Spray in bed liners

[ddriggers2]

Anyone with a spray in ever get their truck painted after the fact? I think I want to get my truck painted soon, but I want a bed liner even sooner. How hard is it for the body shop to paint after a spray in is done...particularly Over-the-rails?

Danny

[VolcomTacoma]

I'm guessing they would just have to mask it off where it's sprayed over the rails. Don't see any other way of doing it. Maybe you can go over the rails after you paint it if you need the bedliner right now. My friend had to have his bedside replaced/repaired and had Rhino over the rails. They resprayed the over the rail section if not all of the liner for it to match up.

[EDM]

You should just wait to get the truck painted first then do the bedliner.

[Exilestate]

are you actually going to have the spray in liner over the bed and onto the rear quarter panels? It's your truck but it just doesn't look good.

[grillmasterp]

I've had a rear quarter panel replaced after line-x was done
For best results - you are best off painting first

maybe line-X under the rails- that way you can finish off the OTR line-X after you repaint.

[SilverTaco]

My SpeedLiner is over the rail and on the very top 1/4 inch of my quarter panel and it is the shiznit. No worry about stuff scratching it. I have recieved many good complimnets about mine.

[Toyota4x4man]

Hey can you send me any pics of your liner. Thanks
aaronclark1861@msn.com

[78fj40]

Anyone with a spray in ever get their truck painted after the fact? I think I want to get my truck painted soon, but I want a bed liner even sooner. How hard is it for the body shop to paint after a spray in is done...particularly Over-the-rails?

Danny


Just a thought, but wouldn't painting the truck be cheaper if they didn't have to paint the bed of the truck. Besides, they take sandpaper to whereever the bedliner is going into. This is so the bedliner will stick to the truck. if the bodyshop is any good, they should be able to mask the bedliner pretty good, and in the long run you may save some money.


Just a thought.

Norman

[BK005]

Just a thought, but wouldn't painting the truck be cheaper if they didn't have to paint the bed of the truck. Besides, they take sandpaper to whereever the bedliner is going into. This is so the bedliner will stick to the truck. if the bodyshop is any good, they should be able to mask the bedliner pretty good, and in the long run you may save some money.


Just a thought.

Norman


That sounds like good advise, I wouldnt want to throw bedliner over new paint anyways. It takes a long time for your paint to fully cure, and it suck it if and your liner pulled off.

[78fj40]

That sounds like good advise, I wouldnt want to throw bedliner over new paint anyways. It takes a long time for your paint to fully cure, and it suck it if and your liner pulled off.


No problem. I love my bedliner. If I could make a suggestion, I would have them also spray below the rear window. If you look, there is a panel that makes up the back of the truck cab, they can mask that off and spray just that area. If I had that done then I would never had to put up with the scratches and scrapes made by some of the loads I carry and the Tonneau cover rubbing when rolled up. I even think that they can tint the bedliner now as well.......


Later

[ShowStop]

Anyone with a spray in ever get their truck painted after the fact? I think I want to get my truck painted soon, but I want a bed liner even sooner. How hard is it for the body shop to paint after a spray in is done...particularly Over-the-rails?

Danny
I had some body work done and they removed the bedliner, fixed and painted the body, then re-applied the bedliner.

[SilverTaco]

Ill try to get some pics over the next few days.

[obex26]

What about just telling the paint shop to not paint the bed when they repaint the truck and that you are not concerned with the overspay in the bed since you plan on getting a spray in bed liner after the truck is repainted.

[lifetrddeath]

Most spray in places can color match a bedliner to the rest of the truck. I know my line-x guy can match the stuff to any color.

[BLT2RCKTRD]

Since everyone on here is already posting about bedliners, I guess I will ask which one everyone thinks is best. I have seen a lot of rhino liners over the rail and I really like those but they seem to fade pretty bad, is there something to correct that or is there a bedliner out there that doesn't fade?

[Squeaky96]

why not get the paint job and the bedliner all at once the body shop will probably give you a deal if you do it like that. what i did. i like the line-x the best. rhino next. i have a rhino knock off that has held up good for me. and i have a dog box in mine the most of the year and it slides around in there but i also had the body shop put a full size truck kit in a toyota so the floor is a little thicker than the rest.

[RENEGADE76254]

this is slightly off topic, but as anybody had any luck with sumthin like a walmart roll-on for a under the rail application??
RENEGADE76254

[gumbo]

this is slightly off topic, but as anybody had any luck with sumthin like a walmart roll-on for a under the rail application??
RENEGADE76254


I used Herculiner for my bed, I just followed the instructions and went to it. It has only been on for about 4 months but it seems to hold up well I went over the rail. It is messy so plan on taking your time and do very thin coats to build it up.

[RENEGADE76254]

i currently have a bed liner in it. it has caused alota rubing on the bottom of the bed floor, should that be sanded or primmered or anything or just clean it and apply??

[gumbo]

If you are doing the roll in liner yourself yes it needs to be scuffed very well or lightly sanded. Go to a parts store and look at the can of liner it tells you exactly what to do.

[Cruzin90]

Here's a bunch of info for you:

LINE-X and Rhino differ quite a bit. The biggest difference is that LINE-X contains polyurea and Rhino does not. Polyurea enhances the bedliner’s properties: 1. LINE-X's temperature tolerance is 250 degrees and Rhino's is 175. As the temperature of the bed approaches the temp tolerance, it loses its strength. 2. Polyurea keeps moisture out of the solution thus making a more dense and solid liner. Less moisture also means better adhesion. 3. Polyurea also makes for a tougher liner. The tear strength of LINE-X is 304 pounds per linear inch (pli). Rhino is 145 pli. 4. Polyurea sets up very fast, that's one reason why LINE-X goes on with heat and high pressure. LINE-X dries in about 4 seconds, so you get an even application throughout the bed. Rhino takes a minute or so to even gel, an hour or so to dry. Before it gels, gravity can pull the liner from the top ridges in to the low valleys. Rhino’s Tuff Stuff goes on cold/low pressure and thus has that “cottage cheese” or “rain on the windshield” look. LINE-X’s high heat/high pressure system gives it a very nice finished and more consistently applied texture, it’s sort of like an orange peel. The dealer can vary the texture from smooth to very rough. 5. Polyurea makes the liner more chemical resistant, especially to organic oils and solvents.

LINE-X offers a NATIONWIDE lifetime warranty. Rhino’s warranty is only with the dealer that sprayed it.

Here is a bit of history: First on the scene were epoxy based products. They were not very durable, they cracked, peeled, etc. Then, ONE-part polyurethane products came along (also referred to as “solvent based”). One-part means that the polyurethane is suspended in a solvent. A catalyst is added which starts a chemical reaction that removes the solvent so that you have just polyurethane left. The catalyst can be a liquid chemical or even just air. One-part polys were a significant improvement over epoxy based products. Examples of today’s one-part polyurethanes include Herculiner, Duplicolor, Durabak, Superliner, and Speedliner. The newest technology is TWO-part polyurethanes. Two-part means that a resin (usually a polyol resin) is mixed with isocyanate (a hardener) which renders the polyurethane. Two-part polyurethanes are harder and much more durable than one-part polyurethanes. Two-part polys are used on today’s boats, airplanes, etc. Examples of today’s products that have two-part polyurethanes include LINE-X and Rhino.

Hope that helps! :)

[grumpy]

Since everyone on here is already posting about bedliners, I guess I will ask which one everyone thinks is best. I have seen a lot of rhino liners over the rail and I really like those but they seem to fade pretty bad, is there something to correct that or is there a bedliner out there that doesn't fade?

like said line-x now offers nation wide warrenty. the place that orginally sprayed in my lne-x went out of business. Another line-x dealer fixed it under warrenty even though they didn't do it orginally. And it was No hassle t oget done. I called line-x and told them to 1st place closed and what should I do. They sent me to the place that fixed it.

[xcmountain80]

Yes get the truck painted first then do the bedliner just for the fact, that no matter how many scratches you obtain betwwen now and the time your spray in goes in , no onewill ever know. Or do you have a special circumstance?

Aaron

[absolut taco]

When I wanted my Tacoma's bed sprayed, the dealer offered to do it for their cost ($300 over the rail). After calling Rhino and Line-X and getting quoted almost $450 I decided to go with the dealer offer. It's called TurboLiner, which isn't really well known. I really like it. Nothing slides around and it has a lifetime warranty against peeling and chipping (non-transferrable). I haven't really put anything challenging on the bed so far, but if it turns out to be crap, I'll be sure to spread the word.

[Cruzin90]

Basically, there are three types of bedliners, 100% polyurethane (such as Rhino), 100% polyurea (such as Turboliner), and a mix of polyurethane and polyurea (such as LINE-X). Both polyurethane and polyurea have desirable properties. Thus, those brands that are a mix tend to be the better bedliners. For example, polyurethane has twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurea raises the temperature tolerance and tear strength.

I rank bedliners in the following order (1 being best):
1. Mix of polyurea and polyurethane
2. 100% polyurethane (two-part, not solvent based)
3. 100% polyurea

FYI: LINE-X is the only brand that offers a nationwide lifetime warranty. Other brands may offer a lifetime warranty but it's only with the dealer that sprayed it, and if he goes out of business, you lose your warranty.

[nastynate]

Basically, there are three types of bedliners, 100% polyurethane (such as Rhino), 100% polyurea (such as Turboliner), and a mix of polyurethane and polyurea (such as LINE-X). Both polyurethane and polyurea have desirable properties. Thus, those brands that are a mix tend to be the better bedliners. For example, polyurethane has twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurea raises the temperature tolerance and tear strength.

I rank bedliners in the following order (1 being best):
1. Mix of polyurea and polyurethane
2. 100% polyurethane (two-part, not solvent based)
3. 100% polyurea

FYI: LINE-X is the only brand that offers a nationwide lifetime warranty. Other brands may offer a lifetime warranty but it's only with the dealer that sprayed it, and if he goes out of business, you lose your warranty.

good info! thanks!

[Maddog096]

Basically, there are three types of bedliners, 100% polyurethane (such as Rhino), 100% polyurea (such as Turboliner), and a mix of polyurethane and polyurea (such as LINE-X). Both polyurethane and polyurea have desirable properties. Thus, those brands that are a mix tend to be the better bedliners. For example, polyurethane has twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurea raises the temperature tolerance and tear strength.

I rank bedliners in the following order (1 being best):
1. Mix of polyurea and polyurethane
2. 100% polyurethane (two-part, not solvent based)
3. 100% polyurea

FYI: LINE-X is the only brand that offers a nationwide lifetime warranty. Other brands may offer a lifetime warranty but it's only with the dealer that sprayed it, and if he goes out of business, you lose your warranty.



So what your saying is that LINE-X is the best. Right? Thats good to know because I am about to have one sprayed on in the next month or so.

[mandymh]

Why not just get bed rails, the black plastic ones, you can take them off when you send it in for paint, then put them back on again. Personally, I like the way they look.

[mandymh]

If you are doing the roll in liner yourself yes it needs to be scuffed very well or lightly sanded. Go to a parts store and look at the can of liner it tells you exactly what to do.

Have you seen this stuff?? I have seen it in a few beds, and it didn't look good in any of them.

It looked like it was done at home (a look I try to avoid).

[txtaco1]

That's some good info to know... Probably more than some of the guys spraying it in could tell you! Thanks for the info. Just curious are you with Line-X or just a super satisfied customer? Either way it's good information to have if your thinking of getting a spray in bed liner.

Thanks,

Jason

[calamaridog]

Since everyone on here is already posting about bedliners, I guess I will ask which one everyone thinks is best. I have seen a lot of rhino liners over the rail and I really like those but they seem to fade pretty bad, is there something to correct that or is there a bedliner out there that doesn't fade?


Rhino liner and others will fade. Rhino sells a product which you can apply to return the black to the product.

LINE X is absolutely the best product for fade resistance. Hands down. My Rhino Liner is ok but I prefer my brothers LINE X.

[Cruzin90]

Yep, I'm a LINE-X dealer, but I'm not here to spam you. As you can see from my prior posts, I'm providing you with factual information, you can make up your own minds.

Rhino has a product called Rhinoshine that you can put on the liner to partially restore the black. But, it flakes off the liner and is a PITA to put on. It's not such a good option. Your better off applying some Just Once (www.justonce.com)

[DesertTRD]

Yep, I'm a LINE-X dealer, but I'm not here to spam you. As you can see from my prior posts, I'm providing you with factual information, you can make up your own minds.

Rhino has a product called Rhinoshine that you can put on the liner to partially restore the black. But, it flakes off the liner and is a PITA to put on. It's not such a good option. Your better off applying some Just Once (www.justonce.com)
its funny you mention all this, we had line-x in one of our trucks and it was the worst ive ever dealt with,

1. it chipped if you dropped a hammer in the bed (and that was light duty compaired to what we did to this truck)
2. the dealer who sprayed it wouldent touch it, they claimed we abused it and said they wont cover usage. Hmm what the hell is that about?

anyway we have since then only used Rhino in the trucks and while it still can be rubbed off or chip, atleast they cover it.

Anyway.

[Cruzin90]

Actually, that sounds a little fishy. LINE-X has a nationwide lifetime warranty, the dealer should have fixed it. LINE-X has a 129 pound higher tear strength than Rhino's Tuff Stuff. I've never seen it chip the way you describe it. Perhaps you thought it was LINE-X?

[DesertTRD]

Actually, that sounds a little fishy. LINE-X has a nationwide lifetime warranty, the dealer should have fixed it. LINE-X has a 129 pound higher tear strength than Rhino's Tuff Stuff. I've never seen it chip the way you describe it. Perhaps you thought it was LINE-X?
Nothing fishy about it, if i still had that truck sitting here i would snap a picture of the bed, it was for sure linex, 1 reason i know is it had the dumbass logo that we requested NOT to be put on, on it, they said for warrenty reasons its gotta be on there.

2. it was a line-x dealer.

Linex chips just like any other liner.

[SandyUT]

Do most of you who have a spray on liner have it over the rail? I would love to see a pic or two of this.

Also, I bought my Tacoma used and the bed has some chips, minor dents, and it had a tool box in the front - its mounting left some dents in the bottom of the side rail (not too big, prolly noticable more to the owner than a passer by). I have no skills when it comes to body or sheet metal. Should I just have all this sprayed over by LineX?

Thanks