I have an 01 reg cab with 170k and starting to get a light pulse while braking. I figure that a caliper is starting to hang up and warping the rotor, so why not upgrade, I carry a lot of tools and a fiberglass camper shell. I searched and found the write up, but the pictures do not load, all I get is a blue square with a question mark. I am on Safari, tried Firefox still no pictures. Is there another thread with pictures, I am cable of doing it with out, but it would be nice to see what is going on before I get there.
1 Reg Cab
2.7 5 Speed
Century Cap
Bilsien Rear Shocks
Deck Plate Mod
Series 40 Flow Master
Brand Spanking New Frame
Correct me if I'm wrong. I have done the Tundra brake upgrade on a 4runner and yes it is 100% bolt on.
On the other hand I'm almost sure since the Tacoma has a banjo joint and isn't hard-lined directly off the caliper you have to drill out the banjo to make it work. Therefore, no it's not 100% bolt on. I'm sure you could replace the front brake lines with a hardline though if you didn't want to drill.
Bump... Same issue on my truck, scuffing rotors/pads and rebedding helped but it came back 2 weeks later. Rotors heat up and shudder even during normal city driving.
I just ordered the Tundra s13we brakes for my
03 doublecab and wanted to post an update on pricing. I checked napa, autozone, kragen, and rockauto.
Rockauto and autozone came out the same after everything including discounts. But I figure autozone will be easier to return the core to (and the wrong core at that). It's an online order but I will try to return the core to the store. If you don't do a core return then rockauto is $10 cheaper. Napa was $40 more. If I knew for sure I was getting something better quality, I might go for napa, but I'll assume otherwise it's all reman'd by some factory slave worker overseas with a fancier label. Kinda like a fine wine.
Duralast reman calipers C9688, C9689 = $75 each + $30 core each
Duralast rotor 31267 = $55 each
Duralast semi-met pads MKD812 = $23 (I'm not a fan of ceramic)
$50/20% discount code for online orders, free shipping >$75
Total price = 316.39 shipped to my door ($256 after core return).
Website says they take 2 days to ship, free shipping is 3-5 days. Hope that gets here in time before my next trip to big bear because my pads are gone. I could have bought all this at the warehouse in south county but it would have costed more. But I didn't inquire if they'd match the online discount.
Probably shoulda got new brake hoses too but did not.
i'd recommend picking up a set of wheeler's offroad braided brake lines. they come with new banjo bolts that bolt right up to the tundra calipers. no drilling or modifications required.
i tried to drill out the stock banjo bolts on my swap and ended up with a weeping passenger side caliper. new lines and bolts from wheeler's cured the problem.
Thanks but I'm leaning towards rubber lines. Especially for a 4x4 with the suspension movement I'd be concerned about stressing the fittings on the SS lines, and you can't inspect them for failure because the pressure tube is concealed.
I'll do some research though. I know when I put SS lines on my corvette I had to get them 1" longer than stock due to them being stiffer. I also put some 1/2" shrink tubing over them to keep dirt out of the braids. SS could be better for debris/damage though if a stick or rock gets up in there.
Anyone know if the tundra rubber brake lines fit? I'll see what shape mine are in tonight.
One other thing I don't like is if I disconnect the sway bar without removing it it looks like it could snag and tear a brake line off. You'd have to articulate the suspension at full lock one way and then turn the wheel full lock the other way to get this scenario. I dunno if there's something here I should take into consideration for maybe longer lines or adding an extra bracket.
One other thing I don't like is if I disconnect the sway bar without removing it it looks like it could snag and tear a brake line off. You'd have to articulate the suspension at full lock one way and then turn the wheel full lock the other way to get this scenario.
My sway bar was disconnected for over a year and it definetly rubbed the brake line and wore it down. I have new wheelers lines waiting to be installed. Probably should do that sooner rather than later. Thanks for the reminder
Well I'm a bit disgruntled nobody mentioned the cast surface of the tundra calipers, these aren't suitable for banjo bolts.
I had some thicker copper washers which I used, and I also block sanded the caliper surface carefully to remove most of the rough cast.
Had I known this I probably would have considered fabbing up some correct brake lines with flare fittings. Even the wheelers lines don't factor this in.
System is leaking though after my bedding test run.. not quite sure where as the wind blew it around. I will check tomorrow with the g/f pressing on the pedal in the driveway and crank everything down more.
The thicker washers compensated for the banjo bolt length, or at least it appeared to. Maybe not after compressing the copper, and it's preventing them from sealing fully? I may have to drill it regardless.
There was also some bad info on multiple threads that the tundra rotors were the same diameter... My taco had 12" brakes on it. I panicked for a bit when I saw the 13" rotor, thought maybe I received the wrong parts. Stopping power seems impressive though. Has some more pedal travel, which makes sense due to the larger caliper pistons. Hopefully I didn't throw my brake bias too far out of wack.
I drilled my banjo bolt, it is beyond easy to do. Three years and no leaks. Ditch the washers and drill. I replaced good brakes when I did mine and did not notice any difference in the pedal or breaking performance under normal driving conditions. Pulling a trailer or with a heavy load in the bed my stock brakes would overheat and fade. That is the only difference I have noticed. Don't missunderstand, less fade is huge and it is definetly a worthwhile upgrade. I think people who claim huge improvements under normal driving conditions are replacing worn brakes that were not performing to spec.
I know this is the noob forum, but banjo bolts always require copper sealing washers regardless. Toyota puts some in there on the assembly line. And it's a good idea to change them anytime you mess with that bolt and clean the sealing surfaces.
The factory copper washers on mine were no thicker than the roughness of the caliper cast surface so it seemed like a horrible idea to try and reuse them. Glad yours worked, or maybe your calipers had a machined finish or something, but otherise I'd never recommend anyone try that because brake fluid leaks can be deadly. Also even with the banjo bolt drilled the stop on the banjo fitting can still bottom out on the caliper body with stock copper washers if you don't clock it correctly.
I don't tow anything yet, I carry motorcycles every now and then, but mostly I was fed up with trying to keep the stock brakes from shuddering when hot. I wasn't in the mood to spend time and labor and new stock parts for a dubious result, and the upgrade was only $250 for a sure thing.
I would agree with your assessment of the improvements over stock. For normal, everyday driving, there isn't much improvement. It's towing and heavy load stopping ability is the real reason to do this upgrade.
I am running 33" tires and pulling a trailer so I wanted the extra brakes and have been very pleased with the upgrade.
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