Wheel studs

[Hutch98]

What is the wheel stud size or part number to use toyota lug nuts instead of having to use jeep lug nuts?

Thanks

Hutch

[dyogim]

Dorman 610264-1. I believe the "-1" is the longer studs. With out the "-1" are the shorter ones.

[Bear]

Dorman 610264-1. I believe the "-1" is the longer studs. With out the "-1" are the shorter ones.


Do you know a good source for them? I was thinking Napa may carry them but I am not sure. would that be a safe guess?

[dyogim]

Do you know a good source for them? I was thinking Napa may carry them but I am not sure. would that be a safe guess?

Kragen(partsamerica.com) has the shorter ones for $1.99 and the longer ones for $2.19.

[Bear]

Kragen(partsamerica.com) has the shorter ones for $1.99 and the longer ones for $2.19.


Thanks! now I just need to figure out if they are close to me or if it going to be strickly mail order. I am new to my area and don't recall ever seeing them around.

I am off to do my research on them now! Thanks again!

[dyogim]

Thanks! now I just need to figure out if they are close to me or if it going to be strickly mail order. I am new to my area and don't recall ever seeing them around.

I am off to do my research on them now! Thanks again!

Kragen also goes by the name of "Checker's" or "Schuck's". So look for that.

[Bear]

Kragen also goes by the name of "Checker's" or "Schuck's". So look for that.


Thanks Mike, looks like in my area though they go by the Advanced Auto parts name.

Nothing like a company making it confusing to do business with them is it? what happened to the days one company went by one name across the country?

[zszac111]

What is the wheel stud size or part number to use toyota lug nuts instead of having to use jeep lug nuts?

Thanks

Hutch

Napa should carry them also, or atleast they did for mine.

[banThis]

i know this post is old as hell, but just in case people are searching like i should have first--
just dont get "stock" dorman part numbers. advanced, o'reilly, autozone, napa, don't matter-- get the 610.264's. stock they give you 610.266 and they don't do diddly, won't even bite into the hub, hell-- barely even reach through it. the 266's they give you are for fronts of 85 and 95.5+ alike.
just a headsup.

[banThis]

and they are hard as hell to get in there too. who'd of thought .27? mm's difference in the knurl would make that much of a difference.

[yogiaz]

Yeah... they are hard to get in there. I used a die grinder with a carbide cutting head to open up the hole just a bit. Made it easier to install the studs yet still tight enough for them to bite.

Yogi

and they are hard as hell to get in there too. who'd of thought .27? mm's difference in the knurl would make that much of a difference.

[banThis]

i drilled holes in a 2x6 so i could rotate the hub around to me and keep pounding on the long side of the 2x w/out damaging the hub studs.
i know its kinda stupid to bang hammers together, but took one 3lb with a pointed end resting on the studs and pounded on it with another 3lb wearing the hell out of them.
was hard not to get frustrated and mess something up, but mission accomplished. bfh squared.

[swank501]

Can someone clarify what studs to use? I take it from this thread that you can use toyota studs. I was about to order longer jeep studs, but if I could use toyota studs it would be better.

[swank501]

bump for some much needed info

[trdtacostand04]

tlt has a writeup on longer studs from Arp which have the highest strength you can get probably, plus they are a cool looking galvanized color. only problem is the price (about 100 bucks) but at least you'll never have to buy new ones

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/news.php?id=59

[swank501]

will those work in waggy rotors? When I was at oreilly I was comparing the toyota and waggy wheel studs, the waggy had a slightly larger base diameter where it seated into the rotor. It's seating base was also longer because it has to seat into the rotor+the hub. The toyota stud was a little loose inside of the waggy rotor and its seating base didn't extend into the hub.

Bump again

[swank501]

i'll paypal someone a dollar if they tell me what studs to get and where to get them :D

[01 Tundra]

I'm using ARP #100-7715 studs on my rear axles, they are M12x1.5 and are 2.60" long. I run open style lug nuts with them due to their length.

They can be purchased through PartsMike.

[the-t-man]

anyone know the actual size to drill out the jeep hole to make a yota stud fit properly??i would rather drill it then ream it out with a diegrinder..

[yogiaz]

IF you use a drill there is a good chance you will make the hole too large, and the studs will not fit properly. They are suppose to be a press fit, thus why you want to use a die grinder and only take out a small amount of material.

Yogi

anyone know the actual size to drill out the jeep hole to make a yota stud fit properly??i would rather drill it then ream it out with a diegrinder..

[the-t-man]

IF you use a drill there is a good chance you will make the hole too large, and the studs will not fit properly. They are suppose to be a press fit, thus why you want to use a die grinder and only take out a small amount of material.

Yogi
there is that little of differance? if you actually have the right drill bit size and drill it with the drill press i would think it would be fine?? you would have more of a chance makeing it egg shaped useing a carbide bit? i will be pressing them in i just want it the actual right size for the knurls to seat right??

[shovelracer]

I used the proper dorman number above. I installed them the other day and no drilling was required. I just pressed them in with my small 10 ton press. I would not drill the hole or ream it since the fit could become loose and you may find out later that you cant get a lug nut off cause the whole stud spins. If you cant do it that way them take a trip to your local mechanic and have them press in the new studs. Otherwise pick up a press. I promise you wont regret it. I use mine all the time, studs, ball joints, seals, bearings worth every penny. A small one can be had for about 90 on ebay, or look into a 20 or 30 ton if you want to do some serious work.

[yogiaz]

IF you want to make it that complicated then go ahead. As the guy in the previous post said, its possible to just press them in. I have done it with my press before. But I still feel its easier to "touch" them up a bit with the die grinder first. IF you feel that you cant remove a little material without "egg" shaping the hole, then more power to you finding the right size drill bit.

Yogi

there is that little of differance? if you actually have the right drill bit size and drill it with the drill press i would think it would be fine?? you would have more of a chance makeing it egg shaped useing a carbide bit? i will be pressing them in i just want it the actual right size for the knurls to seat right??

[the-t-man]

IF you want to make it that complicated then go ahead. As the guy in the previous post said, its possible to just press them in. I have done it with my press before. But I still feel its easier to "touch" them up a bit with the die grinder first. IF you feel that you cant remove a little material without "egg" shaping the hole, then more power to you finding the right size drill bit.

Yogi
i guess i missed the part about not haveing to drill them out pressed them in yesterday worked perfect thanks for the heads up.. :)

[Miguel]

Bringing up an old thread. I guess the reason I'm asking this question is because I'm not entirely sure I believe the guy behind the desk at Napa Auto Parts.

I have hub assemblys (no rotors installed yet) from a 1990ish K5 Blazer D44 to mount on my 1986 Waggy D44. I talked to Mike at Parts Mike and he told me that the hubs are the same on both vehicles. So the guy at Napa says that the Dorman studs mentioned above (610264) will NOT fit in my hub assemblys because they're too wide and that the stud "splines" don't grip in the right areas.

Has anyone had this issue before? I'de really like to be able to run the same lug nuts up front as the back but by the looks of things, I'm gonna have to have them press studs up front with a different thread. I need an answer ASAP cause they're gonna start pressing everything together tomorrow at 9 am. Thanks!

~Miguel

[Mr Tacomi]

My short story: I have 610-264 Dorman studs... Waggy hubs/new rotors. I couldn't hammer the new studs into the assemblies...so I found a drill bit fractionally larger than the existing holes...studs went in with too little effort and it soon became obvious that this wasn't going to work. On to new hub assemblies: Turns out that Kragen carries new hub assemblies for about $100.. or with the rotor (and GM studs) for $50 ea...:rolleyes: took new rotor/hubs and pressed in the Dormans this afternoon at a small press at work (wasn't available the first time). The knurled part of the Dorman stud 'grips' in the same place the GM studs do: in the hub, not the rotor. The only issue I see with these studs is that the 'shank' of the stud comes through to the front of the wheel mating surface a bit, and I have steel wheels, so the wheel nuts bottom out on the stud before the wheel is tight against the wheel mating surface. Since I don't have any shortage of threads visible, I'm gonna solve this with a 1/8" or 3/16" slip-over wheel spacer. I thought about just running the GM studs, and it probably wouldn't be the worst thing to deal with... a little more annoying if you are going to run wheel locks... Good Luck, Miguel!

-Mark

[Miguel]

My short story: I have 610-264 Dorman studs... Waggy hubs/new rotors. I couldn't hammer the new studs into the assemblies...so I found a drill bit fractionally larger than the existing holes...studs went in with too little effort and it soon became obvious that this wasn't going to work. On to new hub assemblies: Turns out that Kragen carries new hub assemblies for about $100.. or with the rotor (and GM studs) for $50 ea...:rolleyes: took new rotor/hubs and pressed in the Dormans this afternoon at a small press at work (wasn't available the first time). The knurled part of the Dorman stud 'grips' in the same place the GM studs do: in the hub, not the rotor. The only issue I see with these studs is that the 'shank' of the stud comes through to the front of the wheel mating surface a bit, and I have steel wheels, so the wheel nuts bottom out on the stud before the wheel is tight against the wheel mating surface. Since I don't have any shortage of threads visible, I'm gonna solve this with a 1/8" or 3/16" slip-over wheel spacer. I thought about just running the GM studs, and it probably wouldn't be the worst thing to deal with... a little more annoying if you are going to run wheel locks... Good Luck, Miguel!

-Mark

Shit.

Well thanks for the info Mark! It looks like I'll be running different lugs up front than in the rear...which means I'll need to get 12 new lugs. Which means I'll have two new wheel locks just for the front. Which means I'll have to carry around 2 wheel keys...

sigh...

Unless someone has a solution???

~Miguel

[Big-A]

Shit.

Well thanks for the info Mark! It looks like I'll be running different lugs up front than in the rear...which means I'll need to get 12 new lugs. Which means I'll have two new wheel locks just for the front. Which means I'll have to carry around 2 wheel keys...

sigh...

Unless someone has a solution???

~Miguel

1/2" wheel spacers

Then all of your lugs will be the same thread pattern

[Miguel]

1/2" wheel spacers

Then all of your lugs will be the same thread pattern

Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel

[Big-A]

Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel

LOL......get out the ol' Capital One card :)

[Miguel]

BTW.

No one (including Parts Mike) has ever heard of Dorman 610264-1. 610264 seems to be the only part number that comes up. 610264-1 isn't even in the Dorman published parts book.

~Miguel

[dyogim]

BTW.

No one (including Parts Mike) has ever heard of Dorman 610264-1. 610264 seems to be the only part number that comes up. 610264-1 isn't even in the Dorman published parts book.

~Miguel

I used 610264-1 and purchased them from Kragen (aka PartsAmerica). Check them out online: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?MfrPartNumber=610264-1


You can purchase them online and pick up at store. I can see if any of the Kragens have them here and bring them up to the bentup shop on sunday. Heading up there in the morning to get some work done.

[Mr Tacomi]

Oh...well that definitely a way to do it. Hehe. But...that's an extra $100 I wasn't planning on spending. I'll have to figure my life out eventually I guess.

~Miguel


I said 'SLIP OVER' wheel spacers.... :D


http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gor-sp601_w.jpg

This is from Summit racing... $5.39 each.... 1/4" thick... most tire places or any performance shop should have something similar...

[Miguel]

I used 610264-1 and purchased them from Kragen (aka PartsAmerica). Check them out online: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?MfrPartNumber=610264-1


You can purchase them online and pick up at store. I can see if any of the Kragens have them here and bring them up to the bentup shop on sunday. Heading up there in the morning to get some work done.

Interesting!

Either way, these "won't work" because they're the same girth (hehe) as the 610264s, just longer (right?).

Thanks for offering, but you don't need to bring those up to AJ.

~Miguel

[Miguel]

I said 'SLIP OVER' wheel spacers.... :D


http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/gor-sp601_w.jpg

This is from Summit racing... $5.39 each.... 1/4" thick... most tire places or any performance shop should have something similar...

I think Anthony was referring to wheel spacers that include studs (Toyota thread/pitch) such as these ones:

http://www.trail-gear.com/images/whsp374-225.jpg

Either way, I'de still need to spend $100 on spacers, then find the right nuts that will be safe enough to use on the wheel spacers.

~Miguel

[Mr Tacomi]

Anthony said 1/2" wheel spacer.... the type of spacer you put a picture of only comes in a minimum of 1" width... the amount of the dorman stud 'shank' above the wheel mounting surface is just about an 1/8"... easily cured with the slip-over spacer... and there's plenty of thread for the lug nuts to hold the wheel on... nothing special required... I saw a picture on the AZ SAS board this morning....

[Mr Tacomi]

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2767189540100864020jjGrHg


That's what mine look like... the wheel will set against the hub fine, but the lugnuts won't tighten down properly... throw a couple of 1/4" spacers behind the wheel and all is good

[Miguel]

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2767189540100864020jjGrHg


That's what mine look like... the wheel will set against the hub fine, but the lugnuts won't tighten down properly... throw a couple of 1/4" spacers behind the wheel and all is good

I gotcha. I guess there's two issues at hand then. The first one is the stud treads being the same as OEM Toyotas. The second is needing a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer so that the lug nuts don't "run out of thread".

~Miguel

[Mr Tacomi]

...and the dorman stud's whole purpose in life is that it IS the same thread as the rear
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