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Manual Hub play

5K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  hossmaster 
#1 ·
With the front dial off and hub body still on, how much play is acceptable for the axle shaft? I have one that seems to allow about 1/4" maybe a bit less of up down or left right movement. I haven't taken the body off yet just looking for recommendations and things to look for when I change the hub out.
 
#2 ·
shouldn't be much play at all if you are saying the hub base (with hub gear) are still there, just the dial portion removed. This assumes the axle shaft is pushed in fully from the back of the hub.
pics?
 
#8 ·
Do you have the snap ring, and bolt installed?
The snap ring and bolt are only to keep the axle shaft from sliding out.

I'm not sure what the rules are here for posting links to other forums are. Still learning my way around here.
Tech is tech is tech. Post up what you've got.


I've taken my spindle and hub off quite a few times on manual locking hubs and I do not know what this "spindle bushing" is. Are you talking about the oil seal on the backside of the hub? Its straight up metal on metal back there. There is no rubber.
He's talking about the brass spindle bushing that is found on 79-95 spindles.



OP, 1/4" of play between the hub and the hub gear doesn't seem like too much. I've got spare hubs that have the same amount of play. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I had some of the same play after doing a Manual Hub conversion. I posted up on another forum and I think after listening to suggestions, I have narrowed it down to being a spindle bushing issue. If you google "spindle bushing tool" and add a couple different forum sites you'll find a couple of ways to tackle it if you think this may be your issue. I'd post some links for you but the site I have them on is down right now. If you don't have any search luck, send me a PM and I'll send you some links. I'm not sure what the rules are here for posting links to other forums are. Still learning my way around here.
 
#12 ·
There should be some play in the axel. The spindle bushings hardly never wear out with a front end that has manual hubs its entire life. If the front end has ADD, where the axels are always turning, they seem to wear out around the 200k mark. This is why it's such a good idea to switch to manual hubs due to less wear on the front end. It will sound like a metal on metal sound, which most people think are there wheel bearings.

Slee offroad makes a spindle busing tool to lube them up, it works pretty good.

The only way to check this spindle bushing is to pull the spindle and see if the grooves in it are shot. If you do replace the bushing, there is a dust shield seal that needs to be replaced too. The only place I know that sells this is the dealer.
 
#13 ·
There is also a brass bushing in the manual hub itself, between the hub gear and back plate of the hub. It's in use whenever the hubs are unlocked.

If it is not greased up good, it can wear down quickly


Sent from my iThingy using Tapatalk
 
#15 ·
It probably is that bushing. I just checked the splined hub movement in a hub that is in near new condition and the play is only about .005"-.010". With as much play as he says he has brass bushing just behind the hub body and the needle bearing at the back side of the wheel hub must also be shot. The bushing in the pictures is the one pressed into the wheel hub, it's main function is limiting shaft end play but if the hub bushing goes out it is the next thing in line.



 
#23 ·
i think im pretty fawkered here, where do you find a manual hub assembly? There is not much out there on the algorenet to help. I have another set of spindles with prerunner hubs in them that I guess i could swap out, but that is still some salad.
 
#24 ·
Anyone ever get their brass bushings out? ORS too bad they are closed, had them for sale as a press in. Rader if they come out easy would you sell yours?
 
#25 ·
car-part.com = easy way to find a new whole spindle assembly.
 
#26 ·
Well I took both sides apart and both look remarkable. There was no wear on either brass bushings or the needle bearings. I cleaned and greased everything and the noise is now gone. Added a couple of turns on the driver side coilover to reduce the gansta lean and all is good. My only guess is that the passenger brake caliper was a bit loose allowing it to shift when hitting the brakes in reverse and allowing it to rattle a bit. whoops
 
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