View Full Version : CYi5's '99 4Runner Build
Seeing so many other buildups I thought I'd share mine as well. Chalk me up as another fan of craigslist.
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Vehicle
1999 Toyota 4runner Limited
3.4L V6 + E-Locker -> 4.30's stock
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Modifications
Suspension:
Donahoe Racing Extended Coilovers - 2.25"
Camburg Engineering Upper Control Arms
Timbren Front Bumpstops
OME 890 Rear coils + N86C shocks
Sonoran Steel Adjustable Panhard
Airbags
Wheels & Tires:
285/75/16 Nitto Terragrapplers
16x8 4.5BS American Racing Chamber Teflons
Protection:
ARB Tacoma Winch Bullbar (Matching powdercoat)
Performance:
Elbow mod
AirAid MIT
Lighting:
2x Hella 4000 Metal Driving lights - HID 6000K Conversion
Interior:
Pioneer 5900IB Head Unit
Kicker 10" solobaric + Kicker 750w amp
ICOM IC-V8000 Ham Radio
Scanguage II
Exterior:
20% Front Window Tint
Yakima Roof Mounting System
Mods still to add
Stubbs HD-SKO sliders
Winch - Warn M8000 or Summit/T-maxx 9000 + Synthetic Rope
Note: This is a replacement vehicle for my last truck which I put way too much time and effort into. What I did gain from those years of modding was a love of Toyota quality and knowledge of modification.
R.I.P. Duke
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DR Coilovers ~ Camburg UCA's ~ Deaver 10 leaf ~ DR Rear Resi's ~ ARB Bullbar ~ Allpro Rear Wraparound ~ Hella 4000 HID's ~ Off Axis Sliders ~ 255/85/16 Maxxis Bighorns ~ Etc.
Some parts I was able to salvage and swap over to the new rig, namely lights, interior goodies, and coilovers.
For those looking to purchase a 3rd Gen 4Runner read on, if you already own one, feel free to skip forward.
While I love having a truck for keeping me and cargo separate, the lack of space for passengers was always an issue. I almost purchased another Tacoma when the 4Runner popped into my head as an option.
The 4Runner is essentially a Tacoma; same front suspension and engine, so I already had knowledge on how to work on the vehicle. After much research about what year I was looking for, I narrowed it down to 1999-2000. They are essentially the same vehicle so either was fine with me. I picked these two years mainly because of the transfer case. These are the only two years Toyota offered the Multi-mode transfercase. It offers 2hi, 4hi, 4lo, and AWD. Planning to move somewhere with snowy winters I knew I wanted the AWD option. The limited models were the only ones offered with this transfercase so that helped narrow my decision down even further. From my previous experience with a TRD 4x4 Tacoma, I also knew how invaluable the locker was. As an added bonus, 4Runners with an e-locker and 265/70 sized tires stock typically came with 4.30 gears, compared to the normal 4.10's of other 4Runners and Tacomas. This helps take the edge off of 285/75 tires or perfect for 265/75's.
So the search was on browsing autotrader, craigslist, and ebay among others. Keeping your eye out for that locker button on the dash is key to this part of the search, as most owners won't even know what it does and if you ask them if it has an electronic locker on it they will ask what it is. Eventually with some luck, you'll come out with a cleaner rig than your previous and for a good amount less than insurance paid out!
It's simply more comfortable plain and simple. While the interior is a little cheesy, the leather seats and overall climate inside the 4Runner is plush.
From previous experience with my Tacoma, I knew Donahoe Racing coilovers (now icon vehicle dynamics) gave the best all around ride for pretty much all environments. I always said if I were to do it again I would go OME all around, but since I was able to salvage my DR's I threw them on the 4Runner.
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Because they are extended, I needed to pick up some new UCA's too. I never had an issue running my old Camburg UCA's on the Tacoma and spending an extra $300 just wasn't worth it for Total Chaos.
I appreciated the added stability to the front end compared to stock.
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The Timbren bump stops that are added to the lower control arms make the ride night and day. It really softens up the big dips and nosedives when off road. If you can pick up a used set like I did, they are definitely worth it. The $150 retail price tag is a bit steep but I think they are a necessary addition to the front end short of airbumps.
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For the rear I read that if you are going to get OME springs, it is best to match an OME shock to it as well. So far my experience with the 890's has been good paired with the N86C comfort shock. It seems apparent that I will need to upgrade to the 891's (more constant load capability) as I will be adding a drawer system soon. However, they perform well on the street and the dirt, true coil comfort.
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It came installed with airbags from the previous owner and they do a good job of keeping the rear elevated when loaded. I also picked up the Sonoran steel adjustable panhard bar as I wanted to do it right the first time. In hindsight I would have just stayed with the stock bar. The difference when adjusted to the lift height of the 890's (2.5") is maybe 1/4" difference. Certainly not enough to justify the pricetag. Now if I ever upgrade to some Land Cruiser FZJ80 coils, I will be happy I have the ability to adjust. But for now, it just looks burly under there.
As far as communication goes, I ran CB radios for a few years with mixed results. Sometimes it would be nice and crisp and other times it would be crazy feedback. Eventually the guys I go wheeling with and myself switched over to HAM radios. The clarity is awesome and range is even better. I chose the ICOM IC-V8000 as there is a lot of information on it in the desert racing world, plus I got a sweet rebate from the purchase.
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I was really trying not to go ghetto on this rig as it is essentially a weekend wheeler, with 90% of its life on the streets. So in the interest of passenger legroom, I mounted the radio in the DIN slot underneath my head unit. At times it will interfere with my music, while most of the time it works fine. I ran an extension from the back of the HAM underneath the carpet and out an existing slot in the carpet under the passenger seat. This way I just throw on my magnet antenna, route the antenna down the back of the runner and up along the passenger side under the carpets.
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As a fun toy left over from my Tacoma is the ScanGuage II. It's a pretty useful tool for comparing snorkel temps with your buddies or just as a code reader. Every time I hit rough dirt I tend to throw a CEL for an O2 sensor, when I know for a fact that it was replaced just before I purchased it. I can simply reset it with the ScanGuage and I can go on with my life without that pesky light staring at me.
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Because it's a daily driver, I do have some audio equipment in it. If I didn't get a serious price cut from Kicker I probably wouldn't have these goodies, but they are hard to resist. They include the headunit, a 750w amp under the driver's seat, and the 10" solobaric sub in box. I plan to build a drawer system around it this weekend, at which time I can remove the sub while wheeling and place my air compressor in the same cubby hole.
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I had initially planned to run 16x8 Land Cruiser rims, and actually purchased them. While they were being shipped to me, a deal came up on customtacos for 285/75/16 Nitto Terragrapplers mounted on 16x8 American Racing Teflon Chambers. I had always wanted to run these rims since my Tacoma days, and I was also set on Nitto Terragrapplers due to their impressive offroad performance combined with quiet sound levels at highway speeds.
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They haven't failed me yet, we'll see how they do in the snow in a few days. The next set will probably be more terragrapplers but in the 265/75 size for a little more power.
Plans always do seem to change. I was dead set on getting a Shrockworks bumper for the front of this rig. The 10 week waiting period was somewhat of a turn off plus the idea of having to cut into my grill to run my Hella 4000's. That's what it takes to get quality I guess, but driving long stretches on the 395 last month made me want to speed up the addition of my lights back onto the rig. I came upon a new in box ARB Tacoma bumper that I was familiar with from having one on my old truck.
As it's pretty much a street queen right now anyways, I decided to have it powder coated to match the rest of the limited package trim.
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The mounting of the ARB on the 4Runner seems way more stout that it was on my 2001 Tacoma. The Tacoma requires an added block to lengthen the frame. This entails bolts going through the already weak framehorns. The 4Runner uses the tow hook bolts as well as a bolt placed through the frame. I feel much more confident winching with the 4Runner when the time comes.
I recently go my lights mounted and wired up as well, I can turn night into day once again. The are Hella 4000 metal driving lights that have been converted to use a 6000k HID kit. If you are interested in doing this conversion it can be seen here (http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82281). This can be done for around $250, a worthy price for what you get.
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I will try to get a night pic up later for you to see the comparisons.
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Johnson Valley, CA
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Tea Kettle Junction. Death Valley, CA
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Death Valley, CA
School and work don't leave much time for wheeling :( More trips soon to come! Stay tuned!
Finally got around to taking pictures of projects I've put together lately.
First up, a pretty basic cargo storage platform. I made it wrap around my sub box to keep it low as well as secure it where it sits. I anchored the box down using the stock tie-down locations using the body nuts. It's nice having a wide short cubby as well as a long skinny one.
I initially started building drawers but ditched the idea for lack of sliders as well as tools to make them stout enough. It allows me to carry gear I would normally have in my old truck's toolbox; tow strap, first aid, jumper cables, straps/netting, tool roll, breaker bar, bolt cutters, extra water.
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One of the sides was perfect for storing maglights, an otherwise wasted piece of space.
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I relocated the tiedowns to the front of the platform, this holds my military box full of camping stuff, when I go on the next outing i'll update a pic of how it is secured using straps.
It's just tall enough not to block the side cubby from opening.
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I'm really happy how it increases the organized space in the runner and it really helped on hauling snow camping gear for 4 up to Mammoth for a week.
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I also upgraded the headunit awhile back, simply because I had a hookup and it cost me $40 for the upgrade.
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For those of you who have switched out your headunits, an unfortunate side effect is that your power antenna goes up as soon as your radio powers on, regardless of whether you're in CD/iPod or radio. It really makes me nervous taking a power antenna through low hanging trees, so I wired up an interrupt switch for the antenna. I also don't like having unnecessary drag while driving (slim i know..) and it reduces wear on the antenna motor.
It's a blue/white wire for those looking to do the same on a metra wiring harness. I placed the switch down by my feet in a factory metal plate.
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With the OME 890's and DR's cranked to around 2.25" of lift, the truck sat almost dead level. While this looks and performs great when empty, as soon as I added weight for a trip the rear would sag. To remedy the increase in weight, I would often fill up the airbags a bit and that equals a bouncy ride when wheeling.
To alleviate the stress on the airbags I added a set of 10mm OME trim packers to the rear. This would allow the suspension to compress as normal without hard bottom outs or rubbing. The trim packers optimally should have a stock bumpstop to keep them centered in the spring, something the previous owner ditched when they installed airbags. Thanks to wmflyfisher who donated his stock cones for the project! I had to cut off half of the bump to fit it inside the spring in combination with the airbag.
The stock bump lip plus the 10mm OME ring resulted in 3/4" lift, not bad for $50 in parts & shipping.
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The running boards went back on due to a move as well as rock protection when I ran the Mojave road. I'm itching to pick up some Stubbs sliders, but just graduating college + wanting to move somewhere internationally is holding it up.
The time finally came to deck out the yakima crossbars with offroad goodies that don't belong inside. The heavy items are mounted on 48" crossbars.
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Components: Shovel, 60" Hi-Lift, 39½" x 36" x 2¾" Roof Basket
Utilizing Yakima snaparounds, I mounted the 60" Hi-lift using 5/16" carriage bolts, the square seat fits much better in the snaparounds than the bolts supplied with them. 5/16" fender washers also fit perfectly in the hi-lift grooves preventing any shifting.
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For the shovel, I used snaparounds again for the mounts, fabricated a metal sleeve for the blade to fit in up front, and ended up with a quickfist to hold the handle.
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The roof basket took a little more consideration. I knew i wanted it low to avoid excess drag and tree branch contact. To fit where I needed it it also had to be less than 40"x36". After a little searching online I found a strong candidate. The Rooftop Cargo Rack from www.discountramps.com was perfect! 39½" x 36" x 2¾" and only 14 lbs! With a price of $100 shipped I couldn't pass it up.
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After a little juggling of the crossbars and reversing the front factory bars I was able to get it on. I mounted the basket to the factory bars instead of the yakimas for a few reasons. 1) It would mount lower. 2) It would mount behind the yakima wind fairing. 3) The rack mounts fit the factory curves better. 4) It barely fits between the yakima bars mounted up, i'm talking centimeters!!
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Notes about the rack quality. It's capacity is 150lbs, and that is obviously evenly distributed. The crossbars are a little flimsy besides the metal rods that brace the brackets. I almost wish the entire floor was made out of those rods, however that would also increase the weight. I foolishly thought the sides would be laser cut solid pieces, however, they appear to be stamped sheet metal. But really, for $79 and the fact that it fits my needs and dimensions perfectly, this thing is a steal.
DiscountRamps also has stretch nets for baskets for around $15 shipped, I will end up buying one of those eventually to keep my light cargo secure.
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