Rear Axle Choices

[Timbuddha]

Well, after almost five years of wheeling, I do believe that my TRD axle's days are numbered. Its starting to leak gear oil from from the top of the of the axle on both sides and it looks like the rear axle seals are going to need to be changed here pretty soon as well. We just got a pay raise here in my district and I was thinking of upgrading. Here are my choices

1. Front range off-road rear axle (Tacoma Length)- Brian makes some sick axles and I think he is running a special until the end of the month on his bare housings. Which means I could run these as well.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=86&cat=65&page=1

2. Front Range off-road rear axle (Tundra length) Wider is better, but that would mean that I would also have to up grade the front to a wider axle and I have way too much in this waggy front axle.

3. Dana 60- Stout and heavy, but bulletproof. $$$$ Curries Rock Jock rear can be had for $3000 fully loaded, but I don't know if I am ready to make that plunge.

What do you guys think? Should I up grade or should I just try to fix this one up. I won't be running anything bigger than 37s on this rig in case that is a question that comes up. :lmao:

[PappaF2]

Tim it seems one of the main people are upgrading from the trd rear end is becasue they have a tendancy to shed their teeth. :D I mean there are plenty of guys out their running toy 8" with big ass tires that are doing ok so it has fot to be working for some people. I think having a new fabricated axle housing for the trd rear would help it live longer by reducing the amount the housing can flex and thus causing ring gear destruction. :explode: With the addition of those polyperformance cromo shafts that axle could be styling! :cool:
But I think that if you are going to spend that much money on a new housing and shafts for your 8" you may as well just step up to a burlier axle. I guess front range is now making fabricated 9" housings which would allow you to get a bigger ring gear and 35 spling 1.5" shafts. There are plenty of other manufaturers out there though that also make custom 9" housings that are an option as well. Currie, chassisworks fab 9's, sunray eng., etc.
The 9" would help you keep it light and keep the clearance.

[Toyasaurus]

I now robert cannon upgraded his rear to a custom 9 inch and did disks at the same time. Mikes web page might have a link to it. Not sure where he picked it up but I am pretty sure it was under 3 grand.

[Timbuddha]

I hear you, but I am also trying to keep costs down. I figure that if I upgrade the housing, I am not spending a boat load and my wife won't yell at me as much :bitchslap . Ideally, I would really like one of Currie's Rock Jock housings, as I have seen them in action and they just slide over the rocks, but in reality, they are running in the mid $3k range which is alot to be spending. Its only money right? :xbeer1:

Hey Todd, what do you think, should I stay Tacoma width or go wider? :xrocker: :xrocker:

[Timbuddha]

Robert's 9 inch is freaking awesome! He is right, it does like like a stealth fighter.

[zszac111]

dont run a D60 unless you plan on running 38+ tires or shaving the hell out of it, mine is a boat anchor with 39.5's. i dont have that much money in mine since i run a full spool, 30 spline chromos, and have rear disk, i think i may have a grand or so in the rear setup??? 9"'s are cool but unless you go custom the pinion kinda hangs low. i would just make sure its a full floater and 30 spine or bigger..

[gambrinus]

Well, after almost five years of wheeling, I do believe that my TRD axle's days are numbered. Its starting to leak gear oil from from the top of the of the axle on both sides and it looks like the rear axle seals are going to need to be changed here pretty soon as well.

So, just what is it that makes you think your axle's days are numbered? Axle seals - $10 in parts and 30 minutes each side and you are good to go. Whats this about leaking gear oil from the top of the axle?

But to answer your question I think you should just fix the one you have. Its definately the least expensive option. A FROR housing is a good idea in that it will give you a nice beefy housing for bashing on rocks. You could even swap over all your exising stuff and be up and running in no time. Then as time/$$$ permits you can easily go with disks, full float, cromos, etc.

If you are concerned about the strength of the toyota 8" then the 9" would be my next choice.

I wouldn't go with a 60 unless I spent the $$$ for some aftermarket high clearance diff.

As far as width goes, I wouldn't want to be wider in the rear than the front and unless you want to upgrade your front as well ;)

later!
shane

[Timbuddha]

Shane-

The gear oil leaking from the top of the axle is a mystery to me, but I have heard that TRD axles have a tendency to be weak in the areas of the spring perches. Well, that is exactly where it is leaking from. Granted, its not bad, but it does concern me in the sense that I worry that there is some crack just waiting to open up. At this point I would rather spend the money on other things, but I also don't want my rear axle to take a dump when I am in the middle of no where. Quick question, what was that part number you gave to Yogi that is suppose to be the better axle seal?

Thanks Shane.

[gambrinus]

The gear oil leaking from the top of the axle is a mystery to me, but I have heard that TRD axles have a tendency to be weak in the areas of the spring perches. Well, that is exactly where it is leaking from.
OK, that makes sense. I have seen a few housings that crush/crack/etc around the spring perch area. Its not just the TRD housings either. Where is the gear oil around the spring perches? Underneath? Between the perch and the drum? Between the perch and the diff? How bad are your axle seals leaking? I just trying to figure out if your housing is cracked at the perches or if its just your leaky axle seals that are making a mess.

Quick question, what was that part number you gave to Yogi that is suppose to be the better axle seal?
90310-50006. I won't know for a while if they are in fact any better (my seals usually last a year and I put these in 6 months ago) but compared to the old style ones they are definately better.

[CronusTRD]

Why not just replace the seals and gusset the axle?

I've seen Toy axles take a beating on rigs far more built that yours.

[Timbuddha]

It is leaking fron the top of the housing betweent the spring perch and the center chunk of the housing. Since I am off this week, I think I am going to re-do those seals pull the housing apart and see what is up. Its hard to see anything with all of this gear oil crusted to the housing. Thanks for the part number Shane. I will let you know how it goes.

[Timbuddha]

Where do I gusset? The top? I don't have a problem with keeping this axle and I am not simply going to replace it because the axle seals are leaking, but I don't want to have the housing give up the ghost on the trail and if it is leaking gear oil from wierd places, that is cause for concern.

[CronusTRD]

http://www.krawlr.com/TacoTech/axles&suspension/Rear/rear.html

You could also go to rear discs at the same time...

[PappaF2]

Tim as far as width goes I say don't go any wider than the front axle, so stock width would be ok.

Yea I understand about it costing alot to step up to an aftermarket housing and burlier axle compenets. As was mentioned earlier an 8" can survive in pretty built rigs but you have the problem of the week toyota housings and whatnot. As cronostrd said you could gusset it and run it, this should help alot to keep the housing strait. To take it one more step further, if you can find a competant axle builder who has a jig to keep axle housings strait you could cut the stock tubes out at the center section and step up to some 1/4 dom tubes or something similar, then gusset the housing at the same time (while it is on the jig) so it stays strait during the welding. I'm not sure what that would cost but I would think it would be cheaper than the front range housing.

[Captkirkyota]

Tim, just an FYI, if you decide to get a new rear, make sure it is 1 inch less wide than the front. That is the way ALL mfr's make all vehicles for tracking during turning. The FROR would be a GREAT choice, Brian can get 30 spline chromo's better than those you linked to and he can put full floater disc brakes etc for you, and you can use your 3rd. best of all the strength will be REALLY close to a dana 60 with better clearance. Check out : http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html
But as Shane as others have said rebuild yours and gusset and you'll be golden for many moons.

[Ricks72]

Well, after almost five years of wheeling, I do believe that my TRD axle's days are numbered. Its starting to leak gear oil from from the top of the of the axle on both sides and it looks like the rear axle seals are going to need to be changed here pretty soon as well. We just got a pay raise here in my district and I was thinking of upgrading. Here are my choices

1. Front range off-road rear axle (Tacoma Length)- Brian makes some sick axles and I think he is running a special until the end of the month on his bare housings. Which means I could run these as well.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=86&cat=65&page=1

2. Front Range off-road rear axle (Tundra length) Wider is better, but that would mean that I would also have to up grade the front to a wider axle and I have way too much in this waggy front axle.

3. Dana 60- Stout and heavy, but bulletproof. $$$$ Curries Rock Jock rear can be had for $3000 fully loaded, but I don't know if I am ready to make that plunge.

What do you guys think? Should I up grade or should I just try to fix this one up. I won't be running anything bigger than 37s on this rig in case that is a question that comes up. :lmao:


Sell your front to me :D then buy the FROR front axle how you want it ;)

[PappaF2]

Tim, just an FYI, if you decide to get a new rear, make sure it is 1 inch less wide than the front. That is the way ALL mfr's make all vehicles for tracking during turning. The FROR would be a GREAT choice, Brian can get 30 spline chromo's better than those you linked to and he can put full floater disc brakes etc for you, and you can use your 3rd. best of all the strength will be REALLY close to a dana 60 with better clearance. Check out : http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html
But as Shane as others have said rebuild yours and gusset and you'll be golden for many moons.

True in a perfect world you want the rear narrower than the front. My rear axle is about 4" narrower than my front axle and it tracks great with the long wheel base. :D
I have some doubts that brian can get cromos "much better" than the ones that have been linked to. I am sure they are both using 4030 cromo and a similar design, so they are probably close to each other in strengh.

[gambrinus]

The FROR would be a GREAT choice, Brian can get 30 spline chromo's better than those you linked to... ...best of all the strength will be REALLY close to a dana 60 with better clearance. Check out : http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html

Whoa, settle down there beavis ;) We are talking about rear axles here.. There is no special super duper bobby long close to d60 strength stuff involved here... Simply a new housing. The stock toyota rear axle shafts are pretty damn durable so really no need to move to cromo unless you are breaking them. In case you where thinking that the full floater axles were bobbly long's stuff, they aren't. The carrier side is already 30spline as is the hub lockouts so all you need is a stick of decent metal to connect the two. Nothing special about that ;)

later!
shane

[Captkirkyota]

True in a perfect world you want the rear narrower than the front. My rear axle is about 4" narrower than my front axle and it tracks great with the long wheel base. :D
I have some doubts that brian can get cromos "much better" than the ones that have been linked to. I am sure they are both using 4030 cromo and a similar design, so they are probably close to each other in strengh.

Werd, was not aware, as Shane points out in another post, that the rear axles are all 30 spline. I was under the impression the ones that were linked to my Tim, were the necked down to 27 spline type, I was mistaken, my bad. That was what I meant by better, not the chrome quality, but spline count which turns out to be the same. :o

[Captkirkyota]

Whoa, settle down there beavis ;) We are talking about rear axles here.. There is no special super duper bobby long close to d60 strength stuff involved here... Simply a new housing. The stock toyota rear axle shafts are pretty damn durable so really no need to move to cromo unless you are breaking them. In case you where thinking that the full floater axles were bobbly long's stuff, they aren't. The carrier side is already 30spline as is the hub lockouts so all you need is a stick of decent metal to connect the two. Nothing special about that ;)

later!
shane

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21748&postcount=3 ;) :D

[Dirty White Boy]

Where do I gusset? The top? I don't have a problem with keeping this axle and I am not simply going to replace it because the axle seals are leaking, but I don't want to have the housing give up the ghost on the trail and if it is leaking gear oil from wierd places, that is cause for concern.
If you stay stock in width, trade someone your axle for the non turd variety (or from a T-100/Tundra if you want to go wider) and ARB it, or Detroit it for simplicity and less $$$. Non TuRD axles are a bit stronger- bigger bearings, one piece girtled (sp?) bearing cap, slightly larger ring. Plus, they share the same brakes and axles, not to mention you won't have to worry about hitting that damn elocker motor against rocks.
Then, build off of that (disc brakes, gusset/trussing).
Just an idea, take it for what it's worth......

[Timbuddha]

If you stay stock in width, trade someone your axle for the non turd variety (or from a T-100/Tundra if you want to go wider) and ARB it, or Detroit it for simplicity and less $$$. Non TuRD axles are a bit stronger- bigger bearings, one piece girtled (sp?) bearing cap, slightly larger ring. Plus, they share the same brakes and axles, not to mention you won't have to worry about hitting that damn elocker motor against rocks.
Then, build off of that (disc brakes, gusset/trussing).
Just an idea, take it for what it's worth......

You make some good points. I have been eyeing Chris King's rear axle with the lockrite and the 5.29 gears that is non-trd, but I do like the e-locker. Choices, choices.

[redtaco05]

Has anyone thought about corporate 14 bolts, just an opinion, i've got a buddy whose fixing to put one under his trail rig, and their cheap and i have heard nothing but good things about them

[zszac111]

Has anyone thought about corporate 14 bolts, just an opinion, i've got a buddy whose fixing to put one under his trail rig, and their cheap and i have heard nothing but good things about them

good cheap axles to build, just have to run 38"+ tires since they are boat anchors unless they are shaved to hell and back.

[redtaco05]

true, very true, they are pretty massive and heavy

[Front Range]

Tim, just for comparing numbers, a rear housings, built to whatever with, looking at 850 for the housing. Shafts, either our FF, or Poly's cromos would be good. If you are leaking from the perch area, its cracked.

[Timbuddha]

Tim, just for comparing numbers, a rear housings, built to whatever with, looking at 850 for the housing. Shafts, either our FF, or Poly's cromos would be good. If you are leaking from the perch area, its cracked.


Thanks Brian. I appreciate your input. This weekend, I got under there and cleaned up the axle real good and I'm going to keep an eye on it. So far it is looking clean, but if its cracked, you know who I'm going to call. :lmao:

Thanks again

[Guapotaco]

heh, that more than likely is cracks in the housing,seen quite alot of them that way, it can be fixed if it hasn't done too much damage yet, you can beef and truss the whole deal and be ok from what my friends that did it said, i saw some shots and it looked solid,HP9' would be sweet if you could get the $, brians set up would be a bomber option as well,can you run all existing stock axles,brakes etc... with frors set up? or do you have to get the full float and disc brakes from him as well,if i could change all my goods over that maybe my option as well,but i just got rear discs and hope they would change over as well :confused:

[Timbuddha]

heh, that more than likely is cracks in the housing,seen quite alot of them that way, it can be fixed if it hasn't done too much damage yet, you can beef and truss the whole deal and be ok from what my friends that did it said, i saw some shots and it looked solid,HP9' would be sweet if you could get the $, brians set up would be a bomber option as well,can you run all existing stock axles,brakes etc... with frors set up? or do you have to get the full float and disc brakes from him as well,if i could change all my goods over that maybe my option as well,but i just got rear discs and hope they would change over as well :confused:

You could re-use stock axles brakes and all with Brian's axle. You could also upgrade to some sweet axles from Bobby Long, Superior or Poly Performance while you have everything apart. :eek:

[Blacksheep]

part #90310-50006

[Valkyrie]

You make some good points. I have been eyeing Chris King's rear axle with the lockrite and the 5.29 gears that is non-trd, but I do like the e-locker. Choices, choices.
LOL! I thought someone was watching me! Actually, I went with a D44 for the front, so I will be keeping the rear. Uncle Sam is taking about half of my SAS fund, so I am on plan "B".

[Timbuddha]

I hear you. My SAS almost didn't happen last year due to Uncle Sam's friendly nature with my wallet.

[zszac111]

Uncle Sam is taking about half of my SAS fund, so I am on plan "B".

no shit, with me being self employeed i hate this time of year, its using all of my dual 60/coilover fund and im not to happy about it.

[WhyHikeAU]

Im interested in your axles If you get some 60s (thats if your gunna sell em) ;)

[zszac111]

Im interested in your axles If you get some 60s (thats if your gunna sell em) ;)


yeah ill sell them, unless i can use them in a trade, just got to have 60's ready to go under it with coilovers, so depending on how buisness goes for the first couple months this year will determine which direction im going to go in.

[Timbuddha]

So tonight, I head out to my truck to make mental notes of some things that need to be fixed after my trip to High Desert Round Up and I discover this. Now, I am no axle expert, but this gear oil spot can't be a good thing. I wiped it off and I can't see a crack in the tube, but I have a bad feeling about this. I have two weeks to the biggest run of the year for our club, so I need some help with options.

#1. Patch the crack with a piece of steel welded over the crack or whatever it is.
#2. Order a new bling housing from Brian at Front Range and hope it gets here on time.
#3. Ditch my TRD axle completely and go with 60 or 9 inch.

My problem is that I am going into the summer for us teacher types summer means budgeting and frugalness, something a bling $3500 rock jock 60 won't help with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Tacomatim16/rearaxleoops.jpg

[DrVic@BallisticFab]

just weld the bitch

[ATLRoach]

Weld it or go diamond axle housing..

[PappaF2]

tim,
I say grind the crack open a bit and then weld it. You can add a plate to it if you like, but I say mend it up so it can atleast survive to the fall when you will be teaching again and then you can get something bling! :D

[awsumdc]

<<<$$$$ Curries Rock Jock rear can be had for $3000 fully loaded, but I don't know if I am ready to make that plunge.>>>

Tim, you know what my answer is.

Currie called the shop yesterday. Going to pick it up today. I'll shoot you some pictures.

Wyatt

[awsumdc]

Tim, just an FYI, if you decide to get a new rear, make sure it is 1 inch less wide than the front. That is the way ALL mfr's make all vehicles for tracking during turning. The FROR would be a GREAT choice, Brian can get 30 spline chromo's better than those you linked to and he can put full floater disc brakes etc for you, and you can use your 3rd. best of all the strength will be REALLY close to a dana 60 with better clearance. Check out : http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/graph.html
But as Shane as others have said rebuild yours and gusset and you'll be golden for many moons.
I know this is an old post and no disrespect, however it is not always true that the front track is wider than the rear track. Case in point is the '05 Tacoma. The track on all '05 4x4 and prerunners front is 63" the rears are 63.4". On all the rest of the 05 Taco's they are both the same. Not really sure why but it is.

Wyatt

[Timbuddha]

tim,
I say grind the crack open a bit and then weld it. You can add a plate to it if you like, but I say mend it up so it can atleast survive to the fall when you will be teaching again and then you can get something bling! :D

Thanks Todd. I would be down for a new a new axle, but I just ordered a cage from EOR and it's going to be super bling. I have seen 3 really hard rolls in the last month and I need to get something in there to make my wife and I safe while we are on the trails.

[Dick Foster]

Damn Wyatt you been around Jason too much. He did say he was making the rear 1" less wider than the front. Yeah, it's a fucked up way to say it but it's the same thing. LOL

[Dick Foster]

Tell Jason about that cage will ya. I've been trying to convince him to do up a good kit for us.

[JESSE_at_TLT]

Timbuddha-
I'd really consider selling off your TRD third member and wiring harness and building a non-TRD Tacoma/Tundra/T100 rear axle. Use a FROR housing in whatever length you want and stuff an ARB in it. If the budget is tight, Poly Performance's semi-floating shafts are a pretty good value. I don't think you really need a high-pinion D60, when something smaller and lighter will get the job done. Check out the rear axle (http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/viewarticle.php?id=62) we're building for our little red Tacoma.

[awsumdc]

OK Tim. Here you go. Now wipe the drool from your chin. :eek:

http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=CaliforniaOffRd&msg=4295.1

Wyatt

[Timbuddha]

Wyatt, I love you man!!! Where is the rear?

Tim

[Timbuddha]

Timbuddha-
I'd really consider selling off your TRD third member and wiring harness and building a non-TRD Tacoma/Tundra/T100 rear axle. Use a FROR housing in whatever length you want and stuff an ARB in it. If the budget is tight, Poly Performance's semi-floating shafts are a pretty good value. I don't think you really need a high-pinion D60, when something smaller and lighter will get the job done. Check out the rear axle (http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/viewarticle.php?id=62) we're building for our little red Tacoma.


Is the strength difference really that much between the TRD 3rd member and the 8.4 axle?

[awsumdc]

Wyatt, I love you man!!! Where is the rear?

Tim
The rear is about three weeks away, but we'll have enough to do with the front for awhile. :saw:

[ATLRoach]

Is the strength difference really that much between the TRD 3rd member and the 8.4 axle?

The gears are slightly bigger than that of the TRD. TRD(200mm/7.8") vs. Non-TRD(210mm/8.25").

[JESSE_at_TLT]

The additional rigidity is much more important than any small difference in ring gear diameter (it's negligable). The non-TRD third member is supposed to do a much better job of controlling pinion deflection, which breaks teeth off of the ring/pinion. So, it's not a huge difference, but it's enough to make me choose to build one over the other.

[Timbuddha]

You know my number!!

[Timbuddha]

The additional rigidity is much more important than any small difference in ring gear diameter (it's negligable). The non-TRD third member is supposed to do a much better job of controlling pinion deflection, which breaks teeth off of the ring/pinion. So, it's not a huge difference, but it's enough to make me choose to build one over the other.

Gotcha. I would go with one of Brian's housings, but I really like my TRD locker, never really had any problems with it, but then again, I don't hammer down. I would like a full float rear as I want to be able to tow the Taco with our motorhome. No place for a trailer at this point, so the full floater is a great option. Probelm is I need all of this stuff soon and I am sure Brian is backed up with work since it is wheeling season. Oh, and I just wasn't ready to spend the coin on an axle right now.

[Timbuddha]

Jess-

Here is what I am thinking so that I can save a little coin. Run my TRD 3rd with the 4.88 gears I already have stuffed in there with one of Brian's housings and his full floater which will allow me to flat tow as well. I really only have $2000 to spend and even at that, I am pushing it. I wish I could just find another TRD housing, truss it for strength and be done with it. I really don't want to spend freaking 2k on a axle right now. I have a cage on the way and I was hoping to buy an atlas or a marlin crawler. :(

[awsumdc]

Jess-

Here is what I am thinking so that I can save a little coin. Run my TRD 3rd with the 4.88 gears I already have stuffed in there with one of Brian's housings and his full floater which will allow me to flat tow as well. I really only have $2000 to spend and even at that, I am pushing it. I wish I could just find another TRD housing, truss it for strength and be done with it. I really don't want to spend freaking 2k on a axle right now. I have a cage on the way and I was hoping to buy an atlas or a marlin crawler. :(
That sounds like a good plan. Too bad about having to spend your $'s on something that you need instead of what you want. Kinda sucks. But hey, you'll have a pretty good axle if you go that way though.

Wyatt

[awsumdc]

Hey Tim. You had some pictures of your front spring install. Where was that at? I need to look at something please.

Wyatt

[Timbuddha]

Yep, at HDR this weekend, I could just tell that I really needed some lowere gears. The auto does fine with 4.88s, but a crawler would make things just a bit easier.

[Timbuddha]

What exactly do you need to see? Maybe I can help you out.

Tim

[CHINOTACO]

Hey Tim how are those springs doing? I just wanted to know cause I was thinking about getting a set to put on truck.

chino

[gambrinus]

I wish I could just find another TRD housing, truss it for strength and be done with it.

hey tim... Would you be interested in a complete TRD axle assembly - drum to drum? I know someone that is going to be selling one soon (here in AZ). Use the housing off it, sell the elocked third (4.10s), and sell both axle shafts (or keep one or both for a spare). In the end you probably wouldn't be out too much $$.

shane

[Timbuddha]

Hey Tim how are those springs doing? I just wanted to know cause I was thinking about getting a set to put on truck.

chino

I love them! It took them 2 or 3 wheeling trips to break in, but now they are freaking sweet.

[Timbuddha]

hey tim... Would you be interested in a complete TRD axle assembly - drum to drum? I know someone that is going to be selling one soon (here in AZ). Use the housing off it, sell the elocked third (4.10s), and sell both axle shafts (or keep one or both for a spare). In the end you probably wouldn't be out too much $$.

shane


Shane, if the price is right and it hasn't been wheeled much I might be interested, but I am concerned about this happening again. PM with the details.

Tim

[CHINOTACO]

Ya since I am doing another swap I thought that I would try them. Did you have to change anything like the hanger locations or did they just bolt right in where the 44044's? If they did mind giving me the specs or is it a secret. I like the idea of not going with the Rancho's. Any help would be great.

Chino

[Timbuddha]

The specs are on marlin's website, and I run them short side forward with no problems. I believe the specs are the same as the 44044s.

[CHINOTACO]

Cool then I think that I will go ahead and get these then. Anything else that you can think of about them to let me in on. If not I am going to buy them in the morning. Thanks again Tim.

chino

[Timbuddha]

Cool then I think that I will go ahead and get these then. Anything else that you can think of about them to let me in on. If not I am going to buy them in the morning. Thanks again Tim.

chino


Nope, nothing else. They are great springs in my opinion.

[awsumdc]

Well, after almost five years of wheeling, I do believe that my TRD axle's days are numbered. Its starting to leak gear oil from from the top of the of the axle on both sides and it looks like the rear axle seals are going to need to be changed here pretty soon as well. We just got a pay raise here in my district and I was thinking of upgrading. Here are my choices

1. Front range off-road rear axle (Tacoma Length)- Brian makes some sick axles and I think he is running a special until the end of the month on his bare housings. Which means I could run these as well.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=86&cat=65&page=1

2. Front Range off-road rear axle (Tundra length) Wider is better, but that would mean that I would also have to up grade the front to a wider axle and I have way too much in this waggy front axle.

3. Dana 60- Stout and heavy, but bulletproof. $$$$ Curries Rock Jock rear can be had for $3000 fully loaded, but I don't know if I am ready to make that plunge.

What do you guys think? Should I up grade or should I just try to fix this one up. I won't be running anything bigger than 37s on this rig in case that is a question that comes up. :lmao:
Upgrade dude, upgrade. But then again you knew I was going to say that. :) Any way, I would use Currie's heavyduty rear Dana 60 with the Ford 9" outers. It's stronger than the Rock Jock and it's the same price along with being shaved and reverse cut. Then again, thats what I'm running and it should be pretty much bullet proof under your Taco. Good luck Tim. Let me know if I can be of any help.

[awsumdc]

OOPs, Old post. Didn't relize I already answered this one. My bad.... :rolleyes:

[Timbuddha]

No worries buddy. Right now, I am leaning towards the Front Range rear housing along with a full floater so that I can flat tow it behind the motorhome. I can keep my third, upgrade to 5.29 gears and step up to some 37 inch IROKS next year when my Masters is finished.

[awsumdc]

No worries buddy. Right now, I am leaning towards the Front Range rear housing along with a full floater so that I can flat tow it behind the motorhome. I can keep my third, upgrade to 5.29 gears and step up to some 37 inch IROKS next year when my Masters is finished.
That sounds like a good choice. I understand they make a very good product.

[Timbuddha]

Now, all I need is the money to do it.