What kind of bolts should I buy?

[vanguard]

I'm sorry to hit you guys with three basic questions in two days. Again, I did a search but I didn't find my answer.

I'm getting close to actually bolting my sliders on and I need to buy the bolts. I was thinking I'd get self tapping bolts for the bottom and through bolts for the sides. The idea is that the self tappers will help to hold them in place while I put the other bolts through.

1) Is that a good idea?
2) Do I want galvanized? Nickle plated?
3) Does HD, Lowes, Ace Hardware sell what I need?
4) Are there markings on the bolts that I should be looking for?

Thanks in advance.

[Mike]

I'm sorry to hit you guys with three basic questions in two days. Again, I did a search but I didn't find my answer.

I'm getting close to actually bolting my sliders on and I need to buy the bolts. I was thinking I'd get self tapping bolts for the bottom and through bolts for the sides. The idea is that the self tappers will help to hold them in place while I put the other bolts through.

1) Is that a good idea?
2) Do I want galvanized? Nickle plated?
3) Does HD, Lowes, Ace Hardware sell what I need?
4) Are there markings on the bolts that I should be looking for?

Thanks in advance.

I dunno if it's the right thing to do, but I use grade 8 bolts for everything. If you have an Orchard Supply Hardware near by you should be able to find just about everything you need.

Later,
....Mike

[zszac111]

maybe use the self tappining ones to get it held up then replace them with bolts that go all the way through. x2 on the grade 8's. ive been up to RTP once to take my cisco CCIE lab, any chance you work for them?

[WallyP226]

If your going to use self tappers, maybe and just maybe you could use them on the bottom to hold your sliders up while you bolt them on but don't count on those self tappers to stay put once you really start to use your sliders. First off you only have an 1/8 of thread on the frame to tap, secondly once you start flexing your sliders those self tappers have a tendency to work their way out because of where they are and the chosen application.


The design of your bracket and the load you expect to put on each bolt should determine the size and strength of the bolts you will need.
The bolts that actually hold your slider onto your frame need be graded, if you use anything smaller than 1/2 inch bolts, you really need to consider grade 8 hardware, if your bolts are going to be over 1/2 a half inch you could probably get away with grade 5. I went on the big side and went with 5/8 inch grade 5 hardware. Another consideration might be stainless steel bolts a little pricey, but very tough. Don't skimp on mild steel bolts unless your planning to go really big.

[NorcalPR]

You can still throw a nut behind the threaded bolts if needbe. I dont really see the reaon to have them anyways. Just drill holes, and push the bolts through...

Galvanized bolts may not be the hot ticket. The threads get messed up from the galvainizing process. You could probably get away with zinc.

Any hardware store should have bolts. Beware on HD or lowes. Usually thier bolts are in places they shouldn't be! Check each bolt, nut and washer before you leave. I don't know about over there, but over here you spend more time looking for the bolt than actually finding the one that you need. Thats why I rather go to Ace or true value, hey they're closer too!

Basically the marking on a grade 8 bolt has I believe 8 lines on the head of the bolt...

-Phill

[Wgasa84]

Basically the marking on a grade 8 bolt has I believe 8 lines on the head of the bolt...

-Phill

Phill, just passing the info along, loved your swap.
To determine the grade of a bolt:Take the number of lines on the head and add two... 6 lines + 2=grade 8 bolt.
http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bolt_identification.htm
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp
http://www.unified-eng.com/scitech/bolt/boltmarks.html
http://www.rigging.net/Bolts.html

"Nuts are also labeled according to their tensile strength. The English system marks one side of the nut with dots, while the metric system uses numbers. Nuts must be matched with the correct grade of bolt, or the pair will not provide the intended "connection." If a grade 5 nut is used with a grade 8 bolt, the pair will only have a grade 5 level of strength. http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/nutsnbolts.htm "


ok this is just interesting/cool. http://www.hghouston.com/x/13.html

[vanguard]

Thank you everybody.

[WallyP226]

Thank you everybody.

I don't know if you have any help on this project or not, if you don't have a jig for making your sliders, you will get it right the first time if you put your brackets on the truck first, THEN fit your sliders to the brackets and tack weld it togather. Once your happy with how it looks then weld them up and do it the same way on each side. This tip will save you time and effort by reducing the amount of time spent cutting welds and redoing your work because they don't look the same on each side.

Wally

[NorcalPR]

Phill, just passing the info along, loved your swap.
To determine the grade of a bolt:Take the number of lines on the head and add two... 6 lines + 2=grade 8 bolt.
http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bolt_identification.htm
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp
http://www.unified-eng.com/scitech/bolt/boltmarks.html
http://www.rigging.net/Bolts.html

"Nuts are also labeled according to their tensile strength. The English system marks one side of the nut with dots, while the metric system uses numbers. Nuts must be matched with the correct grade of bolt, or the pair will not provide the intended "connection." If a grade 5 nut is used with a grade 8 bolt, the pair will only have a grade 5 level of strength. http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/nutsnbolts.htm "


ok this is just interesting/cool. http://www.hghouston.com/x/13.html

Ah, thanks for correcting me. I thought it was either that or 8 lines, couldn't quite remember which.

[NorcalPR]

Oh, it also just occured to me about the "swap". Are you referring to the Dcab swap? That was NorCalVP. Close names! Steve is a very cool guy and I agree with you.