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Extended Rear Bump Stops?

19K views 41 replies 12 participants last post by  hytenor 
#1 ·
I have searched and found a little bit of information on adding extended bump stops after lifting the rear. My biggest question is are people using extended bumpstops? I've never come across any information except when looking for it specifically.

Anyone want to weigh in on this?

I'm most specifically interested in applications for 1st Gen Tacomas
 
#3 ·
Thanks. I have seen some of the one pictures in some other threads.

I think my biggest question is, it is necessary? I fully understand the benefits, and thats why I started searching for it. The reason I ask the questions is because I haven't run across this in reading through any of the lifting or suspension topics. You see plenty about why coilovers are better than spacers and whey new leaf packs are better than AAL but nothing about bump stops. And, of all the places that I've looked at, that sell lift packages, I haven't seen any place that includes or even mentions bump stops.
 
#4 ·
If you never take your truck offroad, then no, it's probably not necessary. If you do, your rear suspension when flexed should "bottom out" on the bump stops rather than your shocks, otherwise your shocks will live a very short life. Bump stops also prevent your leaf springs from going into a negative arch situation, also shortening their life.
 
#5 ·
If you wheel your truck, it is a good idea. It also depends on your rim width, and tire size though. What you are also trying to prevent is your tire coming up and hitting your bed/wheel well, and causing damage when at full flex, etc
 
#7 ·
The easiest way to know if you need an extended bump stop (or limit straps for that matter) is to cycle your suspension after you install your mods. I run longer bumpstops because I remove the stock ones and my shocks are a little longer then stock, so they would top out if I didn't have the longer bumps.
 
#8 ·
Many folk use bump stops to limit body contact...
But they're just too lazy to cut, trim or hammer. I'll think.

The only reason IMO to increase bump stop height
is so that the leaf springs cannot invert negatively
And if/when they do bottom out... it's a bit softer
^ (Timbren bumps bring 'da squishy)

For those lifting more then 3" worth of suspension
It could become more critical, as more arch would be
put into those springs... and inverting those too far
could be a real problem if they broke from inverting too far.

compressing to flat is OK IMO... and I've been doing that for years
'course... you may need to have yer leaf springs re-arched
every 5-6 years... depending on how hard you are on them.

I've always maintained the oem bumps at the rear on muh '00
For up to 3" of susp. lift... they should keep the spring from inverting.

but some trimming will be the order of the day ;)

* to get even more travel out the back...
longer shocks (10" SB's) would offer a little more droop to the axle.
But would require shock mount relocation.

I haven't done that. ...yet
so I want every bit of up travel (compression) I can have ;)



Here's where that little bit of extra axle droop
by extending the shock lengths, could be helpful



Here's a pic of my spring... pushing it's luck a Lil' bit
but so far... it just wears them out quicker. Meh... consumable shit ;)



example of what yer stock junk
wished it could do :p

 
#9 ·
I don't run any bumpstops on my rear chevy pack, I let the overload spring act as the bumpstop.

The rear of my rig is so light that when the leafs hits the overload, it won't compress any more.


Not so in the case with the Tacoma leafs though, where the overload doesn't really do much of anything. If I didn't have Chevies, I'd add extended bumps...
 
#10 ·
^ good point...

an overload leaf function works similar as a limiter
as they won't allow the leaf pak to invert too far.

Tho' in some cases... the overload leaf might limit compression travel...
...when that might not be desirable

I didn't like overload's on muh junk
Tho' maybe a necessary evil when hauling heavy loads :2cents:
 
#11 · (Edited)
#15 ·
in general, 2" of negative arch is the limit for most leaf spring pks. The idea is to maintain the same amount of negative arch as you had when stock. So, if you lift the rear 3" you need to extend the bumps by the same...to maintain that same NA figure.

some of the ideas in the previously posted thread are very good...check them out.

what I did when I was IFS:

more pics:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/~ccorley/mods/newbumpstopextensions/

they are easy/cheap to make if you have a welder/plasma torch ;)
 
#16 ·
By na I think you mean the uptravel of the springs from their static ride height. Stock springs sit pretty much flat and I seam to remember about 3.5-4" of uptravel when stock, that means the stock springs experience that much negative arch beyond flat(which is more then a lift spring should experience).
 
#20 ·
inane, IMO ;)
trying to get rubber bumps to line up like that...and then actually stay in full contact when compressing is about impossible. It may look fine in that pic but fully stuff that corner and take another pic.
also, that tall and skinny a bump won't have enough rigidity to do any good...will most likely snap with enough force in the right condition.

There are some ideas in that thread that are good alternatives.

I can make you a set of extensions...have done some in the past. how much they worth to ya? :p
 
#24 · (Edited)
If I may put in my :2cents:, you can cut some pieces of 2" ID pipes (mild steel) and weld plates on it, same like the 2x2 tubings, and make bump stop extension. Here are my samples, it not finished yet.;)
 
#26 ·
that'l work. just be careful welding galvanized pipe...the fumes can really screw up your lungs ;)
 
#28 ·
There are two bolt on options posted already.

Option #1-


Option #2-
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KU09037BK

It turns out they are 5" long, much longer than the 2 1/2" listed, but this is what I wanted/needed, 2 1/2" is too short! For my application I needed 3 1/2" so I cut them down with a saw and grinder.



Drilled holes in the back inner corner of the existing stock bump stop plate....was gonna do it Ruff Stuff style (like their u-bolt plates with 3 center pin settings) so they can be adjusted if needed....here's 2 holes drilled, 3/8" drill bit and a chainsaw file makes a nice tight fit.



Mounted up...



Of course there are other variations you can install in a similar fashion.
 
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