Another Parts list check...

[GOT COPE?]

This is just the list for the Front not including misc. nuts and bolts or labor, and I havent compiled the rear list yet. Thanks

80's Grand Waggy D44 w/o vac.
rotate knuckles 14* (dual case) as per Mike's website
Crane diff cover
Bent-up SAS Kit
shocks, shock tabs, shock hoops
Rancho 44044's
spring pads and u-bolts

PMP Knuckle Kit - PMPs New casting tall knuckles
Spicer ball joints with snap ring, cotter pin, nuts, adjuster
Spindle studs and nuts
PMPs *Custom flat arms or **Super arms
High steer studs
Cone washers
Lock nuts
Stop bolt and nut

PMP TRE's
1ea. ES2027L (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2027L.htm)
1ea. ES2233L (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2233L.htm)
2ea. ES2234R (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2234R.htm)

spindle bearing and axle seals and a spindle nut socket
wheel bearings and seals
Warn Premium Hubs
steering shaft or extension
rotors calipers and pads
Dorman wheel studs
front d-shaft
D44 - Toyota pinion yoke adatper
D44 ARB (I have the compressor)
4.88's
master install kit
CTMs
Yukons or Superiors
36" Iroks
Wheels (TBD)
SS brake lines
shackles, mounts, bushings and bolts
re-fab tranny mount for d-shaft clearance
pitman arm
steering box frame reinforcement

T-100 oil pan
oil strainer
gasket P/U tube
dipstick
dipstick tube
union

Now a few ?'s
I mentioned in another post Id like to run a ram assist, would anyone like to suggest a complete kit? Steering box, hoses, pump, reservoir, ram, etc. Howe PSC etc?

Are the Superior shafts worth the xtra $ over the Yukons? Any opinions?

Any benefit to cryo'ing the 4.88's? It's only $20-30 from what Ive seen.

Which pitman arm, Ive seen some used with an insert and some w/o it. Which arm???

High steer arms Ive seen some corrected 10* and Mikes were 15*. Is there a standard here? Whats the difference?

TIA :)

[AK98Taco]

Parts Mike has a steering arm kit with the arms and all hardware, with or without Super Arms. Because you are running leaf springs, I think the Super Arms will be almost mandatory for tie-rod clearance during compression.

Secondly, Parts Mike makes a tie-rod draglink kit to length, which might save you money over having tubing cut.

[GOT COPE?]

bump :confused:

[Mike]

rotate knuckles 14* (dual case) as per Mike's website


14* turned out to be a little much for my height, but might work for others. It's no big deal though, the pinion is up out of harms way.

Later,
....Mike

[GOT COPE?]

14* turned out to be a little much for my height, but might work for others. It's no big deal though, the pinion is up out of harms way.

Later,
....Mike

Id like to run 36 or 37's on 44044's w/ no BL and dual cases. Thats what youre running but w/ 35's right? Did you remove any leaves from the Ranchos?

and what about: High steer arms Ive seen some corrected 10* and Mikes were 15*. Is there a standard here? Whats the difference?

Thanks for the input!

[Mike]

Id like to run 36 or 37's on 44044's w/ no BL and dual cases. Thats what youre running but w/ 35's right? Did you remove any leaves from the Ranchos?

and what about:

Thanks for the input!

I didn't remove any of the leaves, running the packs as they come.

As far as my bent arms, that was before Parts Mike made nice tall arms that clear the springs.

Later,
....Mike

[TACORICAN]

[QUOTE=GOT COPE?]
Are the Superior shafts worth the xtra $ over the Yukons? Any opinions?

Any benefit to cryo'ing the 4.88's? It's only $20-30 from what Ive seen.

Which pitman arm, Ive seen some used with an insert and some w/o it. Which arm???

I believe he is still waitting for answeres on these. I would like to know too. PLEASE!!!!!! :saw:

[GOT COPE?]

Yep, thanks and bump.

[sgirt]

Are you using the Waggy hubs, rotors and calipers?

[GOT COPE?]

I dont have anything yet I researching it right now. Hope to buy an axle by endo of the year to start building.

Im gonna use the waggy spindles w/ superior chromoly shafts, warn premium hubs and whatever rotors and calipers fit. Rotors and calipers arent one of my burning ?'s so I havent yet figured out which ones I need. Ive heard some using Chevy calipers.

Mike used cheapo calipers and rotors from Autozone, as far as I know he's still running them. But Im not sure what make they fit or any part #'s.

$84.99 1/2 ton Premium hubs(most Dana 44/10 bolt) (http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=3&products_id=177&osCsid=495c8ff272fe1a9613c2dda539932389) I reckon these'll work:shiner: but I aint shore :D I plan to have a comprehensive list with all part #'s to post up for others. May even have that before I have a SAS, uhh I mean SAC. :rolleyes:

[sgirt]

Thanks for the reply. I have an axle and building it. I have heard and read from here that most use Chevy rotors/calipers and Hub. Hub meaning the metal where the Warn 20990's will go into and where the wheel bolts to.

I posted a question a bit ago and someone replied saying use Chevy parts due to parts are cheaper and easier to find - Use K20/K10 parts. On Auto Zone's site the Rotor and Calipers are the same part number for Chevy/Waggy. For the Waggy you can get a hub/rotor combo for around $50 and are new. Rotors are only $22 by themselves.

Are the stub shafts shorter or something on a Chevy requiring a shorter hub?

I want to be sure before I buy these parts. Would like the combo, cause my hubs are pretty rough.

Thanks for helping clear this up for me.

[GOT COPE?]

Thanks for the reply. I have an axle and building it. I have heard and read from here that most use Chevy rotors/calipers and Hub. Hub meaning the metal where the Warn 20990's will go into and where the wheel bolts to. The lil thingy that sticks out and the hubs is on the end? Thats the spindle :D

I posted a question a bit ago and someone replied saying use Chevy parts due to parts are cheaper and easier to find - Use K20/K10 parts. On Auto Zone's site the Rotor and Calipers are the same part number for Chevy/Waggy. For the Waggy you can get a hub/rotor combo for around $50 and are new. Rotors are only $22 by themselves. I know Chevy knuckles are compatible with Waggy inner C's and thats the common knuckle used around here. From there out I agree most are running Chevy braking setups.
I believe you can run either spindle (Chevy or Waggy) no matter what brake setup. But Chevy parts and spares are cheaper and easier to get ahold of than Waggy stuff. But I plan on running Waggy chromo shafts to start with so Im gonna stick with the waggy spindle. Im not sure if they make chromos to fit a Waggy axle with a Chevy spindle. I still dont have it all figured out. So anyone feel fre to offer some input.

Are the stub shafts shorter or something on a Chevy requiring a shorter hub? I know chevy shafts are different lengths and will be diff lenghts on opposite side than that of the Waggy since Chevy D44's had p-side diffs. Im trying to figure out what shafts are being used with a Chevy spindle as well.

I want to be sure before I buy these parts. Me too :D Sorry I cant help any better. im still a SAS research noob.

[GOT COPE?]

The smart thing to do would be to go with the Chevy outers from an early 70's K10 or K20. I am running the waggy outers on my HP D44 and it is a pain in the ass to find spare stubb shafts. The chevy parts are really cheap and the stubb shafts are everywhere. I plan on swapping soon if I don't get chromo shafts. Either setup will work on the partsmike knuckles. As long as you use either all chevy parts or all waggy parts on the outers.

Later
-Trent


So I dug this up from the thread U started Sgirt. Apparently They say use Waggy inners w/ Chevy outers (stub shafts) and since you use the Chevy stub shaft you must also use the Chevy spindle and the appropriate hubs, (not sure if its the same (hubs) part #)

What I want to know is when you go to chromos after having used the Chevy outers setup, must you go back to Waggy spindles? How doe this work? Can you order waggy chromo inners and Chevy chromo outers to keep the spindle setup and continue to make finding spares easy just in case you do break a chromo? Help dammit :D

[AK98Taco]

So I dug this up from the thread U started Sgirt. Apparently They say use Waggy inners w/ Chevy outers (stub shafts) and since you use the Chevy stub shaft you must also use the Chevy spindle and the appropriate hubs, (not sure if its the same (hubs) part #)

What I want to know is when you go to chromos after having used the Chevy outers setup, must you go back to Waggy spindles? How doe this work? Can you order waggy chromo inners and Chevy chromo outers to keep the spindle setup and continue to make finding spares easy just in case you do break a chromo? Help dammit :D

Yes, stubs and spindles must be the same make (Chevy-Chevy, Jeep-Jeep).

As far as custom shafts go, order the stub shaft that is compatible with your spindle. The vendor will know what shaft works with what spindle.

[GOT COPE?]

Yes, stubs and spindles must be the same make (Chevy-Chevy, Jeep-Jeep). Thanks I gathered that from you in another thread.

As far as custom shafts go, order the stub shaft that is compatible with your spindle. The vendor will know what shaft works with what spindle. Mad4wd or something sells Waggy 44 chromos, a set, inner and outer $330 dside and $350 pside. So Im assuming I would tell them (if I went with a Chevy spindle) that I would need to mix and match set of chromo chevy outers and chromo waggy inners? Gotcha. Thanks Not a bad idea since it sounds like Chevy spares are more easily found.

NEW QUESTION weeeee So any Chevy D44 spindle from the local salvage should match right up to the Waggy 44 w/ Chevy knuckles? Or is there a specific Chevy D44 year I should look for to get a spindle from? TIA

[AK98Taco]

NEW QUESTION weeeee So any Chevy D44 spindle from the local salvage should match right up to the Waggy 44 w/ Chevy knuckles? Or is there a specific Chevy D44 year I should look for to get a spindle from? TIA

I was playing with my pile of axle parts this summer and slapped a Waggy spindle onto my Chevy flattop knuckle; perfect fit.

I would bring the knuckle you want to use and try out spindles.

[GOT COPE?]

I would bring the knuckle you want to use and try out spindles.

I would too but I dont have the knuckles yet, I will do that if it comes down to it. And 99% of the salvage yards are real pissy about you picking and pulling, there's only a few pick n pulls in ATL. Most require doing it for you. :mad:

[PappaF2]

ok so you are trying to figure out the difference between waggy and chevy spindles and outer shafts correct? :confused:
There are 2 types of 19 spline d44 stub shafts. One comes on ford d44's, they are 9.72" center of the ujoint cap to the tip of the splines.
THe other 19 spline stub shaft is the chevy/waggy stub which is 9.94" center of the cap to the tip of the splines. These are the shafts that you want to use for your outers, the chevy and waggy uses the same stub.
Actually the ford shaft will work in a pinch as the are the same diameter and spline count, they are just a tad shorter so you can't get the circle clip on the stub once it is in the hub. I am actually running a ford stub now because it's all I had. But since you are buing new stuff just order the chevy/waggy outers.
As far as spindes go as far as I know the waggy splindles are the same as the 6 lug chevy spindles. THey are interchangeable, I have run 6 lug chevy spindles with waggy wheel bearings so they are the same. Just make sure you get the 1/2 ton 6 lug spindles because from what I understand the 8 lug 3/4 ton stuff has slightly larger spindles.
So go with either waggy spindles or chevy 6 lug spindles.
As far as the knuckles go the the spindle pattern is the same so waggy spindles will bolt up to chevy flattops.

As far as the difference between superior and yukon chromo axles goes, it depends how much you wanna spend and how much time you have.
From what I understand the Superiors are on a constant 4-6 week delivery time. SO if you need them quick I say go with Yukons. They are about half the cost of superiors so you cou actually run a set of yukons and carry a spare set of them for the same price as one set of Superiors. But the Superiors are as the name implies superior. They are the best d44 shaft you can buy right now, but are they worth twice as much as yukons???? I have heard both good and bad about yukons so it's hard to tell. I personally am still in limbo about what type of shafts I will run, I may wait for another month until the Alloy USA d44 shafts come out, from what they have made so far they look good. I guess alot of it depends on what you plan on running for tires and how you wheel. If you are staying with relativly small tires 35"-37" or so and are not a major throttle jockey then the Yukons will probably be fine, but if you are going 37" or bigger and plan on grabbing second and peeling out all day long I'd say go for superiors or a d60! :D

I hope I didn't miss any thing, but if I did or some of this doesn't make sense let me know. :D
-Todd

[dstrbdone]

ok so you are trying to figure out the difference between waggy and chevy spindles and outer shafts correct? :confused:
There are 2 types of 19 spline d44 stub shafts. One comes on ford d44's, they are 9.72" center of the ujoint cap to the tip of the splines.
THe other 19 spline stub shaft is the chevy/waggy stub which is 9.94" center of the cap to the tip of the splines. These are the shafts that you want to use for your outers, the chevy and waggy uses the same stub.
Actually the ford shaft will work in a pinch as the are the same diameter and spline count, they are just a tad shorter so you can't get the circle clip on the stub once it is in the hub. I am actually running a ford stub now because it's all I had. But since you are buing new stuff just order the chevy/waggy outers.
As far as spindes go as far as I know the waggy splindles are the same as the 6 lug chevy spindles. THey are interchangeable, I have run 6 lug chevy spindles with waggy wheel bearings so they are the same. Just make sure you get the 1/2 ton 6 lug spindles because from what I understand the 8 lug 3/4 ton stuff has slightly larger spindles.
So go with either waggy spindles or chevy 6 lug spindles.
As far as the knuckles go the the spindle pattern is the same so waggy spindles will bolt up to chevy flattops.

As far as the difference between superior and yukon chromo axles goes, it depends how much you wanna spend and how much time you have.
From what I understand the Superiors are on a constant 4-6 week delivery time. SO if you need them quick I say go with Yukons. They are about half the cost of superiors so you cou actually run a set of yukons and carry a spare set of them for the same price as one set of Superiors. But the Superiors are as the name implies superior. They are the best d44 shaft you can buy right now, but are they worth twice as much as yukons???? I have heard both good and bad about yukons so it's hard to tell. I personally am still in limbo about what type of shafts I will run, I may wait for another month until the Alloy USA d44 shafts come out, from what they have made so far they look good. I guess alot of it depends on what you plan on running for tires and how you wheel. If you are staying with relativly small tires 35"-37" or so and are not a major throttle jockey then the Yukons will probably be fine, but if you are going 37" or bigger and plan on grabbing second and peeling out all day long I'd say go for superiors or a d60! :D

I hope I didn't miss any thing, but if I did or some of this doesn't make sense let me know. :D
-Todd

Be careful when you buy. I picked up some chevy 10 bolts stubs while I was cruising the junk yard that were longer than the waggy shafts. They are not all the same. Just tell the supplier the year and make of your outers and they will be able to get you the correct shafts you need.

-Trent

[GOT COPE?]

Which pitman arm, Ive seen some used with an insert and some w/o it. Which arm??? TIA :)

Anyone wanna answer this one? Cant seem to figure out the science. Ive seen mention of about 6 different arms and still cant figure out why or how it was decided to use a particular arm.

[AK98Taco]

What types of tie rod ends are you planning to use? Chevy? FJ80? Standard Toy?

The inserts are used to adapt a stock IFS pitman arm to accept FJ80 or Chevy TREs.

http://www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com/pitmaninsert.htm

[GOT COPE?]

PMP TRE's
1ea. ES2027L (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2027L.htm)
1ea. ES2233L (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2233L.htm)
2ea. ES2234R (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/es2234R.htm) :D Chevy's (I think) :doh:

[PappaF2]

Anyone wanna answer this one? Cant seem to figure out the science. Ive seen mention of about 6 different arms and still cant figure out why or how it was decided to use a particular arm.
If you plan on running chevy tie rod ends and a stock pitman arm you need to cut out the pressed in ball joint on the toy pitman and weld in the proper insert. THere is now a new product made by one or two people which is a rod end that has a chevy thread size but actually allows you to use the ball joint thing that is pressed into the arm. Sky Manufacturing makes one
I am not sure if it uses fj80 threads or chevy threads but you get the idea.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/

[dstrbdone]

To answer 2 questions. First off a lot of people use the insert to mod the toy pitman arm to fit the 1 ton chevy TRE's. I am not real fond of that idea. PartsMike sells a milled Landcruiser arm that fits the chevy TRE's without having to weld in an insert. This is the one I am currently running. OK now for the knuckles. The Chevy / Jeep six lug knuckles are the same. The ford knuckles are cast differently. But all will fit on all D44 axles. Except I think Ford made a heavy 3/4 ton version of the D44 on some not all F250's which had the larger outers and hubs. Some people say to stay away from the knuckles that come from a drum brake front setup. I think it has to do with the way the lugs are clocked. To tell the truth though when I went to the junk yard to get my knuckles I ended up with 2 sets (a set for a friend). One set was from a late 70's J10 Jeep truck with drum brakes in front and the other set was off an 80's model Wagoneer that had discs up front. Both sets were identical. I ended up using the J10 set which was milled by PartsMike with no problems.

-Trent

[GOT COPE?]

Cool thanks guys.

[whitetaco95]

quick question. what were the year ranges on the driver side diff waggys. i dont know what year mine came from, and figured it to be easier to know (or a range) when it comes to ordering parts. thanks- ben

[GOT COPE?]

1980-1992 w/o vac disconnect :D peace