How heavy is your back bumper and is it stroung enough for you?

[jamarquardt22]

Im building my own w/a integrated hitch,(a real class3) and I estimate it will weigh about 140lbs!! It will be a hybrid chanel and pipe bumper w/bedside protection.

[03trdblack]

Im building my own w/a integrated hitch,(a real class3) and I estimate it will weigh about 140lbs!! It will be a hybrid chanel and pipe bumper w/bedside protection.


140 LBS.....Damn that's heavy :eek:

[SAR_Squid79]

Yeah - 140 is HEAVY! I think DeMello's rear hybrid bumper only weighs about 80 lbs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[swank501]

140 lbs?!?! Just be careful when you back that ass up

[Deserttaco]

I think mine weighs about 50 lbs, maybe less... I've integrated a tow hitch, and bed protection, It'll support the whole weight of the truck without moving at all.

[rokbrkr]

Most of our rear bumpers wiegh in at about 75-90 pounds depending on the design, and that's with 3/8"-1/2" thick mounting plates. :) These are plenty strong!!!
You mentioned channel and pipe hybrid, just so you know pipe is alot heavier than tubing, and not nessecarily stronger just becuase it's thicker,...... by the time you buy thick enough channel to be strong enough, you could have went with rectangular tubing and gotten better strength and less wieght, just a couple wieght saving tips :D :2cents:

[jamarquardt22]

I guess i should of menchioned that its 6"channel most of you guys seem to use like 4" that would make a big diff. pipe and channel are free for me. so i gotta go that way.

Norcalvp i doubt its under 50 just the hitch feels like it weighs about 20-30. not calling it bs but its hard to guess the weight of these things.

Andy

[WallyP226]

Go exotic, use 4130 or SS, cut the weight and still have the strength. :D

[jamarquardt22]

and also be 10X the price since i cant get that as scrap. so far ive got $70 into this thing. 40 is cause we dont have a pipe bender to use.

[StemsCornfedTaco]

The bumper I made for my truck is about 60-70 pounds, 4" x 2" .25 wall rectangle tubing with capped ends, 1/2" thick brackets and 1" thick D-Shackle mounts.

Heres the Thread:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14058

[jamarquardt22]

looks nice, buts not what im going for. my 6"X8.2lb channel and 3"X4.1lb channel bumber and brackets will be about 56lbs then add pipe for looks and side protection and a class 3 welded into the bumper. at first look I think ill use as much pipe as I used for one of my sliders. that weighed in at 60lbs each.

Turst me Im looking for ways to cut the weight but Ill have to start building it before i can cut it apart.

[04RedLobster]

1000....grams...what rear bumpers?...ohhh those plastic ones from the factory..lol
i need to get some bumpers made later :D

[FreebirdAZ]

Im building my own w/a integrated hitch,(a real class3) and I estimate it will weigh about 140lbs!! It will be a hybrid chanel and pipe bumper w/bedside protection.
140lbs might be a bit of an extreme estimate. Mine weighs in at 62lbs with the d-rings mounted. Must be some real heavy stuff your making that out of.

[ARB1977]

140 lbs?!?! Just be careful when you back that ass up
Junk in the trunk for sure.

[STOMPER]

Norcalvp i doubt its under 50 just the hitch feels like it weighs about 20-30. not calling it bs but its hard to guess the weight of these things.

Andy

Never ever call BS!!
Not all hitches are what you think. This is what I got. The hitch tube only weighs 4lbs.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/330680_lg.jpg

http://www.norcalttora.com/~brian/Taco/Paragon/Roach%20Day%202/slides/P1010068.JPG

[Deserttaco]

I guess i should of menchioned that its 6"channel most of you guys seem to use like 4" that would make a big diff. pipe and channel are free for me. so i gotta go that way.

Norcalvp i doubt its under 50 just the hitch feels like it weighs about 20-30. not calling it bs but its hard to guess the weight of these things.

Andy

Andy, I actually have no idea what it weighs, but it's built from about 15 feet of 1.5 .120 wall steel tubing. And the reciever is only about 12 inches of 2.5" square tubing. There isn't too much to it, it's a pretty simple design, but since it's welded to the frame, i have no way of weighing it.

1.5 .120 wall tubing weighs about 1.7lbs per foot. So say i used 20 feet. that's 35 lbs. Then just the reciever tubing and the frame mounts. I'd guess it's pretty darn close to 50lbs.

[cb77DEMELLO]

lets not forget also these rear frames are pretty thin and will bend! so if you build a super stout bumper and only attach it where the factory one mounts chances are you will bend your frame! Spread the mounting points out and try to use thin metal where ever you can!

Our rear wrap around weigh around 65-85 or about as much as a stock bumper and trailer hitch. When we do custom tire carriers it is very important to plate the frame in the wheel well! That much weight and that much leverage over time will bend or tear your frame!

Ask David Hale about that..lol

[jamarquardt22]

lets not forget also these rear frames are pretty thin and will bend! so if you build a super stout bumper and only attach it where the factory one mounts chances are you will bend your frame! Spread the mounting points out and try to use thin metal where ever you can!

Our rear wrap around weigh around 65-85 or about as much as a stock bumper and trailer hitch. When we do custom tire carriers it is very important to plate the frame in the wheel well! That much weight and that much leverage over time will bend or tear your frame!

Ask David Hale about that..lol

I had concidered that. I should just follow the kiss method but im too damn fussy.

[DrVic@BallisticFab]

Overkill!...

[ZR2Steve]

......the hitch feels like it weighs about 20-30. .....but its hard to guess the weight of these things.


A handy tool to have around the shop is an old bathroom scale (or borrow from the mom or wife)

I picked up a cheap-o little hand scale from Harbor Freight when it was on-sale (like every other weeks ad). It rated at something like 40lbs.

Neither of these are spot-on accurate but within a few lbs, and much better than the armstrong scale.

[jamarquardt22]

hitch is down to 22lbs after a little :saw: so my guess of 30 may of been a little high but not by much.

Andy

[TBob]

Mine weighs in at 88lbs - and works awesome. I've hauled an old impala on my 16 flatbed with a 15" drop hitch and had no problems. 140 lbs sounds extreem.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2120430441&=guest


Im building my own w/a integrated hitch,(a real class3) and I estimate it will weigh about 140lbs!! It will be a hybrid chanel and pipe bumper w/bedside protection.

[cb77DEMELLO]

I had concidered that. I should just follow the kiss method but im too damn fussy.

It usally is better to keep it simple but every once in a while we get a customer who wants a tire carrier, amo can holder and gas can. the weight of this stuff isn't so bad as but where it is located!

David hale was one of the first I know of with a set up like this on his tacoma. His frame cracked off road one day.

[equin]

It usally is better to keep it simple but every once in a while we get a customer who wants a tire carrier, amo can holder and gas can. the weight of this stuff isn't so bad as but where it is located!

David hale was one of the first I know of with a set up like this on his tacoma. His frame cracked off road one day.

I'm glad you brought up the David Hale bent frame incident. It still irks me that Toyota built these truck frames so thin and weak that they would bend, but that's all water under the bridge. Because of that, though, I think the prerunner tubular style rear bumpers are best. They're lighter, but still strong. I have an old Stout Equipment bumper - superbly made, high quality welds and workmanship, super strong and calling it "stout" is an understatement. But it's very heavy - maybe 100-120 lbs? I'm leery about keeping it on back there for fear the frame will eventually bend. I may eventually sell it and build myself a lighter, prerunner style tubular bumper to keep the weight down.

[cb77DEMELLO]

I'm glad you brought up the David Hale bent frame incident. It still irks me that Toyota built these truck frames so thin and weak that they would bend, but that's all water under the bridge. Because of that, though, I think the prerunner tubular style rear bumpers are best. They're lighter, but still strong. I have an old Stout Equipment bumper - superbly made, high quality welds and workmanship, super strong and calling it "stout" is an understatement. But it's very heavy - maybe 100-120 lbs? I'm leery about keeping it on back there for fear the frame will eventually bend. I may eventually sell it and build myself a lighter, prerunner style tubular bumper to keep the weight down.

I know someone else who got his stout bumper when david got his, he still runs it but sometimes takes the gate off to help with the weight.

Just plating the outside of the frame you would be surprized how much stiffer the frame becomes! and if you take it step further spend a weekend platting the inside of the frame you will have a clean look too!

[jamarquardt22]

well Im now looking at 100-115 lbs. after reading this http://www.tankota.net/Misc/Bentframe/framebent.htm and http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/frame.html i think ill take Demellos advice and reinforce the frame. Id look at there kit if I couldnt make it all for free. BTW stock is about 50lbs

[01blkext]

mine is strong as shit, not sure how much it weighs, heavy but not too heavy, its something I got michael at rockdust to do for me, lots of supports underneath you can't really tell from the pic
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jla0317/e3c87d29.jpg

[equin]

I know someone else who got his stout bumper when david got his, he still runs it but sometimes takes the gate off to help with the weight.

Just plating the outside of the frame you would be surprized how much stiffer the frame becomes! and if you take it step further spend a weekend platting the inside of the frame you will have a clean look too!

Hmm. I hadn't thought about removing the tailgate to save on weight. Thanks for the idea!

I've seen some long plates added on the outside of the frame to strengthen it. They seem like a really good idea. I was wondering, though, if welding those long plates like that might actually weaken the frame with all the heat generated from the weld? If so, would a shorter, single plate be better? Or maybe it might weaken it just a little, but the strength added by the plates more than overcomes the small amount of weakening? And would it be better to box in the rear part of the frame by welding on a template along the edges of the inside frame rail? I'm no metallurgist, weldor or fabricator, so I don't really know, but thought I'd take advantage of asking you, a pro fabricator, if you don't mind me asking.

[jamarquardt22]

Im no expert either, thats why im asking questions. but seems to me like boxing in the frame would be strong as hell. but it might create access problems for bolts and such. plus the frame is not a normal shape. it tappers and bends. as for welding on plates. I would sugest skipping around when welding to keep any part from getting hot enough to bend in funny ways. maybe a inch or 2 at a time.

01blkext bumper looks solid and i like that alot. but it seems like no one ever makes one that goes under the sides of the bed like sliders do. its always 2 tubes along the side like that.

Andy

[equin]

I would guess that for bolt access you could always cut an opening. As for the bends and tapering, you can always cut up cardboard pieces as templates, then take the templates to a steel supply or metal shop and have them cut the plates for you. I haven't looked at the inside frame rail lately so I don't remember what it looks like, but if there are any fuel and brake lines in the way, then my biggest concern would be welding near them. But I've seen pics of folks on here who've boxed in the rest of their frame, so my guess is that they either moved the lines out of the way or they're not in the way. And yeah, I agree, you should weld for about an inch, stop, go to the other side and weld an inch, then go back and forth so you don't heat up the metal too much and weaken the HAZ area.

[zszac111]

monkey glue and pvc will take you a long way :flipoff3: but 140lbs for a rear bumper overkill.

[DesertTRD]

my rear bumper consists of 5 long tubes and 3 kickers and its been hit about 50 times by trucks doing really stupid stuff... even taken a hard hit on the freeway from another prerunner...



http://www.securitybuilders.com/schafer/images/2.jpg

[nilson]

Wouldn't say some 4x2 steel tubing welded inside the rear frame rails work to effectively box it?

[DesertTRD]

Wouldn't say some 4x2 steel tubing welded inside the rear frame rails work to effectively box it?
yes it would, i have that as the mount

[Willman]

Hmm. I hadn't thought about removing the tailgate to save on weight. Thanks for the idea!

I've seen some long plates added on the outside of the frame to strengthen it. They seem like a really good idea. I was wondering, though, if welding those long plates like that might actually weaken the frame with all the heat generated from the weld? If so, would a shorter, single plate be better? Or maybe it might weaken it just a little, but the strength added by the plates more than overcomes the small amount of weakening? And would it be better to box in the rear part of the frame by welding on a template along the edges of the inside frame rail? I'm no metallurgist, weldor or fabricator, so I don't really know, but thought I'd take advantage of asking you, a pro fabricator, if you don't mind me asking.

The frame you have was welded up by toyota! Adding a plate by welding it on will not make it weaker!!!!!!! It will make it stronger if done right!! I will be beefing up my rear frame during Christmas break! I'm planning on adding a rear bumper with a tire carrier. Here is a good site that will help you out!

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/frame.html

Good Luck!

[equin]

The frame you have was welded up by toyota! Adding a plate by welding it on will not make it weaker!!!!!!! It will make it stronger if done right!! I will be beefing up my rear frame during Christmas break! I'm planning on adding a rear bumper with a tire carrier. Here is a good site that will help you out!

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/frame.html

Good Luck!

Thanks for the link. I had seen that site before - very informative - and it is, in fact, where I saw a pic of the outside plating.

And yes, you're right, the Tacoma frame was welded. If I remember correctly, it's either two c-channels welded together, or a plate boxing in the c-channel. But it's been awhile since I looked at the frame, so I don't really remember and my memory could very well be completely wrong about that. Anyway, just because it was welded by the frame manufacturer does not mean that welding on it some more will not affect its structural integrity. I'm no welding expert, nor am I a fabricator, metallurgist or mechanical engineer. I learned how to weld after taking a few semesters of stick and MIG at the local community college. But I still want to learn some more. However, I did learn one of the basic principles of welding - it creates a heat affected zone (HAZ) which can be weaker than the weld itself and can adversely affect the former molecular state of the steel surrounding the weld. I also know that the Tacoma frame is very thin. If you try to stick weld it, and you're not careful you'll blow a hole right through it, defeating the purpose of what you were trying to do in the first place - strengthen it or at least "brace" it. I know - I've blown through holes on scrap steel thicker than the Tacoma's frame while practicing in welding class!

Like I said earlier, the helpful link you posted includes a pic of the plating I remember seeing:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bumper/frame/images/DSC02002_JPG.jpg

This is what I was referring to. I was wondering if boxing in the frame, whereby you weld a cut and formed plate to fit along the open, inside edge of the frame has less of an HAZ weakening effect than the plate pictured above. Now, I'm not saying that the plate welded along the outside edge of the frame like in the pic above has adversely weakened the frame if welded correctly (i.e., welding in short periods, like an inch or so at a time, and letting it cool back down before welding in another inch, so as to lessen the HAZ effect). What I'm wanting to know is which form of "bracing" the frame is better - boxing it in or welding a plate along the outside of the frame? I also wanted to know which leaves a smaller HAZ, boxing it in or the big plate? My uneducated guess is that boxing in the frame leaves less of a HAZ only because it looks like there would be less surface area affected when compared to the plate above. But who knows? And even if my uneducated assumption is correct, it might not be that big of a deal anyway. Maybe the effect is too insignificant?

The reason I ask is because I would like to brace or strengthen the rear part of the my Taco's frame as well, but I'd like to know which is best. Thanks for any extra info.

Oh, and post pics of your work when you get done. Good luck with it!

[jamarquardt22]

I dont think its and isue of how big the HAZ will be. its an isue of where the HAZ will be. If you box in the frame you will create a HAZ in a area of existing frame that was of little structual importance in the first place. on the other hand it will be like 10 times the work to do. so the question is, is it worth the extra work? any takers?

Andy

[Willman]

The frame you have was welded up by toyota! Adding a plate by welding it on will not make it weaker!!!!!!! It will make it stronger if done right!! I will be beefing up my rear frame during Christmas break! I'm planning on adding a rear bumper with a tire carrier. Here is a good site that will help you out!

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/frame.html

Good Luck!

equin-
Like i said before......If it is done right..fish plating the outside is the way to go!!! You go 1" at a time..you would never get any where...Do alittle on one side then the other..back and forth..etc.You must let it cool on its own to prevent any problems in the future with cracking etc...This will keep the heat down for the most part...There is alot of wires..Hard angles to get a good weld on tring to box in the frame!!!!! Good luck doing that one!!!

"I'm no welding expert, nor am I a fabricator, metallurgist or mechanical engineer" ( This is a great quote!!!!)

I got my cardboard template finished today. Time to get the plasma cutter out..then fire up the welder!! I should go in business selling these things!!! :cool:

[equin]

Good points, Andy and Willman. Seems like it's just easier to "fish plate" the outside as long as it's welded on correctly, allowing time for it to cool in between welds. Looking forward to seeing pics of how yours turns out, Willman.

[equin]

Well, let me re-phrase that. I realize it's completely easier to "fish plate" the outside given the lack of wires and other obstacles that are usually found on the inside frame rail. I guess what I meant to say is that from what y'all are saying is that even though boxing in the frame creates a HAZ in an area of the frame that had no structural integrity, which I take to mean that the frame's structural integrity remains more intact, it still does not seem worth all the trouble to do when compared to fish plating the frame as long as it's done correctly. I think that's what y'all are trying to say, right?

[expeditionswest]

My Demello HD rear bumper with swing-out weighs 117 lbs.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/tacoma/SM_Tacoma_rear.jpg

However, the frame reinforcement was prompted because of the 22 gallon fuel tank behind the rear axle. It weighs 232 lbs. full.

Bumper: 117 lbs
Hi-lift: 50 lbs
Spare tire: 67 lbs
full fuel tank: 232 lbs.

466 lbs. behind the rear axle :eek: (I probably should not have added that up... better off not knowing :p )

[jamarquardt22]

I gotta know how the term "fish plating" came about?