IMO - the question is NOT how much you should offer the guy to buy this one... The question is how much do you have to spend on a Cruiser build?
That Cruiser is going to need A LOT of work! If you have - say - $5000 to spend, you probably can (and should) find a cruiser that's in far better shape than that one. If your heart is set on that particular one (for some strange reason) and you have tons of money to spend on the restoration & build - I would start by offering the guy $500 - $750 bucks or something. There's NO WAY I would pay more than $1000 for a severely neglected, rusted-ass cruiser that doesn't even run, and you have no idea why. Owner "says" he thinks it's bad gas - what that really means is that he has no fucking clue why it won't run, and he probably ragged the shit out of it when it DID run...
I probably wouldn't buy that one at all unless I was filthy rich, and had an unlimited budget, and that was the only FJ40 I could find on Earth. :2cents:
Just for reference - I bought THIS Land Cruiser for $3000. It runs great, has a rebuilt transmission, no rust, and the interior is immaculate...
On the other hand - you could buy that one cheap, and probably turn a good profit by parting it out, and spend THAT money on your Tacoma...
...it looks like it has some good OEM parts (especially the seats and interior) that people would probably want...
It would nearly be a sin to part it out. Depending on what he’ll take for it, buy it and sink a ton of cash into it to make it trail ready . . . then you don’t even need to paint it! Rough like that, it would be a cool rig.
Looks good to me. They don't build'm anymore - well, unless you count the Icon. When you get something that old you HAVE to expect anything so you won't ever be "surprised". Blown motor, dead tranny, rusty fuel tank or whatever.
It's "all there" which is huge when you start looking at old 40's. I'd start with some really low offer if you can't get the owner to tell you what he'd take for it first.
Jamie is right, you can spend a wad on these things, it's just a matter of what your budget, time and skills will allow.
Here's my kids '69 FJ40 that he traded a 4wheeler for. He got the LC (no top) and a dirt bike. Neither ran, but with a carb rebuild and fresh gas it, actually both ran like a champ. The LC didn't stop too good so we're doing a mini-truck brake conversion. He sold the bike and is still in it cheap (of course I've donated parts and labor for free ) It used to be white too!!
thats the thing sar, the body isnt as bad as it looks. all of those paint cracks have good steel under em. notice the chunk missing from the door, all solid under there. same w the fenders. now im not saying its perfect but for a trail rig/occasional dd i think it would be ok.
question. did these suckers come w a roll bar or was it an option. this one hasnt got one.
talked to my buddy who has basically lived down the street from dude all of his life (bought his dads house) and he remembers seeing it when he was a kid. the guy used it to go fishing/hunting and to drive to camp. they are in a small town, pop 500, so maybe the 67xxx klicks are original after all.....................
gonna call the guy after supper, hope he doesnt think its a valuable antique. i think my offer will top out at 2g's if i can hear it run.
Pointing out all the things wrong with it will reduce what you pay for it
That things been painted, and judging from under the hood, it used to be beige.... look for why it was painted... those paint 'cracks' on the fenders look awful deep for just a couple of coats of paint. Check the sill under the rear doors, rust-through is almost inevitable there-as well as the bottom of the rear and front doors, but you should know it's condition first! It could be a steal if it runs & drives well, but to find out first, means the owner will know as well, and that'll raise the price. It's all subjective, and that thing seems very complete...a good base to start from. Enjoy the art of the deal, and good luck!
There are guys selling fully restored (near mint) diesel BJ40's in Canada for $10,000 or less. So I am not sure what you would want to offer this guy. Just know buying an FJ40 is buying a bonafied money pit. It just depends on how much you are willing to spend to fix it up and how far you want to go.
To give you some idea though, you can buy an entire working 2F engine, tranny, transfer case, axles, etc... for about $500-$600 here locally. There are quite a few people doing engine swaps and axle swaps that sell off the original OEM equipment fairly cheap if you do decide to get it and go through a restore.
One of our local members just sold his '78 FJ40 for $10,500. It was nize though. I've noticed that the later FJ's, especially the '80 models and up are very high priced and seem to be more desirable for the "original restorations". Lots of FJ info over on IH8MUD too.
...betcha' it was originally "Alpine White" too.... anyway, best wishes with your decision.
We just saw (Monday) a 1974, FJ40, bone stock, all original, for sale at the gas station in Silverton Co. He was asking $9000. This thing looked like it was about 3 years old. No rust and the paint still had a bit of shine to it. All that and only 15K miles! A rare site indeed. Still a money pit though, any way you slice it.
If its been sitting, you never know what you might find wrong with it?
IMO Jamie has the right perspective. How much money do you have to invest in restoring it? Unexpected things like cracked blocks from lack of antifreeze, clogged radiators, rusted out floor boards (FJs get a lot of rust on their tubs), electrical gremlins from corrossion, etc etc etc etc etc.
I am living the dream right now, thousands invested so far and its finally street reliable. Still need to build an axle and upgrade the transfercase.
It depends. If he parted it out he could probably get $3000 or more. The hard top and glass alone is worth $750. Another $350 for the intact rear doors. Add another $350/each for the front doors if they are intact with working windows. Add another $100/each for the rear jump seats and then more for the front seats. It all adds up quick and you haven't even started on the drive line or engine compartment. Hell, the front bezel/grill alone goes for $50 or more. That thing has a mostly intact interior too.
Outside looks like crap, but the inside is pretty decent from the photos. If the tub is intact and the rust is just surface only, it may be a decent rig. Do a full frame off, particle (bead blast) the entire tub and rebuild it and you would be surprised at what that thing may look like.
Still, that rusty engine compartment will eat your wallet alive. You are looking at a minimum of a new radiator. I hate to see what is under that oil pan and no telling what shape the engine is in. If you strip the entire engine compartment out and do a full engine swap it may be easier than doing a restore.
The most important thing is really the shape of the tub and any serious rust problems. If it hasn't rusted through the top rain gutter, rusted through the bottom of the rear doors or inside the bottom of the driver and passenger door sills it may be all right. Replacing the tub alone is a $3000 cost just for the parts. So it's got to be rust free and not rusted through.
there was a '73 diesel for sale about 3 hours north of here that did run and drive with minimal rust but really bad paint for $2500. we were about to go pick it up but then it sold.
if you really want one then just keep looking around. they do come up every so often.
and if you do get that one for the $1800 don't even bother trying to fix that motor. do a 350 or a 302. you can pick up a motor/tranny/t-case for $500 and parts for those motors are dirt cheap. you will also have a v8
300hp and cheap or 110hp and expensive... tough decision.
i guess dude didnt like my offer cause he didnt call me back. makes the decision easy.
going to check out a 93 80 on friday. 260xxxkm, leather, center diff lock, ox locked rear, 4.5 japanese big block, new shocks/brakes, top end of motor done by dealer last year. needs a bit of body work in a couple of spots but it doesnt look too bad. depending on what kind of shape its in and what dude ultimately wants price wise it would make a sweet dd/winter dd.
i could also get back to thinking about throwin my hp d44/9" combo in the taco. i have 3 axles staring at me every time i open the garage (often).
IMO you will have a ton of fun with a shorter wheelbased Toyota. In the tight stuff, a 120+" WB can't hardly compete with 100" wheelbased vehicles in regards to turning radius.
I also think the owner of that FJ probably has some sentimental attachment to his or her FJ and unwilling to part with it for what its actually worth. The owner saved you a lot of time and money.
I would bet, on the lower end, you would have invested between 7-10K for a decent restoration of that FJ while putting it on 33-35" tires, doing a lot of the work yourself.
Good luck with the search, you will find the right one!
93 FZJ80 LC. New shocks, brakes, birfs, top end of motor redone last year, 231xxxkm, 4.5 inline 6, seats 7 adults or 19 midgets, full float rear axle, discs all round............rust..........old leather... no elockers but its got an aussie in the rear and a center diff lock since its awd.
we loaded up the bus last night before our super extreme hack session. the rearmost seat is being shared by pete #1 who is 6'4" and pete #2 who is........ shorter.
busses are cool. not as cool as tacos but close.
D
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