View Full Version : Flat Top Knuckles
TACORICAN
07-18-2005, 11:51 PM
I would like to know is these would work for SAS. This is all I need to start building my Axle.
Dana 44 Flat Tops
unmilled set off of a mid 70's Jeep Wagoneer. The casting numbers are as follows:
Right = C36519
Left= C36520
The ball joints are present
I would like to know is these would work for SAS. This is all I need to start building my Axle.
Dana 44 Flat Tops
unmilled set off of a mid 70's Jeep Wagoneer. The casting numbers are as follows:
Right = C36519
Left= C36520
The ball joints are present
I dunno about those, hopefully someone around here will. If I were you I would just call Parts Mike and be done with it.
Later,
....Mike
TACORICAN
07-18-2005, 11:55 PM
Well I would go with those, but I was trying to find a cheaper route. Anthony is using some flat tops from a Chevy. This guy is selling them for 90 bucks, the waggy flat tops....
Brain
07-19-2005, 12:07 AM
If they are both truely flat top knuckles, you can probably use them. As long as they are from a D44 with 6 bolt holes for the spindle/brake stuff and flat on top, buy 'em! I sent my driver side knuckle to Parts Mike to have drilled and tapped for hi-steer arms. He also milled the top of the knuckle completely flat so there was a nice even surface for the arm to mount to.
TACORICAN
07-19-2005, 12:09 AM
To make it easier. What year Chebby works? There are a bunch on Pirate4x4 for around 100 bucks but all from different trucks and years.
TACORICAN
07-19-2005, 12:19 AM
Actually never mind. am going with parts mike. I figured almost 550 after getting knuckles and all the trouble to find them, then have them machines and tapped, Hi steer arms and new ball joints....
DrVic@BallisticFab
07-19-2005, 12:45 AM
I used early jeep 44 knuckles, both are flat but neither are milled flat or drilled for studs.
Brain
07-19-2005, 01:29 AM
I used early jeep 44 knuckles, both are flat but neither are milled flat or drilled for studs.
Are you running standard crossover steering? You need to have the passenger one drilled and tapped but the driver side doesn't need to be. Got any pics of your steering setup?
zszac111
07-19-2005, 07:05 AM
Are you running standard crossover steering? You need to have the passenger one drilled and tapped but the driver side doesn't need to be. Got any pics of your steering setup?
he is running full hydro with dual rams, dont know if the rams are going to high steer arms or the "low steer" mounts though :D
DrVic@BallisticFab
07-24-2005, 11:12 AM
http://www.members.cox.net/drvic853r/forsale24.JPG
I had to mill drill and tap both sides, if you are paying for the machining it will be far cheaper to get chevys.
TACORICAN
07-25-2005, 11:32 PM
They finally sent me pics of the knuckles. Let me know if these work for 100 bucks or 185.00 with new ball joints already pressed in.
zszac111
07-26-2005, 07:05 AM
They finally sent me pics of the knuckles. Let me know if these work for 100 bucks or 185.00 with new ball joints already pressed in.
yeah those are the ones, you want the ones with 6 studs, the one in the second picture thats on the ground is a ford 5 stud knuckle. they look to be milled flat from the sharpness of the edge bug might want him to lay a straight edge across the top part (where the high steer arms would mount) to make sure
TACORICAN
07-26-2005, 09:11 AM
Even if these aren't milled I could still have them done to work?
TACORICAN
07-26-2005, 09:21 AM
Also, is 185 a good price with ball joints?
zszac111
07-26-2005, 10:01 AM
Also, is 185 a good price with ball joints?
185 for the pair is a good price for just the knuckles. depending on what brand of ball joints they are going to put in there, you may want to buy and put yours in your self, only takes about 2 mins for each knuckle. and yes you could have them milled flat if they are not already.
zszac111
07-26-2005, 10:05 AM
i think i payed 100 bucks for one of my knuckles from my parts guy so i guess if its for one it would be the going rate?? unless you can find them in the junk yard, then pay to have them milled flat which would be another 60 or so bucks each, i drilled and tapped mine out to a little bit larger diameter on my new ones since for some reason i like to shear the studs/bolts off.
DrVic@BallisticFab
07-26-2005, 10:06 AM
that's a good price if you don't have a press. If you are planning on using a c-clamp style ball joint press then pay them the extra money to put them in for you. That means youre paying about 140 for the knuckles and labor. Just make sure that whoever is going to machine them can still do it with the ball joints pressed in or you will be doing it anyway.
TACORICAN
07-26-2005, 11:28 AM
The Ball joints are already pressed in.
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.