View Full Version : Rears-16" or 18"?
lasquintanas
02-07-2006, 07:54 PM
My truck is going into the shop in about two weeks for the TC LT setup and was debating over the rear shock lengths.
I'll be running Deaver 62's, with 9" shackles over the frame. I originally had the King 16" strokes priced out but want some opinions on whether I should use the 18's instead.
What is everyone running? And i don't mind having a slightly taller bedcage either.
Cheers!
Tweeter
02-07-2006, 08:59 PM
Try dezertrangers. 16's are more popular and it depends what ratio you're running the shock at and how much travel you want/need. Are you running them straight up and down or at an angle? What's the uptravel with 9" over the frame? And what arch are you going to run?
lasquintanas
02-07-2006, 09:07 PM
Try dezertrangers. 16's are more popular and it depends what ratio you're running the shock at and how much travel you want/need. Are you running them straight up and down or at an angle? What's the uptravel with 9" over the frame? And what arch are you going to run?
I would be running the shock as straight as possible. I'm planning on strapping it at 17/18". Im getting the 10.5 arch. Not sure what the uptravel is but im trying to reduce the amount of lift i'll have in the rear. I will be running dual spares, but won't have a fuel cell for another year or so once my full cage is intact.
Tweeter
02-07-2006, 09:23 PM
Then I'd probably go 18" if you're going to stop there and not be linking it IMO. That should be PLENTY for a weekend warrior/town cruiser.
lasquintanas
02-07-2006, 09:34 PM
Then I'd probably go 18" if you're going to stop there and not be linking it IMO. That should be PLENTY for a weekend warrior/town cruiser.
I'm not ruling out a link in the far future, until i have 7-10K to drop on the rear...but the truck will be out 3-4 times a month and a link is a little overkill..agreed. But i have a town cruiser now that just can't perform offroad period.
I've been on the DR board and they seem split between the shock sizes.
YoTRacer158
02-07-2006, 10:39 PM
with the 10.5" arch you're not going to get much over 16" of travel. Roughly the 10.5" arch is good for 16", 12.5" for 18" and 14.5" for 20", but also depends on shackles length and placement. Yeah you could push it and get more travel out of them, but that will just cause them to wear out sooner.
lasquintanas
02-07-2006, 11:16 PM
with the 10.5" arch you're not going to get much over 16" of travel
Kartek lists the 10.5 as giving 18-20". But they are not clear on the shackle size, and that's probably theoretical travel, not actual travel.
Tweeter
11-20-2006, 04:08 PM
Bringing the thread back...I have the 12.5" arch with 9" shackles (through the frame) can I run 18's or 16's? Jesse, any input is appreciated :D
Factor
11-20-2006, 04:16 PM
Tweeter, you and I have the same deaver shackle setup. I have 16'' but I wouldn't mind 18'' at all.
YoTRacer158
11-20-2006, 04:25 PM
Bringing the thread back...I have the 12.5" arch with 9" shackles (through the frame) can I run 18's or 16's? Jesse, any input is appreciated :D
How much travel are you shooting for? You can run either but keep in mind the more vertical they are the better.
CanyonRacerX
11-20-2006, 06:41 PM
I'll be running Deaver 62's, with 9" shackles over the frame.
My understanding is you should run a 12" over the frame and a 9" through the frame if you want the most out of it.
And i don't mind having a slightly taller bedcage either.
If you don't care then I'd run the 18"s because it will be "cleaner" travel then to have the 16" at an angle.
Factor
11-20-2006, 07:21 PM
Speaking of travel, not to hijack or anything. But the shop never gave me a definitive answer of how much travel I pull. Quick question, how do I measure that?
YoTRacer158
11-20-2006, 07:51 PM
Measure from bump to whatever hits it with the truck at full droop.
Factor
11-20-2006, 09:05 PM
Ok, that confirmed my thoughts.
So why do people say to take apart the leaf pack but the largest one and then measure?
It's easier to compress and extend. Would you rather compress 1 spring or 12?
AllJumpStyle
11-20-2006, 09:51 PM
16" vs 18". Everyone says a 1:1 ratio is the best, so get an 18" shock if you want 18" of travel. The question I have is though, wouldn't a rising rate in the shock be more desirable, as long as you aren't "overworking" the shock? I know for my truck, I probably shouldn't need anymore than 2.5's in the back since it's pretty lightweight. It seems the spring's rising rate should coincide with the shock's rising rate for a more uniform damping force up to bump. This is just speculation, but does anyone see anything wrong with what I am saying?
I'm planning on running 16"x2.5" Foxes for 18" of travel and this might be a benefit that no one has noticed before.
YoTRacer158
11-20-2006, 10:11 PM
Yeah...but to get 18" travel out of a 16" shock you have to mount it at an angle, and the closer you get to full compression the more of an angle it's going to be at, which is going to lower the rate, not raise it. Or am I missing something?
Tweeter
11-20-2006, 10:13 PM
How much travel are you shooting for? You can run either but keep in mind the more vertical they are the better.
They'll be vertical. My bedcage will be strongly based off the 2nd Mazzulla Chevy...
YoTRacer158
11-20-2006, 10:16 PM
They'll be vertical. My bedcage will be strongly based off the 2nd Mazzulla Chevy...
If they're vertical then you're only going to get as much travel as your shocks have...so it all depends on how much youre looking to get.
Tweeter
11-20-2006, 10:17 PM
Yeah...but to get 18" travel out of a 16" shock you have to mount it at an angle, and the closer you get to full compression the more of an angle it's going to be at, which is going to lower the rate, not raise it. Or am I missing something?
16" at an angle to get 18" would be tough. The more angle the harder the shock is going to work, therefore why I thought 18" straight up and down would be best. I'm more concerned about the driveshaft overextending and whether I'd need to strap it at 16.5" or 17". I want the most travel possible without hurting anything else basically.
And to answer your question Derek, the closer to full compression the rate will raise since the angle will be pretty steep. The more angle the higher the rate the less angle lower the rate. Straight up and down would be 1:1 which is 1" of travel every inch of shaft exposed. Versus Drew's canti which is like 2:1 which is 2" of travel every inch of shaft exposed, or I have it wrong I dunno I never said I was a genius at anything :D
Tweeter
11-20-2006, 10:19 PM
If they're vertical then you're only going to get as much travel as your shocks have...so it all depends on how much youre looking to get.
As much as possible without drivetrain mods. Limit straps are cool with me I got a bunch of them. And I've decided to rock the double bypasses. I'm going to get used to tuning these bad boys get them dialed in then worry about a 3rd tube...
YoTRacer158
11-20-2006, 10:20 PM
It's easier to compress and extend. Would you rather compress 1 spring or 12?
That's more for cycling the suspension for shock placement than checking travel. Obviously the leaves are only going to compress until they hit the bumpstops...they're not going farther than that so there's no need to compress them, just measure from bump at full droop (before leaves separate). And dont forget that if you have straps they'll stretch ~10%
Tweeter
11-20-2006, 10:22 PM
It's a pretty easy way to check travel though. Get a hydro lift you can that's what I did then use a 2nd jack to cycle those bad boys. I'm pretty sure Jesse said that 18's were OK as long as you strapped them at 17" and the drivetrain won't have any problems. I was hoping he'd chime in. But yea I'd rather run my crap as straight as possible so I won't have to rebuild them all the time...
Okie...easy way to know is measure the distance from the tire at full bump from the bottom of your fender/wheel well then measure how far it is at full droop from the fender/wheel well...get it? Then take the difference
BLOWNYOTA
11-20-2006, 10:46 PM
what about carrier bearing problems? I know those start to kick it at about 16".
AllJumpStyle
11-21-2006, 12:05 AM
Yeah...but to get 18" travel out of a 16" shock you have to mount it at an angle, and the closer you get to full compression the more of an angle it's going to be at, which is going to lower the rate, not raise it. Or am I missing something?
Except your axle moves in an arc... therefore you can place the shock so you can get a rising rate out of it.
i.e. angled towards your tailgate
AllJumpStyle
11-21-2006, 12:05 AM
what about carrier bearing problems? I know those start to kick it at about 16".
Who needs a carrier bearing?
AllJumpStyle
11-21-2006, 12:11 AM
16" at an angle to get 18" would be tough. The more angle the harder the shock is going to work, therefore why I thought 18" straight up and down would be best. I'm more concerned about the driveshaft overextending and whether I'd need to strap it at 16.5" or 17". I want the most travel possible without hurting anything else basically.
Lucky for me though I already have my 62's installed, no drivetrain problems and an exact 18" of travel. Now I just have to apply shocks to the system. No need to worry about limit straps either, my springs limit the travel just fine.
YoTRacer158
11-21-2006, 12:12 AM
Except your axle moves in an arc... therefore you can place the shock so you can get a rising rate out of it.
i.e. angled towards your tailgate
Yeah I thought of that after I posted...one thing with that though, wouldnt you need longer shocks then?
prerunnerguy
11-21-2006, 06:42 AM
what about carrier bearing problems? I know those start to kick it at about 16".
I am linked with 22" of travel and have no carrier bearing problems and all my drive train is stock toyota.Just make sure you keep your slip yoke well greased.
Tweeter
11-21-2006, 04:07 PM
Thanks Nate, that's what I needed to know...now to build it *cracks knuckles*
Didn't I answer factor's question though?
Tweeter
11-22-2006, 12:06 PM
Which was? Why you only use the main leaf? Because it's easier to compress
str8xedge
11-22-2006, 05:51 PM
I can't for the life of me figure out while people are still trying to buy long travel springs with the smallest lift possible. If you want your truck to kick in the back, then by all means keep gunnin' for your sick gnar prerunner look. If you want your truck to actually work right, look for more ride height and up-travel.
Tweeter
11-30-2006, 02:05 PM
Thus why I got the 12.5" arch springs :D
AllJumpStyle
11-30-2006, 02:35 PM
or notch your frame
AllJumpStyle
11-30-2006, 02:37 PM
More uptravel is better, but so is a lower ride height, granted you aren't going too low to compromise clearance.
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.