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help with axle boot change

2K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  DudeMan 
#1 ·
I would really love to try to do this myself, but really dont have any kind of direction. I have youtubed it and found some similar situations but are still different enough to throw me off course and get confused. Does anyone know of any really good directions or video's for this repair. My axle is still in good condition and does not make any noises. However I have a small pinhole leak in the inner boot. So I bought a boot kit from toyota. I bought the inner and the outer since I will have to take the whole axle out anyway. I might as well change both while it out.

My truck is a 2002 4 wheel drive 3.4l ext cab

I do have some 881 ome springs and a 1 " cornfed spacer over them and a diff drop. I dont know if any of the lift componets will effect this repair, but I listed them to be safe.

Thanks for any advice.
 
#2 ·
It's not a hard process but the proper tools will make your day so much better. Get yourself a pair of snap ring pliers.

I've done four of these so I can answer what ever questions you may have. I don't have a video or write up on it but I'm pretty sure I could walk you through it.

I currently have one apart right now...so if you need some pics to help you along let me know. I could snap some shots for you if you need visual reference at any certain point of the process.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I do not drain the diff oil as only a small bit come up if you are jacking up one side at a time.

Taking the entire outer joint is apart is a real pain if you don't know how. It can be cleaned with a can of brake cleaner allowing the old grease to drain out. After cleaning, blow it all out with compressed air. If you don't have a compressor, can air can be used to blow it out (certainly not as efective)and then let dry completely before reassembly.

A pliers like this will crimp the ears on the clamps (or dull end nip pliers will work):
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30800-Boot-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B0002SREPY

This plier is good on the lock ring clips:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44900-Lock-Ring-Plier/dp/B0009OR974

Black grease = outboard boot
Yellow Grease = inner boot/tulip joint

The black grease is very messy.... latex gloves are advised and wear old clothes.

Components: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/comp.pdf
Removal: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/remo.pdf
Disassembly: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/disa.pdf
Reassembly: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/reas.pdf
 
#9 ·
I do not drain the diff oil as only a small bit come up if you are jacking up one side at a time.

Taking the entire outer joint is apart is a real pain if you don't know how. It can be cleaned with a can of brake cleaner allowing the old grease to drain out. After cleaning, blow it all out with compressed air. If you don't have a compressor, can air can be used to blow it out (certainly not as efective)and then let dry completely before reassembly.

A pliers like this will crimp the ears on the clamps (or dull end nip pliers will work):
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30800-Boot-Clamp-Pliers/dp/B0002SREPY

This plier is good on the lock ring clips:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44900-Lock-Ring-Plier/dp/B0009OR974

Black grease = outboard boot
Yellow Grease = inner boot/tulip joint

The black grease is very messy.... latex gloves are advised and wear old clothes.

Components: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/comp.pdf
Removal: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/remo.pdf
Disassembly: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/disa.pdf
Reassembly: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sa/fds/reas.pdf
The thing about that is that he won't even have to take the tulip end apart as long as it's in good shape. You just put that boot on first and slide it on from the other end. And I think that's actually the inner joint. The rest of the joints basically fall apart without the boots to hold them together.
 
#8 ·
Whats a fair price for this repair from a ordinary garage machanic?
A fair price will depend on where you live as labor rates vary.

Are you going to deliver the axles to a cv shop/mechanic? They can knock them in about an hour labor for both, most likely.

If you are going to have a mechanic pull them and replace the boots, you will find it will likely be chaeper to buy remanned axles and replace the whole unit.
 
#6 ·
Can air ain't gonna do shit. You need to open it up, wipe all the gunk out real good with a rag down to the bare metal. Get all the junk out that crept in there and start fresh with the new boot kit. You don't have to pay someone if you have basic mechanic knowlrdge
 
#7 ·
You are correct. The can air is not for cleaning, but was suggested as a drying agent for the outboard joint after cleaning. After wiping down rags and cleaning with brake cleaner, the can air can blow out a few of the smaller bits. It works in a pinch if a compressor is not available.
 
#12 ·
Just did this last night. Dont cut the boot loose just take the big clamp off. Loosen the torsion bar in the back to let the upper a-arm loose enough to let the upper ball joint bolt's through the holes then just pop the 3 bearings out of the inner housing. Dont have to loosen it from the diff. I never took the outer part at the hub loose. Use snap ring pliers to take the triple bearing assembly off the shaft then slide the small end of the boot up and a vast majority of the old grease will come with it. Clean everything up nicely and the reverse the procedure. Took me about 2 hours total to change it out. And that was with a couple if breaks and a bottle of Makers Mark.:beer:

Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2
 
#13 ·
Blackoctober2002...If you need help PM me.
 
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