Snoop Rebuild 1.0

[Jordan7118]

Just a little update for ya.

I took Snoop to the TTORA Takeover and had a blast. I now have a couple problems...

Snoop has a nice n' nasty gangster lean to the passenger side. I think I bent a spring on my last trip. I had to throttle on one spot too much and think that might be the cause.

So now I'd like to do some rebuilding. Here's what I'm thinking:



Body / Armor

- Bob ~ 12" off the back and put on a pickup tailgate and end. I don't use the window anyways, and I'd like to trim the bottom up.

- Rock rails / sliders - 2"x6" square tube to replace rocker panels. I might take them up further, but I'm not sure the extra work is worth the couple extra inches clearance. People run sliders with great results. I would like to put a small "boatside" effect to it. The 2x6 will give me a good platform to mount and exo when the time comes... and it needs to come soon :smack:

- Tranny tunnel - If I do the rock rails, I could make a sub-frame to mount my seats and free up some more space for a tranny tunnel. I really need to put sheetmetal over that stuff, as it gets really hot over time. So hot I can just about not take it.

- Full belly skid - need to protect my cases now :smack: I have the metal, just need to do it. Should I run UHMW and a lighter backing plate??? I hear that stuff is the shiznit!




Suspension


- Front - springs need to be pulled and examined. New bushings, probably. Take out anti-wrap spring and put in one with less arch.

- Rear - pull these springs apart as well. new bushings probably needed. Will run Toyota bushings, as they seem to be a straight swap with F150s. Would like to do a pivot-block on the perch. French in front spring hangers, and sink rear spring hangers into frame or put on top of rail. ANTI-WRAP BAR is much needed. Will figure that out after I redo the springs.




Gas tank

- F150 gas tank might have to go. It's too big for a trail-only vehicle. I think I only use about 5 gallons a day wheeling, so this baby is just too much for me. Might build a cell like Mossyrocks did, or I might buy a small 10 gallon cell and put it where the current tank is. Just too much...



Winch

- have had some trouble with my synthetic. Not sure if I'm going to pull it off and run cable (got brand new steel cable for free...) or take off SKY's UHMW hawse fairlead (it's crap...) and replace with aluminum. Just don't know...




Post up your thoughts!

[gittinit]

Is there an expected time of completion? Im just ondering when I can start calling ya a web wheeler, slacker again. I think you should move the exo further up on your list.

[wanabecruisen]

Got much time off in your near future? That's a long list of to-do's little buddy. Gonna try to chop that into smaller pcs so you can still wheel that thing?

[Jordan7118]

Is there an expected time of completion? Im just ondering when I can start calling ya a web wheeler, slacker again. I think you should move the exo further up on your list.

I hope to be done by winter break.

I'm trying to get a lot of stuff done right now. School, thesis wrap-up, working on getting an internship, looking for a study abroad program, getting things settled (still) at this house, a girlfriend, and Snoop all competing for my time. Obviously, Snoop is at the bottom of those in priority. Gotta get 'dat education!

Start calling me a web-wheeler again once it's on jackstands and I post pics of that :D

Got much time off in your near future? That's a long list of to-do's little buddy. Gonna try to chop that into smaller pcs so you can still wheel that thing?

I'm kinda burnt on wheeling right now. I'd rather work on my junk for a little while. I've been playing Russian roulette with this rig not having a skid plate - almost fubar'd my trans and cases at TO this year with a giant rock :rolleyes:

It may look like a long list, but I think it'll be doable once I get it on jackstands. Then the springs will come off quick, followed by rear axle shave, diff protection front and rear. I'm pretty optimistic, but I think I can get quite a chunk of that done if I just apply myself. I'm known to web-wheel instead of work :rolleyes:

[YotaJosh]

Here's my thoughts...

Bob -> sure. Sliders -> yes. Tranny tunnel -> YES, please. Skid plate -> you need to drive better, or get a better spotter. :D

Springs -> Do what ever you think works. New bushings are always good, providing you didn't put new ones in there when you first build the rig. Trac bar -> yes.

Gas tank -> you don't have to fill it up to the top everytime it's empty, ya know. :D I think that's one of the better mods. You might appreciate it if you ever decide to take it to Moab, or on an extended weekend somewhere.

Winch -> sorry I pointed you at that fairlead. :o Glad you tried it before I bought one. If you run steel line, keep the syn line, and make extension lines out of it.

Dibs on tire/wheel rental for a few years while it sits. :neener:

[Jordan7118]

Here's my thoughts...

Bob -> sure. Sliders -> yes. Tranny tunnel -> YES, please. Skid plate -> you need to drive better, or get a better spotter. :D

If I patch the tranny tunnel, then I for sure need that belly plate. That open tunnel has saved me many times from drag the rear over Mt. Everest :rolleyes: I've only almost turtled only once. That would've sucked...

Plus, I plan to lower Snoop a couple inches. The belly will be nice.


Springs -> Do what ever you think works. New bushings are always good, providing you didn't put new ones in there when you first build the rig. Trac bar -> yes. Nope, used the same Ford bushings and Toyota stuff as well.

Track bar is a must, I think. Gonna do a slip and twist with shackle on one end, I think

Gas tank -> you don't have to fill it up to the top everytime it's empty, ya know. :D I think that's one of the better mods. You might appreciate it if you ever decide to take it to Moab, or on an extended weekend somewhere.

I need that space more than I need gas. Once I bob, it's not going to fit very well. Plus, it would allow me to make room for possible future mods. I just don't need it nor do I want it anymore. I can't do Moab, cuz Snoop doesn't street AT ALL :(


Winch -> sorry I pointed you at that fairlead. :o Glad you tried it before I bought one. If you run steel line, keep the syn line, and make extension lines out of it.

Yea, it's okay. Just turned out it was crap. Aluminum is the way to go.

Not gonna cut up perfectly good synthetic. Still have about 100', so I'm good to go. Gonna try to make synthetic work first before I backpedal to steel cable.

Dibs on tire/wheel rental for a few years while it sits. :neener:

Doubt it'll take that long. Priority is springs, bob, fender trim in rear, rocker panel. After that, I can wheel and mod at the same time. No biggie.

Plus now I have a plasma so I'll be even faster :cool:

That was a badass deal, BTW. I'm uber-pumped!

[YotaJosh]

Plus now I have a plasma so I'll be even faster :cool:

That was a badass deal, BTW. I'm uber-pumped!

Yes, yes it was. I wish I had the cash for that, but oh well. Then I'd need 220 outlet, and good, clean air to run it. Extra $$$ written all over that.

You should hook a fellow member here up with your second one. I know what you paid for it!!

[Jordan7118]

Yes, yes it was. I wish I had the cash for that, but oh well. Then I'd need 220 outlet, and good, clean air to run it. Extra $$$ written all over that.

You should hook a fellow member here up with your second one. I know what you paid for it!!

220 is so darn easy to wire it's ridiculous. I wired up 220 in my garage last night in five minutes. Need a new breaker and that's pretty much it. I ran the 220 wire out the bottom of the front of the box. Ghetto, but she works :D And, yea, now I need that $$$ to get a compressor and good clean air... Dang't....

[gittinit]

Your either gonna want the slip/twist, or the shackle not both. but definately do the track bar with them springs backwards like that. Why is the ford tank not gonna fit after the bob? Does it stick past the frame rails now? If you bob past the frame your trying to hard. Youll never rub anything as short as the factory frame length anyhow. I want in line for the tire rental as well, you aint gonna need them till takover 2012 anyhow. :D

Nice score on the plasma! Now you can cut it apart easier. :welder: :saw:

[Jordan7118]

Your either gonna want the slip/twist, or the shackle not both. but definately do the track bar with them springs backwards like that. Why is the ford tank not gonna fit after the bob? Does it stick past the frame rails now? If you bob past the frame your trying to hard. Youll never rub anything as short as the factory frame length anyhow. I want in line for the tire rental as well, you aint gonna need them till takover 2012 anyhow. :D

Nice score on the plasma! Now you can cut it apart easier. :welder: :saw:

I haven't done my research on track bars yet :o I'll holler and pick your brain when it comes time.

I like the look of it bobbed real nasty to the end. I have a tendency to back into / sandwich myself. If I'm gonna do it, I'm just gonna do it to the max. I tend to overdo things if you haven't noticed. Turbo tranny...23 spline... 4.7s... selectable lockers... All those things have been a little overkill. Even the flat belly is a little over the top for me. BUT I'm learning, and that's what my first ride is all about. I have to learn for myself. I'm just stubborn like that. :rolleyes:

Everybody likes to make jokes about my slow pace, but now Snoop is all of 5 seconds from my bed, as opposed to 3.5 hours from my driveway ONE WAY :mad:

Bear with me, fellas. I hope to learn and teach. As always, I appreciate the comments, criticism, encouragement, and general harassment :D

Here's a couple pics of some bobs I really dig

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Miscellaneous/4runnerbob.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Miscellaneous/backangleprimer.jpg

[fulleroffroad1]

The bob on that silver rig is clean! good luck with it man.

[John Doe]

BUT I'm learning, and that's what my first ride is all about. I have to learn for myself. I'm just stubborn like that. :rolleyes:


I am the same way!

Both those bobs look great!

[Jordan7118]

I hope mine comes out half as clean as those. My sheetmetal is already boogered where it needs to come back together :rolleyes: Dang't...

[slacker24/7]

A flat belly skid is a good thing be sure and brace it well as a simple sheet of 1/4 between the frame rails isnt enough strength to support the vehicle. But a good full width skid lets ya slide over things without edges hanging on rocks.. ..I would forget the UHMW its slick but also probably doesnt provide that big of a diffrence plus a good shot or two it may be coming off...plus it has no strength its just to provide a slick skid plate.. for sure do a tunnel cover, you dont need to watch under ya,just know the trail and whats under ya.. if you do need to watch it mount ya a camera like used for backing up in a RV.. 2x6 sliders are good idea, but angle them down (hard to describe) kinda like mine, give good clearence plus if ya do exo a good foundation for that. what springs in the rear? why do you need a anti wrap bar so bad? is it a spring issue? thought about RUF on front springs? remember stability is a good thing, probably more so than monster flex.. so a stiffer spring may be in order and would help with your wrap issue.. heck stay with the syn. rope, just get a good fairlead and mount it where rocks cant get to it... other wise go cable and a roller. if your tank works, why change it? just dont put as much fuel in it. it looked pretty up and out of the way last I saw it...

[Jordan7118]

A flat belly skid is a good thing be sure and brace it well as a simple sheet of 1/4 between the frame rails isnt enough strength to support the vehicle. But a good full width skid lets ya slide over things without edges hanging on rocks.. ..I would forget the UHMW its slick but also probably doesnt provide that big of a diffrence plus a good shot or two it may be coming off...plus it has no strength its just to provide a slick skid plate.. for sure do a tunnel cover, you dont need to watch under ya,just know the trail and whats under ya.. if you do need to watch it mount ya a camera like used for backing up in a RV.. 2x6 sliders are good idea, but angle them down (hard to describe) kinda like mine, give good clearence plus if ya do exo a good foundation for that. what springs in the rear? why do you need a anti wrap bar so bad? is it a spring issue? thought about RUF on front springs? remember stability is a good thing, probably more so than monster flex.. so a stiffer spring may be in order and would help with your wrap issue.. heck stay with the syn. rope, just get a good fairlead and mount it where rocks cant get to it... other wise go cable and a roller. if your tank works, why change it? just dont put as much fuel in it. it looked pretty up and out of the way last I saw it...

You're right about the UHMW. It's not very structurally sound, and it's quite expensive. I would use an 1/8" backing plate or something a little thicker to give it some strength. I think I'll just use steel plate.

I know what you mean about angling the square tube for sliders. I saw how well yours worked, and it gave you a good spot for exo.

My springs aren't terribly soft, but they're especially prone to wrap due to them being mounted backwards. I'd like to continue to use them, but I want to have a little more control over their wrapping function. I'm excited to see how the rear suspension ends up.

I have an aluminum fairlead now, so I think I'll run synthetic and just be more careful :(

My tank is nice in that it tucks way up in the rear, but size wise it is a little big (wide and length) for the bob and my wheeling. If it were a matter of not filling it up so much, that'd be one thing, but that won't shrink the tank physically. I'm thinking about a 2wd truck tank mounted sideways in the rear. I'm told it's smaller than a 4wd truck, and much smaller than the saddlebag 4Runner tank I replaced. Dunno... That one's still up in the air.

If I can make the F150 tank work, I might just do that and worry about it later.

Thanks for the post, Dave!

[slacker24/7]

if your doing all the spring mods ie: frenching them and such, why have them backwards? if its the wheelbase thing, relocate them to where you want your wheelbase and have them as the factory intended.. dunno, maybe something way over my head..but just a thought...

[Jordan7118]

I reversed them for the departure angle increase. They are 32" to the eye one way and 25" to the eye the other way. If I keep them reversed and french into the frame, I think I can use that point for links later down the road if I do that. it would be parallel links to the frame for the lowers and triangulated uppers. That's down the road, so who knows :rolleyes:

[ArkieTaco]

Put these on the list. Once you are able to drive it on the road.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10376288#post10376288

[YotaJosh]

Put these on the list. Once you are able to drive it on the road.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10376288#post10376288

A. W. E. S. O. M. E.

That is way cool. :headbang:

[gittinit]

I reversed them for the departure angle increase. They are 32" to the eye one way and 25" to the eye the other way. If I keep them reversed and french into the frame, I think I can use that point for links later down the road if I do that. it would be parallel links to the frame for the lowers and triangulated uppers. That's down the road, so who knows :rolleyes:

Don't give the links a thought if your not ready for them yet. When time comes to do the links your gonna want more of a fresh start anyhow.

Have you hung on your spring mounts, or is that a way to loose some of the lift youll gain by adding the swivel blocks under the springs?

[Jordan7118]

Have you hung on your spring mounts, or is that a way to loose some of the lift youll gain by adding the swivel blocks under the springs?

Yes and yes.

[gittinit]

Ok Jordan the reason i dont like swivel perches

1-100 they add leverage like a block, therefore adding to your already apparant spring wrap issues
101 what are you really gaining? they don't free up any suspension movement, or add flex to your suspension
102 they increase axle wrap
103 another point to break
104 they increase axle wrap
105 leaf springs are simple why complicate them
106 they increase axle wrap
107 some of the forces sent to the blocks are sent to the alreedy thin axle housing tubes
108 they increase axle wrap
109 the swivels take away the twisting forces to help save your springs from an early death, but all your saving is a set of junkyard springs
110 they increase axle wrap
111 the time spent engineering and building these blocks could be better spent on making a shifter knob or something usefull lik a cooler mount
112 they increase axle wrap
113 Oh and incase I forgot they will turn yor springs into ssssses

You coud always run some really stiff leafs to add to the bad design. Don't get me wrong I like swivel perches, and I think everyone should have em. :D Well everyone except me.

[Jordan7118]

Sounds like anti-wrap bar and I'm set :p

So, aside from anti-wrap bar, what else?

[gittinit]

Sounds like anti-wrap bar and I'm set :p

So, aside from anti-wrap bar, what else?

put em on a diet, full skid (keep weight low) armor and wheel! You should have that done in time to come to Flat Nasty for thanksgiving weekend. Come and check out more wheeling areas and your ideas will change about what you want to do. Hows your side hill ability? :cool:

[Jordan7118]

put em on a diet, full skid (keep weight low) armor and wheel! You should have that done in time to come to Flat Nasty for thatnksgiving weekend. Come and check out more wheeling areas and your ideas will change about what you want to do. Hows your side hill ability? :cool:

Side hill ability is good. I really think it'll be fine with the pivot blocks. I'm not sure if I want to do that anymore. I might just french and then see what's up. I've heard about 5 people in love with this pivot block concept. Dunno...

I think I could link quite fine for the price I'm about to drop in some of this stuff :rolleyes:

[gittinit]

Side hill ability is good. I really think it'll be fine with the pivot blocks. I'm not sure if I want to do that anymore. I might just french and then see what's up. I've heard about 5 people in love with this pivot block concept. Dunno...

I think I could link quite fine for the price I'm about to drop in some of this stuff :rolleyes:

I was amazed with how much the 4 link increased the capabilities of my rig. It may be something you want to plan for. If you french in your spring hangers and add a well built antiwrap bar you will prolly see some defined gains in wheelability. You can prolly even design your antiwrap bar to hep protect the driveshaft.

[Jordan7118]

If you french in your spring hangers and add a well built antiwrap bar you will prolly see some defined gains in wheelability. You can prolly even design your antiwrap bar to hep protect the driveshaft.

Kinda what I'm thinking.

I still think that if french, I can use that point for a 4-link later. Hate all ya want, that's just my thoughts.

By then, I'll probably have another rig... a buggy... and it'll spank your ass... and you'll be sad... because I saved so much money by switching to Geico <pirate salute>

Seriously, I think the anti-wrap bar and frenched springs will up my fresh quite a bit. I'm looking forward to it.

[slacker24/7]

[QUOTE=Jordan7118;1766519]
"I'll probably have another rig... a buggy... and it'll spank your ass..."
:scared: Please just take it easy on us..... :flipoff4:

so its gonna take you how long to do this build? are we ever gonna wheel ?? lemme know when , so I can buy another can of krylon and freshen up my rig.. :flipoff4:

[Jordan7118]

[QUOTE=Jordan7118;1766519]
so its gonna take you how long to do this build? are we ever gonna wheel ?? lemme know when , so I can buy another can of krylon and freshen up my rig.. :flipoff4:

I dunno... I'm not too concerned. School is rockin' my face, so I've gotta keep that top priority. I've wheeled for the past 8 months and have an idea now of what I like and don't like. Now it's time to fix some screw ups and improve in some other areas. I'm just cool like that :D

[Jordan7118]

I think it's gonna go down tonight. Might be a little wild. I hate to talk it up too much in case I get nothing accomplished :rolleyes:

Stay tuned!

[Jordan7118]

Finally got some work done this weekend. Long post, I apologize...

I do a lot of lookin' and thinkin'. When I finally got around to looking at what I had, I just said "eff it, I'll make this work."

To note, I only got one slider and fender cut done. I do slow, deliberate work. It's what my mom call's "over analysis paralysis".

From the crossmember project, I had about 16 feet left of 1.5" x 4" x.120 wall tube. I decided to make this work. I also had some 1.5" x 1.5" x.120 wall tube, and I thought that would make good legs.

Here's the final product (for now). I'll explain what I did after the pic.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03612.jpg

I cut up to the door line for the 1.5" legs to fit up as high as possible. I cut legs at a 45* angle to meet the large tube. This gave the big tube a downward 45* slope, as I thought that would be the best angle to rub 'dem rocks. I also put a 55* angle on the end caps for some good rubbin'.

I have a 4 legs in total, and I was able to weld all the way around the legs. I didn't use a scab plate for these legs, but I think they'll be okay. Michael Faber mentioned tying these legs off to the body mounts, and I may still do that.

After looking at the rock rail further, I'm thinking about putting some 1.5" tube from near the bottom of the frame angled up to where the 1.5" meets the big tube, and then attaching a plate for more sliding. This wouldn't be much more trouble, would add triangulation, and would keep stuff from getting under the pinch weld. The pinch weld is now the lowest point aside from the 4" tube. I'll wheel and see if it's necessary.

I used Rustoleum Hammered paint from a can. I applied with a roller, and I really like the finish. It seems tough enough for what I'm about to do to it, and touch ups will be a breeze. Highly recommended.

More pics:

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03611.jpg

I scuffed the rocker panel and sprayed it black before putting on the slider. Hard to tell, but this pic is the best for seeing it.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03613.jpg

The worst of the four bottom welds. I got good penetration, though, on all the rest.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03614.jpg

For the rear fender work, I'm thinking about bending some tube around that and attaching to the slider for a clean look. Plus, sheetmetal work is a pain in the ass, I can already feel it... I left a small amount of the outer fenderwell to lap weld in the new sheet.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03615.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03616.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/Jordan7118/Snoopy/DSC03617.jpg


Also, a buddy and I put on an aluminum fairlead last week. Looks like I'll be runing synthetic still :cool: I ordered some more crimps to lock up the cable again. I liked how that looked last time, so I'll try it again.


I have a friend selling a bender with a 1 5/8" die (I know, I know... who the hell uses 1 5/8" tube... It's what we can get around here readily... and it's what die he has). Hopefully I can pick it up for a good price. Any recommendations for price on a JD2 model 3, degree ring, stand, handle and 1 5/8 x 180* die? I have an idea, but looking for reinforcement.

[gittinit]

toomuch thinking, not enough sawzall :saw: :D

[Jordan7118]

toomuch thinking, not enough sawzall :saw: :D

That's probably true. I just get so scared sometimes and then wet myself... :(

Michael, what ya think? I know you have more opinion / advice than that!

[79coyotefrg]

cut fender :saw: fill with tube :welder:

[slacker24/7]

looks good Jordon.... but your mom is right! ok so the fenders which sit next to the bashed in body panel, are what your worryin about making look good??
just kidding.. looks like ya do good work. gettin to use the plasma much?
you have 3 weeks....so get to..:saw::welder:

see ya Dave

[Jordan7118]

Thanks, Dave. Still haven't whipped out the plasma. Waiting on a compressor :rolleyes:

I think that working tube into the fender redo will be easier (and look a lot better / provide rub protection) than just sheetmetal alone.

I have less time than that to do work, dog. Germany eats two weekends to work, so that's a trade-off. It'll be fun, though. Oh well... He'll be ready. I won't let you guys down :saw: :welder: :eek: :cool: <---- That's how it's gonna go down :D

[gittinit]

That's probably true. I just get so scared sometimes and then wet myself... :(

Michael, what ya think? I know you have more opinion / advice than that!

Well i'm digging the slider, but otherwise you havent gotten enough done to even comment on. Keep plugging away, but don't neglect your grades.

[Jordan7118]

you havent gotten enough done to even comment on.


Touche, Obi Wan... Touche...

I'm going to look at a JD2 model 3 with a 1 5/8" die, stand, degree ring, handle. Used for about 20 bends he says. What do you think that's worth?

[gittinit]

Touche, Obi Wan... Touche...

I'm going to look at a JD2 model 3 with a 1 5/8" die, stand, degree ring, handle. Used for about 20 bends he says. What do you think that's worth?

New...$700
used...$500
Well used... $350

I wouldnt take under $700 for mine even with its extreme wear. I would be lost without it.

[Jordan7118]

New...$700
used...$500
Well used... $350

I wouldnt take under $700 for mine even with its extreme wear. I would be lost without it.

Welp, that's the price I was thinking. Now just gotta go sell some drugs... :shiner:

[Jordan7118]

Here's a quote I just received. Darn good price!

"Hi Jordan,

Thank you for the opportunity to quote!

Model 3 bender with degree ring and handle: $295.00
1-5/8" x 5.5" 180º Die: $290.00

Shipping: $52.50

Total: $637.50

Let me know if you have any questions or need to get this setup on the way!

Thank you,

Christian "

From: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273623&highlight=

[YotaJosh]

Please do it. :) Never hurts to have more than one "bender" in the club.

Plus, it'll compliment your welder and new plasma really well!

I like your sliders - simple yet elegant.

[Jordan7118]

Thanks for the props, Josh!

I picked up the bender from my friend before I left the country. Looking forward to learning how to use it. I think hydro conversion is very close in the works - I just don't have room to bend any dang tube!!!

Built the other slider this past weekend.

I drilled out some bushings and some perches tonight to get everything to 9/16" or 3/4" hardware. Those 3/4" bolts are some big suckers...

So, I'm still hopeful that I'll make it to Cass. However, I have a gaping hole where my rear fenderwell was - oops. I guess I'll just run what I brung and see what happens... Or maybe I'll patch it up with sheetmetal. I for sure can't do tube right now, because that requires having an attachment point for the rear portion of the tube, which means making a wrap-around bumper, but I can't do that until I bob the rear, and I can't do that... well, you get the drift. Snoop winter rebuild is gonna be killer... if it ever happens... :rolleyes:

[gittinit]

I'm glad to hear you got the bender. I can't wait to see what snoop morphs into.

[Jordan7118]

Yea, I'm looking forward to seeing where this goes. Not gonna be easy, but that which is worthwhile is difficult to attain.

[gittinit]

Yea, I'm looking forward to seeing where this goes. Not gonna be easy, but that which is worthwhile is difficult to attain.

Wise you are master.


:p BLAAA!!!

[Jordan7118]

Finished my rear shackles tonight. Pretty beefy.

Almost done putting the leaf springs back on in the rear.

Not much, but it's progress...

[Jordan7118]

Been working on the air over hydro conversion for the bender.

Used 6" of 3" sch. 40 that acts as a clamp on the ram. It's been fun trying to make PIPE work where TUBE is needed. For example, I need a bushing that allows a .75" bolt through. Tube would be great, but had to make 3/4" PIPE (~.72 ID) work.

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303&page=6

Then I plan to build a stand.

The good thing about this air/hydro conversion is the ability to take the ram off the bender and use it to lift Snoop up by the frame. That's a lot better than hand cranking the stock Tacoma jack I've been using :o

[gittinit]

I like it. I couldnt vie the picscouse I didn't want to start an acct., but its a good idea. I'll prolly just order the copper head fab version when I do finally get ready to go this route.

[YotaJosh]

The good thing about this air/hydro conversion is the ability to take the ram off the bender and use it to lift Snoop up by the frame. That's a lot better than hand cranking the stock Tacoma jack I've been using :o

Get a good floor jack before you kill yourself. :shiner:

[Jordan7118]

I like it. I couldnt vie the picscouse I didn't want to start an acct., but its a good idea. I'll prolly just order the copper head fab version when I do finally get ready to go this route.

I've heard not so great things about that kit. I recommend just making it yourself. You'll save some time and money.