Stick welding tube

[equin]

Hey Fellas,

I'm not sure if this folder is to show off finished custom work, or if it can be used to ask questions on the actual fabrication process (like tools and methods) that get to the finished product. If the former, then please move it to whatever thread the mod deems appropriate.

My question concerns stick welding .120" wall tubing. I've MIG welded tubing using .035 wire, and I've stick welded 1/4" thick steel bars, but I've never stick welded tubing before. I realize I'll have to practice alot before I stop blowing holes through tubing, but to help me start off on the right track, I was wondering what electrodes you stick welding pros would recommend for tubing - 6013's? FWIW, I have a Lincoln AC 225 (220v) (yeah, I know, no DC capability, but when you're on a budget, what can you do, right?). I also plan on welding the tubing to 3/16" to 1/4" thick plate - tack weld with 6011's then go with 6013's? Or use 6011's the whole way, aiming at 1/4" plate and pushing the molten pool onto the tubing, keeping the speed up to avoid burning through the tubing?

Thanks for any tips.

[CronusTRD]

I used 7018AC rod (rod specifically for AC current) and didn't have any issues.

7018 will pretty much work for your situation.

Stick welding round tubing can be a pain, but practice practice practice.

[equin]

Thanks for the tip, Mike. And yeah, practicing can be part of the fun, til it starts hittin' ya in the wallet!

[Boheefus]

6013's are pretty user friendly...I think your main issue will be getting used to adding yet another axis of movement during welding...now it will be: angle, pull, lower, and around:) It definately takes getting used tot, but you will be ok...

Heefus

[WallyP226]

I too would recomend 7018, even with a AC machine.

Its makes for a strong weld, because it penetrates deeper than 6013 and yo can make it look just as pretty as jet rod. The down side is that it will be easier to blow holes in your tubing because of the deeper penetration, but thats what makes it a better weld stick. Stick with a rod under 1/8 inch. Preferably 3/32 sized rod, it will work better with the kind of machine you have, ie start better, and run easier.

7018 is the recomended stick for 4130 if that gives you an idea of its worthyness.

My two cent opinion is to buy Lincoln 7018 because the flux is easier to knock off with a LOT less banging and scraping and grinding when compared to the Hobart "Weld it" stuff. It isn't that both won't do a nice and quality but if its the same price for 10lbs, I see a benefit in not having to grind and bang so much.

Look at the weld, and see if you end up with depressions or bubbles, blowing holes, and piling up the rod on the steel to fine tune the amp settings. There is a curve, but its more than doable.

Wally

[equin]

Thanks for the reply and great advice, Boheefus. I've stick welded before in my welding class, even overhead and vertical up, but never got around to practice on tubing. Guess I'll see what that's like when I start practicing again.

[equin]

Thanks a bunch for the tips and advice, Wally. I was thinking of 6013 rod only because I figured it would be harder to blow a hole through the tubing - lol. Anyway, 7018 Lincoln rod in 3/32 size sounds like the ticket.

[WallyP226]

I guess I should have asked, what you are planning on making out of tubing?

Not that it really matters per se, just curious. I like to hear what people are making and how they are going about it. Never know when I might learn something.

Wally

[tanKoma]

also helps to put it in an oven heat up to like 350, down here in the south its humid as hell i dunno what its like where u are, 7018 is the low hydrogen rod, so u want least amount moisture otherwise u might have as well used a 6013

[equin]

Wally - If I ever get the time, I'd like to make a front bumper and some rock sliders.

Tankoma - thanks for the tip. I wouldn't have thought of that. I'm in Dallas, where it's not so humid as it is in Georgia, but it can get fairly humid sometimes. I used to live in Florida and along the Mississippi Gulf Coast, so I know what you mean about the humidity.

[Jfab]

Hey Ed,

I would say that I agree with WallyP226. The 7018 is a great rod but if you don't have much experience with stick, then like he said, it will be hard to not blow holes in the tubing. You might want to go with the 6013"s. They are easy to use and will give you all of the strength that you will need. Definetly go with the 3/32 dia. When stick welding tubing, I like to keep the rod at just under 90 deg. to the work piece and almost drag ( pulling toward you ) the rod around the tubing.

Which ever rod you use, you have the right idea with the puddle. Put the bulk of the heat onto the base material and manipulate the pool onto the thinner tubing.
BTW... I'm down here in San Marcos and rarely have an issue with humidity.

Good luck and take care,

Jayce

[equin]

Thanks for the reply and great advice, Jayce. Guess I'll start off with 6013, then once I get the hang of it, I might try 7018. FWIW, I managed to blow through 1/4" plate with 6011 when I first started learning how to stick weld in class a few years ago - lol. But yeah, I figured the principle would be the same as with MIG - shoot the thicker base metal and push the molten pool onto the thinner metal. I'll keep the rod at a slight 90 degree drag like you suggested and see how it goes. Thanks, amigo.

[jamarquardt22]

I too would recomend 7018, even with a AC machine.

Its makes for a strong weld, because it penetrates deeper than 6013 and yo can make it look just as pretty as jet rod. The down side is that it will be easier to blow holes in your tubing because of the deeper penetration, but thats what makes it a better weld stick. Stick with a rod under 1/8 inch. Preferably 3/32 sized rod, it will work better with the kind of machine you have, ie start better, and run easier.

Wally

Good info here. 6013 looks nice and runs easy but 6011 or 6010 will penatrate much better. 7018 will be good too a little stronger 60000 tinsil strength verses 70000 but if your using 1/8" thick tubing thats what will fail. not the weld.

[equin]

Thanks for the info on the tensile strength, Jamarquardt22. Some good info.

[Kyota]

6011 (This applies to all rods)
Digit 1&2-60 applies tto tensil strength in thousands
Digit 3-1 applies to position, meaning all in this case
Digit 4-1 applies to flux type

7018 is usually what you use for high strength applications. It will easily work on mild as well. Rods vary though.

For tubing, maybe try a 3/32" for it. Seems appropriate. But do some test welds and find a good setting on scrap metal; proper size of course.

When welding a thick piece of metal to thinner, base the heat more on the thicker metal, of course, and maybe whip back and forth momentarily to the tinner piece.

I dont think you should use 6011 cause it is much more difficult. But if you have a piece of metal that it looks as if it was on satans pitchfork, then 6011 will burn the shit outta about anything on the metal.

I didn't read most of the thread. Some may bave been repeated.

[equin]

Thanks for the info, Kyota. Luckily, I have some scrap steel in my storage shed just waiting to be practiced on.

[zszac111]

But if you have a piece of metal that it looks as if it was on satans pitchfork, then 6011 will burn the shit outta about anything on the metal.
.

took the words out of my mouth :D its been so long since ive had to use my stick welder so I wont give any advice, but if anyone needs any help with a good mig setup or tig i can help :)