I getting ready to change the front brakes and rotors on my 06 Tacoma d-cab v-6, and was wondering if anyone knew of any write up on how to do it. I have never changed brakes pads or rotors before, but I just dontt think it can be that hard. The dealer wants over 400.00 for the job and I just cannot swing it right now. I have seen some videos and information about it but not on an 06 Tacoma. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is a fail of a post. Don't be a dumbass, rotors should ALWAYS be resurfaced if they are at least 2mm from the discard diameter. If they are close to the discard diameter, they will be replaced. Thats how you do brakes the right way.
then quite driving like an asshat and stop smashing the brakes at the last second. seriously brakes should last quite awile on any type of vehicle if you have any concept of how to drive
For an 06, an average driver will be at 50k right now, 10k a year, which is a low estimate most likely. If this is his first brake job needed, he's doing pretty well.
The rotors are shot, lots of steering wheel shake when braking. I have had rotors turned in the past on various other Toyota's and they never seem to last more than 6mos. until they are warped again. I figure I will just do it all first time around.
then quite driving like an asshat and stop smashing the brakes at the last second. seriously brakes should last quite awile on any type of vehicle if you have any concept of how to drive
If you want proper pad wear the rotors should be checked. They definitely need to be resurfaced or replaced if they're shaking when the brakes are applied. His rotors lasted 6 years without resurfacing, that's not too bad. I'm not saying rotors always need to be replaced... just checked then dealt with accordingly.
Most brakes are the same, if you watch how one is done you should be able to figure out your own. look up some youtube videos or buy a Haynes manuel. Better yet get a friend that can help you. It's easy, you just need to know what you're doing. For example, bleeding the brakes, what to look for to see if the calipers are still good, not getting grease on the pads, brake in period, not over torquing your lugs...
O and spend a little extra and spring for the 3GD dimpled and slotted rotors from EBC. :2cents:
115 on my stock rotors and they haven't been turned yet. Also only on its second set of pads as well. Brakes should be easy. Just make sure you get the front off the ground and on a good set of jack stands and you should be fine. Let the wrenching begin
:xsmashoor guy asked a simple question, instead of being assclowns, why not just give him a simple answer.
Remember, even you know it alls had to learn at some point! :xsmash:
Lol, I'm driving right now and have to keep it short!
Go to you tube, search "change front brakes 2006 Tacoma"
You should have no problems, pretty straight forward.
WOW, anyway thanks for some of the responses, okay I have about 50,000 on an 06 which sees mostly in town driving and pulled a pretty big pop-up most of its life over the mountains of West Virginia and Virginia. This is its first brake work it has needed.
The funny thing is all I really needed to know is which bolts hold(I think their are only 2) the caliper on. From what I have seen the rest is very easy. I just thought a write up would help speed up the the job a little for someone who has never done brakes before.
I guess a newbie asking a question in the newbie forum is just to much for some. Oh, and I can't seem to find my asshat anywhere has anyone seen it.
Rotors do not have to be turned, and most certainly do not need replaced unless there is a problem. You like pissing your money away, then who am I to argue?
My Taco has 137k on the rotors, and they are not grooved, or warped. Therefore they have not been resurfaced. My Saturn has 170k on the original rotors, and they are also not warped or grooved. My old 1990 truck had 220k on the original rotors when I sold it, they too were fine.
To the OP, if your rotors are damaged, well then you obviously need them to be replaced though.
If there were no other problems I would just replace the pads and call it good, but I am getting a lot of brake feedback through the steering wheel when braking. So I am going to replace the rotors while I am at it.
It has been "my" experience with Toyota rotors that when they are turned they do not stay true for very long. I did this with my 03 4runner and the rotors had to be replaced about 6 months later and they warrantied the pads for new ones. After the new rotors all has been good for the past 3 years.
I do not like throwing my money away this is why I am going to learn to do this myself and not pay someone a crazy price for what seems like a quit easy job. That being said, I just like everyone else, am very busy and do not want to do this more than I have to and am just going to buy new rotors along with the pads and do it all at once and hopefully be done with it for the next 50,000 miles or so.
Braking feedback would more commonly be felt thru the brake pedal.
Sounds to me like you have more going on then just brake issues
and replacing your brakes may not correct your issues or complaint.
Steering wheel deflection or shimmy could more so
be related to the steering rack or other worn suspension components.
or possibly worn out rack mount bushings
Simple things like alignment and tire balance could be of issue as well.
just sayin'
so that yer 100% sure... before you dole out yer money on something that
might not correct your issues.
I understand what you are saying but the steering wheel only shakes when the brakes are applied. This really seems to be a simple case of warped rotors. The pads are not on the indicators yet but I dont want to put old pads on new rotors.
x2, pretty textbook occurrence with warped rotors.
Pads are only around $60 from Toyota, and note that if the pads are an AZ number, they include shims as well. If they are less than 50%, just replace them with the rotors then you don't have to mess with them for a while if you put old pads on new rotors.
If you're asking that question please watch a YouTube video and read the manuel link. There are no bolts that hold on the rotors. They go over the wheel studs the the lug nuts hold everything in place. That's why it's important not to over torque the lugs. Torque the lugs in the proper pattern gradually. Don't just torque the first nut to 83 right from the start.
Also when you read the manuel links look at the fasteners. Each will have 3 numbers like this, # (#, #). The last number is the foot pounds number. So it it's 100 (1,000, 90)... 90 means 90 foot pounds. The first and second numbers are for different number systems. Ones newtons and the other is kilograms. There's a key on the bottom of each page.
Wouldn't quite say balling. I've got 220 K on the original, only having them shaved once. I figure if I can get that quality again it's well worth the price. I'll check those other ones out though, thanks. Spend anytime at Mongo's? The Central Coast is awesome.
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