: changing my own oil


-dustin
06-12-2005, 08:38 PM
i want to start changing my own oil, in order to switch to a synthetic oil, and to get to know my truck a little better. however, i have never done this. i have nothing to prop my truck on, so i would just be resting my head on the street/ asphalt, under the truck.

how hard is this going to be? i envision oil just gushing into my face, or spilling everywhere as i try to take off the oil filter. any tips?

i've seen a few posts mention the FRAM plug-thing. would that be something worthwhile to invest in right away? preferred oil filters? i've seen mention of the oversized ones, but can't remember any product numbers.

and since i have your attention, is the old addage of 3mo/3000 miles just not relevent anymore? my last oil change at Toyota was at 96,--- miles. the sticker they placed on my windshield says my next one isn't due until 111,--- miles. bad math, perhaps, or legit?

Bryanccfshr
06-12-2005, 08:52 PM
What truck and engine do you have? You won't need anything but a socket set, the filter shouldn't be tighter than a man can remove by hand.

Go to autozone or Pep Boys and buy yourself a nice 15 qt drain pan and some shop rags. While you are there go to the book by the filters and find the one that fits your truck.

Oil change interval and oil & filter selection are something you will have to be determined by what you are comfortable doing. Go to http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php to get more than you can handle. The 3k/3 month OCI is a marketing scam. With a quality synthetic you can extend to 6-12 months 6-15k miles depending on the type of use you are using the truck for. Most people settle in on 6 or 12 months after some time.

atwinda
06-12-2005, 09:04 PM
If you have the 3.4l you won't be removing the oil filter from underneath the truck. The 3.4l drain plug is 14mm, or 9/16 standard. A trick I just used the other day was to put a plastic bag under the oil filter as I took it off, to catch all the oil- rather than dropping the skid plate.

As far as oil, and oil filter are concerned- Most people rave about Amsoil, which is a pain to get your hands on. I use a Mobil 1 filter, and Mobil 1 10w-30 full syn- I fall somewhere in the 6-12 month range depending on usage during that period (more higher revs, or towing, etc... would mean changing sooner)

-dustin
06-12-2005, 09:28 PM
yeah, it's a 3.4. 99 4x4 V6. thanks for these words.

Paul
06-12-2005, 09:37 PM
I use the Toyota OEM filters. I've heard good things about them, and they are priced well.

Bryanccfshr
06-12-2005, 11:28 PM
Before this degrades into an "I use this" Thread let us remember this is a "How to Change the oil in a 3.4" thread"


Here is a list of oils that I would trust for extended intervals. Amsoils s2000, Amsoil S3000, Mobil 1 ow30, 5 w30 and 10 w30 (if you can find any SL rated oil) If you se the SM rating on the back of Mobil-1 don't use it for extended drains. Use the Mobil EP synthetics in that case (they Have SL additive levels.)

If you plan on keeping the intervals shiorter the newer SM rated synthetic formulas will be fine (by short I mean less than 6-7K miles)

Toyota Filters available at the dealer are very good filters. If you want to extend the life of your oil you may want to use a larger than stock filter... The M1 209, and its Amsoil equivelent are top notch filters but run 10-11 bucks for less you can get a pure 1 or a Ford Motorcraft fl400s. This increases capacity, increased capacity allows more oil (usually about half a quart to be used extending its usefull life.)

To change the filter just go in through the drivers side wheel well. If you don't have a Bodylift this will be tight but you can still reach it if you turn the wheel the right direction and remove the splash guard in front of the upper control arm. The filter is right there, turn counterclockwise and use a 1 gallon ziplock bag once you break it lose to catch any oil since the filter is pointed with the open end towards earth.

Making as little mess as possible remove the filter (this will take practice:lmao: )

Lube the new filters gasket with new motor oil and screw it on turning it clockwise. Once you feel it start to get tight against the block turn it around 1/2 to 3/4 turn, most filters will give this instruction on the box or filter itself.

If you have the 9/16 or 14mm socket with an extension you don't need to remove the skid plate... Turn the drain plug counter clockwise, when it breaks lose place the drain pan underneath (mostly too the rear of the vehicle too) the oil pan. Now remove the drain plug completely being carefull not to burn yourself with the sclading hot oil.

At this point you may notice that you don't like scalding hot oil running down your wrist. I recomend the Fram Sure Drain http://rustysoffroad.com/article_framsuredrain.html
or Fumoto valves
http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/index.php?cPath=12&html=fumoto.htm
Although the Fumoto is pretty trick for an offroad truck the sure drain is a much better idea. Inexpensive and you won't ever need to use a tool to change your oil once thia sure drain is installed. How easy can it be? Although Fram gets bashed for there ":Oil " filters I give them props for the sure drain product.

any how by now all your oil is either in the oil pan or your garage floor if you reacted by jumping up and banged your head on your lower control arm when your arm got scalded by hot oil.. thus you are unconcious and oil is all on your back...HOT oil!

So it is time to put the plug back in our install a Sure drain.

After this is done and properly torqued it is time to pour your oil into the crankcase.


You see them fancy pants TV and Magazine writeups where they piour right out of the bottle into the fill hole. If you insist on trying this buy 1 extra quart of oil.. Otherwise get a funnel and pour 5.5 to six quarts of fine motor oil into your crankcase.

Replace the fill cap clean everything up and start the engine, let it idle for a few seconds and look at your filter and drain plug , checking for leaks. IF no leaks shut the engine down give it a few minutes and check your oil level. Add as needed to the "full" line.


Document your oilchange so you know when you did it. Check level every 500 miles or so. It is common for the oil to darken or level to drop in the first 500-1000 miles when switching to synthetic. Just top off as needed.



Enjoy.

hawaiianbro
06-12-2005, 11:30 PM
I use the Toyota OEM filters. I've heard good things about them, and they are priced well.

Same here......btw one question.

Is it possible for me to switch from dino oil to half-synthetic? And then from there switch to full synthetic?

Thanks,
Kaleo

-dustin
06-12-2005, 11:40 PM
Same here......btw one question.

Is it possible for me to switch from dino oil to half-synthetic? And then from there switch to full synthetic?

Thanks,
Kaleo

from the searching/ reading i've done, i'm simply going to run a Sea Foam treatment, go about 100miles, then go straight to full synth.

Bryanccfshr, this scolding hot oil has me a little concerned. if i wait a few hours...6 or 7, even, will the oil still be hot? would it be a bad idea to change the oil in the morning after letting the truck sit overnight?

Bryanccfshr
06-12-2005, 11:41 PM
Same here......btw one question.

Is it possible for me to switch from dino oil to half-synthetic? And then from there switch to full synthetic?

Thanks,
Kaleo

You could do it that way but there really is no need to transition. THere are some good Blends, and there are some good synthetics. Choose the oil that best fits your needs. Don't be one of "those" guys who hang out on Oil boards talking about Newtonion theory and its relation to apparent viscosity :rolleyes: :D . There is more to life..

Bryanccfshr
06-12-2005, 11:55 PM
from the searching/ reading i've done, i'm simply going to run a Sea Foam treatment, go about 100miles, then go straight to full synth.

Bryanccfshr, this scolding hot oil has me a little concerned. if i wait a few hours...6 or 7, even, will the oil still be hot? would it be a bad idea to change the oil in the morning after letting the truck sit overnight?

It was mostly in jest;) . In my opinion it is best to drain the motor with the oil fairly warm. Especially since you are changing the type of oil you are using, The hotter the better for getting the majority of the old oil out, let it drain as long as it takes as well. your not in a hurry are you? cold oil chnges will leave alot of gunk behind.

:soapbox: As far as flushes with solvents.. I am against that. There are some phenomenal cleaning products on the market but they all take time and don't use solvent one takes at least 3000 miles to treat the engine.
If you must flush with a solvent don't drive with it in your crankcase. Pour about half a pint of Seafoam in the crankcase and start the truck, run it at high idle (1k rpm) for half an hour and shut it down and proceed with the oil change. Again I don't like the idea of putting a load on the engine with solvent pumping through the bearings.
These solvents can break down the polymers used to improve the viscosity of the thin base oiled dino oil currently residing in your crankcase. This is bad becasue it cuts the effective viscosity and lubricity of the oil pumping through your bearings and on the sliding surfaces. Would you pour that much gasoline or water in the crankcase and drive? To me light mineral spirits are the same in regards to the effect they have on the oil.. great for the lawn mower though. sorry about the rant.

NorcalPR
06-13-2005, 10:09 PM
Do a search on oil filters on yahoo or google. You'll be surprised which filter is which and how much one filter is better than brand X.

I use a mobil one, model number M1-209 (oversized oil filter) and I love it. I use M1 5-30 fully synthetic and it got rid of the fluttering when almost full throttle, and my engine and oil will be happier.

I like that plastic bag Idea. I'm going to try that. Anyone else got any tips on the oil filter? I just use gloves and get oil all over the disposible gloves.