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Waterpump replacement

3K views 24 replies 6 participants last post by  Dusty T. 
#1 ·
2002 Tacoma V6 Prerunner 130K miles

My truck has been leaking coolant, and therefore I am looking to replace the waterpump. I came across another site, http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/7...004/334801-2003-tacoma-timing-belt-5vzfe.html and therefore I am also looking to replacing the timing belt, thermostat, both radiator hoses, coolant, crank seal, and possibly the cam seals. Anything else I should look at? Trying to get everything at once, so I don't have to come back to open it up again anytime soon.

Any advice on parts/brands/special part #s I should use? I usually order parts from rockauto.com, but looking at the available parts there are a lot of options.
 
#5 ·
#7 ·
So, I am going at it, and I got the crankshaft bolt out finally, but now I cannot get the crankshaft pulley off. I have tried tapping it, and attempting to pry it off gently, but it doesn't move, and I am curious is there anything else that may be holding it on?

TIA
 
#10 ·
Yes, it is. Some will slip off easily by hand and others need a bit more encouragement due to rust between the crank and the pulley.

Make sure you threads the pulley puller bolts fully into the pulley so you don't seperate the two parts of the pulley. Also, the pulley weighs several pounds and if dropped on a hard surface will chip or crack it. Don't drop it! :)
 
#12 ·
You are getting old school on this! That's what people used to do before the hydraulic tensioner compressor was introduced.

You need to buy this guy http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH97300-Toyota-Tensioner-Compressor/dp/B000I1E92Q

And before you ask any more questions, read through this http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/index.htm

Disregard glueing the water pump on. This was used before the metal waterpump gasket was used for the 5vz, which is what you will get in your kit. Does not require glue.
 
#13 ·
I have read that before, and I have that tool already, but the kit that was suggested came with

1 Timing Belt Toyota 13568-69095
1 Idler Roller NSK OE 13503-62040
1 Tensioner Roller Koyo OE 13505-62070
1 Front Crankshaft Seal Toyota 90311-40022
2 Front Camshaft Seals Toyota 90311-38051
1 Water Pump Aisin OE 16100-69398-83
1 Water Pump Gasket Aisin 16271-62011
1 Hydraulic Tensioner Toyota 13540-62021
1 Thermostat (82°c) Toyota 90916-03075
1 Thermostat Gasket Aisin 16325-62010
1 Air Conditioning Belt Toyota 99364-20870
1 Alternator Belt Toyota 90080-91090
1 Power Steering Belt Toyota 90080-91126

So therefore I am attempting to change all these parts, as was suggested elsewhere.
 
#16 ·
I'm on the fence on the tensioner at 130k....it's probably ok now, but will it last for another 90k? I know mine was pretty weak at 180k and needed replacing. Yes, its a hassle getting the A/C bracket out of the way..... my 0.02 from a contrasting viewpoint than Pismos.

A couple of excellent 5vz-fe timing belt write-ups where the tensioner was not replaced:

http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjackie/timing belt/timing.html
http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html
 
#18 ·
I can respect your opinion. I will also bet money that yours was fine, however. :D
Mine wasn't fine. I pushed the pin back using just a light push on the work bench......it was just a bit out of spec according to the FSM.

So, the compromise: if it compresses using the special tool with tension re-use the old tensioner....if it compresses with little resistance, replace the hydraulic tensioner. :)
 
#19 ·
So your timing belt was flopping in the wind due to inadequate tension, causing it to jump a tooth, throw a cam/crank position sensor code, along with multiple misfire codes, and run like dog shit?

Or none of that happened and it was still working fine :D

The only FSM spec that has an actual measurement is the protrusion of the plunger, but you are describing inadequate resistance pressure. Just saying :D Carryon.
 
#20 ·
No codes, but the waterpump pulley and the pulley at the tensioner were both coated with burnt on rubber. Both pulleys seemed to spin fine so I attributed the rubber due to slack tension and the belt slapping/slipping over the pulleys. Also, the coolant temp dropped from 203-205 to 191-193 measured on the ScanGauge, in the same driving conditions, which I believe was from the belt not efficiently turning the water pump.

The FSM does speak of compressing the tensioner with a press, so it did seem reasonable that using just hand pressure was certainly outside the necessary spec that would require a press (or vice) to re-set the pin.

Anyhow, it was at 190k and I was doing the HG so the adding the tensioner was only a small add on to the overall project.
 
#21 ·
I replaced my tensioner when I did mine. I don't know if it was absolutely necessary or not...but seeing as how the kit I bought came with it and it was only a few more bolts to take off to move the AC I went ahead and did it. I ended having to leave the new tensioner out until I get the belt on, even with the pin in the new tensioner you will want that extra 1/8th of an inch it gives you with it out.:2cents:
 
#22 ·
Thanks again guys! I got it all back together, and took it out for a spin, and everything sounds good. rworegon, thanks for those additional walk throughs, as I had not found them in searches. Kinda of frustrating to try and use 3-4 different walk throughs to get the idea of what needs to happen, but I felt that each one wasn't thorough enough.
 
#25 ·
Not to hijack, but has anyone used Contitech? Just had mine done by a shop who used the contitech PP271LK1 kit. No idea, but the tech who installed it has an '03 tacoma 3.4 and is running it on his. I was a little surprised they didn't go with Aisin though I specifically asked for Toyota OEM.... A little annoyed about that, but if Conti is fine, then I'll run with it. Up to this point, I can't find any input on that kit......
 
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