01-27-2009, 12:03 PM
When I get to CO, the 1st thing I'm going to do is run into the side of your mall cruiser and scratch the freshly waxed paint......and hopefully knock off those gay mudflaps.......oh yeah.......and the neon undercarriage lights :flipoff1:!



:rofl:

dstrbdone
01-27-2009, 02:49 PM
There are too many trees out here for YOU to get too wild.:D Besides I left all the wax on my truck up in the oak brush last winter during hunting season.

frazier2209
01-27-2009, 05:02 PM
A lot of my buddies from Cookeville have rode Golden Mountain several times and say it's the shiat - we are trying to figure out a time to go also. The guy with the red Suzuki Sidekick that was on the UA with us is coming down sometime soon from NY to ride with us, I was trying to figure out when Tellico was opening back up so we could hit Golden mountain, Tellico, & maybe Beasly Knob in one long weekend. Let me know when you guys are thinking about running up there and I will meet up with you guys.

Pick a date and we'll do it. Tellico will open back up April 1st with a big ride on the 4th. I will be there. We could hit Tellico one weekend and Golden Mtn the next?? How long is dude wanting to stay??

01 Tundra
01-27-2009, 05:04 PM
He's wanting to ride on a Sat, Sun, & Mon. He was planning on driving down on a Friday.

I also haven't ran much of anything toward Chattanooga, I'm looking for a decent day ride somewhere soon.

frazier2209
01-27-2009, 05:53 PM
Planning on going to Tellico on April 3-5. Should be awesome if everything is open.

I'll ride Aetna with you any Sunday except Feb 7th. I'm sure we could probably drag Brad and a few other stragglers to go with us.

01 Tundra
01-28-2009, 08:00 AM
Planning on going to Tellico on April 3-5. Should be awesome if everything is open.

I'll ride Aetna with you any Sunday except Feb 7th. I'm sure we could probably drag Brad and a few other stragglers to go with us.

Cool, I'm in for the Tellico run. Wouldn't mind running Aetna the next time you guys are heading out there.

frazier2209
01-28-2009, 04:40 PM
Cool, I'm in for the Tellico run. Wouldn't mind running Aetna the next time you guys are heading out there.

How bout Aetna Feb. 22??

Plan on camping with us at Crawfords during Spring Fling

01 Tundra
01-28-2009, 04:50 PM
Should be able to make that.

I'm also trying to put together a ride at Harlan, KY in March.

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 08:08 AM
Got to do my first shake down run on a local farm, nothing really tough, but a good 1st run. I forgot how much fun the mix of TN mud/rocks/trees could be.....damn tree....no need to dovetail the front end now :)! Threw a High Angle U-bolt style 1350 yoke on the 14-bolt, good thing since I got to grind some rocks down with it yesterday......having these larger axles is gonna take some getting used to.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/samreduced.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/kelly.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/bryan.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/sami.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/rockshelf.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/tree.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/frontfender.jpg

Bear
02-09-2009, 08:11 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/frontfender.jpg

That'll buff out! ;)

My driver's side looked like that and with a bit of time and a little TLC with a set of Dolly's and a body hammer or two. you can barely see the damage.:D

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 08:23 AM
I used the big ass dead blow hammer and touch-up paint technique.....and it looks like a bag of smashed assholes.....as expected........but at least the door opens now :D!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/fixedfender.jpg

Bear
02-09-2009, 08:38 AM
yea, main thing is function. did you take the fender off to do the repairs?

Mine doesn't look much better but my does not have the big indents in it. Mine looks like I had a bag of elfs under the fender and they were trying to pound their way out! LOL. But from a distance you can't see the dents, just the places the paint has cracked and peeled off.

I figure it is a trail rig…so it adds character. but I might change out fenders if I ever find a decent price but I am not searching.

TacoCrazy
02-09-2009, 01:45 PM
Look like mine now..Damn trees..
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/TacoCrazy/DSC00597.jpg

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 01:50 PM
sweet, looks like the same damn tree got you :D!

TacoCrazy
02-09-2009, 01:55 PM
This was a tire lesson learned, do NOT go riding with your DD tires when you have a set of Bias TSL's, and wheels mounted ready to go, sitting at the house that you are to lazy to swap out. It was about a 15ft tall double step up out of a creek bed, slick and wet (of course) with a nice tree at the top.

gregers05
02-09-2009, 01:55 PM
Look like mine now..Damn trees..


...and me...

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i199/gregers05/morris%20mountain%20nov%2008/P1000528.jpg

gregers05
02-09-2009, 01:56 PM
dont ask how that happend btw. cause idk.

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 02:12 PM
.....and I get all the shit over one little tree incident.....you got trapped between to of those little sheet metal haters :D!

I think my excuse was worse.....I was too lazy to air down much because I didn't feel like cranking my CO2 bottle up afterwards :rolleyes:!

Bear
02-09-2009, 02:20 PM
...and me...

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i199/gregers05/morris%20mountain%20nov%2008/P1000528.jpg

I want to know how you recovered the truck.:confused: In Arkansas I bounced ontop of a cut tree stump and had to drive off the high lift after clearing the stump but how do you get the truck out of a wedge like that laterally?

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 02:22 PM
looks like he could have turned the wheels hard passenger side and backed out of that one possibly?

Bear
02-09-2009, 02:23 PM
yea! that is a pretty lame excuse for not airing down! about as bad as the time I used for not airing down…I was running low on Co2.

But now I can't even use that excuse. I just increased my OBA to include a 25 gallon tank. so even now if I do run out of Co2 I should have enough air in reserve to fill my tires up without touching the "bottle"

Bear
02-09-2009, 02:25 PM
I don't know about that, it appears the tire closest to the door would prevent any turning of the steering wheel.

Unless maybe he aired down more to allow the tire to flex on the bead.

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 02:29 PM
I used a guys York to air back up yesterday and that's the real deal! Shame I have zero space under the hood for one :rolleyes:........

Bear
02-09-2009, 02:42 PM
I need to see photos of under your hood! that is one thing I don't recall you ever posting!

but let's see if I can venture a guess on why you have no space…

PSC steering covering your passenger side fender, a couple of dry cell batteries in/near the stock location and a engine cage tucked up underneath the hood?

I am using a cheap little MV-50 or whatever that air compressor from Pep Boys is called. Been running it for a few years now since I put the ARB's in.

If it can't handle the work load of filling up the 25 gallon tank, I plan to swap over to one of the Viair's. I think they should fit in the same place as the current compressor with little to no modification needed.

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 02:55 PM
I'll have a picture of the engine well posted up in a few days.....right after I get finished installing the National Luna system to control my two Optima's......and the second Optima is actually crammed in next to the PSC reservoir and ARB compressor on the passenger fender well :flipoff4:!

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:01 PM
But my guess was close now wasn't it? LOL

If you have the ARB compressor, just do what I just did and add a storage tank, pressure switch and check valve. a couple of quick disconnects and you have a nice Oba system for both your lockers and auxiliary needs!

(boy did I take this off topic again, sorry)

but I am still waiting to hear how gregers got his truck out of the trees!

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 03:10 PM
But my guess was close now wasn't it? LOL

If you have the ARB compressor, just do what I just did and add a storage tank, pressure switch and check valve. a couple of quick disconnects and you have a nice Oba system for both your lockers and auxiliary needs!

(boy did I take this off topic again, sorry)

but I am still waiting to hear how gregers got his truck out of the trees!

Yeah, I've actually thought about adding a receiver tank.....

gregers05
02-09-2009, 03:12 PM
I want to know how you recovered the truck.:confused: In Arkansas I bounced ontop of a cut tree stump and had to drive off the high lift after clearing the stump but how do you get the truck out of a wedge like that laterally?


lol it took some work. but i ended up having to pull forward a little bit in order to turn passenger, pushing the front tree over more which made the other tree slide down the fender closer to the door area producing a bigger dent. it sounded real good too lol. when i put my doors back on the door couldnt close so i had to do some fender massasging from the inside with my fist lol. doesnt look too bad now

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:12 PM
I am waiting on one part I couldn't source locally to arrive tomorrow, then I am going to be ready to go.

I have just had enough time to start second guessing myself on if I should have up-graded the compressor or not. Guess I will know soon enough though.

but while adding the tank to my system I kept asking myself why I hadn't added the tank sooner. So if I was you, I would definitely think about it. even a 5 gallon tank would be an improvement over what you have now.

01 Tundra
02-09-2009, 03:18 PM
I've got my CO2 bottle plumbed to serve as a back up to run my locker's and a spare ARB compressor.....so I should be OK in that department.

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:22 PM
yea the last time I ran Harlan, I ended up having to use my Co2 bottle to run my lockers as well! I am definitely keeping my Co2 for insurance! I have been caught one too many times without air back up and have learned my lesson.

I have also seen two 20 lb Co2 tanks drained using air tools for a single trail fix. After awhile that can get expensive. So call this my recession modification. LOL

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:29 PM
it does sound like "a lot of fun" and another reason I guess not to run without doors. I can imagine getting a dent too bad to be able to put the doors back on, then where are you having to run back off the trail without doors (providing you are not trailering to begin with)

gregers05
02-09-2009, 03:32 PM
it does sound like "a lot of fun" and another reason I guess not to run without doors. I can imagine getting a dent too bad to be able to put the doors back on, then where are you having to run back off the trail without doors (providing you are not trailering to begin with)

i didnt even bring the doors with me to the trails. i took them off at home and drove 1.5hrs w/o doors.

gregers05
02-09-2009, 03:34 PM
yea the last time I ran Harlan, I ended up having to use my Co2 bottle to run my lockers as well! I am definitely keeping my Co2 for insurance! I have been caught one too many times without air back up and have learned my lesson.

I have also seen two 20 lb Co2 tanks drained using air tools for a single trail fix. After awhile that can get expensive. So call this my recession modification. LOL


thats what you get for running them fancy lockers!!! i have a 15lb co2 tank and havent used it for anything other than airing up yet. and hopefully thats how it will stay

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:40 PM
Oh!

I would have thought it to be illegal to drive on the road without doors, but I don't intend to start that no door debate again! so let me quash that before it starts!

I just think that image is priceless, good job on freeing up your truck.:kewl:

gregers05
02-09-2009, 03:43 PM
Oh!

I would have thought it to be illegal to drive on the road without doors, but I don't intend to start that no door debate again! so let me quash that before it starts!

I just think that image is priceless, good job on freeing up your truck.:kewl:


i wasnt exactly sure on how legal or not legal it was but i tried it anyways and drove right by a cop in the gas station parking lot and he didnt do anything so i figure its legal. also it was in alabama lol

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:44 PM
yea, well when I installed the Co2 tank, it was to be "in place of" an OBA system. I did not have the lockers when I put it in.

But I did the mod so that i could air tires up (we used to run a lot of places that did not have an air compressor close by) as well as be able to run air tools off of.

But with the natural evolution (hows that for tying this post into the thread title) of my truck with it's lockers, having Co2 as well as OBA makes great sense to me.

Bear
02-09-2009, 03:45 PM
… also it was in alabama lol

I think that part explains quite a bit about the legality of it. :D

gregers05
02-09-2009, 03:59 PM
I think that part explains quite a bit about the legality of it. :D

yep. i dont think i could get away with it back in atlanta lol

FAUX X 4
02-09-2009, 06:18 PM
I used the big ass dead blow hammer and touch-up paint technique.....and it looks like a bag of smashed assholes.....as expected........but at least the door opens now :D!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/fixedfender.jpg

Well.............. it's a start!........... If you wanna speed the process up, bring it to Az for some "Character Building" :D

01 Tundra
02-12-2009, 09:24 AM
More Moab prep......

Had Brent fab up a mount for my water can last night. Have a National Luna dual battery isolator/controller arriving today to throw in. Still have to fab up some sort of removable crossbar on the rear of the cage to mount my Thule storage bag onto, original plan was to simply strap in on top of the tentcot in the bed.....overlooked the fact that I would not be able to see out of the back window at all while traveling across country - not a well thought out plan! But I think I can come up with a way to mount it on top of the bed cage with a removable cross support.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/watercanholder1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/watercanholder2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/bed.jpg

Got my new spare TR & DL mounted up -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/DL-TR.jpg

Tentcot fits in the bed and can still see out the back window -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/tentcot-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/sideview-1.jpg

01 Tundra
02-13-2009, 07:29 AM
Got the dual batteries & controller finished up last night -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/batterycontroller.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/dualbatteries.jpg

brinner
02-13-2009, 12:22 PM
well lets see...your in the TN club and i saw the ..."WATER" carriers but what i dont see is what must be the TN club required "SHINE" carrier ? :D

01 Tundra
02-13-2009, 12:25 PM
Well see........it's a double duty carrier - shine for local runs and water when I ride out West ;)!

HillBilly_Young01
02-13-2009, 01:57 PM
yep. i dont think i could get away with it back in atlanta lol

colin does it from time to time i believe. i might be doing it here soon

98taco4x
02-13-2009, 02:38 PM
well lets see...your in the TN club and i saw the ..."WATER" carriers but what i dont see is what must be the TN club required "SHINE" carrier ? :D

Come on man you don't advertise that shit. Thats what secret compartments are for. Shine is better cold so keep it in the cooler.

dstrbdone
02-13-2009, 09:33 PM
Got the dual batteries & controller finished up last night -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/batterycontroller.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/dualbatteries.jpg

Over achiever:rolleyes:

ArkieTaco
02-14-2009, 01:20 PM
Are you going to make it to the takeover in Hotsprings,Ar ? Would love to see the truck!

01 Tundra
02-16-2009, 12:22 PM
Are you going to make it to the takeover in Hotsprings,Ar ? Would love to see the truck!

possibly, this years getting filled up quick on rides........

gregers05
02-16-2009, 12:41 PM
sweet shifter knobs;)

01 Tundra
02-16-2009, 12:44 PM
sweet shifter knobs;)

Summit Machine - great to work with.

01 Tundra
04-29-2009, 10:45 AM
I've been running standard U-joint style front drive shafts for the past 8 yrs on my rig and in 4WD the fastest I've ever been able to run is about 10 MPH before the truck started shaking badly. I've had 5 different front shafts on it over the years and the latest was the Tom Woods with a standard 1350 joint at the pinion and one of their 1350 "Super-Flex" joints up at the t-case. The super-flex joint has offset trunions to allow for more extreme angles and they almost guarantee that they will shake......well it worked as advertised - really great working angles, but anything over 5 MPH and the front end was almost jumping off the ground. I decided to take a gamble and send the shaft back to them to have a 1350 CV installed (in place of the super-flex joint up at the t-case) and decided to run a center limit strap on my axle to control the amount of drop out it has. Got the driveshaft reinstalled last night and I wanted to kick myself square in the arse......I got it up to 40 MPH and couldn't even tell it was in 4WD because it was so smooth.

I've never tried a CV because everything I've ever read says that the pinion should point dead at the t-case output, and mine never has. Ever axle I've put under the front of my truck has never worked out like that, they've always ended up between ideal for either style so I've always just ran standard joints up front. Currently my pinion is pointed 5 degrees lower than my t-case output, but it works great. I did have them do some very minor machining on the outside of the CV to maximize working angles (about 34 degrees max I would guess), so at full droop without a limit strap it doesn't bind at all.....but with a little spring wrap added in it could possibly bind.....so I added a 13" limit strap since it's cheap insurance.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/FrontCV.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/limitstrap2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/LimitStrap.jpg

FAUX X 4
04-29-2009, 11:59 AM
All that bling and fancy stuff and you couldn't figure this one out sooner??? :flipoff4:

I can drive my truck 80 mph on my HAD front shaft with a Toy CV at the t-case........... makes it nice for those long trips home to AZ from the Hammers! :D

01 Tundra
04-29-2009, 12:11 PM
All that bling and fancy stuff and you couldn't figure this one out sooner??? :flipoff4:

I can drive my truck 80 mph on my HAD front shaft with a Toy CV at the t-case........... makes it nice for those long trips home to AZ from the Hammers! :D

Well.......yeah, but everyone (High Angle & Tom Woods) have always talked me into the conventional style due to my pinion angle not being perfect for a CV. Think they were just covering their asses in case is still had good vibrations with the CV :rolleyes:!

The main reason I wanted to do it was because during the UA Fred Perry bent his rear driveshaft and didn't know it until we got on the road the next morning, he pulled the rear and ran on front wheel drive @ 50-60 MPH for about 300 miles to our next destination......if that would have been me, I would still be out there bouncing around at 5 MPH :D! I would have been happy just being able to drive 20 MPH so I wouldn't have to kick it in 2WD between tough spots like I've always had to do. With the high speed capability I have now I'm ready to take this beotch to the desert.......3" of up travel and all :D!

Oh yeah.....and......dick :)!

FAUX X 4
04-29-2009, 12:21 PM
Well.......yeah, but everyone (High Angle & Tom Woods) have always talked me into the conventional style due to my pinion angle not being perfect for a CV. Think they were just covering their asses in case is still had good vibrations with the CV :rolleyes:!

The main reason I wanted to do it was because during the UA Fred Perry bent his rear driveshaft and didn't know it until we got on the road the next morning, he pulled the rear and ran on front wheel drive @ 50-60 MPH for about 300 miles to our next destination......if that would have been me, I would still be out there bouncing around at 5 MPH :D! I would have been happy just being able to drive 20 MPH so I wouldn't have to kick it in 2WD between tough spots like I've always had to do. With the high speed capability I have now I'm ready to take this beotch to the desert.......3" of up travel and all :D!

Oh yeah.....and......dick :)!
:lmao:........... just had to do it! I can't tell you how many times (OK 5 :D) I've had to drive mine on just the front shaft after balancing my pig on the rear D-shaft............ It's also nice to be able to bomb around at 60-70 mph between trails in 4wd with 5" of uptravel and coilovers! :flipoff4:

01 Tundra
04-29-2009, 12:25 PM
That's one reason I keep going back to wanting to 3-link the front, but as low as my rig's sitting I wouldn't really gain any up travel.....so the leafs will have to do until they fall apart.

FAUX X 4
04-29-2009, 12:31 PM
That's one reason I keep going back to wanting to 3-link the front, but as low as my rig's sitting I wouldn't really gain any up travel.....so the leafs will have to do until they fall apart.

Never say never! ;)

........ what, do you mean to tell me you can't get those cute little 37's to stuff anymore?........... sounds to me like you need a :saw: 101 course! :flipoff4:

01 Tundra
04-29-2009, 12:40 PM
Naw, they stuff fine.....it's the whole oil pan vs. D-60 thing. I have a reverse sump, but at full (flat) compression my diff barely clears the oil pan (like .00001" since the diff has clearanced the pan on its own) and my ram will almost touch the pan. So it's more of a "having a real engine" thing :flipoff4:!


The tires will stuff as far as I will let them.....believe me - if it was just sheet metal it would have been dealt with long ago!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/100_0147.jpg

FAUX X 4
04-29-2009, 12:53 PM
I guess I can see your point........... having a 2.7 and a "custom" clearanced rear sump pan helps out with the stuff issues. :flipoff4:
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/FAUX_X_4/AzRocks_09/DSCF1116.jpg

NwiTACO
04-29-2009, 02:40 PM
Naw, they stuff fine.....it's the whole oil pan vs. D-60 thing. I have a reverse sump, but at full (flat) compression my diff barely clears the oil pan (like .00001" since the diff has clearanced the pan on its own) and my ram will almost touch the pan. So it's more of a "having a real engine" thing :flipoff4:!


The tires will stuff as far as I will let them.....believe me - if it was just sheet metal it would have been dealt with long ago!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v419/01tundra/100_0147.jpg

That's a nice corner of a bed cover in that picture...:D

01 Tundra
04-29-2009, 02:43 PM
Ha, I didn't even notice that - I musta been standing on your rig :rolleyes:!

frazier2209
04-29-2009, 08:52 PM
Saw you this weekend as you were leaving the werock comp. I dropped my old phone in the lake so I didn't have you number to holler at you.

Shoot me a PM with your number again

metalarts
04-30-2009, 05:38 AM
it's more of a "having a real engine" thing :flipoff4:!


oooooh - that stings just a bit :lmao:

01 Tundra
04-30-2009, 07:27 AM
oooooh - that stings just a bit :lmao:

Yeah well......I try to never pull out the big gun 'cause it covers most everyone here....but he had me backed into a corner :D!

metalarts
04-30-2009, 07:41 AM
Yeah well......I try to never pull out the big gun 'cause it covers most everyone here....but he had me backed into a corner :D!

yea, it looked that way :D


top notch build btw :cool:

Wes
04-30-2009, 09:35 AM
First thing I did when I finally got my ARBs and HAD (shortened Tacoma rear) driveline was do laps around my neighborhood at about 60 mph in 4WD. Drove everywhere in 4WD for about a month to break in front and rear.

It was hearing about fireman Dave driving back from Moab (16 hours plus) on his front only that finally encouraged me to save up a few bucks and pull the trigger.

Mr Tacomi
04-30-2009, 10:25 AM
I had to wait until I put a crawler in to be able to have room for the CV... when I installed the crawler, I put just the front CV d-shaft in (no rear), and ran it with hubs open, just to see what front vibration I'd have.... I was looking under the truck using hand on throttle... had the driveshaft going pretty good with no vibes, looked up at the speedo and it was over 90 MPH :eek: I had AJ turn my knuckles setup for CV, just couldn't install that shaft until crawler... before I was just like you, couldn't run anything above 20 MPH, but 5 was max I felt punishing the truck with, now I don't worry about locking or unlocking the hubs so much :D Also, I'll be able to drive on snow-covered roads at reasonable speeds (over 5) in 4WD... the drive to my folks' place in winter is over 200 miles of frozen road (packed ICE-gotta love no plowing in Oregon); being able to USE 4WD is a survival tactic.

Love your build, and took some tips on your Pirate posts about Engel mods Thanks!

FAUX X 4
04-30-2009, 10:39 AM
oooooh - that stings just a bit :lmao:

Just wait until I figure out how to get 2, 2.7's under the hood.......... then it's on! :lmao:

Mythica
04-30-2009, 05:43 PM
I have a CV on my front shaft and dont get any vibes in 4wd. But my solid u joints would burn up if i had to front wheel drive down the highway. At least thats what i was told would happen and i am not willing to risk it.

metalarts
05-01-2009, 03:27 AM
Just wait until I figure out how to get 2, 2.7's under the hood.......... then it's on! :lmao:


bah ha :lmao:

yea right, maybe one in front - one in back . . . .

Bear
05-01-2009, 07:22 AM
what type of joints do you have?

It all depends on condition of the ujoints and manufacture. If you are able to grease the joints via zerk fitting you should be okay as you can periodically stop and grease joints if need be.

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 07:26 AM
I have a CV on my front shaft and dont get any vibes in 4wd. But my solid u joints would burn up if i had to front wheel drive down the highway. At least thats what i was told would happen and i am not willing to risk it.

What are these solid u-joints you speak of man :D? Your rear driveshaft has solid u-joints and is always spinning, so I'm curious about what you've been told in more detail if you have it.

crolison
05-01-2009, 07:36 AM
Just wait until I figure out how to get 2, 2.7's under the hood.......... then it's on! :lmao:

I'd buy that kit :D

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 07:43 AM
damn.....after seeing FUX X 4's rig.....I really want 40's bad......punkass :D!

Bear
05-01-2009, 07:53 AM
damn.....after seeing FUX X 4's rig.....I really want 40's bad......punkass :D!
(in my best jack nichlson voice)

"YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE 4D'S" 4d's are for men like us who stand guard over people like you sitting comfortably behind you nice white picket fences, sipping your tea, while men like us stand at our post in blazing heat, or in freezing rain…









:flipoff1: :D

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 07:56 AM
If FUX can run 'em....so can I :flipoff4:!

Bear
05-01-2009, 08:04 AM
yea, I am sure "A" will really enjoy them as well!

what is the saying? lack of size in one department is compensated with oversize in tire size? :D

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 08:09 AM
Oh my fault.....did I accidently leave an "A" out of his name :D?

Bear
05-01-2009, 08:50 AM
I was talking about your "relief driver" AKA "co-pilot" AKA "main light of your life!"


:rolleyes:




:D

she is just now getting used to driving the pig on 37's and you are wanting to release her on 40's?:eek:

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 08:57 AM
yeah that and she's going to be doing some driving on another major run, coming up this summer, that I can't mention yet :rolleyes:...................

Wes
05-01-2009, 09:02 AM
yeah that and she's going to be doing some driving on another major run, coming up this summer, that I can't mention yet :rolleyes:...................

She finally going to wise up and get the hell out?

Bear
05-01-2009, 09:22 AM
hmmmm, I wonder what "that" could be?


Oh! I got it! you are finally going to let HER drive to the mall!

I gotcha! it is about time!

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 09:26 AM
She finally going to wise up and get the hell out?

Ha.....damn the West Coast hippies are getting up earlier in the morning these days huh :flipoff4:!

Mythica
05-01-2009, 10:01 AM
What are these solid u-joints you speak of man :D? Your rear driveshaft has solid u-joints and is always spinning, so I'm curious about what you've been told in more detail if you have it.


Sorry i wasnt very clear .... The u joints in the DS have needle bearings in them.

I have the Yukon super joints. There are no needle bearings.

I do grease them, but dont think i would want to cruise down the highway with them.

Was i told some BS about them burning up though?

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 10:07 AM
Ahhh - now you have my attention....considering I'm running the same joints :rolleyes:! But mine do have flush style zerk fittings on the caps also....I may still have the literature from mine laying around - I will have to investigate this further, I will be seeing the guy I bought mine from this weekend and he will know the real low down on this........

Mythica
05-01-2009, 10:15 AM
The zerks that came with mine dont have a hole in them, no grease goes through them, so i have to turn them off fill up the joint and then tighten them back on. Its a pain in the ass, but im too lazy to find different zerks.

Let me know what you find out.


Oh BTW, ive said it before, but Sick ass truck!!

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 10:23 AM
hmmmm, I was thinking I had the flush style on mine? I will take a look, but I have pretty much replaced any of mine that like to get sheared of by rocks with the flush style - especially the drive shaft slips and the bottom of my knuckles!

I think I got mine from McMaster-Carr, I will try to find a link. You have to use the right tip on your gun though - it's not the needle style tip that you see at all the auto parts stores.....

Mythica
05-01-2009, 10:33 AM
I use the grease gun that came with the joints.

Lol i would hope/think it should work....

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 10:46 AM
1/4"-28 UNF flush style grease fittings -

http://www.mcmaster.com/#10595k14/=1oojhj

This is where I bought the adapter from -

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Industrial-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1241192734&sr=8-1

I need to check and confirm that the joint caps have the same size/thread zerks, but this is what I use everywhere else on my rig and they work well.

FAUX X 4
05-01-2009, 10:48 AM
damn.....after seeing FUX X 4's rig.....I really want 40's bad......punkass :D!

You can buy mine so I can get 42's. :flipoff4:

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 10:52 AM
You can buy mine so I can get 42's. :flipoff4:

Morning sunshine....nice of you to join us! I'm working on scoring a set for a very reasonable price ;)!

FAUX X 4
05-01-2009, 10:55 AM
Morning sunshine....nice of you to join us! I'm working on scoring a set for a very reasonable price ;)!

You're going to have to limit you up travel to 1 inch now.......... or lose those pretty plastic fender flares! :flipoff4:

01 Tundra
05-01-2009, 11:04 AM
Lose my pretty plastic flares.....not gonna happen :flipoff4:! Naw, they'll clear, I'll just have to trim a little more on the rears. Good news is now that I'm running a Saginaw box on the inside of the frame rail I don't have to worry about the tire molesting the steering box anymore.....

FAUX X 4
05-01-2009, 11:12 AM
Lose my pretty plastic flares.....not gonna happen :flipoff4:! Naw, they'll clear, I'll just have to trim a little more on the rears. Good news is now that I'm running a Saginaw box on the inside of the frame rail I don't have to worry about the tire molesting the steering box anymore.....

They'll find a new place! :lmao:

BOVADS
05-01-2009, 12:53 PM
You can buy mine so I can get 42's. :flipoff4:

yeah cause you dont do this nearly enough:D
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh191/BOVADS/az%20rocks%2009/azrocks010.jpg

FAUX X 4
05-01-2009, 12:56 PM
That's exactly what I was thinking! :flipoff4:

I have flanges now, so everything will be OK! :lmao:

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 07:26 AM
flanges just means you are moving your weak point farther inward my friend.....ask me how I know about moving the weak link in so far that when it goes you will be wishing it was a $50 lockout that broke :rolleyes:..........

metalarts
05-04-2009, 07:57 AM
flanges just means you are moving your weak point farther inward my friend.....ask me how I know about moving the weak link in so far that when it goes you will be wishing it was a $50 lockout that broke :rolleyes:..........


x2

hubs can be a pain but if you think of them like a "fuse", there not so silly compared to other internals -

brinner
05-04-2009, 09:07 AM
thats kinda what my plan was, use the "Warn Fuses" and save everything else on the inside....... is that not a realistic plan :confused:

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 09:13 AM
thats kinda what my plan was, use the "Warn Fuses" and save everything else on the inside....... is that not a realistic plan :confused:

I've heard they can be a pain in the ass, but it would definitely be the safe route. I like think that the actual locking hub assembly is my fuse........

brinner
05-04-2009, 09:16 AM
so if you WERE to get 40's.....with your setup (engine, axles, gears, blah blah blah...) what would be YOUR ideal tire?

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 09:18 AM
I would like to run the BFG KM 2's, but would have to regear from 4.88 to 5.13 and I'm not going to do that. I may run some of the 38" KM 2's next though.

brinner
05-04-2009, 09:21 AM
so why the small tires? you could be running 39.5's or 40's with your setup couldnt you?

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 09:23 AM
so why the small tires? you could be running 39.5's or 40's with your setup couldnt you?

Don't want to (or have the money to) regear. Plus, my rig is a daily driver and 37's work well on the road.

brinner
05-04-2009, 09:26 AM
aaahhh i c

frazier2209
05-04-2009, 10:15 AM
why would you want to have something that you know will probably break??

NwiTACO
05-04-2009, 10:19 AM
why would you want to have something that you know will probably break??

Why do you have fuses/breakers in your house?, to save more expensive shit from breaking/frying/burning your house down. Same concept here.

Bear
05-04-2009, 10:33 AM
Why do you have fuses/breakers in your house?, to save more expensive shit from breaking/frying/burning your house down. Same concept here. X2

why would you want to have something that you know will probably break??

We all wish we would not break parts, but we have come to the realization that it is going to happen. With that concept, it makes more economic sense to direct that breakage toward the cheaper and "easier" parts to fix.

I know with my life time warranty on my hubs, I would much rather blow one of them than to grenade a set of gears or locker…oh wait I have already done both. :mad:

FAUX X 4
05-04-2009, 10:58 AM
My weak point should be the crappy little 1310 u-joint on the drive shaft. For some reason, every time I blow a hub, it seizes up and blows a stub shaft. This is my temporary/permanent solution while I build a big boy axle to replace it. :D

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 10:59 AM
Grenade a few ring & pinions and you will understand my reasoning - I would rather spend 15 minutes changing a locking hub, instead of dealing with a broken axle, R&P, output shaft, etc.

dstrbdone
05-04-2009, 11:03 AM
flanges just means you are moving your weak point farther inward my friend.....ask me how I know about moving the weak link in so far that when it goes you will be wishing it was a $50 lockout that broke :rolleyes:..........

With your luck its all a weak point.

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 11:06 AM
With your luck its all a weak point.

good point.......asshat :flipoff4:

FAUX X 4
05-04-2009, 11:18 AM
Grenade a few ring & pinions and you will understand my reasoning - I would rather spend 15 minutes changing a locking hub, instead of dealing with a broken axle, R&P, output shaft, etc.

The way this axle has been acting lately, I could only hope that'll be the case! :lmao:

My chromo ring and pinion has survived some pretty substantial carnage and keeps on ticking. I've blown 3 hubs and 3 stubs....... and every time the damn lockouts go boom a stub goes with it. I'm going to keep an extra set of chromo axles in the tool, box and a 1310 u-joint for the driveshaft... we'll see which one I wind up replacing next! ;)

This axle is running on borrowed time as it is, I'm just trying to milk it a little longer while I build it's replacement.

frazier2209
05-04-2009, 11:32 AM
Why do you have fuses/breakers in your house?, to save more expensive shit from breaking/frying/burning your house down. Same concept here.

Far from the same concept. I just can't understand why you would want to KNOW you had a weak link.

Grenade a few ring & pinions and you will understand my reasoning - I would rather spend 15 minutes changing a locking hub, instead of dealing with a broken axle, R&P, output shaft, etc.

Jonathan, don't ever really see you breaking any of the latter 3 items you just named. But you could def. blow up a hub. Why would you want to blow up and hub when you probably wouldn't break anything at all?? You could run an ARB with flanges and accomplish the same thing...better actually.

frazier2209
05-04-2009, 11:34 AM
But for those of you that love your hubs so much. I have a WARN 35 spline lockout I will make you a deal on. If you would like to have a spare....fuse that is.

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 11:53 AM
But for those of you that love your hubs so much. I have a WARN 35 spline lockout I will make you a deal on. If you would like to have a spare....fuse that is.

I may be interested in that, PM me a price - I'm assuming it's for a D60? As far as flanges go, I'm running mine down the interstate so that's not a very good option for me.

Mythica
05-04-2009, 01:02 PM
Ahhh - now you have my attention....considering I'm running the same joints :rolleyes:! But mine do have flush style zerk fittings on the caps also....I may still have the literature from mine laying around - I will have to investigate this further, I will be seeing the guy I bought mine from this weekend and he will know the real low down on this........


Did you talk to your buddy rearding running the Yukons down the highway. I take it from your latest post that you have.....


As far as the fuse issue goes...... I would like to run flanges, but the jury is still out on wether that will destroy my axle u joints. From what i was told the yukon super joints will burn up at highway speeds.

01 Tundra
05-04-2009, 01:06 PM
Yeah, I knew I was forgetting something.... He said as long as you hit them with some grease every so often it wouldn't be an issue, but I have no idea how long they will survive between greasing. And mine did come with those flush style zerk fittings I linked, I tried to throw some grease in mine yesterday, but they wouldn't hardly take any. I'm going to do some more looking on Yukon's site and probably call our local Randy's Ring & Pinion to ask them also.