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Fuel filter connections leaking

12K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  boostedka 
#1 ·
So in the midst of my S/C install I thought I'd put a new fuel filter on as well to help with fuel delivery. And after I installed the filter and started up the truck it was leaking like a MF'er at the rear connection of the filter. So I removed it to put the old one back on for comparison and it slightly leaked from the front side connection. I then put the new one back on again this time connecting the rear connection first and now it's leaking the same way just out the front side now! (frustrating :mad:) I tried disconnecting/reconnnecting like a zillion times and can't get the shit to stop.

Has anyone else had this issue? And can give me some tips on how to keep it from leaking?

I thought of this whole project this would be the simplest task and it's turning out to be the only thing holding me back. Any help is appreciated.
 
#2 ·
If it makes you feel better, my fuel filter install was worse. My line running to the engine was so corroded I had to cut the fuel filter off then use a vise and a large set of vise-grip pliers to get the line out. Toyota and every parts store was out. I had to rig a line out of rubber fuel line, hose clamps and the tail end of the line I cut.

Did you buy a Toyota one?

I did this a few years back. If I remember correctly the ends are flared, kinda like brake line. Make sure the 2 lines are running straight into the fuel filter. If they're bent from you getting the old filter off maybe the lines aren't seating well. Make sure you tighten enough and Good Luck
 
#4 ·
THanks for the help guys.

The filter I bought is from toyota. Don't think I over tightened the fitting i have been hesitant to do so just because of that what Norcal mentioned. I did so reading over on TW as well, sounds like an alignment issue like what Mario mentioned. I'm going to mess with it again some more this morning so hopefully I'll have better results
 
#5 ·
I just wanted to post a follow up to help out anyone that may have this same issue in the future.


I got the leak fixed this morning!!!

I took out that 10mil bolt that holds the filter in the bracket and kept the cab mount bolts loose as well so the filter could sort of hang freely. Then I just loosed the front filter connection and tightened it up a couple of times and it was ALL GOOD


Thanks again for all the help.
 
#6 ·
Shit i think im in the same boat as mario I tried to change out the fuel filter and the metal started bending like an oil filter does when you put a wrench on it

Luckily I stopped before it bent to far, does anybody have any tricks to loosing the banjos without destroying the filter.
 
#7 ·
Yeah don't do what I did and have to buy another line from Toyota. Since then I've figured out a way.

The open end wrenches seems to just round the line over if the assembly is corroded. Let some penetrating oil set in for a while, a full day if you have to. Then get a good pair of vise-grips pliers on the fuel line end and and an open end wrench on the filter end. The vise-grips seem to work better than the open wrench because that the metal on the line is so malleable. Just make sure you hold the open wrench tight so the line doesn't twist and really lock the vise-grips on there at a good angle so you can loosen the line. Also, I didn't need to use the vise-grips to tighten the line into the new filter.
 
#8 ·
If I can say something, use tubing wrenches or another word for it is flare nut wrenches, the same wrenches used to remove the flare nuts on brake tubings. Can get those from Sears, or NAPA.:2cents:
 
#11 ·
Werd. You shouldn't need any wrench on the fuel line itself
Umm yes you do. The end of the fuel line has a fitting. That fitting needs to be loosened from the stationary fuel filter. Hence the wrench. You need a wrench to loosen a brake line don't you? Sorry if you wanted me to say, use a wrench on the fuel line fitting. :rolleyes:


If I can say something, use tubing wrenches or another word for it is flare nut wrenches, the same wrenches used to remove the flare nuts on brake tubings. Can get those from Sears, or NAPA.:2cents:
Everyone I know calls them flare nut wrenches. Yeah those might work they have a little more surface area than an open end wrench. I might give those a try next time, good idea. The open end and flare nut wrenches work great without corrosion. Fuel lines get corroded on boats all the time from salt water and we always use vise-grips because everything else just rounds the fitting.


I think i ended up using a 14mil on the fuel line fitting and a 19 mil on the filter end. Both open ended wrenches
Must be nice living in New Mexico. Things get a lot harder when you have to deal with corrosion and rust.
 
#13 ·
So yo need a wrench on the fitting, not the actual fuel line ;)
Okay I might or might not have walked into that one... touche sir haha. Even though you knew exactly what I meant, I shouldn't lead those with no common sense astray. Even though I said, "fuel line end", I can see how some might misinterpret that...

For Future Reference:
 
#14 ·
Just a heads up for people thinking about doing a fuel filter on a 5VZ, there are many that have the inlet line fitting come from the factory over-tightened and stripped. If the inlet line loosens a few turns then stops, don't force it, put it pack and order the hard line and then replace that and the filter at the same time so your rig isn't down longer than it needs to be.

It also helps to put a wrench on the filter when loosening/tightening the fuel line fittings. The bracket allows the filter to bend too much to get a good grip if you just have a wrench on the fuel line fitting.
 
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